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kevo

proto 1000 locos

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Hi i recently brought two second hand locos of E bay both are proto 1000 locos  a GP9 and a RS3 alco. both would not run at all only after re adress ing one did i get it to go  the other is a total loss  when placed on my program ing track one end has the lights on but woint seem to accept any new adress it dus jolt when program ing but still nothing any ideas what i can try  please . i have a piko digi 1. system  but also a NCE  POWER cab i am a bit of a beginner with DCC so please bare with me .thanks .

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IIRC Proto 1000 requires wired decoders. Take the bodies off and check all the wires are properly connected and the decoder is insulated from the frame. You might need to get some Kapton tape to ensure proper insulation. Make a note of the decoder make and model, then do a decoder reset.

 

Cheers

David

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Hi thanks david i did  take the bodyshel of last nite to check for loose wires didnt see any think . but i will try re insulate ing decoder again . they are deferent to most 8 pin decoders i have seen before in that there in reverse to the likes of Bachmann and atlas 8 pin   . i have got really cheesed off with this  they were both brought off two  different seller's on Ebay and in CP rail which seems a bit reare in some classes of loco to get here in  the uk . i didnt want to return them etc and they were not drop dead cheap as well . sorry about the rant . cheers kevin 

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If you can post a photo of the decoder showing any markings it might narrow down any quirks.

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If they are original P1k circuit boards they need to have 2 traces on the board cut. marked with an X.

I have a feeling the previous owner may have soldered in an 8 pin connector but got it wrong. Been there bought that before. I've got several of these old locos. My solution was to rip out the light board and replace all the lighting with LEDs and install Loksound decoders. Not a cheap solution but they run beautifully. 

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1 hour ago, AndrewC said:

If they are original P1k circuit boards they need to have 2 traces on the board cut. marked with an X.

I have a feeling the previous owner may have soldered in an 8 pin connector but got it wrong. Been there bought that before. I've got several of these old locos. My solution was to rip out the light board and replace all the lighting with LEDs and install Loksound decoders. Not a cheap solution but they run beautifully. 

 

I know what you mean. About 10 years ago I wired a TCS decoder into a Proto 1000 RDC, including replacing the grain of wheat bulbs with yellow LEDs (which, by the way, give a fantastic representation of the iconic RDC "golden glow" headlight"). Not one of the easier conversions and took about half a day.

 

Cheers
David

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Hi David thanks for for helping  i hope the pics might show the type of decoder . i have been scouring through endless U tube vids trying to reset to factory settings one min i think i made a bit of progress then it falls flat nothing i did at one stage to get the loco lights to change direction and thats about it  trouble is each vid tells you some thing different ime getting really confused . may be your right and i should think about change ing the whole decoder . i have a few years a go hard wired a decoder in a Bachmann ge 7o ton switcher but think i would have to get some one to do this job for me on this loco . 

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It looks like an early NCE P2KSR from about 2003.

 

P2KSR.png.77755743147a9fdce02af70dc7baf484.png

 

If you can read CV8 and the ID is 11, then it's NCE. If you then set CV30 = 2 it will do a factory reset.

 

I would suggest getting the NCE USB Interface to use with your PowerCab and installing JMRI DecoderPro (free) on your computer. It makes tweaking the CVs a lot easier.

 

Cheers

David

Edited by DavidB-AU

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I'm with Dave. That is an 18 year old NCE plug and pray model. Your loco looks as if they've stripped out the original circuit board and hardwired everything to an 8 pin socket that is plugged into the decoder. Those NCE decoders were notoriously bad. Most of the issues were around the output functions but programming them could be problematic. I had to use the higher current of a PR3 to get them to take and save cv settings. 

 I've still got a couple of them but will toss them in the bin when I get around to upgrading the locos to sound.

 

You should be able to just swap it out for any decoder with an 8 pin plug on it and repurpose the existing wired up socket. If you are going to do that, may I also suggest replacing the lights with LEDs. 

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Thanks thats good to know what i am dealing with . i have spent hrs  last nite whatch ing  y tube pressing butttons etc and went to bed with smoke comeing out my ears . any way i finished early from work and just had another go at re setting and blow me i have got it going . big grins . so thanks for  all the tips dave and andrew i think i will replace mine later with a sound decode . i will probly  have another try and make sure i can do it again reset wise .  as i am terrible at follow ing  instructions . one thing i need to sort is the speed steps ! as it will only just start to move on about 17 on the speed dial  and its a bit noisey  running in one direction 

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just putt the bodyshell back on on placed it on my old layout i best try and sort those speed steps out now

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One other thing to note with the old P1k locos. If they are getting noisy, look at the gears. They have a habit of cracking. If this has happened you can replace them with Athearn gears. You may want to add some lubricant if the drive has dried out over the years. Most of the P1k stuff is around 20 years old now.  Labelle 106 teflon "grease" is what you need. Basically it is the same white goo that nearly every new loco is shipped with these days. I picked up a used GP9 a few years ago. It sounded like a coffee grinder. A bit of TLC and some 106 and now it is quiet and a good runner. 

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Kevo.

 

You may find this of help. I have recently found on the web, ordered two and fitted one into a Proto 1000 F3, an excellent Motherboard from https://nixtrainz.com/ I plan to then fit an ESU 5 sound decoder then add some extra detail to the body. I found this an easy install allowing the owner to choose from any number of decoders.  Two or three chips should only cost about $15.00 from the US and Nick will/can send Paypal invoices. I have a Proto 2000 GP7 with sound by QSI which seems to be very poorly and I am thinking that will be my next project using these boards and an ESU 5 chip.

 

I have no connections with this business other than as a satisfied customer.

 

Happy Model Railroading.

 

James.

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Thanks dave thats a good way of describe ing the noise from mine . thats one thing when buyeing  2nd hand locos to take in to account unless you know the history of the loco and age etc its a gamble you just doint know . like have they may have been used at expo's if so they could have been to the moon and back mileage wise .  i will get some grease and see if that inproves its running . kevin 

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Hi James  thats brillint link  you putt on there really handy . i shall be browse ing through all of that . i am not blessed with much DCC Know how but i can follow step by step youtube vids . and even if you doint undersand  it all i think you do get a hell of a lot of satifaction from have ing   a bash at it your self . i do think that if or when i get round to replace ing the decoders in both the GP 9 and THE RS3  i would like to try  for sound ones . its getting good advice on which ones to go for and will they fit  . i have come unstuck with that before . cheers kevin 

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Here is the RS3 i have been talking about .

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Thanks Dave  for pointing that out . i am a bit new when it comes to american  loco types as only started a couple years a go . i have just looked at the box it came in yr dead right its a RS2  how i missed that i doint know .

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