A Venture Into The Unknown - Elegoo Mars 3D Resin Printer

[55020]

Hi Mark,  I can't add anything regarding the warping and it is quite frustrating when it happens.  I'm guessing you printed the interior inverted?  Sometimes printing at an angle can make a difference, but the supports then become more critical.

Talking supports, I find that Prusaslicer offers the best auto-support and auto orientation options.  Better still it's free.  Just set up the software with a "Prusa SL1" printer.

 

Import the model into Prusaslicer, right click and select Optomize Orientation. Then click on supports icon and set to 75% then apply. I look quickly to see if it needs more which it rarely does. Then export stl with supports. Open in chitubox and slice and print.  Just make sure you export from Prusaslicer with supports

Edited April 21, 2020 by 55020

[Ark Royal]

7 minutes ago, 55020 said:

Hi Mark,  I can't add anything regarding the warping and it is quite frustrating when it happens.  I'm guessing you printed the interior inverted?  Sometimes printing at an angle can make a difference, but the supports then become more critical.

Talking supports, I find that Prusaslicer offers the best auto-support and auto orientation options.  Better still it's free.  Just set up the software with a "Prusa SL1" printer.

 

Import the model into Prusaslicer, right click and select Optomize Orientation. Then click on supports icon and set to 75% then apply. I look quickly to see if it needs more which it rarely does. Then export stl with supports. Open in chitubox and slice and print.  Just make sure you export from Prusaslicer with supports

 

Thanks 55020

 

i tried Prusa as stated earlier but didnt invest much time in it. This is my mission today 

Edited April 21, 2020 by Ark Royal

[Ark Royal]

9 hours ago, MikeTrice said:

Sometimes it is difficult to totally eradicate warping. Warping can often be resolved by immersing the moulding in very hot (not boiling) water and tweaking (carefully) with your fingers. Sometimes just pouring a recently boiled kettle over the model is enough to relieve the strains.

 

Another option, assuming the warping occurs after separation from the supports, is to leave the supports in place until the model is well cured.

 

Hi Mike,

 

The warping did occur after separation from the supports. I left the model 5 days in the sunlight before seperation and thought that this was long enough being that it is 2mm thick at the base. Maybe this was not enough time ?

 

So i tried the Hot water idea.

 

Not much too grab hold of here other than something that's going to break but......

 

 

 

Mike to the rescue again  

 

Thankyou.

 

Mark

 

[FoxUnpopuli]

On 20/03/2020 at 20:41, FoxUnpopuli said:

Hello @Ark Royal, I model in OO.  These centres are 'caps' which fit over the metal Bachmann wheel.  I have received the items today, they need cleaning up fully, but popped one in the wheel upsidedown - it's a perfect fit.  I'm very pleased.

They have some shape in them, they should be a very snug fit over the wheel, and i will dab them in with a spot of cyano gel, or maybe epoxy.

 

I used epoxy to bond the caps onto the wheels, replacing the deformed Bachmann originals.  There was some rivet detail, but I didn't make it butch enough.  

 

This early Replica/Bachmann B1 had split axletube syndrome, so it was repaired with new axles, similarly using epoxy to bond them in at 14.5mm back-to-back.  A very quick splat of black acrylic over the wheels, and the result isn't half bad.

 

These prototypes are good, but the next generation will have a very slightly smaller diameter, less ambition on the form of the spokes with a bit more thickness and depth to make a sturdier and easier to fit piece.

 

I am very pleased.

Edited May 3, 2020 by FoxUnpopuli

[Moria15]

Hi Mark.

 

Thanks so much for both the thread and the pointers included in the various posts.  I have in the past used a filament printer and been very dissapointed as i work in N gauge.  These new resin printers seem to offer hope finally.  The biggest issue I have had is my "local authority" planning permission regarding smell of resin, but I noticed with eagerness that in June Elegoo are releasing the pro version of their printer which includes a carbon filter for removal of smell, and finally this has achieved conditional support.

 

I am a fan of Elegoo as a company as I have used many of thir parts for the Arduino based DCC stationary decoders that I have made, so appreciate the company and it's ethos.

 

Again thank you and I look forward to joining you in the use of one later in the year.  In the meantime, plenty of time to practice with Fusion and other things you have mentioned.

 

Regards

 

Graham

[njee20]

My standard Mars smells noticeably less than my Photon, so I'd have high hopes for the Mars Pro.

[FoxUnpopuli]

Interesting.  The question is, I've waited this long, can I wait another month?  Also, it seems demand might be high and supply patchy, if the US reviews are anythng to believe.

