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Hunt Coupling System


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Purchased a load of packs last week, including the new Mk3SD couplings. Arrived yesterday and fitted today. Absolutely LOVE them! So so easy to fit. And they work so well. Just a case of getting various length ones and seeing which loco/coaches prefer them.

 

Bravo WHWW!

 

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An interesting system and I am considering purchases for my fixed rakes and for ease of putting stock on and taking off my layout.  But I have a couple of questions.

 

How do the couplings work on tight radii (2nd and 3rd), Existing NEM tension hook couplings have 2 points of flex; the hooks which can slide side to side and at the NEM pocket fishtail fixing point.  Looking at the Hunt magnetic coupling mechanism, I can only see one point of flex and this within the NEM fishtail.

 

So do you lose some of the lateral flexibility a tension hook offers when rolling stock goes round a corner or traverses point switches?  Does the coupling stiffen the connection between two item of rolling stock, is there a risk it can cause light weight items to jump the rails?

 

Thanks

Edited by Jaggzuk
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Hi 

Fitted  the non NEM option to a 4 coach emu ,  This means  fitting corridor connections is ok as no issues with coupling up as the magnets give auto line up fine on 2nd and 3rd rad , also happy on 9" pointwork in fiddle yard.   Corridor connections removed as the reduced gap makes them too stiff - need to modify a bit , but stock looks better. 

looking forward to NEM getting back in stock.  It is funny that the Dapol 220/221 has an earlier iteration of this idea.   

Robert      

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You do lose some 'flex' between stock when going around curves however I've seen no issues on the stock I've fitted these to so far. This includes pulling and propelling through standard Peco medium pointwork and second and third radius curves.

 

The trick is to choose the length of coupling to suit the stock your fitting it to. So for Bachmann Mk1's and other stock with cam couplings that move out on the corners you can fit a shorter coupling. (the 'Close' coupling mentioned on the WHWG website). For fixed stock like HST's the coupling bar and therefore the gap between the coaches is longer however this gives them room to move on the corners without clashing.

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Various packs arrived and I had a play fitting them, overall good results, but a few issues too. 

 

The best version by far is the Pullman Stepped which I actually fitted to Bachmann Mk1 and Mk2 coaching.  Wow, what a difference. I now have touching corridor ends on plain line, but they can still navigate 2nd radius curves and medium radius points and ladders.  Very impressed!  My only minor observation is that the A/B marker is on the topside not the bottom, so cannot be seen once the couplings are inserted. Therefore you cannot tell which magnets will couple up/oppose each other pole wise.

 

IMG_1865.JPG.ba557b00f3bded4b82ab91ec89756eee.JPG

Hunt Pullman Stepped Coupling fitted to a pair of Bachmann MK1

 

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Hunt Pullman Stepped Coupling

 

The Standard NEM socket version, I fitted to all my container flats (from various manufactures) and overall they are a success and way better than the various Tension Hooks.  The only issue I found is that the various NEM pocket types appears to vary in dimension.  So Hunt couplings went in fairly easily (Hornby NEM) whereas with other wagons (Bachmann NEM) required quite a bit of force to get the couplings in.  On comparing the Hunt to a standard Tension Hook, the geometry of the Hunt’s legs which go into the pocket appear a lot more chunky and there is less fineness with the legs, end bobbles and the gap between the legs.  I found I had to file the gap between the legs and put a small chamfer on the end bobble to get some of them in.

 

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View showing the chuncky nature and narrow leg gap of the Hunt coupling NEM legs

 

I also found that the length of the Hunt Standard to be on average 2mm longer than most of the Tension Hooks (TH) it replaced.  The Hunt Standard measured 12.8 from magnet face to NEM pocket front, whereas TH varied from 10.2 to 10.8 - measured from NEM pocket front to the edge of curved hook beam.  But obviously, when two TH are coupled together and under tension the NEM to NEM distance increased to 30.6, which equates to a 15.3 fixed distance.  So the Hunt dimension appears to have been placed half way between the two TH distances.

 

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The max under tension NEM to NEM distance  

 

 

I might investigate the Close Couple version to see if they are better,

 

My only other observation is the plastic appears to vary.  On the Pullman Stepped it is nice and hard, whereas on the Standard NEM is appears to be a lot softer and a lot more flexible.  This soft plastic has caused and issue with legs deforming when pushing in to tight NEM pockets.

