Shapeways Fine Detail Plastic / FUD - Does it still Crystallise?

[justin1985]

I haven't used Shapeways for a few years after I got a Photon 3D printer at home. However, there are a few things on the Shapeways store that I could use for a project I have in mind, which are too complex to re-design myself, and I can't imagine the designers being willing to share their STLs (is it ever worth asking?) 

 

I think pretty much all of the old "FUD" (I think this is the same as "Fine Detail Plastic" now?) things I had printed a few years ago tended to develop a weird crystallisation effect, even when they had been thoroughly cleaned using hot water and washing up liquid and a brush (and/or ultrasonic cleaner). Looking at some of the models from then which I cleaned and painted with primer, the crystallisation has come out again through the primer (I never actually finished any of them!).  I found a few posts online about this sort of thing from a few years ago, but none seem to come up with any firm conclusion. e.g. this one from 2018: https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/problems-with-shapeways-frosted-detail-3d-printing-plastics.286382/ 

 

So, did anyone ever find a way of stopping this kind of problem with Shapeways prints? And does it still occur on new orders?

 

Cheers

 

Justin 

[m0rris]

Hi Justin,

 

Naturally there is a slight issue with the most recent prints I have as they haven't had time to develop any crystals! However, the most recent prints that I do have are a lot more opaque due to a much more rigorous de-gunkifying process and over the past 2 years the standards have improved significantly.

 

I hope this helps

[Quarryscapes]

Can't tell on my more recent prints (last year or so) but I have stuff from around 3 years ago that is nice and glittery. It just does just brush off with a soft brush much the same as dust. I have noticed a slight recurrence on some of my oldest prints, but not to the extent that appeared first time round, so whatever it is is definitely getting spent up. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the paint from it either. (Acrylics or enamels). 

[D869]

I took part in a fairly lengthy thread on the Shapeways forum about this. Several knowledgeable people contributed but the main thing that was absent was any concrete info from Shapeways or the suppliers of the machines and resin concerned. All that I can say is that it has diminished my confidence in Shapeways and this process in particular. I have redrawn some of my models for SLA/DLP but there are some models of mine that don't really suit SLA/DLP  so I am still using SW.

 

Sorry not really an answer to your question but without an answer from the printer/resin makers and/or Shapeways I think there will always be an element of  'Fear, Uncertainty and Doubt'.

 

Regards, Andy

[Steadfast]

The one thing (rather unscientifically) that when mine and my friend's models were compared seemed to be that Halfords top coat of paint (not a primer) seems to lock in whatever leaches from the plastic and makes it glittery.

Games workshop acrylic, Railmatch enamel, Halfords primer and unpainted all seemed to get glittery over time.

My process for non-glittery models was to prime, sand, fill, repeat (using Halfords primers) and once happy with the finish, top coat the model in a glossy Halfords top coat (ie one of the ones sold as a colour match). These have a different consistency to the primers and a more plastic like feel once dry. Once a thin coat of this is on, you can over paint with whatever you like. It also seems to over come the issue of enamels not drying when directly on applied to FUD.

Like I said, not scientific, but hopefully a help, and other paints may also have the same effect.

 

Jo

Edited February 6, 2020 by Steadfast

[Quarryscapes]

Just going to update this since another year has passed. None of my 16mm scale prints have yet crystalized, and those ones from years ago that did crystalize seem to have finally stopped developing new crystals.