mike hughes Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 There’s supposed to be strip added underneath to form the channels (if you want to that is) and then the triangular pieces (left in my photo) goes on top of these, I personally add these before adding the axleguards. Nothing wrong with your soldering michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 23 minutes ago, mike hughes said: There’s supposed to be strip added underneath to form the channels (if you want to that is) and then the triangular pieces (left in my photo) goes on top of these, I personally add these before adding the axleguards. Nothing wrong with your soldering michael Thanks Mike The strip I was giving a miss as I could not see how it was forming a U channel. I was leaving the triangular and diamond shaped pieces until later. Mainly because the of the number of times i was taking the buffers and couplings out and looking at it now four of them also block the brake arms. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Just had a catch up on the thread. I've a spare pair of slaters ends, and the first versions were new in my time frame... When I was at Toton, there were 3 air brake conversions in use as a store, so had the sense to get a few close ups, plus luckily, a few shots of the door gear with the doors open.. The coupling support mentioned earlier is seen, quite common when long buffers are used with the instanter coupling. You can see that there are 2 parts, the 'mouth immediately behind the RCH drawhooh, and the steel section that 'stands' it off the headstock. This is the bottom rail for the doors... Finally a shot from under one corner... I need to check out what buffers they were built with... 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Thanks Ernie, nice photos, very useful. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 Excellent pics Ernie. Well done. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 37 minutes ago, brossard said: Excellent pics Ernie. Well done. John Thanks. I was just in the right place at the right time. Plus my job is also my hobby. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 Chassis gussets on Vacuum cylinder connected to brake arm Couplers fixed in Lower door runner brackets fitted. It won't be long until Mrs Commsbloke can have the dining room table back. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 The C channel (if you can see) goes like the pic. I choose the same style trussing as haven't got a completed vanwide. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 2, 2020 Author Share Posted February 2, 2020 16 minutes ago, mike hughes said: The C channel (if you can see) goes like the pic. I choose the same style trussing as haven't got a completed vanwide. .... Thanks Mike, will definitely give it a go next time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Will definitely follow your progress, I bought the same kit last week and it is my first Slaters kit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 1 hour ago, 37114 said: Will definitely follow your progress, I bought the same kit last week and it is my first Slaters kit Welcome aboard, at my rate of progress you may finish before me. My latest news is that I thought the 40 thou end to end airpipes looked a little thin so I have ordered some 1.5mm brass rod. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted February 3, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, commsbloke said: My latest news is that I thought the 40 thou end to end airpipes looked a little thin so I have ordered some 1.5mm brass rod. Easier and cheaper to just not take photos on a mirror:) Edited February 3, 2020 by Hal Nail 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 5 hours ago, commsbloke said: Welcome aboard, at my rate of progress you may finish before me. My latest news is that I thought the 40 thou end to end airpipes looked a little thin so I have ordered some 1.5mm brass rod. I always use brass tube or rod to represent vacuum pipes: Same diameter as the Slater's cast pipe ends. John 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 OK, I know that I have work to do but while waiting for the glue to dry on the vacuum pipe connectors I thought that I would have a play with the instanter couplings. It's all new to me. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 (edited) That looks good. I haven't tried too hard to get the short link like you have. I did have a go but it was a faff. If you have curves, the stock maybe too close. Do you have a coupling tool? A big advantage of 7mm for me is that I can finally use prototype couplings. I spent 30 years messing about with Kadees. Another tip is to solder the link gaps which looks better. John Edited February 5, 2020 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 10 minutes ago, brossard said: That looks good. I haven't tried too hard to get the short link like you have. I did have a go but it was a faff. If you have curves, the stock maybe too close. Do you have a coupling tool? A big advantage of 7mm for me is that I can finally use prototype couplings. I spent 30 years messing about with Kadees. Another tip is to solder the link gaps which looks better. John No curves and no points yet just a yard of track on the dining room table. Funny that you mentioned a coupling tool, I have just been reading about torches with a length of hooked brass attached. No desperate need yet with one loco and nearly one wagon but this is on the list. A little solder on the links is now also on the list, thanks for the tip. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 I do have the boards made for my layout but no track laid yet. I made a couple of coupling tools which are really a piece of cake: Bright torch with thumb switch. Dowels and some steel wire bent and sharpened. All cobbled together with electrical tape. I have used these at a show and they work well. Another contributor here wanted to use a magnet but he was having trouble finding non magnetic links. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 Thanks John, they look useful and do-able. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 My 1.5mm rod arrived today so a bit of work on the vacuum pipework I started drilled a 0.8mm hole in the pipe for the smaller pipe that goes to the cylinder and then tinned. Glued in place and then fitted the small pipe That brake lever looks like it could do with some cleaning up. While the iron was hot had a play with the cam on the brake lever. That was a pig of a job next time I will solder them to a shaft and drill the V hanger to fit. Again a little more clean up required. Finally today a little bid of bracing as discussed earlier in the thread. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 Well that laminating the cam onto the brake lever was a waste of time and swears. The cam fits below the break lever not on it. I think that it is fixed now though. Point to note, the guide that the brake lever goes through (Where it is pinned on) is very fragile. Great care is neededl when cutting it from the sprue. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 (edited) Lots of lessons to learn. The brake guide is fragile. I have had it break on some of my wagons. One way to strengthen is to make a strut (check the photo above, you should see it). Overlength brass strip is best. I start by drilling a hole and soldering wire into it. I then drill a hole in the W iron opposite to the end of the guide. Then it is trial and error to get the strut to be the right length and angle. When the strut is right drill another hole at the other end, but don't cut it to length right away. Use CA to secure the pin in the W iron and slip another pin at the guide. This will give you a much stronger assembly. John Edited February 10, 2020 by brossard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 If you ever do a Morton 4-shoe wagon from slaters, you'll discover that the safety loops for the brakeshoes are just as fragile and more difficult to cut out. Michael 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted February 11, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2020 1 hour ago, mike hughes said: If you ever do a Morton 4-shoe wagon from slaters, you'll discover that the safety loops for the brakeshoes are just as fragile and more difficult to cut out. Michael Beat me to it. I've never actually managed to remove one from the sprue intact and now make them out of square brass rod. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 Agree Hal, as good as Slater's kits are, sometimes I have to shake my head. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
commsbloke Posted February 11, 2020 Author Share Posted February 11, 2020 Next adventure may be a Parkside Dundas, how do they compare to Slater's? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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