Jintynut Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Hi All You might say I'm a newbie, after half century of having done no railway modelling apart keeping a hand in now and again. I'm in the process of building a house with a games room dedicated to our hobby which includes temperature control about room temperature with a workshop just beyond the fiddle yard. However I've been in touch with Phoenix Paints, they say that I should not airbrush paints above 14 degrees C other wise the solvents would dry too quickly, their paints were primarily designed to be used outside in industrial conditions they have supplied to Derby maybe still do and Derby supplies information to them, you cannot ask for a better pedigree. However I cannot drop the temperature to 14 degrees to do a bit of airbrush painting without detrimental effects to the layout, the very effect that we try to eradicate with our models. So what is the general consensus at which temperature you should airbrush paint and I would imagine further thin the paint. Bert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 I assume you are talking about enamel paints? 14c sounds very cold. I don't think I have ever airbrushed in temperature that low. a more comfortable 20c sounds a lot better. Phoenix make quick drying & standard thinners. I have some of each & don't feel that the quick drying ones provide any benefit. If you find your paint is going off too quickly, you should definitely not be using these. Don't thin your paint too much. It will not cover very well. I think Railmatch's recommendations were 80% paint 20% thinners. Start with around that & give it a go. Light coats are much better, with 5-10 minutes between each coat to go tacky before applying the next. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 Phoenix enamels seem to be very sensitive to the thinning. I've tended to increase the thinning, run the brush at lower pressure and do more coats. Using less thinning I tend to get a grainy finish. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 Ive noticed with Phoenix enamels, particularly the ready thinned ones, they require a bit more thinning as well, otherwise they also give a grainy finnish and don't airbrush well, I think overall they do require slightly more thinning down, but once thinned correctly they give a nice finnish. NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted February 7, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 7, 2020 On 05/02/2020 at 10:17, Guy Rixon said: Phoenix enamels seem to be very sensitive to the thinning. I've tended to increase the thinning, run the brush at lower pressure and do more coats. Using less thinning I tend to get a grainy finish. I have found this as well, best results seem to be from thinning more than normal and waft on several light coats. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Rathbone Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 I've been using Precision paints for over 40 years. Thin with white spirit 50:50 then test on a flat sheet and adjust if necessary, (I rarely have to). Spray a mist coat on the model first to see where the shadows are and then a wet coat, watching the paint surface very closely to avoid runs. Good lighting is essential. A series of light coats is a safe method but this tends to give quite a matt finish which is no good for transfers or lining. I always use their gloss paints. I have no problems spraying at about 20deg C. There is a good book that covers this Ian R 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintynut Posted February 13, 2020 Author Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) Thanks for that, when speaking to a guy at Phoenix he was most insistent that I should spray at their recommended temperature, perhaps he doesn't appreciate that airbrushing takes place at 6 to 8 inches from the item, a third less than in the industrial situation, reducing time for the solvents to dry, but my fear would be undue clogging within a reasonable period of application. I was watching a program which included painting carriages in India, they still brush paint in the high eighties perhaps that's why. Bert Edited February 13, 2020 by Jintynut Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted February 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2020 On 10/02/2020 at 22:53, Ian Rathbone said: There is a good book that covers this Ian R And the Right Tracks 3 DVD covering painting and lining (https://www.videoscene.co.uk/painting-lining-and-finishing-locos-and-coaches-right-track-3) where you and a certain Mr Wright make it look so easy!! I now use a hair-dryer between coats, and mix the paint better down to your expert advise and it has rapidly improved my painting times and finish. I have observed your work at shows and I am truly astounded by the quality of your work. Back on topic - If Mr Rathbone says its fine, I would trust him more than the guy at Phoenix! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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