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Platform Edging Bricks

 

Anyone whom has built there own platforms will know that when it comes to finishing them off it becomes a bit difficult or tedious. To my knowledge there are no products out there to replicate brick edging. This means you either forget it, imitate it with paint or if you're a sadist scribe plastikard to produce the desired effect.

 

Our P4 Club Layout , Eridge has 2 platforms about 5ft long.  That's a lot of scribing !

 

So i decided to make this the next project for the Elegoo. The platforms are curved albeit gentle so that adds to the mix when it comes to design.

 

Platforms.jpg.38f47722c143883af25e9554b3516953.jpg

 

This led to this design

 

879837791_ShortEdgeStrip.jpg.88a9b73a83fdbaa1c20683be9d81140c.jpg

 

The size of the bricks was taken from The Bluebell Railway Platforms. The thickness that butts to the upper surface of the platform is 0.50mm which i felt was pretty much the minimum and when the platforms are covered with fake asphalt they should be fairly flush. The brick overhang on the platform sides is 0.80mm, when the sides are covered with brick plastikard this gives an overhang of 0.30 mm. The batten that runs along the pricks is 0.30 mm which allows the bricks to curve and form the relevant mortar joints. All seems rather plausible.

 

Printing was done direct to the build plate, scary and sometimes sacrificial whilst removing these delicate uncured items.  Results were fairly good on the viewing surface, however the batten suffered with splaying which then meant that they didn't sit correctly on the edge of the platform. A handful of unusable prints but at 1p a shot it was worth trying a few ideas.

 

 

1544720054_EdgeStrip.jpg.b3ea6e5586bf08827839c0dc23f6112a.jpg

 

After some advice from Mr Trice (of this establishment) I tried to print them at 90 degrees with the side face against the build plate. This eliminated the defects but made the debond from  the build plate almost impossible without breakages.

 

After some thought and the prospect of using the supports from Chitubox to make removal easier at the expense of added build time due to the minimum height of the supports i decided to go back to the design board and add the supports in Fusion. This i have to say is far more accurate to place them.

 

Revised Design

 

525716098_RevisedPlatformEdging.png.b037be73a096d28b5383270fbff52996.png

 

Simple enough re-design as the principle worked . This actually makes the product better to handle and install albeit with some finishing work to carry out. The principle now is for straight sections to be installed as is and then the pegs cut and filed flush once glued to the surface. For curved secions it is the same principle but the main sprue needs to be cut between pegs to allow the item to curve.

 

They were printed with the sprue attached to the build plate, long side of the brick hanging down. I guess to date i have printed 50 strips with no failures ;)

 

image.png.f9ee469ff4abbfa797d5c4862915c9a0.png

 

 

2093249925_RevisedPlatformEdgeTopside.jpg.39abe8f40095d9b253f8fdd3487b9e75.jpg

1130950092_RevisedPlatformEdgeUnderside.jpg.c712a4b43f10b3a803ec578afad9196f.jpg

 

 

£0.07 for 5 items (434 mm) what's not to like about that !

 

Mark

 

Build pictures to follow

 

Edited by Ark Royal
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Plasser & Theurer GPC 72

 

Well it was only a matter of time before temptation grew to strong to resist.

 

This is a project that dates back to July 2018 when i started the design stage. The design was based around a brass kit, but before i could complete it Hattons announced their intention to make one. Story of my life as i also done some of the design of the 45t Ransome & Rapier Steam Crane before that was announced by Bachmann. All that said it still deserves some further investigation if only for self gratification.

 

image.png.e6af7e0546edf1714b36605df8e5fc91.png

 

Obviously loads of parts to produce and with some small tweaks, mainly on wall thickness , i decided to print the 1st boom and Jib support structure. There is a method in my madness which i may divulge later ! I wasn't overly concerned with the placement of the supports when doing these prints it was more for development purposes rather than final model parts.

 

No post print processing has taken part apart from uv curing.

 

Jib Support with Ram Cylinder

 

image.png.587b39d4749bc7e2b0445b50d2b6949e.png

 

 

1816278227_JibSupport.jpg.ef5f65e8adb9f0c21c0c122dd31225ae.jpg

 

 

Jib Counterweight

 

image.png.db2bf00ffc3a5afcdf28ff74a6705829.png

886652070_JibWeight.jpg.cdacb109f7c114d4a71fa90d2fc5f798.jpg

 

Combined Jib and Counterweight

 

image.png.d98e80ab231ebd21c2a67846cfe9ae00.png

 

961372813_JibCombined.jpg.e12231f80829d8fd7ff6ef53791ad01e.jpg

 

Again 53p so whats not to like. The last photo seems to show the jib as being curved but in reality it isn't .