 

Overall I am very impressed and am a convert, certainly for the Mk1 & 2s which already have the auto close coupling feature which works very well with the Hunt Coupling.

 

I will try other close coupling versions when they are next in stock.

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Hi @Westhillwagonworks I'm slowly converting all of my rolling stock over to these couplings as in my humble opinion they are superb and well worth selling a kidney to fund!

One suggestion, whilst it will be a bit of a pain to put together, would it be possible to publish some sort of overview of what coupling are recommended for what rolling stock - obviously the majority will be either standard or close but it would be helpful to know and would help immensly with ordering.

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Some further update on my mods using Hunt Couplings.

 

Using the Screw Coupling version, which is a "T" bar type used for replacing the large metal D tension hooks.  I used them on Hornby Railroad Pullmans.

The hole left in the bogie once the D bar rivet has been removed needed a large self tap screw to secure the coupling.  A bolt might have been better as there is a risk of cracking the coupling with a coarse self tapping screw.

 

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Next was a rake of Hornby Teaks.  This time I cut off the NEM legs and then drilled a 1.0mm hole and used a 1.15mm screw to secure to the bogie.  To get the Hunt Coupling at the same level as a NEM version, I needed a 0.5mm shim.  A Screw T Bar would not work as this I woudl have had to cut a lot of plastic from underneath the bogie.

 

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My final version was for Bachmann BDA Bogie Bolster.  When I was drilling the hole for the Teak conversion, I manage to snap several couplings leaving me with about 12mm (warning the plastic will snap if too much force is applied during drilling or cutting).  Rather than bin them, I wondered if I filed the sides of the coupling they could just be pushed in to a NEM pocket, and yes this worked.  A dab of superglue secured.  In doing this meant that I can get the best fit close coupling for each type of wagon, as the dimension from NEM to buffer varies. 

 

A spot of dark  brown paint will help to subdue the coupling plastic.

 

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Before buffer to buffer 8.3mm

 

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After buffer to buffer 5.3

 

797435529_IMG_1899-Copy.JPG.2e92dfcd9fcfd44d4b4227098482b0ee.JPGMy tightest curve is 2nd radius. A 0.5mm gap on the inside buffers

 

 

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22 hours ago, Mooresby said:

Hi @Westhillwagonworks I'm slowly converting all of my rolling stock over to these couplings as in my humble opinion they are superb and well worth selling a kidney to fund!

One suggestion, whilst it will be a bit of a pain to put together, would it be possible to publish some sort of overview of what coupling are recommended for what rolling stock - obviously the majority will be either standard or close but it would be helpful to know and would help immensly with ordering.

 

I agree that would be useful as would the dimensions of the different types.  I recently converted my Lima Grainflow wagons to a NEM socket using a conversion I got on eBay.  As I didn't have Hunt Couplings at the time I put tension hooks in them and found when pulled the gap was even wider (hard to  believe I know) than the original Lima hooks.  Before buying Hunt Couplings it would be good to know how close the different variations would bring them.   

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lima-NEM-Coupling-Converter-Sample-1x-4-pockets-/202772112519

 

My Hornby non NEM fitted Mk3s dont like small radius Peco points.  I have three on the non scenic section and while I can get rid of two of them removing the third would be a big pain.  I've over come this by fitting one 2mm thick circular magnets between the Hunt Couplings which gives enough clearance.  I will try 1mm versions  which should be ok.

 

Final thoughts for now, as I like to run my HST with the powered power car leading and as I change power cars to alternate the livery I would have prefered the power car coupling to be the same type of magnet and the outmost TGS and TF the be the same type of magnet with opposite polarity to the power cars.  I see they are now selling pairs of power car couplings on there own which is helpful but assume they are different polarities.  Packs of the same polarity power car couplings and a spare alternative coach one would be brilliant. That way your outer coaches could all be A for example and the power car and dummy could be Bs.

 

That said on my first pack a few magnets fell out of the sockets, I am now kicking myself for super glueing them in so quickly as I could have turn two round to achieve both power cars having the same polarity.

 

Edited by Waverley47708
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Waverley47708, what I know is this, given I asked the same question on dimesnsions.