[chrisveitch]

On 07/05/2020 at 09:35, njee20 said:

My standard Mars smells noticeably less than my Photon, so I'd have high hopes for the Mars Pro.

 

On 06/05/2020 at 19:54, Moria15 said:

The biggest issue I have had is my "local authority" planning permission regarding smell of resin, but I noticed with eagerness that in June Elegoo are releasing the pro version of their printer which includes a carbon filter for removal of smell, and finally this has achieved conditional support.

 

 

I've just tried my first print - the test sample file - on my Mars and have to say that I was concerned about the smell of the resin but it was negligible. I'm using this Elegoo grey resin, BTW. It was in a reasonably large room with an open window and the spray booth next to it switched on (discharging via trunking to an outside vent), but there was little sign of any odour. 

 

On a different note, does anyone have a recommended technique for cleaning the resin VAT and bottom film after a print? I was very alarmed after finishing my first print to find that it the bottom was covered with a film of cured resin which really didn't want to come off. A little gentle coaxing with a blunt fingernail eventually got most of it off in one sheet, but surely that's not the best way. I've seen a couple of videos (one being an Elegoo official one) which recommend using the plastic scraper supplied - and many other comments to say that it's not advisable, will scratch the film and just don't do it. 

 

Edited May 10, 2020 by chrisveitch

[55020]

1 hour ago, chrisveitch said:

 

 

I've just tried my first print - the test sample file - on my Mars and have to say that I was concerned about the smell of the resin but it was negligible. I'm using this Elegoo grey resin, BTW. It was in a reasonably large room with an open window and the spray booth next to it switched on (discharging via trunking to an outside vent), but there was little sign of any odour. 

 

On a different note, does anyone have a recommended technique for cleaning the resin VAT and bottom film after a print? I was very alarmed after finishing my first print to find that it the bottom was covered with a film of cured resin which really didn't want to come off. A little gentle coaxing with a blunt fingernail eventually got most of it off in one sheet, but surely that's not the best way. I've seen a couple of videos (one being an Elegy official one) which recommend using the plastic scraper supplied - and many other comments to say that it's not advisable, will scratch the film and just don't do it. 

 

 

I've never found the smell an issue.  Sure, it has an odour but nothing that I would call overpowering or objectionable.  The same goes for IPA, which American's seem to complain about.  I can only assume that in the US they add something to IPA, as to me it just smells like any other pure alcohol.

 

As for cured resin being left on the FEP, that doesn't sound right.  I've never had resin left in the vat, so cleaning was easy in that I just wiped it clean after pouring out (and filtering) the unused resin.  BTW, leaving scratches on the FEP doesn't cause any harm, holes are what you need to avoid.

[njee20]

Yeah there shouldn’t be cured resin at the bottom of the vat Unless you’ve had a print failure. That’s not right. 

[monkeysarefun]

5 hours ago, chrisveitch said:

On a different note, does anyone have a recommended technique for cleaning the resin VAT and bottom film after a print? I was very alarmed after finishing my first print to find that it the bottom was covered with a film of cured resin which really didn't want to come off. A little gentle coaxing with a blunt fingernail eventually got most of it off in one sheet, but surely that's not the best way. I've seen a couple of videos (one being an Elegy official one) which recommend using the plastic scraper supplied - and many other comments to say that it's not advisable, will scratch the film and just don't do it. 

 

I've had it once or twice (the thin cured resin layer on the bottom of the vat thing.)  Not sure whats caused it and its only a rare thing so I was thinking atmospheric conditions or something.  Some users on the photon facebook group reported it was due to a firmware issue which was fixed when they upgraded.

 

I used to diligently clean my vat out after each print but now unless I know I wont be printing for a while or I've had a failed print I just slip a pillowcase over the printer with the vat filled with resin still in place. It won't cure or go off unless the sun  gets to it. When ready to print again, I just give it  a thorough swish with a spatula (see below) to mix it up again. Cleaning the vat each time just generates large amounts of waste to get rid of.

 

To remove stuck resin from the FEP, I press the FEP from the underneath around where the stuck piece is, The FEP should flex enough that  a corner of the stuck resin lifts so that you can get a fingernail under and pick it off.

 

Finally I only use microfibre cloths to wipe out the vat, not paper towels and definitely not the plastic scraper. I have one of those soft silicone rubber cake spatulas from a 2 dollar shop that I use to scrape out the last bits of resin  when pouring the unused resin back into the bottle .