 

 

Mark 

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36 minutes ago, njee20 said:

Looks like you could easily print twice as many each time.

 

Well Njee i was pondering that thought myself. 

The big question is..... what is the minimum clearance between objects ?

 

Maybe some trials 

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8 hours ago, njee20 said:

No reason for there to need to be much separation really, as long as they don't blend together. A couple of mm should be fine.

 

Agree. I find it quite fun to see how many things I can squeeze on and what I can get away with -  such as putting things  inside hollow-bottomed  items and sneaking other smaller items  under overhanging parts  of larger ones. Takes ages to remove them from the plate and  clean them all up though!

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Very nicely done.  A friend is making my first roughly sliced model (a set of wheel centres for Bachmann B1/V2 driving wheels) tonight in his Formlabs printer, the outcome of which will drive the decision to buy an Elegoo Mars.

 

These are inspirational ideas - carry on!

 

wheelset.jpg.d72ff76f930ffa3e9cc8fe33a1c153d3.jpg

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23 hours ago, FoxUnpopuli said:

 

wheelset.jpg.d72ff76f930ffa3e9cc8fe33a1c153d3.jpg

 

Hi Mark

 

What guage do you model in ? How do you intend to make/ fix the wheel centres to the tyres ?

 

Hope the print goes well and it inspires you to take the plunge. I certainly have no regrets, other than now the unacheivable seems achievable and your mind starts running a riot.

 

Mark 

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Hello @Ark Royal, I model in OO.  These centres are 'caps' which fit over the metal Bachmann wheel.  I have received the items today, they need cleaning up fully, but popped one in the wheel upsidedown - it's a perfect fit.  I'm very pleased.

1584734992507.JPEG.2e88d06f606f9805f3dd9998fb789f90.JPEG

They have some shape in them, they should be a very snug fit over the wheel, and i will dab them in with a spot of cyano gel, or maybe epoxy.

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Eridge Station Curved Brick Walls

 

Eridge Station (Club Layout) has curved butress walls either side of the bridge that the station sits on. I tried to replicate these in plastikard but the curve and bow proved more than the plastikard/glue could handle.

 

So i took the plunge and made a 3D file to have them printed at Shapeways in the form of a wall that brick cladding would be applied to. Unfortunately they also have "brick soldiers" around the top of the wall but to have this incorporated in the 3D print increased each wall by 300% due to the material selection. That meant that i had to print them seperately and glue the "brick soldiers" to the top of the wall aswell.

 

The results were at best OK but i wasn't completely satisfied so since my purchase of the Elegoo i have been toying with reprinting them as one piece, still employing the clad brick construction to keep it the same as the rest of the bridge.

 

I haven't managed to work out how to curve the "brick soldiers" in Fusion in both the Y and Z axis but have got fairly close so i decided to cut my losses and try a print

 

Each Wall takes about 5hrs to print and fills the build plate.

 

Up Line Front Curved Wall

Up_Line_Front_Wall.jpg.5c41e958d31ceed5f63a609fdfb0c589.jpg

 

The one behind is the Shapeways carcase with slaters brick plastikard and Shapeways "brick soldiers" bonded together.

 

Up Line Rear Curved Wall

 

Up_Line_Rear_Wall.jpg.822af20a6e78f8039aa342c6520fa26c.jpg

 

 

Each Wall

Print Time: 5hrs +

Printed 1st Time

Cost: £0.52

Electric Cost:  £0.35

 

Results are very pleasing if you forgive the "brick soldiers"

 

 

Mark 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

WHAT'S THE POINT

 

How small will the Elegoo print ? Well these are incredibly tiny and yet they still ressemble their prototype parts, sorry about the quality of the images i have found it hard to capture them in focus.

One things for certain , It sure as hell beats making them up from brass frets.