 

The dimension from the face of the magnet to the NEM pocket front are: 

 

Ultra Close: 7.85mm

Close: 9.67mm

Standard: 12.65mm

 

From my own measurements (+-0.05mm) of the ones I have also bought :

 

Plumman: 10.5mm

Screw: 11.0mm (face of magnet to center of screw hole)

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8 hours ago, Jaggzuk said:

Waverley47708, what I know is this, given I asked the same question on dimesnsions.

 

The dimension from the face of the magnet to the NEM pocket front are: 

 

Ultra Close: 7.85mm

Close: 9.67mm

Standard: 12.65mm

 

From my own measurements (+-0.05mm) of the ones I have also bought :

 

Plumman: 10.5mm

Screw: 11.0mm (face of magnet to center of screw hole)

 

Thanks for that, much appreciated. 

 

My Bachmann Mk2a rakes tend to run in fixed formation so have got the Bachmann fixed connections for them for the time being. 

 

For the Bachmann Mk1 coaches they tend to get mixed around more so the Hunt Couplings would be ideal for them.  I am keen to get the right size (as close as possible without derailing) given I have a few small radius curved point in the fidle yard etc I need to be careful.  The sizes will also help regarding the Lima wagons.  

 

I think the Bachmann fixed  connection seems to draw the Mk2a coaches closer than the Mk1s. The TPO Mk1s are definitely further apart than the other Mk1s, TSOs etc with my Bachmann fixed couplings.  The TPOs and the Lima may benefit from the ultra close whilst the other Mk may benefit from the close version.

 

Anyone got a cunning plan for Lima Mk3s yet?   I'm still toying with removing the metal coupling hook and adding a magnet to the coupling bar.  Either cutting a slot in the bar and adding a 3mm square magnet or gluing a thin disc one to the outside of the bar.  When the bars touch they are ok (477 pushing ScotRail set), it is only when being pulled they look far too wide. I could modify the bogie to take a Hunt coupling version but would rather not do something terminal to the Lima bogies.  I could fit NEM sockets somehow and add Hunt Couplings.  If it didn't work out I could then fit a std NEM coupling hook.

 

 

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I have noticed recently in the model press, YouTube, etc, an upsurge in interest in magnetic coupling systems. One in particular caught my attention, the REE XB series which is manufactured in France. The problem with some others is the use of single magnets fixed to a shaft which terminates in a NEM connector. With this system, there is a need to have opposite polarity at each end of the vehicles, which means the vehicles can only operate in one orientation. The REE type uses twin opposing pairs of magnets (which are also able to provide a two pole electrical connection between vehicles). Provided the magnet pairs are always fitted the same way round, they will always couple, whatever the lengthwise orientation of the vehicles.

 

I wanted a system which would ideally still allow conventional couplings (including 3 link) to operate. I proposed using pairs of magnets separated by a distance either side of the standard centrally mounted coupling. I also wanted the couplings to be ‘disguised’ as part of the inter-vehicle connecting pipes, something I did with a fixed rake 3 car DMU, but using 1mm electrical plugs and sockets. I came up with the idea of using bronze wound guitar strings as a flexible but stable support for the magnets. As an experiment I used 2mm diameter by 1mm length magnets, superglued into a short length of brass tubing which was then crimped over the short length of guitar string. The advantage of crimping rather than soldering is that the string can be screwed and unscrewed, as the windings form a right hand screw thread. The string is then bent to 90 degrees in a gentle curve to represent vacuum or air pipes. This end can then be screwed into a suitable hole under the vehicle. I found that on most coaches, the bogie frame is of sufficient thickness to accept a 1.4mm drill for the .056 inch guitar string.

 

Initial results are encouraging. I am hoping that the 1mm thick magnets will be sufficiently strong, however it is always possible to fit thicker or stronger magnets if need be. I might try using slightly thinner guitar strings if I feel I need more flexibility in the coupling. The ones I used are about the thickest normally used for acoustic guitar (medium gauge phosphor bronze).

 

The photos show the couplings fitted to coaches with both tension lock and Kadee couplings.

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An interesting idea Graham and they will look like vacuum pipe when painted black.  I can see that this does solve the issue of single polarity magnets, but how do these coaches go round corners, as you have basically fixed the bogies in to a rigid format between each coach?

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I was hoping that there would be enough flexibility in the couplings. However, although I don't have many sharp curves, I am doubtful about this. I am working on producing a more flexible connection method, hopefully by using thinner wire and having a loop in it to increase movement without too much stress. I will post updates as I progress!

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