Edited May 9, 2020 by monkeysarefun

[Ark Royal]

On 03/05/2020 at 19:48, FoxUnpopuli said:

 

I used epoxy to bond the caps onto the wheels, replacing the deformed Bachmann originals.  There was some rivet detail, but I didn't make it butch enough.  

 

This early Replica/Bachmann B1 had split axletube syndrome, so it was repaired with new axles, similarly using epoxy to bond them in at 14.5mm back-to-back.  A very quick splat of black acrylic over the wheels, and the result isn't half bad.

 

These prototypes are good, but the next generation will have a very slightly smaller diameter, less ambition on the form of the spokes with a bit more thickness and depth to make a sturdier and easier to fit piece.

 

I am very pleased.

 

 

I have to say these and indeed the concept have turned out very well.

 

Given the other alternative methods and the cost involved to achieve the same result i think that this is one area where 3D printing comes into its own.

 

Well Done !

[Ark Royal]

On 06/05/2020 at 19:54, Moria15 said:

Hi Mark.

 

Thanks so much for both the thread and the pointers included in the various posts.  I have in the past used a filament printer and been very dissapointed as i work in N gauge.  These new resin printers seem to offer hope finally.  The biggest issue I have had is my "local authority" planning permission regarding smell of resin, but I noticed with eagerness that in June Elegoo are releasing the pro version of their printer which includes a carbon filter for removal of smell, and finally this has achieved conditional support.

 

 

Hi  Moria 15 and Welcome,

 

I'm sure that a filter will make some difference but tbh i can't smell my resin but i may be immune to it . 

 

On 06/05/2020 at 19:54, Moria15 said:

Again thank you and I look forward to joining you in the use of one later in the year.  In the meantime, plenty of time to practice with Fusion and other things you have mentioned.

 

Regards

 

Graham

 

We wait in anticipation with your prints when you finally make the purchase.

Given the situation with the world at present your probably wise to wait as costs have increased dramatically with certain consumable items. 

Like you say time to learn and get familiar with a 3d CAD package.

Good Luck 

 

Mark

Edited May 11, 2020 by Ark Royal

[Ark Royal]

12 hours ago, chrisveitch said:

 

 

I've just tried my first print - the test sample file - on my Mars and have to say that I was concerned about the smell of the resin but it was negligible. I'm using this Elegoo grey resin, BTW. It was in a reasonably large room with an open window and the spray booth next to it switched on (discharging via trunking to an outside vent), but there was little sign of any odour. 

 

On a different note, does anyone have a recommended technique for cleaning the resin VAT and bottom film after a print? I was very alarmed after finishing my first print to find that it the bottom was covered with a film of cured resin which really didn't want to come off. A little gentle coaxing with a blunt fingernail eventually got most of it off in one sheet, but surely that's not the best way. I've seen a couple of videos (one being an Elegy official one) which recommend using the plastic scraper supplied - and many other comments to say that it's not advisable, will scratch the film and just don't do it. 

 

 

Hi and welcome chrisveith,

 

I can't really add anything that hasn't been posted in response to your post other than i haven't had the issue of cured resin on the FEP sheet other than when i have had a faile print and it came off easily.

 

Obviously if there is a large amount of cured resin on the FEP sheet it would suggest that at some point during the print the entire screen has had to be illuminated. As it didn't want to come off it would suggest that this has happened over several layers and not just one or two.

 

Does the slicer software show this to be happening ?

 

Fingers crossed for your next print.

 

Mark

[Ark Royal]

On 07/05/2020 at 11:23, FoxUnpopuli said:

Interesting.  The question is, I've waited this long, can I wait another month?  Also, it seems demand might be high and supply patchy, if the US reviews are anythng to believe.

 

You role the dice, you pay your money.

 

If it were me i'd probably wait give the situation at the moment. I'm sure supplies will stabilise fairly swiftly, unless ofcourse i had to put every other project on hold until this purchase was made.

 

Mark

[chrisveitch]

13 hours ago, 55020 said:

As for cured resin being left on the FEP, that doesn't sound right.  I've never had resin left in the vat, so cleaning was easy in that I just wiped it clean after pouring out (and filtering) the unused resin.  BTW, leaving scratches on the FEP doesn't cause any harm, holes are what you need to avoid.

 

8 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

 

I've had it once or twice (the thin cured resin layer on the bottom of the vat thing.)  Not sure whats caused it and its only a rare thing so I was thinking atmospheric conditions or something.  Some users on the photon facebook group reported it was due to a firmware issue which was fixed when they upgraded.