Eridge needs plenty of these along with Facing Point Locks, Stretcher Bars, Tie Bars and all manner of semaphore signalling parts. Not sure whether the "KAG Group members" will like the thought of these but lets kick it off

 

Double Signal Pulley

 

Still attached to the carrier, the small support rods between the pulleys have been clipped off to show that there are indeed 2 pulleys

 

2116920266_DoublePulleyandCarrier.jpg.61b63b9b5bc980d5c99593a79f21e5a5.jpg

 

1302716546_DoublePulley.jpg.f05759414478e0ff50577f2c241987ce.jpg

 

Just to prove i'm totally insane , there are 7 versions of the above , each with the pulley wheels at a different point of rotation ... MADNESS

 

Single Pulley Wheel

 

1988203880_SinglePulley.jpg.360c286cfbbf4d1e7566e21b76502f97.jpg

 

Point Rodding Compensator

 

 

Compensator.jpg.e0f9f96e380405d144f33d3b681fc256.jpg

 

 

And 1 for a Friend

 

Locomotive Oil Lamps (BR/SR)

 

47129755_OilLamp(BR).jpg.d6928337e9a5a030b0babf68014c005d.jpg

 

I'm not going to individually price these items as per previous posts because quite frankly most are less than 2p for 10 items.

 

Not sure how the design for turnout tie rods, strectcher bars, FPL's  will fair as the difficulty is not impeding the movement of the turnouts. We will see

 

 

Mark 

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Impressive! I've been on the verge of pressing the "Buy Now" button for a Mars for a little while now, but it has been put on the back burner due to a house move. Having got settled in, I'll soon be ready to go again. I'm looking at producing castable masters for small parts on small industrial locos at 7mm scale. Would you mind me asking what diameter the pulley wheels are? 3mm or so?

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15 minutes ago, jdb82 said:

Impressive! I've been on the verge of pressing the "Buy Now" button for a Mars for a little while now, but it has been put on the back burner due to a house move. Having got settled in, I'll soon be ready to go again. I'm looking at producing castable masters for small parts on small industrial locos at 7mm scale. Would you mind me asking what diameter the pulley wheels are? 3mm or so?

 

Hi jbd82,

 

The diameter of the outer pulley wheel is 4mm (given true dimensions range from 10-12" diameter average and even 19").

They accept a 0.4mm wire rope.

 

Good Luck on your purchase, its worth it IMHO

 

Mark

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Well all I can say is - cor! I am amazed at what you guys are able to achieve! I don't have a printer and I'm a bit of a technophobe - but I'm learning by doing some simple designs (large scale stuff 1:1) on SketchUp that I note has a template for 3D printing.

 

A question, if I may? What is the maximum size of print that your printers can manage (it may have been mentioned but I missed it)? I saw above that wagon bodies were being printed, but what is the maximum size? I'm thinking loco bodies here.

 

Keep it up - I'm fascinated!

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

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1 hour ago, Philou said:

A question, if I may? What is the maximum size of print that your printers can manage (it may have been mentioned but I missed it)? I saw above that wagon bodies were being printed, but what is the maximum size? I'm thinking loco bodies here.

 

Keep it up - I'm fascinated!

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

 

The Elegoo Mars has a print size of 120mm x 68mm x 155 mm which is the only limiting factor so unless your thinking locomotives in 2mm scale (N guage) then you will need to employ some design tatics and split the body into sections. Most of the "entry" level machines have a similar size bed.

 

Some may see this as a drawback but i don't. The ability to design in a modular format allows for variations to be easily incorporated into the design stage.  It would then be a case of printing and assembling a master before making a mold to make a cast if more than one was needed. Thats how i would tackle such a problem.

 

I used a similar technique on Balcombe Viaduct when producing the corbels and refuges for the viaduct only down to the sheer number required.  Only difference being that i had no 3d printer at the time so had to have the masters made by Shapeways.

 

Mark 

 

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The Mars lists the build chamber dimensions as 120 x 68 x 155 - so you can do a 4mm loco in one hit, but only a small one.   You'll be looking to 'construct' the loco in chunks for anything bigger.  If you're a 2mm/N modeller - you're on a winner!

 

There are bigger printers, but the usual trade off is size for resolution.  The Mars has a 47micron / 0.047mm X/Y resolution.  The Phrozen Shuffle XL, for example, has a tank size of 190 x 120 x 200, but a resolution of 85 microns.  I'll be choosing the smaller unit because while you can assemble smaller parts to make a large, high-resolution model, you can't practically make a large lower-resolution model 'finer'.

