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Help re removing a DCC chip!


Monte
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Hello folks,

 

I have recently and inadvertently bought a DCC fitted Bachmann Jubilee (45587 "Baroda")  which I cannot use as my layout is DC analogue. Unfortunately the seller advertised the loco as in working condition but omitted to say  it was a  DCC loco.

I have taken the body off and looked at the chip, abut as there are several coloured wires attached to it, I was wondering if anyone new  which wires come to and from the collector?

Is it therefore a simple  job therefore to simply cut all the wires from the chip and join up the relevant ones so  that the loco will run on DC?

 

Any help on this will be gratefully received!

 

Kind regards,

 

Monte

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2 hours ago, RedgateModels said:

Pretty sure that it's an 8 pin DCC socketed loco, so you should be able to remove the decoder (not "chip" please!) and replace it with a blanking plug. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-OO-31-186-JUBILEE-45587-BARODA-BR-GREEN-LATE-CREST-DCC-READY-LOCO/253840669494?epid=1366709402&hash=item3b1a153b36:g:2mEAAOSw89JbiB8V

 

It says DCC Ready 8-pin on this listing, so I'd assume that you are right and the decoder can simply be removed from the socket and a blanking plug fitted.  There may even be one in the box.

 

However, changing CV29 to enable DC running would be just as good an option.

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2 hours ago, Dungrange said:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-OO-31-186-JUBILEE-45587-BARODA-BR-GREEN-LATE-CREST-DCC-READY-LOCO/253840669494?epid=1366709402&hash=item3b1a153b36:g:2mEAAOSw89JbiB8V

 

It says DCC Ready 8-pin on this listing, so I'd assume that you are right and the decoder can simply be removed from the socket and a blanking plug fitted.  There may even be one in the box.

 

However, changing CV29 to enable DC running would be just as good an option.

So is it actually DCC fitted or just DCC ready.

 

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Thank you guys for your kind replies,  Iain yes I did try running it, I put a Jinty just in front of it and when I turned the power on the Jinty chugged off just fine but the Jub stayed where it was even after I gave it a quick prod! So I took the Jub off quickly in  case I was going to damage it somehow.

Attached is a photo of the loco in question, any advice as to how I can remove the decoder please without wrecking everything? (not the chip - thanks Redgate models for correcting my terminology!).  Rab, on the box it says DCC ready.

Can`t seem to see a blanking plate, or even if I`d recognise it for that matter, presumably it`s a small piece of plastic that clips over the socket?

 

Cheers guys,

 

Monte

DSC_8152.JPG

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It looks to me as though the actual decoder is the slightly out of focus item that you can see part of in the bottom left of the above photograph.  From that decoder, there are eight wires of different colours that all run to an 8 pin plug.  That is the green rectangular shape that is in the centre of the picture, which has eight blobs of solder on top (connecting the eight wires).  Underneath that is an eight pin socket, which is black in colour.  What you are looking to do is separate that plug (the green board with eight wires attached) from the black socket underneath.

 

The blanking plate is a separate piece of plastic, that just has eight pins and fits into the socket instead.  The model will originally have been sold with this fitted in the model.  When fitting the DCC decoder the original purchaser will have removed it and they will either have put it in the box along with detailing parts or have thrown or given it away.  If it's not there, then you can purchase new blanking plates.

 

I note that you said that you tried running it with another locomotive on the track.  Did you try running it on its own?  I ask because when running a DCC Fitted locomotive on DC (ie one with a decoder fitted in it), it is necessary to turn up the DC controller such that there is around a seven volt potential difference between the rails to start the decoder up before the locomotive will start to move.  The Jinty may start to move at a lower voltage.

Edited by Dungrange
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Hello Monte,

 

These are some 8-pin blanking plugs. You will see that there are actually only 6 pins fitted, and these are joined together in two sets. This is so the blank joins all the connections needed for DC running, and it doesn't matter which way around the blank is fitted.

 

1567558769_RMweb8-pinblanks.jpg.ccdac06794e770e910cb6b7f9834077f.jpg

 

I find it best to prise the blanks or the 8-pin plugs (such as you have shown in the photo) out of the socket using some tweezers inserted between the two. Just gently do it, some can be a tighter fit than others. Although it has been suggested that you can leave the decoder and enable DC running, if you don't have any means of doing this then fitting a blank might be better for you. And especially given the extra current they want before moving. I don't find running decoder fitted locos on DC to be a brilliant experience compared to without the decoder, but maybe that is just me.

 

Izzy

 

 

 

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Hi David, Hi Izzy,

 

Firstly thanks again for you kind and prompt replies; I  have managed to gently separate the decoder from the chip, so far so good!,

Izzy, looking at your photo of the blanking plate there definitely isn`t anything like that in the loco`s box.  When I first read about blanking plates my little brain thought it was just something to cover the socket up but reading your post it`s clear now that the loco won`t run without one as the pins I assume connect the relevant wires from the pickups to the motor. This being the case, as I need to order one, are all the sockets the exactly the same configuration (or at least all Bachmann ones) or do I have to look for one specifically for the Jubilee? 

 

Many thanks again guys for your help.

 

Cheers,

 

Monte

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The 8 pin connection is a standard item, so any blanking plate will be fine.

 

DCC decoders will be programmed to run on DC or ignore it. (There are good reasons to disable it but these will be irrelevant to you).

It is quite likely that the previous owner has programmed it to ignore DC. You will only have damaged the decoder if you have a feedback controller or high frequency track cleaner, otherwise it will simply be ignoring the track voltage.

Anyone with a DCC system should be able to enable DC running or reset the decoder (DC is usually enabled by default). You may well be able to do a straight swap or even make some money from a swap for a blanking plate.

 

I doubt I am the only DCC user with some blanking plates in a box somewhere.

 

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Hi guys,

 

Pete thanks for your reply,  surprisingly the seller had pinned what now turns out to be the blanking plate on the underside of the polystyrene box, so I have just carefully fitted it to the Jub, tried in on my rolling road and it runs absolutely fine. So thank you good people as I now have another loco "in traffic"!

 

A friend of mine has a Hornby Grange (ref R2404) that is coming my way this next week that is DCC ready,  so I will have to look at that too, I`m hoping that the decoder is as easy to take out as the Bachmann one was and that the blanking plate is still in that box as well!

 

Kind regards and many thanks again,

 

Monte

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Monte said:

A friend of mine has a Hornby Grange (ref R2404) that is coming my way this next week that is DCC ready,  so I will have to look at that too, I`m hoping that the decoder is as easy to take out as the Bachmann one was and that the blanking plate is still in that box as well!

 

 

You shouldn't need to do anything with the Grange.

 

DCC ready wouldn't normally be a problem, that means it left the factory wired with a DCC socket but has a blanking plate in place - a DCC ready loco will NOT run on DCC as it's not fitted with a decoder.   Your Jubilee has had a decoder fitted by the previous owner, in the form it left the factory you wouldn't have had any issues.

 

Martin

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In the event of not having a blanking plate just jumper wire the two pins at each end short end of the socket.

You can that see the blanking plates short out three pins at each end but the inner pin is for lighting, so you just need the end pins jumpered on a steamer. 

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Hi guys,

 

Thanks yet again for your help,

 

Martin - you are bang on re the Grange, it ran absolutely fine on my rolling road straight from the box so no problem there.

RAF96 - thanks for that bit of info, that may come in useful if I end up with a DCC fitted loco that doesn`t have a blanking plate!

 

Kind regards,

 

Monte

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