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Old Devilbiss autograph 63....worth persevering?


ikcdab
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Many years ago I inherited this airbrush and a compressor. I have no idea how old it is but is must be 1980s or earlier. I also have no idea how much use it had before it was gifted to me. It has sat in my desk ever since and only recently have I decided to give it a try.

After much perseverance, I have managed to get it working, but it seems to clog very easily. The paint will spray for a short period of time then it stops flowing. I have tried different thinning and different needle settings and I have taken it apart and cleaned it many times.

Bearing in mind where I got it from, I imagine this was a decent airbrush in its day. It won't have been cheap.

I have tried humbrol and precision enamel and humbrol and Tamiya acrylics.

Is it worth persevering with this to get it working? Are there parts that might need replacing, there is a brass nozzle inside the tip. I have a spare needle too. 

Or do I just cut my losses and buy a new one?

Thanks!

20200214_084654.jpg

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Hi,

 

If it were me, I'd strip it down, give it a good clean, and replace anything that seems damaged or worn.

 

DeVilbiss are a long established company and spares shouldn't be a problem. 

 

Quality item.

 

With all paints, it's the thinning versus pressure that you need to get right. Acrylics dry very quickly and can clog the nozzle. A flow enhancer can help.

 

There's lots of info' videos on YouTube.

 

HTH

 

Rob

 

 

 

 

Edited by mezzoman253
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39 minutes ago, mezzoman253 said:

Hi,

 

If it were me, I'd strip it down, give it a good clean, and replace anything that seems damaged or worn.

 

DeVilbiss are a long established company and spares shouldn't be a problem. 

 

Quality item.

 

With all paints, it's the thinning versus pressure that you need to get right. Acrylics dry very quickly and can clog the nozzle very quickly. A flow enhancer can help.

 

There's lots of info' videos on YouTube.

 

HTH

 

Rob

 

I'd agree - this was my first airbrush and it's a quality item.

 

Get some airbrush 'reamer'; soak the individual components; replace any sealing rings / gaskets; and check the needle under a magnifying glass to ensure it hasn't got any kinks / bends; (which can often be removed by rolling the point on a hard surface with your finger).

 

Re-assemple the airbrush with the needle clamping nut slackened off; gently push the needle full forard into the nozzle; pull back the needle trigger the tiniest amount and then tighten the needle clamp collar. This should ensure that the needle is fully closing the nozzle when the trigger is released. (Incidently, there should be a clamping washer on the needle just before the clamp collar; this comprises a short length of brass tube with angled cut ends. The angled cuts cause the tube to skew and lock onto the needle).

 

Press the trigger to start the airflow, then slowly pull back the trigger to commence paint flow. When finishing a paint pass, let the trigger move fully forward to stop the paint flow before releasing pressure on the trigger to stop the airflow - this should blow through any remaining paint. At the end of a session, or after a long pause / paint change, ALWAYS blow through some thinners appropriate to the type of paint being used.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I'd agree - this was my first airbrush and it's a quality item.

 

Get some airbrush 'reamer'; soak the individual components; replace any sealing rings / gaskets; and check the needle under a magnifying glass to ensure it hasn't got any kinks / bends; (which can often be removed by rolling the point on a hard surface with your finger).

 

Re-assemple the airbrush with the needle clamping nut slackened off; gently push the needle full forard into the nozzle; pull back the needle trigger the tiniest amount and then tighten the needle clamp collar. This should ensure that the needle is fully closing the nozzle when the trigger is released. (Incidently, there should be a clamping washer on the needle just before the clamp collar; this comprises a short length of brass tube with angled cut ends. The angled cuts cause the tube to skew and lock onto the needle).

 

Press the trigger to start the airflow, then slowly pull back the trigger to commence paint flow. When finishing a paint pass, let the trigger move fully forward to stop the paint flow before releasing pressure on the trigger to stop the airflow - this should blow through any remaining paint. At the end of a session, or after a long pause / paint change, ALWAYS blow through some thinners appropriate to the type of paint being used.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Thank you for the replies. I have taken it apart as much as I can.  I have removed the screw that goes through the cam ring. But the cam ring is locked solid. Is it supposed to move? If so I will try and gently free it up. What does the cam ring do?

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23 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

Thank you for the replies. I have taken it apart as much as I can.  I have removed the screw that goes through the cam ring. But the cam ring is locked solid. Is it supposed to move? If so I will try and gently free it up. What does the cam ring do?