 

Somewhere at the bottom of this (rather messy) webpage is a list of printers with tank sizes and resolutions.  You'll also see larger printers with fine resolution, then you'll cough up your Earl Grey at the price.

 

https://all3dp.com/1/best-resin-dlp-sla-3d-printer-kit-stereolithography/

 

(Or, you know, what Mark said.  But I'm Mark.  Did I double post from two different accounts?  Are these two Marks a gestalt entity?  Or is he Mark Juan, and I'm Mark too?  All this and more in next week's exciting show.)

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Posted (edited)

WHAT'S THE POINT (PART 2)

 

Today i turned my attention to the turnout detailing. I struggled to get an exact match to the prototype, strikes me the only way to achieve that would be a brass etch, insulated between each rail. (Maybe food for thought).

 

So instead i opted for the best i could achieve with minimum thicknesses.

 

Turnout Stretcher Bars

 

Mark 1 was a one piece print.

 

1570467660_AllinOneSprue.jpg.bdff953365a837fa939d85b75a2aceab.jpg

 

The stepping is quite noticeable in this print (0.5mm layer height) . I didn't have a turnout to hand so installed this onto a test plain track.

 

2019295644_AllInOneTrackTop.jpg.1be0001d913d41e23972adb1afc8afd4.jpg

 

398960840_AllinOneTrackFront.jpg.09d554665afa169fe56e4319258d2aaa.jpg

 

The problem with the All in One Method is that on hand built track and especially on turnouts the blades may not be set the same distance apart so this clearly was not going to work. If only i'd engaged brain before pressing print !

 

Mark 2.  Two part print

 

2141250463_TwoPartSprue.jpg.1c1951df7b267efb603d64f7bde5655c.jpg

 

The "Bar" is made over long and this fits into the seperate shoe, thus allowing for variations in turnout blade guaging.

 

1069227067_TwoPartAssembled.jpg.eeb4b7ca04df87814af391e3e9862749.jpg

 

2085243178_TwoPartAssembledTop.jpg.d0aa23d02e2a309194fc1d06a4265c60.jpg

 

As a comparison i found a bit of 0.45mm left over brass etch so decided to use that as the "Bar"

 

1710540289_TwoPartAssembledMetal.jpg.2e4d41f5c564b834d5f1f27a23fbc053.jpg

 

1708734735_TwoPartAssembledMetalTop.jpg.17807045e59c4a31e21c2cdbffdd48fd.jpg

 

The fact that these parts are by their very nature quite small and normally covered in grime i wonder if you can be forgiven for the lack of prototypical rail attachments.

 

Track Tie Rods

 

Again a massive challenge given the fact that the majority is round bar but i opted for the 2 part approach on this also

 

1429341426_TieRodSprue.jpg.f644696668bc832faff7ffd80606e529.jpg

 

Assembled

 

1115912826_TieRodAssembled.jpg.1ba73f5278e2e54c2790d9e678a7feeb.jpg

 

And one after i tried to fit it to the test track, which would never have worked as the test track is flatbottomed rail and not bullhead !

 

1328889320_TieRodAssembledside.jpg.2fac2c5b71caca024ab9754b61a46b38.jpg

 

Ironically my thoughts are that the Tie Rod would benifit from being a single piece, as they should always be guaged the same unless fitted on a curve which Eridge only has sweeping ones so guage widening is not employed to that extent.

I was surprised at how well the round bar printed so employing brass rod i don't think is necessary.

 

As for Tie Rod Mark 2 well

 

2057246000_TieRodMark2.jpg.285e417fef8516de9090f30e89102ba6.jpg

 

One thing that does detract from the item is the double flange which was used as the joining piece between the 2 part model. if printed in 1 piece i could loose one of these.

I might also try to reduce the width of the hexagonal adusting turnbuckle as this is on the large side mainly down to wanting the visible hole in the centre , which didn't turn out although it is partially visible.

 

 

My thoughts have also turned to Facing Point Locks and the like, although can of worms springs to mind as i don't have any knowledge on these ! SHOULD BE FUN !!!! 

Also need to build a bit of bullhead rail to "showcase" these bits .

 

Mark

 

Two Part Assembled Metal.jpg

Edited by Ark Royal
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On 04/04/2020 at 19:47, Ark Royal said:

 

The Elegoo Mars has a print size of 120mm x 68mm x 155 mm which is the only limiting factor so unless your thinking locomotives in 2mm scale (N guage) then you will need to employ some design tatics and split the body into sections. Most of the "entry" level machines have a similar size bed.