 

I used to diligently clean my vat out after each print but now unless I know I wont be printing for a while or I've had a failed print I just slip a pillowcase over the printer with the vat filled with resin still in place. It won't cure or go off unless the sun  gets to it. When ready to print again, I just give it  a thorough swish with a spatula (see below) to mix it up again. Cleaning the vat each time just generates large amounts of waste to get rid of.

 

To remove stuck resin from the FEP, I press the FEP from the underneath around where the stuck piece is, The FEP should flex enough that  a corner of the stuck resin lifts so that you can get a fingernail under and pick it off.

 

Finally I only use microfibre cloths to wipe out the vat, not paper towels and definitely not the plastic scraper. I have one of those soft silicone rubber cake spatulas from a 2 dollar shop that I use to scrape out the last bits of resin  when pouring the unused resin back into the bottle .

 

1 hour ago, Ark Royal said:

Obviously if there is a large amount of cured resin on the FEP sheet it would suggest that at some point during the print the entire screen has had to be illuminated. As it didn't want to come off it would suggest that this has happened over several layers and not just one or two.

 

Does the slicer software show this to be happening ?

 

Fingers crossed for your next print.

 

Mark

 

Thanks for the helpful comments guys - I really didn't expect anything back as quickly as that. 

 

No, there's nothing in the slicer to indicate full illumination of the screen. I'm starting to think that it might be my inexperience and tardy cleaning of the vat - I was quite nervous about my first print and for some reason concentrated on cleaning down the build plate first rather than the vat, and I suspect the vat's been subject to sunlight after I've poured off the bulk of the resin (it was a very warm as sunny day here at the time) and the this may have cured the film that was left. 

 

I'll be trying another print today and hopefully get my ducks in a more orderly row this time. 

 

One more question - my Mars toolkit included a black plastic fitting which looks like some sort of bracket and which has a spigot which takes the build plate and a rectangular hole at 45 degrees to the build plate fitting. It doesn't appear anywhere in the instructions. What is it?

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Edited May 10, 2020 by chrisveitch

[55020]

1 hour ago, chrisveitch said:

One more question - my Mars toolkit included a black plastic fitting which looks like some sort of bracket and which has a spigot which takes the build plate and a rectangular hole at 45 degrees to the build plate fitting. It doesn't appear anywhere in the instructions. What is it?

 

It is a bracket.  The idea being once your print has finished you can remove the build plate, attach it into the black bracket and then place the bracket and build plate back onto the printer.  The build plate and printed object, now at 45 degrees, can drain/drip excess resin into the vat.

 

 

 

Steve

[Ark Royal]

11 hours ago, chrisveitch said:

 

One more question - my Mars toolkit included a black plastic fitting which looks like some sort of bracket and which has a spigot which takes the build plate and a rectangular hole at 45 degrees to the build plate fitting. It doesn't appear anywhere in the instructions. What is it?

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

As i literally have just finished a print.... complete with resin drips .lol

 

 

Word of Warning : Get in the habit of removing this bracket from the build plate once you have seperated the 3D print from the plate before you remount it. I have had 2 close calls where i have set the printer doing another print job and not removed the drain bracket.  

 

As the lower limit stop is set by the travel distance of the build arm bracket down the lead screw if you fail to remove the bracket the consequence will be the build plate at 45 degrees going through the LCD screen before the lead screw reaches the bottom stop !

 

Mark

Edited May 10, 2020 by Ark Royal
Advice Warning

[chrisveitch]

On 10/05/2020 at 07:21, Ark Royal said:

 

Hi and welcome chrisveith,

 

I can't really add anything that hasn't been posted in response to your post other than i haven't had the issue of cured resin on the FEP sheet other than when i have had a faile print and it came off easily.

 

Obviously if there is a large amount of cured resin on the FEP sheet it would suggest that at some point during the print the entire screen has had to be illuminated. As it didn't want to come off it would suggest that this has happened over several layers and not just one or two.

 

Does the slicer software show this to be happening ?

 

Fingers crossed for your next print.

 

Mark

 

Thanks Mark - as noted above, I think this was due to my minor panic during the cleaning process and strong sunlight. 

 

I've completed a second print using your test piece (thanks - very useful!) and all went Ok. The vat cleaned up well with only a few minor watermarks on the film which I assume will be OK - time will tell, I guess..

 

At least Elegoo have acknowledged my request for the free replacement FEP...

 

[Ark Royal]

3 minutes ago, chrisveitch said:

 

At least Elegoo have acknowledged my request for the free replacement FEP...

 

 

Hi Chris

 

I'd be intrigued to find out how you processed your Free FEP Replacement. Mine has never arrived or been acknowledged.