 

The cam ring, as I recall, sets a variable limit to the amount your can pull back the needle. This prevents you accidently increasing the paint flow to an excessive extent.

 

It's literally decades since I used an airbrush of this type, and my aging memory is somewhat sketchy.

 

There is one of these airbrushes for sale on Ebay at present, complete with instructions;  https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1623268682; ; if you lack the instructions, the seller may well be prepared to sell you a copy of them.

 

Enquiries here http://www.getpainted.com/vintageairbrushes.html may also be productive.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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19 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

The cam ring, as I recall, sets a variable limit to the amount your can pull back the needle. This prevents you accidently increasing the paint flow to an excessive extent.

 

It's literally decades since I used an airbrush of this type, and my aging memory is somewhat sketchy.

 

There is one of these airbrushes for sale on Ebay at present, complete with instructions;  https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1623268682; ; if you lack the instructions, the seller may well be prepared to sell you a copy of them.

 

Enquiries here http://www.getpainted.com/vintageairbrushes.html may also be productive.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Thank you that's all very helpful. So yesterday i stripped it down completely, managed to free up the cam ring and get it all apart. Thoroughly cleaned it and removed lots of crud. Reassembled. It took ages to fiddle the screw holding the trigger back in place.

Switched on with water in the cup and nothing coming through, just lots of bubbling in the cup. Back to Google.

Then I realise that much of the crud I removed was probably disintegrated washers, in particular there is no sign of the nozzle washer so I have ordered some suitable o rings.

The diaphrahm washer goes through the activation rod, but is detached from it and the hole in the washer looks ragged. Will also order replacement. 

My question is around the gland nut. I removed this, cleaned it and replaced it. I screwed it down tightish and the  needle goes through it. Does it need to be tight? Also, a drawing I found online shows a gland nut washer wbich I saw no sign of. Of course it may have stayed in the airbrush when I cleaned it. I could buy a new one but it would mean removing the trigger again and refitting the trigger screw was such a pain that I don't want to do that for fun.

I can't see any other washers, if I replace the nozzle washer and diaphragm is that likely to imp4ove things or is there something else I might be missing?

Ps, thanks for the eBay link but when clicked it isn't an airbrush at all, just a painting of one, despite the description.....

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Beautiful bit of kit.

 

Keep it, use it, don't buy a new one unless it's an addition.

 

https://www.cumber.nl/AerographDevilbissSuper63parts.html

 

https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/aerograph-devilbiss-super-63-service-bulletin.20571/

(You'll have to create an account to get these service sheet images.)

 

https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/found-some-useful-devilbis-parts.19860/

 

939d2ce903364f4300e8beed7c6a8aab.jpg

 

 

Otherwise, a period airbrushing book might have some useful servicing instructions...  just an idea.

 

If you think about it, when you spray, you'll be the modelling equivalent of that guy driving a Lotus Cortina instead of a Ford Mondeo.*

 

(* Artistic Licence applied.)

Edited by FoxUnpopuli
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51 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

Thank you that's all very helpful. So yesterday i stripped it down completely, managed to free up the cam ring and get it all apart. Thoroughly cleaned it and removed lots of crud. Reassembled. It took ages to fiddle the screw holding the trigger back in place.

Switched on with water in the cup and nothing coming through, just lots of bubbling in the cup. Back to Google.

Then I realise that much of the crud I removed was probably disintegrated washers, in particular there is no sign of the nozzle washer so I have ordered some suitable o rings.

The diaphrahm washer goes through the activation rod, but is detached from it and the hole in the washer looks ragged. Will also order replacement. 

My question is around the gland nut. I removed this, cleaned it and replaced it. I screwed it down tightish and the  needle goes through it. Does it need to be tight? Also, a drawing I found online shows a gland nut washer wbich I saw no sign of. Of course it may have stayed in the airbrush when I cleaned it. I could buy a new one but it would mean removing the trigger again and refitting the trigger screw was such a pain that I don't want to do that for fun.

I can't see any other washers, if I replace the nozzle washer and diaphragm is that likely to imp4ove things or is there something else I might be missing?

Ps, thanks for the eBay link but when clicked it isn't an airbrush at all, just a painting of one, despite the description.....

 

Sorry about the link - when I posted it it went to https://www.google.com/search?q=devilbiss+autograph+63+instructions&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=48jAqnRbAhpUIM%3A%2CE_0BORZYsKO1PM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSZSFRHgT4nd1bMQH3xBuh5N8JdwQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBv_W2q9PnAhXXShUIHWY0DKgQ9QEwA3oECAoQBQ#imgrc=48jAqnRbAhpUIM: ; presumably it's been sold.

