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6 minutes ago, Adam FW said:

 

....

 

The only issue I'm having is that compared to the translucent resins the grey has more clearly defined print lines, especially on flat surfaces which I'm still trying to overcome as I can't stand filling and sanding. I'm not sure if this is a by product of my settings or that the clear resins allowed UV light to cure outside each sliced layer and thus smoothing it

 

 

Is it possible it's just that you can see the print lines more clearly on the opaque gray, where as the translucent ones let the light pass through so you don't get the shadows cast by the imperfections.

 

I've been have problems with print lines originating from the corners of things - this seems to result in some sort of movement in model relative to fep film.

 

 

qAKaiAs.jpg

 

 

O0tZVIJ.jpg

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18 minutes ago, tebee said:

 

Is it possible it's just that you can see the print lines more clearly on the opaque gray, where as the translucent ones let the light pass through so you don't get the shadows cast by the imperfections.

 

I've been have problems with print lines originating from the corners of things - this seems to result in some sort of movement in model relative to fep film.

 

 

you are right that the opaque grey colour makes the lines more visible than on the translucent but you can feel the difference not just see it.

 

I'm not sure how well it shows up but these are the only 2 unpainted similar parts that I had lying around in each resin as an example (same layer height. Resin type and exposure times are the only differences), both had issues with supports hence the sawtooth like base

 

IMG_0628.jpg.c314189355f722aa831d66419710bbe7.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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39 minutes ago, tebee said:

you're getting a lot more lines than me - what support structure are you using ?

I'm using chitubox, these are the print settings for the grey resin (I have a mars pro so it should have shorter exposure times than a standard mars):

 

image.png.28b1b7462653d48a714dfc847ad993a7.png

 

the auto support settings I'm currently using (not on the prints shown) are 35% density, 12mm square bases with round supports: 1.2mm diameter middle, 0.5mm spherical contact diameter end, 0.2mm contact depth

 

On a cab like those shown I would typically get rid of all the roof supports and redo them manually with fewer of them and make sure the spacing around the base of the cab is even. On remote points I would add additional supports also.

 

One difference between our prints is the angle, I typically use a 10 degree angle to print on whereas yours are much steeper. I try to ensure as much as possible is self supporting so add add 10 to 20 degree chamfers under most overhangs to avoid the need for excessive supports hence the shallow angle.

 

Having done some googling some of the issue could be due to me needing to tighten the screws on the build platform, it hasn't needed releveling so something may have loosened with time which I'll look into as the good yellow prints came before the grey ones

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Those settings are dissimilar to mine - I'm using .05 layer height and 50% support density are the two most relevant ones I think,

 

I use medium auto supports then add some heavy ones in the corner and anywhere else i think might distort.

 

Reason for those two prints both being at a sharp angle is that the are both about 15mm longer than the Mars can print - it's the only way I can get them to fit !.

 

Most of my stuff is about 15 angle and sometimes 8 or so in the other plane.

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On 17/06/2020 at 17:11, brack said:

May I ask where you got yours from? I have one on preorder from 3djake, so if yours came from there perhaps mine will shortly be arriving? Wasnt expecting it til the 26th, but it seems they do turn up early on occasions.

 

My Mars Pro was also due on the 26th from 3djake but despatched last week, and like every single Shapeways order I've had has ended up sitting in a warehouse in Tamworth over the weekend. Hopefully it should arrive tomorrow....

Edited by 298
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Is yours sitting in the UPS warehouse in Tamworth?

I ordered some Isopropyl just over a week ago and it has been sitting in UPS Tamworth since last Monday evening!!

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On 18/06/2020 at 19:38, Adam FW said:

I’ve not had much luck with clear resin. I’ve only used the anycubic stuff and it is really sensitive to print settings and temperature to the point that I gave up with it as it wouldn’t print reliably ...

Ive added a picture of my best test print to give you an idea of what I managed

 

image.jpg.db5116df03ef062509da7e1da879ffd4.jpg

 

basically the printer can do it but the resin may be challenging to work with

So could that piece be polished clear and sparkling with a suitable Tcut type polish and polishing tool?

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2 hours ago, 298 said:

 

My Mars Pro was also due on the 26th from 3djake but despatched last week, and like every single Shapeways order I've had has ended up sitting in a warehouse in Tamworth over the weekend. Hopefully it should arrive tomorrow....

Snap.

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35 minutes ago, runs as required said:

So could that piece be polished clear and sparkling with a suitable Tcut type polish and polishing tool?

Possibly, Though I haven’t tried it.
 

Just be aware that you’d have to polish the inside as well which would be more difficult to access

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Quick question, my Elegoo has arrived but I'm not allowed to play with it until Thursday. It has an Euro plug, do users generally lop this off and put a 13a square pin plug on, or use a different lead...? Just wondering, in case it may need to be returned.