 

Some may see this as a drawback but i don't. The ability to design in a modular format allows for variations to be easily incorporated into the design stage.  It would then be a case of printing and assembling a master before making a mold to make a cast if more than one was needed. Thats how i would tackle such a problem.

 

I used a similar technique on Balcombe Viaduct when producing the corbels and refuges for the viaduct only down to the sheer number required.  Only difference being that i had no 3d printer at the time so had to have the masters made by Shapeways.

 

Mark 

 

 

I prefer printing small modules for later  assembly, firstly because if a failure occurs or the design has an error in it that snuck through to the printed stage, you haven't wasted as much resin. 

 

Secondly the seperate wall sections  can be re-alligned to make printing faster - for instance say a small building with walls 50mm high and say 3mm thick might take something like 5 to 7 hours to print  (assuming 0.02mm layers and 7 sec off time) if printed assembled, but print the 4 walls seperately flat to the base and even if you can only fit one wall at a time on the printer it  will take a total of  70  minutes to print all four walls using the same settings, if you can fit two or more sections on, its halved. Also if you realise that you've mucked up a window size or something you ony need to reprint that wall, wasting less time and resin.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have had a 3D filament printer for a couple of years, but as I do large railway modelling I have found the resolution of the prints to be too poor to use in my models. So I have been thinking about purchasing a resin printer for many months now due to the higher resolution and quality of the prints.

 

After coming across your posts my mind is almost made up, just a couple of questions if I may?


1. Most articles on the web talk about all of the “extras” needed for successful printing: lots of gloves, resin filters, lots of paper towels for cleaning, UV curing chambers, spares (screen, FEP film). Would I need all this, as it will add a lot to the basic £230 for an Elegoo Mars?

2. What are using to cure your models? Sunlight?
3. Are you using the same bottle of water washable resin and does it work and clean up ok? At about £47 per bottle it is obviously a big added cost on top of the cost of the printer itself.

 

Kevin

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On 15/04/2020 at 12:38, Kevinti28 said:

I have had a 3D filament printer for a couple of years, but as I do large railway modelling I have found the resolution of the prints to be too poor to use in my models. So I have been thinking about purchasing a resin printer for many months now due to the higher resolution and quality of the prints.

 

After coming across your posts my mind is almost made up, just a couple of questions if I may?


1. Most articles on the web talk about all of the “extras” needed for successful printing: lots of gloves, resin filters, lots of paper towels for cleaning, UV curing chambers, spares (screen, FEP film). Would I need all this, as it will add a lot to the basic £230 for an Elegoo Mars?

2. What are using to cure your models? Sunlight?
3. Are you using the same bottle of water washable resin and does it work and clean up ok? At about £47 per bottle it is obviously a big added cost on top of the cost of the printer itself.

 

Kevin

 

 

Hi Kevin,

 

Thanks for your post. Ask as many questions as you want, its a learning curve for you and me alike and to the benifit of everyone that views the blog.

 

Safety First - You want to enoy your printing experience not get inuries from it ! so YES  personal protective equipment is a necessity not an option IMHO.

 

Gloves  - are not that expensive and if you formulate a process for your prints in an ordered manner you shoud only use a maximum of 1 pair per print.  Often if turned inside out when removing them you can re-use them when doing the "dirty" element of the process. 

 

Filters - I would highly recomend these, you do get some with the kit. I started my printing experience by removing the resin after each days printing and felt that the risk of contaminating the bottled resin was not worth the small cost of a single filter. That is no longer the case as i have a permanent home for my printer so i only remove resin from the print tank when i have had a failed print which is very rare. Like everything its personal preference and having a few spare filters is never a bad thing in my mind especially when if you need one it will take 5 days to get one if you haven't got a reserve. At the end of the day, contaminated resin will lead to failures of one sort or another and cost more in resin to reprint than the purchase of a few filters.

One thing i have purchased which i now find invluable is a glass beaker ( chemistry lab type) which helps when filtering resin from the tank . It also doubles for something later on.