 

Mark

 

[chrisveitch]

16 minutes ago, Ark Royal said:

 

Hi Chris

 

I'd be intrigued to find out how you processed your Free FEP Replacement. Mine has never arrived or been acknowledged.

 

Mark

 

 

I'm not surprised. I took me several goes to get a request to work, seemingly getting a different result each time. I eventually found a link the Elegoo Official FB page in the "Ask Elegoo" section which created a FB Messenger chat requesting a free FEP. When I submitted the pre-populated message it returned with this:

 

Hi friend, thank you for your messages, if you are requiring a free FEP pack, please be sure to like our page first ( https://www.facebook.com/ElegooOfficial/ ), then submit the shipping info at the link below, we will send you the FEP pack for free!

http://bit.ly/2FlUVO5 (US, CA, MX)

http://bit.ly/2XteVcH (EU, JP, AU)

Due to the coronavirus situation sorry that there might be a delay for us to ship out the free package. But we'll arrange the shipment as soon as we can manage it. Thank you!

 

I clicked the EU link and completed the form it offered, and received a FB Messenger response about a day later acknowledging my request with the usual message about COVID-19 delays. Now I have to wait and see.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Ark Royal]

Hi Chris

 

Yes i just found the page also so am in the same boat as you. Lets hope it don't spring a leak.

 

Mark

[55020]

Mine took almost 2 months to arrive, and that was pre-COVID.  So patience is the order of the day.

[Ark Royal]

A Bridge Too Far.

 

I have had to change priorities again as i need to finish the Station Bridge and Footbridge Structure for Eridge.

 

A long long time ago ( in a far off galaxy) when i was just starting out with Fusion 360 i produced a design for the station footbridge. I then plumped to have the front and rear plynths and baggage shute printed by Shapeways in Fine Ultra Detail. Amazed at how they came out and struggling to seperate the staircases from the gallery i then decide to have the entire footbridge printed at considerable expense (about the same cost as my Elegoo Printer)  in the same material. To cut a long story short due to some blip the footbridge and gallery end up being 10mm short on the width.

 

Up to now that is where it has stayed. I have since remodelled the Station Bridge structure to accomodate a better system for the removal and transportation of the Station and its footbridge. As the Station Bridge is nearing completion (at long last!) i thought with the 1st litre of resin nearly gone i'd best print some of the items needed to re-map the footbridge for a mix of 3d printing and metal etching.

 

Here is the Station Footbridge CAD 

 

 

The items i decide to print are the front and rear supporting trestles and the baggage shute.

 

Front Support Trestles

 

These were printed with upside down direct to the build plate with no supports, as the upper beams will be hidden by the footbridge.

 

 

Print Time: 2hr 14min 

Cost: £0.15

Electric Cost:  £0.15

Printed 1st time.

 

Rear Support Trestles

 

These again were printed upside down but i had to add supports. I still haven't got to grips with any package that adds supports. Both Chitubox and Prusa added way to many supports and i find it difficult to accurately add them manually. To that end i added them direct in the 3D package before exporting the STL file.

 

 

The weird flat stips on the RH trestle are actually some of my supports to overcome an angled piece of "wood" that supports the baggage shoot. This was floating in mid air prior to adding these for the print.

 

Sprues Removed

 

Print Time: 5hr 30min 

Cost: £0.43

Electric Cost:  £0.39

Printed 1st time.

 

Baggage Shute

 

Again printed with my own supports as the front leg hangs down. 

 

 

Sprue Removed

 

 

Print Time: 1hr 25min 

Cost: £0.12

Electric Cost:  £0.11

Printed 2nd time - failed layer adhesion on bottom surface when printed at design angle.

 

RH Rear Support Trestle and Baggage Shute

 

Items temporarily combined

 

 

 

If only i had the Elegoo way back when i first started this project....

 

Unfortunately the footbridge and gallery way exceed the build plate max volume even when spit to seperate staircsases and gallery. I think at the time i went to shapeways the unit filled their entire machine

 

I'm pleased with all the results i have had with the 1st bottle of resin, i have had a few failures, learnt a lot along the way , Thanks for everyones help.

The bit i love most about owning a 3D printer is the concept that if you want it you can print it and have it ready to use within a matter of hours, makes life so much easier when building structures etc.

 

Mark 

 

[Ark Royal]

5 hours ago, 55020 said:

Mine took almost 2 months to arrive, and that was pre-COVID.  So patience is the order of the day.

I have just recieved notification that my request has been accepted so i'm in the queue 

 

Clearly wasn't doing it right the 1st time i tried

 

Mark