 

To be honest, I only have a vague recollection of the detailed construction of the 63 airbrush - if you can post an exploded diagram I should be able to remeber better and perhaps answer you question.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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51 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

Thank you that's all very helpful. So yesterday i stripped it down completely, managed to free up the cam ring and get it all apart. Thoroughly cleaned it and removed lots of crud. Reassembled. It took ages to fiddle the screw holding the trigger back in place.

Switched on with water in the cup and nothing coming through, just lots of bubbling in the cup. Back to Google.

Then I realise that much of the crud I removed was probably disintegrated washers, in particular there is no sign of the nozzle washer so I have ordered some suitable o rings.

The diaphrahm washer goes through the activation rod, but is detached from it and the hole in the washer looks ragged. Will also order replacement. 

My question is around the gland nut. I removed this, cleaned it and replaced it. I screwed it down tightish and the  needle goes through it. Does it need to be tight? Also, a drawing I found online shows a gland nut washer wbich I saw no sign of. Of course it may have stayed in the airbrush when I cleaned it. I could buy a new one but it would mean removing the trigger again and refitting the trigger screw was such a pain that I don't want to do that for fun.

I can't see any other washers, if I replace the nozzle washer and diaphragm is that likely to imp4ove things or is there something else I might be missing?

Ps, thanks for the eBay link but when clicked it isn't an airbrush at all, just a painting of one, despite the description.....

 

Sorry about the link - when I posted it it went to https://www.google.com/search?q=devilbiss+autograph+63+instructions&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=48jAqnRbAhpUIM%3A%2CE_0BORZYsKO1PM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSZSFRHgT4nd1bMQH3xBuh5N8JdwQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBv_W2q9PnAhXXShUIHWY0DKgQ9QEwA3oECAoQBQ#imgrc=48jAqnRbAhpUIM: ; presumably it's been sold.

 

To be honest, I only have a vague recollection of the detailed construction of the 63 airbrush - if you can post an exploded diagram I should be able to remeber better and perhaps answer you question.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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1 hour ago, FoxUnpopuli said:

Beautiful bit of kit.

 

Keep it, use it, don't buy a new one unless it's an addition.

 

https://www.cumber.nl/AerographDevilbissSuper63parts.html

 

https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/aerograph-devilbiss-super-63-service-bulletin.20571/

(You'll have to create an account to get these service sheet images.)

 

https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/found-some-useful-devilbis-parts.19860/

 

939d2ce903364f4300e8beed7c6a8aab.jpg

 

 

Otherwise, a period airbrushing book might have some useful servicing instructions...  just an idea.

 

If you think about it, when you spray, you'll be the modelling equivalent of that guy driving a Lotus Cortina instead of a Ford Mondeo.*

 

(* Artistic Licence applied.)

Thank you thats very helpful. I am glad i am perservering. I happen to like lotus cortinas!

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Back in the late 70s and 80s this was my workhorse for illustration work with inks and watercolours. In those days it was considered the Rolls Royce of airbrushes but they had to be treated with great care. The parts are very finely machined and quite delicate, as you might expect from a tool that was delivered with a test piece consisting of a pencil thin sprayed lines. The brass nozzles were prone to splitting and you only had to look at the needles and they would get bent. I still have mine but it is more of a memento now. I doubt that I would want to use it with enamels or acrylic paints anyway, as the slightest impurity in the paint can cause a blockage.

 

These days I use an Iwata Neo for spraying models which is bombproof by comparison.

 

David

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Hi all,

 

I still use the one I bought in 1979 and it gives great results.

 

It's a bit like an old steam engine though!

 

Everything that can be replaced through wear over time has been - some bits several times!

 

Spares are still available and not too expensive either.

 

Thanks

Phil H

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7 hours ago, Kylestrome said:

These days I use an Iwata Neo for spraying models which is bombproof by comparison.

 

7 hours ago, cctransuk said:

Me too - does everything I want and more.

 

@Kylestrome@cctransuk Not wishing to hijack this thread too much, I have two related questions for both of you: what compressors do you use, and what compressor would you buy now if you had to replace it?

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6 minutes ago, FoxUnpopuli said:

 

 

....what compressor would you buy now if you had to replace it?

