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  • RMweb Gold

Some answers:

 

This workshop, our third 'shed', was given my mother's names to celebrate her life. My youngest brother has a guitar called Ron, to celebrate our father's life.

 

We already have three other sheds. They're called 1, 2 and 4.

 

The treatment (that is overdue) is Sadolin Extra Durable Clearcoat. It should have been applied this last Summer, but I didn't get round to removing the moss from the roof, and that should really be done first.

 

Those spotters would have a field day underlining all the numbers they'd find around here. Not as good a day as they'd have somewhere else I could mention, though.

 

Just so you can see how things change:

 

P1020933.JPG.43b51934c67f906fcf285df77ee0aaeb.JPG

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19 hours ago, Tony Teague said:

 

Cliffhanger - will there be a shed 5 ????

(My money is on yes).

 

Well, funny you should say that.

 

Shed 1 has already had its rotten bottom removed and placed on a new floor, to be used for storing Summer furniture during the Winter. It has developed a leak in the roof, mainly due to the felt covering blowing away in the wind. Temporarily protected by a tarpaulin, it is likely to be replaced in the Spring by No. 5.

 

P1020928_Cropped.jpg.86306f5a643fdb05442f70a1dbf46460.jpg

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A bloke needs a shed. It's carved in stone somewhere.

Problem is, modern sheds suck. There's about enough wood in one to make a box of matches. I had one of those DIY store £200 jobs given to me. I'm sure glad I didn't pay for it. Despite not being rotten, it sort of burst one day, leaving me with a pile of spare parts and a heap of firewood. The felt roof went the first winter.

Its replacement was made from reclaimed 4"X 2", floorboards and corrugated iron. Liberally coated with a 50/50 mixture of creosote substitute and old engine oil, the shed has survived 25 years and several owners of the house.

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Creosote and engine oil I loved the smell of that! My neighbour used to paint his fence in it every year, the fence hadn't faded or rotted at all after at least 30+ years and is still standing long after he's passed. 

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  • RMweb Gold

A little bit more done with ballast and track colouring this afternoon. I tried some Mig Productions/Abteilung 502 Black Smoke pigment and Dark Wash on two small sections of ballast. I think that the pigment is too strong, but quite like the effect of the Dark Wash.

 

P1020935_Cropped.jpg.328fe15ff2b1f87fcb960a906f7f44d9.jpg

 

Only the centre of the track was coloured because that is how it looks in my reference photograph.

 

 

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19 hours ago, nickwood said:

I quite like both but the dark wash looks more suitable for most areas of track work. The black smoke could be used in areas of pointwork and where locos regularly stop.

 

I actually think that something heavier is apprpriate for where locos stop in stations etc, such as Old Engine Oil or Dirty Water type of washes (or whatever they are called).

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I thought that the Dark Wash might be a bit too dark for places where discolouration was only slight, so played with a few grey colours to find something suitable. I decided upon AMMO by MIG Panel Line Wash Deep Grey.

 

I have found a good few black and white photographs from books, websites and my own collection (Brian Jackson, Colin Caddy and Lens of Sutton purchases) that show up the track in the station area very well. These were taken from vantage points on both the Reforne bridge at the North end of the station and the footpath bridge at the South end. I think that because this area had relatively low levels of traffic, there wasn't too much heavy discolouration.

 

Final decision made about ballast/track colourings, then.

 

The process will be:

 

Airbrush the trackbase with Railmatch Sleeper Grime and leave to dry for 48 hours.

Paint rail sides with Vallejo Beige Brown and leave to harden for another 48 hours.

Apply Woodland Scenics Grey Blend medium for running track using PVA mix at 70/30 water/PVA.

Apply Woodland Scenics Grey Blend fine for other trackwork using same glue mix.

Leave for several days for everything to dry and cure.

Apply Mig Dark Wash and Panel Line Wash Deep Grey to areas where locomotives stand for any length of time.

 

My working sample is this concoction:

 

P1020942_Cropped.JPG.9cea069464a1d36e36a6ef0ba7e55b69.JPG

 

The ballast will have to be laid freehand because the use of the spreader device scratches the paint off the sleeper top surfaces, where particles of ballast get dragged underneath the device as it is moved along the track. A bit of a nuisance, really, but never mind.

 

There is a fair bit of track to do, so this won't be done for a while to come. And there's some weathering that needs to be done as well. You'll all have time to discuss other things while I'm getting on with it. :D

 

 

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6 hours ago, sb67 said:

Have you got Wilder's old grease pigment in your armoury? It's good for an oily, greasy look where loco's would stand but may be a bit too dark for the look you're after. 

 

That's the one I meant when I said Old Engine Oil! - the memory is fading.....

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22 hours ago, Mick Bonwick said:

Yes, I do have that one Steve but, as you surmise, it's a bit too dark. However, I might use it if I decide to represent fishplates. That is another question to consider, based on what can be seen in my reference photograph.

 

:(

 

That would look good on fishplates. Guess you'd need a few of them though! 

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