 

Paper Towels  -  Cheap and correctly disposed of.  I use these to put on my work surface when removing the printed parts from the build plate. I cure the dirty towels in direct sunlight (green house) and then re-use them when cured. I have a redundant vegetable peeling recycle bin that i put the towels in , its about 6L and i have only filed this 1.5 times since i started. You cannot get away from using towels to clean your tools etc but it really isn't going to break the bank and they are generally around the home in the quantity you will need, unless you are doing this on an industrial scale and then i'd say that these disposables would be factored into the unit cost.

 

UV Curing Chamber - This is not a necessity but i print in 4mm Scale to this point the items are quite light ( often hollowed to save resin) and curing them in the daylight takes time and if not sheltered can cause damage, therefore I'd recommend one but there is always a window cill.  I have purchased one that is used by nail arstist purchased from a local store at a cost of £15. I didn't get one when i started out and it was my 1st purchase after gettting the Elegoo mars, i really needed it as i was printing in the evening, out at work all day. As most of my items are small they easily fit into the chamber and not once have i regretted the purchase. Don't under estimate your desire to want to touch, feel and admire your creations - it becomes adictive !

 

FEP Films - As yet i have not changed my FEP Film, it is significantly marked but that appears not to affect the print. A certain law states that when you need it you'll wish you purchased one. Accidents will always happen but the likelyhood is they will happen when you first start using the machine as you are unfamilliar with the item. That said if you can wait 5-7 days for them to arrive then you could use the "when i need it approach".

To me i ust wanted to crack on with experimenting and i got them about 2 weeks after my initial purchase. I was given a link to a facebook page for Elegoo Owners for free FEP Sheets, i've heard nothing back despite emails so i would entirely rely on that process. The link i believe is in my blog.

 

Water Washable Resin - I am using the same bottle of resin i initially purchased. I have no experience of other types of resin so cannot comment fully on this subject.  Again i chose this resin under the theory of accidental spillage during initial stages of learning the process it's that law again ! But i wanted to be prepared so Water Washable was a no brainer, Yes it's more expensive but when i accidently drip resin on my floor i dont have to use chemicals to clean it up and potentially damage the floor covering..... Drips are not uncommon, especially when transferring the build plate from its horizontal position to the 45 degree bracket position ( supplied with the kit). To my mind the tank needed to be designed bigger as often this process leads to drips from the build plate down the front of the tank.

 

Its worth pointing out here you will need a couple of "food locakable" containers to clean your prints - you MUST NOT rinse them in the sink ! So I, like most, employ a two stage process cleaning process and then dispose of the waste when needed correctly via you local recylcling centre guidelines.

 

I don't use water to clean my resin prints i use Isopropyl Alcohol ( which incidently i had from cast resin molding process)  and this is mainly due to the fact that Alccohol flashes off and dries quicker than water. The parts I have printed to date are delicate to say the least i'm kind of pushing the lower boundaries in the models i have printed so drying them with towels etc is out of the question, we are talking in the range 0.6 - 0.7mm wall thickness sometimes finer.

 

There has, due to the climate we are in at present, been a massive hike in the price of this commodity so be warned. I could easily use my ultrasonic cleaning bath to do the job ( used on PCB manufacturing amongst other processes). Please bear in mind we are not talking litres of fluid to clean 1 build plate full of prints we are talking  a relatively small quantity. 

 

The use of 2 containers helps preserve the quantity of IPA being used. The item being cleaned only enters the 2nd container once it has been thoroughly cleaned in the 1st.  When fluid in the 1st Container is IMHO contaiminated too much it is syringed into the chemistry lab beaker via a filter, the sludge (see picture) is then put into a waste container (to be disposed of later), the container cleaned and then the IPA in the beaker decaned back into the container with another pass through a filter. Likewise for renewing the IPA in the 2nd (last stage) container this is filtered directly into the 1st Container.

 

Glup_1st_Container.jpg.9655e8b26bb77c0f367d7f1602891c15.jpg

 

The Sludge Left From Initial Cleaning In 1st Cleaning Pot. (Time to Empty It)

 

The prints clean up well, but i will let you decide that as all of the photos in my blog have had nothing else done to them apart from this 2 stage cleaning process, curing and where applicable sprues removed.

 

Even though i am now more  accustomed to the process and in light of the current world situation i purchased another 2 ltres of the same resin as a stockpile item i should really try a different type, maybe someone out there can give you their perspective on resins ?

 

Best of Luck with your purchase - i dont regret mine, i love it and wish i'd taken the plunge earlier !