 

https://haoshengnb.en.made-in-china.com/product/dskERZSTCQVY/China-Hseng-Portable-Mini-Airbrush-Compressor-As196.html

 

I doubt that I'll ever have to replace it - but, if I had to, it'd be another one exactly the same.

 

I bought it for a ridiculously cheap price - which included a free, very well made, airbrush !!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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11 minutes ago, FoxUnpopuli said:

 

@Kylestrome Not wishing to hijack this thread too much, I have two related questions for both of you: what compressors do you use, and what compressor would you buy now if you had to replace it?

 

My compressor is like this one (which is available under different brand names) but without the strange airbrush holder 'thing':

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Compressor-airbrushing-decorating-customised/dp/B00JAJTKWQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_4/262-4787397-6555842?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JAJTKWQ&pd_rd_r=60ea92b5-f420-498b-ad2e-f7833620325f&pd_rd_w=rTXqy&pd_rd_wg=wpj18&pf_rd_p=15216146-4434-47f5-99d9-56240c85bf4d&pf_rd_r=S37223F02MYZQNPCFZGZ&psc=1&refRID=S37223F02MYZQNPCFZGZ

 

The 'must have' features are the air tank/reservoir and the water trap.

 

HTH,

David

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Thank you gents.  10 cents for a compressor?!  Mind you, Father and I bought 20-odd motors recently for <£2 each, free postage.  One of the types ordered is identical to the Hornby black unit which seems to sell for ~£20.  Silly.  It's going to come to tears at some point, surely?

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13 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:

 

That's an Hseng too - just the single cylinder version.

 

Do a Google search on Hseng AS196 - they're available from loads of outlets, and under different branding too; but Hseng are the manufacturers.

 

The feature that I like on mine is the two position switch. One option has a pressure switch that keeps the tank pressure between 3 and 4 BAR; the other gives variable pressure via the manual pressure valve up to 6 BAR.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Hmm.  A very similar one (painted black) for £85 from Manomano (in France?) and from Amazon in a black case for £120.  Why wouldn't I go for an Iwata Silver-Jet for a few pounds more?  It doesn't quite have the pressure of the AS196...

 

(OK, now we're thread hijacking.  :D  Maybe we should take this to PM...?)

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I have a couple of DeVil is air brushes but now cannot get hold of any spares as the company that took over the supply of parts has stopped doing them. I have now given up trying to find spares and now use a couple of Harder  and Steenbeck airbrushes and have been very impressed with them.

 

David

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7 hours ago, Norton961 said:

I have a couple of DeVil is air brushes but now cannot get hold of any spares as the company that took over the supply of parts has stopped doing them. I have now given up trying to find spares and now use a couple of Harder  and Steenbeck airbrushes and have been very impressed with them.

 

David

I just bought spares for this aerograph from here https://www.everythingairbrush.com/

Very quick service too.

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Ok so I struggling with this.  I replaced the diaphragm and the nozzle washer. Although my compressor is running as it did before, the airstream out of the brush is not as strong as it was before. Not sure if that's good or bad.

I tried some tamiya acrylic and it was reasonably ok, although the arc of the spray was very fine. More like a pencil than a brush.

After cleaning, I tried humbrol enamel thinned with white spirit. Still a very narrow "beam" and it keeps clogging. Tried different dilution, all the same. Now it will barely spray neat white spirit.

My perseverance is now getting very worn.

Any advice?

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While I admire your willingness to try this out, and your perseverance, I can’t help thinking that this is not the ideal airbrush for spraying ‘model paints’, especially acrylics which dry out very quickly in the airbrush.

 

The “narrow beam” is actually quite normal considering the fineness of the needle and nozzle combination.

 

There are plenty of other airbrushes that are far more suitable for model spraying, and far easier to clean without damaging the parts.

 

Sorry to be a wet blanket. ;)

 

David

 

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2 hours ago, Kylestrome said:

While I admire your willingness to try this out, and your perseverance, I can’t help thinking that this is not the ideal airbrush for spraying ‘model paints’, especially acrylics which dry out very quickly in the airbrush.

 

The “narrow beam” is actually quite normal considering the fineness of the needle and nozzle combination.

 

There are plenty of other airbrushes that are far more suitable for model spraying, and far easier to clean without damaging the parts.

 

Sorry to be a wet blanket. ;)

 

David

 

Ok I'm happy with that opinion. I'm now looking at the iwata neo

Edited by ikcdab
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