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LMS D1927 3 plank scratchbuild in 7mm - DONE!


Guest WM183
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7 hours ago, WM183 said:

It does,  yes. I will use LMS pattern vac hoses I think, if I can get a good match.

Keep us posted please as I need some too!

 

Nearest I can find is these but by the time I've cleaned them up and probably replaced the hose, might as well scratch them.

 

https://www.crtkits.co.uk/product.php/395806/

Edited by Hal Nail
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3 hours ago, Marshall5 said:

Hi John,

Actually I did mention it in my post on 28th Feb (p2 of this thread) and gave their contact details which, AFAIK, are still correct.  He doesn't have a website.  Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ray.

Thanks Ray, yes I got it.  Shame some of these suppliers don't make it easier to find them.

 

John

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Although the same diagram, that's the unfitted version with different springs and brakes - a proper railway would give them different numbers!

 

I prefer Amanda's model - captures the solid look of the things better!

 

 

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Well, the W irons are Slaters, but I did make the yokes and links.  Also note the vacuum pipe connected to the cylinder.

 

If you used Slaters wheels these are next to impossible to remove without damaging something.  I don't worry about getting 'em out.

 

It's one of two kits I was given that are quite old.  I almost didn't build them.  You can see details in the thread link below.  If you think that underframe is complex, you should see the MCV I made.

 

John

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I usually paint the wheels first and try to leave these off until the last minute.  It doesn't always work depending on the kit.

 

In the model above, the axle boxes are free to move out of the slot so I can check brake clearances.  Springs and keeper went in/on last.

 

I find it useful, when I start a kit, to think about how I'm going to paint it.  Some underframes, such as those with clasp brakes can get very crowded around the links making it difficult to get a brush in after all is done.  So before getting too far, I paint around the area while trying not to paint those places where things need to be glued.

 

Experience helps and you learn.

 

I think everyone develops their own way of building/painting a kit.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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I never take wheels out unless absolutely vital. I cut a few slots in a piece of card and slide it behind the w irons when spraying the body and then just hand paint the underframe after.

 

I've read that IPA cleans treads in no time anyway though.

 

Edit: agree with John's point about developing your own way. I actually quite enjoy painting an underframe as a mindless job whereas masking it and spraying was irritating!

Edited by Hal Nail
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Hal, you are so right about masking, a horrible job.  I usually mask the body from the underframe, so I can spray black (no wheels if I can help it).  Then, I mask the underframe from the body so I can spray the undercoat/primer.  I also leave off the buffers and couplings until after paint which makes masking a bit easier.  I can get away with brush painting the body using acrylics. 

 

John

Edited by brossard
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  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Darryl Tooley said:

That is a very tidy piece of work indeed; it seems almost churlish to point out that there should really be a reversing cam at the brake lever fulcrum this side.

 

D

Darryl

 

I’d want to know. When your really close to something and maybe concentrating on something else it’s easy to miss such things. 

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