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

What's The Point (Part 3)

 

Well continuing on from the cosmetic turnout clutter littered around these functional items i have decided to go with the drive units themselves before dealing with the Facing point Locks etc.

I'm sure there are plenty more variations which may come to light once i have posted these items, but as scaled drawings are scarse these are what i have produced thus far in 4mm Scale.

 

 

GRS Electric Point Motor Type 5A

 

1580248462_GRSType5A-Screenshot.jpg.b16f3ecd20d72cac6542868c76a89fa5.jpg

 

Measures:

Length 21mm

Width 11mm

 

1169950647_GRS_Type5APointMotor-TopView.jpg.7770300e02040865fdb6260b7d01234a.jpg

 

850314602_GRS_Type5APointMotor-LHView.jpg.4176f0b2ff6b5dbfbc474f89a1d15d8b.jpg

 

972907111_GRS_Type5APointMotor-RHView.jpg.2d1a3c1071ff800fc41fcc6b934eb199.jpg

 

This model has since been updated to include the output/input rod housing cut outs.

 

Print Time: 32 min

Printed 1st Time

Cost: £0.19 for 16 models

Electric Cost:  £0.04

 

SGE Type HB Point Motor

 

1548193404_SGE_HBScreenshot.jpg.131524bc6fe1c3e087c32cb376dd9105.jpg

 

Measures:

Length 24mm

Width 11.75mm

 

2111591913_SGE_HBTypePointMotor-TopView.jpg.11517578e37eb48e7fa7ec1127382d33.jpg

 

1074688967_SGE_HBTypePointMotor-LHView.jpg.bf4a599ec233e17f720e7994a1ae2d05.jpg

 

651898197_SGE_HBTypePointMotor-RHView.jpg.ff228a97c1212b954d1a884bc0205451.jpg

 

Print Time: 31 min

Printed 1st Time

Cost: £0.23 for 16 models

Electric Cost:  £0.04

 

ML Electrics Type MC Point Motor

 

1291982105_MLElectrics-Screenshot.jpg.afc702e859d549061d29a8eda18da0b1.jpg

 

Measures:

Length 15.8mm

Width 11.5mm

 

1665109141_MLElectricsTypeMCPointMotor-TopView.jpg.167a9601afc7ab472bad53f2db1dda6d.jpg

 

Sloped Box Covers equals visual but minimal layer lines.

 

1798341848_MLElectricsTypeMCPointMotor-LHView.jpg.bddda983dfb0060d66eb75cea8c29779.jpg

 

195773324_MLElectricsTypeMCPointMotor-RHView.jpg.79e2394aba8b8dd43e1afc597257a22d.jpg

 

Print Time: 28 min

Printed 1st Time

Cost: £0.28 for 20 models

Electric Cost:  £0.04

 

Westinghouse Mk3A Point Motor

 

1780465909_WestinghouseMk3A-Screenshot.jpg.faaa142394f165620a94220a0704b25f.jpg

 

Measures:

Length 18.5mm

Width 10mm

 

724143755_WestinghouseMk3APointMotor-TopView.jpg.f7dbe8eebf8d56c6548ef6200f26b48b.jpg

 

2081278807_WestinghouseMk3APointMotor-RHView.jpg.4ef63fdec2b7e693154813785d60b8cd.jpg

 

1687078078_WestinghouseMk3APointMotor-LHView.jpg.87df2ab07f9af151850e2de9418587eb.jpg

 

Print Time: 25 min

Printed 1st Time

Cost: £0.19 for 20 models

Electric Cost:  £0.04

 

Mark 

 

 

Edited by Ark Royal
Screenshots Jumbled ?
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Posted (edited)

Wickham Trolley

 

Searching through my archive of 3D Models i was going to have professionally printed i came across a folder with various versions of the Wickham Trolley. I seem to recollect that i had attempted and failed miserably to build a brass version of this which then led to this file being created.

 

I decided to have a go at printing one myself. The original file was an complete model as one unit without any form of chassis other than the trolley floor.

This clearly was never going to work on 2 levels . firstly the printing aspect and secondly the interior painting of the model.

 

586992893_Type27FullModelFusionRender.jpg.c4f589a1e9ec8cc93acea10975acdeee.jpg

 

84769021_Type27FullBodyRearFusionRender.jpg.a37d2ea04dd52002adb166f70a61aa7d.jpg

 

With that in mind i set about altering the model file to be printed in 2 parts with locating pegs to glue the 2 parts together once finished.

