Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

While thinking about road and track surfaces that might be relevant to Easton, I referred to many sources - books, magazines, Internet forums, other folks' accounts and my own experiments. One method that I have not previously tried is the use of an embossed roller for soft materials.

 

I invested in a roller (Sett Pavement) from Green Stuff World, although I'm sure that they can be obtained elsewhere or even made at home for those with the skills, determination and perseverance. My plan was to use it on some DAS, but a mention by @Mikkel of their suitability on 'blue foam' steered me in that direction. I think that the blue foam referred to was different to that which I have been using on Easton. Hard as I tried I could not get the roller to make a clear impression on my version of blue foam, even by leaning on the roller with most of my weight.

 

I also have a tube of acrylic filler from Green Stuff World and decided to apply a thin layer to the blue foam (while I still had it in the workspace) and run the roller across that.

 

P1040341_Cropped.jpg.e6d9377807bf85bb936399306f905004.jpg

 

You might be able to make out the abortive attempt on the plain blue foam just to the left of the green filler. I probably should have found and read some instructions on the use of the filler before starting, but where's the fun in that? Something to be aware of before repeating this exercise is that the roller might need a coat of vaseline, talcum powder or water before applying to the filler, just to inhibit sticking. The result shown was the third attempt!

 

After about 10 minutes for drying, I applied a rough coat of Tamiya Neutral Grey acrylic paint to the area. No particular reason for the colour choice, it just happened to be in the box. I made no attempt to make it an even or consistent coat, just slapped it on.

 

P1040342_Cropped.jpg.e2dec595c8c0fd63835bd11b03963331.jpg

 

I have never previously managed particularly well with dry-brushing, my results always looking as if they had been dry-brushed. This time I had a go with another Tamiya colour (Medium Grey) because that, too, was in the box. This time the result of my attempts at dry-brushing was a little more acceptable.

 

P1040345.JPG.22adfc09591b9f732e7ba41825b0f0e4.JPG

 

In this photograph you can see where, even after the third attempt, some filler had stuck to the roller during application. It has led to some rather non-prototypical shapes of sett.

 

I finished off this little experiment by adding some AK Interactive Slimy Grime Light wash to the indentation in the blue foam in an attempt to represent a build-up of algal growth in a damp depression in the setts. The Land Rover has intruded yet again, just to give the sense of scale to the scene.

 

P1040346_Cropped.JPG.7a3ef97b7f839cff5cccf2dbdacd60c7.JPG

Edited by Mick Bonwick
Ineptitude.
  • Like 8
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Sorry to hear you had trouble with the rollers on the blue foam Mick. They must be different types then. Mine is the stuff that diorama modellers tend to call "blue foam", although I understand that (unhelpfully) it has recently changed to a grey colour. I don't know the actual brand name I'm afraid, as I get mine in an architect's store.

 

This post in my workbench thread shows the rollers used on the blue foam:

 

 

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Many thanks for pointing me at your workbench thread, @Mikkel. I'll now spend a good deal of precious modelling time finding out how I ought to have done things! I was interested to see that you, also, have found that many tools, materials and techniques employed by military, wargaming and diorama modellers are applicable to what we do as railway modellers. It's rather a shame that they don't all do it to the same scales.

 

The blue foam that I have rather a lot of was intended for use in modelling workshops, but was too thick (50mm), and was replaced by thinner (25mm) material that had a slightly different composition. I'll have to find a piece pf the replacement material to see if it is more suitable.

 

In the meantime, and while I am waiting for some DAS to be delivered, I have decided to use the piece of foam upon which the setts were modelled as a small diorama. I really ought to be getting on with ballasting, but can't resist working on scenery of the green variety.

 

P1040368.JPG.27ddbb0e0cf72d079f5c3f408896ae47.JPG

 

A section 8" x 8" has been removed from the block and been carved so that a small hut (Page 24) can be positioned at the top of a slope. Progress might be slow, though, because I have to prepare a piece of garden for a new shed. A full size 12" = 1' shed.

 

 

  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  • Friendly/supportive 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, ian said:

How many sheds is that now, Mick?

 

This one is a replacement, Ian. The one I repaired a few years ago needs more repairs (NOT the ones I did then) so we've deicided to replace it completely. The old one is 7' x 5' and the new one is 10' x 8' so a 'few' more paving slabs need to be laid.

 

The answer to your question is 4, if you include the workshop.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Mick Bonwick said:

 

This one is a replacement, Ian. The one I repaired a few years ago needs more repairs (NOT the ones I did then) so we've deicided to replace it completely. The old one is 7' x 5' and the new one is 10' x 8' so a 'few' more paving slabs need to be laid.

 

The answer to your question is 4, if you include the workshop.

 

When you say 'workshop', is that the one with Easton in it or the separate one you were thinking of having for weathering......??? :rolleyes:

  • Like 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Layer of glue applied.

 

P1040370.JPG.0074c8f906636dcff7d963129f151b10.JPG

 

Followed by the application of two different layers of static grass, a plain 2mm all-over layer for the flat top area and a mixture of lengths and colours for the slope.

 

P1040371.JPG.f8da439c845b300a826c4df6c9c8e236.JPG

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 11/06/2021 at 20:54, Mick Bonwick said:

Further hot-wire work completed today. The land form is looking more like the way I envisaged it.

 

P1040295_Cropped.jpg.164903a4f2f8e1e476e830b8a8418957.jpg

 

The infill for the watercourse is now in place. There was never any such feature anywhere near Easton, as far as I can tell, but this is my version! Ultimately there will be a rail bridge to support the mid-air section of trackwork and a road/track bridge just to the right in this view, where you might be able to make out a 'flat bit'.

Looking very good Mick. I've used a small hand held surform for shaping modelfoam when doing scenery, with a vacuum cleaner hose held adjacent to keep the mess down. I use sanding blocks to smooth down afterwards/

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, ullypug said:

Looking very good Mick. I've used a small hand held surform for shaping modelfoam when doing scenery, with a vacuum cleaner hose held adjacent to keep the mess down. I use sanding blocks to smooth down afterwards/

 

Thanks, Andrew. The idea behind using the hot-wire cutter was to not create dust in the first place. Using sanding blocks is OK if the foam is not yet stuck down, because the pieces can be taken outside, but some of them need to be stuck down on the layout before shaping. They'll have plaster impregnated bandage laid over them before finishing work starts, so don't have to be perfectly smooth.

 

A couple of components in place to see how it looks. PVA laid in the ditch ready for being muddied, and a couple of taller weeds inserted into the ditch area.

 

P1040373_Cropped.JPG.908c69ff8f43f542f2635c95a58f4573.JPG

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
21 minutes ago, Mick Bonwick said:

A couple of components in place to see how it looks. PVA laid in the ditch ready for being muddied, and a couple of taller weeds inserted into the ditch area.

 

Wot, no Land Rover?

  • Agree 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Ditch mud laid and dried. Now I'm applying some PVA along the bottom of the ditch with a cocktail stick to imply that there is some residual dampness there. Not a layer of water, as such, but shiny mud where there is still some wetness. A thin layer will dry shiny.

 

P1040376_Cropped.JPG.f8a6829df827fc410bc16fe8232ee42c.JPG

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Lovely mud! Does your PVA dry clear, or will it be varnished?

 

The PVA in the photograph is mostly dry, Mikkel. You may be able to determine from the picture that it dries clear and with a shine to it. I don't plan to add anything to what you see, thinking that it looks acceptable as it is.

  • Agree 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...