 

1. The interior including the floorpan and enrance step boards. The handbrake lever was printed seperately (conflict due to proximity to other interior items)

 

1887591506_Type27Interior.jpg.7b028e97f999c5d8c9fa04a7e54d4db9.jpg

Seat Back Support Material added in file.

 

2. The Exterior

 

499193087_Type27BodyShell.jpg.04b633e73c3a72a087fb0b7030eafa12.jpg

 

This in itself was a bit of a challenge as positoning supports on the interior for unsupported overhangs was virtually impossile when it came to the drivers console so i opted

to print the console as part of the exterior where supporting was easier.

 

The Results

 

I used Chitubox auto supports for generating the support material other than those added during 3d generation.

 

788062688_WickhamTrolleyBodywithSupports.jpg.a4391e9b9622a9165c5b782c44ce1d9d.jpg

 

1315892269_WickhamTrolleywithSupports.jpg.41e14fc960f35580e55f914084c44e1f.jpg

 

 

Post Support Removal

 

1660515202_WickhamTrolleyBodyshell.jpg.92e9a95fb2279c078278170aa28f673f.jpg

 

1201831305_WickhamTrolleyInteriorWarping.jpg.3432254a0a414408262aa1c2f2cb25ef.jpg

 

They appeared to have come out okay but on closer examination there are 2 issues.

 

ISSUE 1. - SUPPORTS

 

This is mainly noticable on the Bodyshell.

 

I know the issue here and that is Chitubox and Auto generation of supports and that is entirely my fault. For anyone that has used Chitubox and inputted there own support material it is a complex time consuming operation and it seems easier to hit the auto generate button.  Well here is the reason NOT to do that !

 

 

263519187_WickhamTrolleySupportIssue.jpg.0fa6b9f7a2a5dbac5a58ac73e3e853a7.jpg

 

This damage was caused when removing the internal support  material. On this corner post only the Auto Generate function in Chitubox had put a support so close to the window member that it fused together with the model over the entire length of the model ( ground to roof) . It done a similar thing to one of the centre side panels but i managed to get that off without damaging the model.

 

What frustrates me most about this kind of fault is that there is clearly no rhyme or reason the  positioning of supports with the Auto Generate function of Chitubox.

If there was then you'd expect the other corners to be the same or the opposite corner, likewise on the centre post support. 

 

In previous post i have been directed to another slicing software that has better environment for adding support material. TBH i didnt spend too much time with this environment but maybe now is the time to explore this.

 

It's a shame as to all intents and purpose the rest of the model is an acceptable 1st print but that's a hard esson learnt.

 

Apart from that issue i was pleased in the detail on the body shell, the fuel filler cap, drivers console gear (direction) lever , drivers console and radiator came out really well, as did the winows.

 

 

675730626_WickhamTrolleyCloseUpDamage.jpg.1d949b55ad7fa346dfdb91799bb202cf.jpg

 

 

ISSUE 2 - WARPING

 

This is only noticeable on the Interior module

 

1658486434_WickhamTrolleyInteriorWarping.jpg.3ef25d0e90d48327461cb600b550cf98.jpg

 

As a functional model this would never work. I would really be interested in comments relating to the possible causes of this issue as i'm at a loss for an explanation.

 

 I am thinking its down to material thickness as the model is "balanced" in material thickness both laterally and longitudinally, So if it is material thickness any recommendations ?

 

I guess the answer to the above is dependant on whether one requires a functional model or a redundant diorama model. You may if aware of the protype noted that i hadn;t model the radiator grille. My preference to this was to have it etched along with the "operational chassis". 

 

In reflecion i now wonder whether my recollection of the brass model was that it was far to complicated and that the best way forward would be an Etched Chassis and Body Panels with 3D printed interior to offset the level of build difficulty ?

 

Mark 

Edited by Ark Royal
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Sometimes it is difficult to totally eradicate warping. Warping can often be resolved by immersing the moulding in very hot (not boiling) water and tweaking (carefully) with your fingers. Sometimes just pouring a recently boiled kettle over the model is enough to relieve the strains.

 

Another option, assuming the warping occurs after separation from the supports, is to leave the supports in place until the model is well cured.

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