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If it is a flat 2-pin plug, you can get an adapter that turns it into a 3 pin UK plug, with the 2 pin plug clamped firmly inside, like this:

 

https://www.euronetwork.co.uk/European-to-UK-Converter-Plug-ECP-?19-1028-005-B

 

If is is a round two pin plus earth clips, these are available too:

 

https://www.euronetwork.co.uk/Schuko-European-to-UK-Converter-Plug-SCP3-?19-1032-013-B

 

otherwise, either replace it, or get a euro style extension lead and replace the plug on that instead, to avoid invalidating any warranty.

 

https://www.euronetwork.co.uk/White-1-Gang-European-Extension-Lead-?19-1107-020-W

 

I just did a quick google search for these, I have no experience of using this company.

 

 

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1 hour ago, 298 said:

Quick question, my Elegoo has arrived but I'm not allowed to play with it until Thursday. It has an Euro plug, do users generally lop this off and put a 13a square pin plug on, or use a different lead...? Just wondering, in case it may need to be returned.

I had the same with mine some weeks ago, I kept the transformer block and swapped the removable euro lead for a UK one rather than cutting off the plug.

 

You can probably buy a UK replacement lead from B&Q, ebay or amazon.

 

If you're concerned with the transformer check the voltage, current and wattage spec written on it and confirm that it's suitable for the UK grid but mine matched other transformers that I've got and has worked fine.

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7 hours ago, 298 said:

Quick question, my Elegoo has arrived but I'm not allowed to play with it until Thursday. It has an Euro plug, do users generally lop this off and put a 13a square pin plug on, or use a different lead...? Just wondering, in case it may need to be returned.

Mine too. The lead is a kettle plug, and any of those from an existing appliance ought to be fine, although the fuse may be of the wrong value. The transformer for my elegoo is labelled 2A input, so a 3A fuse would be best if fitting a lead with a fused plug.

Not that the lead it comes with (or other 2 pin euro plugs) has a fuse mind!

I'm lucky that I share an office with our network administrator so we have a big box of kettle plugs, transformer bricks etc from old equipment which gives me a bottomless supply.

 

Chopping the euro plug off and wiring on a UK plug would work just as well, but finding non moulded plugs is harder these days and it might affect your ability to return or claim warranty should there be something up with it.

Edited by brack
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23 minutes ago, Andrew Dobie said:

Damn damn damn, I missed out on the pre-orders!

Looks like i'm going to have to wait for the general release, whenever that is....or get the Mars.

I missed out on the first batch, gave up and bought a Mars 

 

Not regretted it so far !

 

Gn15 loco 

 

REI2is8.jpg

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4 minutes ago, tebee said:

I missed out on the first batch, gave up and bought a Mars 

 

Not regretted it so far !

 

Gn15 loco 

 

REI2is8.jpg

Excellent work!

 

I am new to 3D printing and relatively new to 'proper' railway modelling so the Mars would probably suit my needs as a beginner.

 

As far as I can tell from reviews and on here - and because I don't understand some of the technical aspects! - the end result in terms of the detail is almost identical, it is just that the Saturn can do it in a larger scale and quicker? I realise thats a very simplified evaluation from a simplified mind!

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Yes main advantage for home users is it's bigger. The speed is of more interest to people using them in a production environment. For the casual user the larger size = larger vat = more resin needed. if you are only using it occasionally there is always the chance  the resin in the vat might have gone off and you will waste more.  

 

And  the Saturn is an untried machine,the Mars has been around for a while and fixes for it's problems known already  

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On ‎25‎/‎06‎/‎2020 at 11:04, Andrew Dobie said:

Excellent work!

 

I am new to 3D printing and relatively new to 'proper' railway modelling so the Mars would probably suit my needs as a beginner.

 

As far as I can tell from reviews and on here - and because I don't understand some of the technical aspects! - the end result in terms of the detail is almost identical, it is just that the Saturn can do it in a larger scale and quicker? I realise thats a very simplified evaluation from a simplified mind!

Saturn is 25% quicker, its bigger, z not so much, its faster due to its Monochrome LCD, however there is a cost associated with this LCD as they are not as common, $250 for a new one if it gets damaged however they are longer lasting, compared to the mars £25.
Also due to its size FEP liner film supply is also costly as its not a standard size.

Overall the beta test units seem good, hit Amazon in November, possibly around £599 those who pre ordered will get theirs in August, and September.

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I was hoping to have had my Mars running by now but trying to install the Chitubox software has highlighted issues with the elderly Dell laptop that doesn't see alot of use apart from running SketchUp and AutoCAD elements. I've managed to upgrade Vista to SP2 but the installation freezes at the usual execute VS c++ 2017 command, and I've yet to try adding this manually.

 

Mrs 298 has sanctioned a replacement but generally speaking, what would be a minimum spec and budget to easily run slicing software on and Fusion360 that I have tasked myself with learning....? 

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Just a suggestion but have you considered a refurbished laptop?

I was browsing Laptops Direct site for one for my grandson (11) and didn’t want to pay too much as he’s not very careful with his things :)

 

Ended up buying a brand new Lenovo for c.£500. i7, 8gig of ram and 500hdd.

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2020-06-27_11-06-17

 

I already had a chimney and safety valve bonnet spare, so removed them from the CAD. Some distortion on both front and rear buffer beams, so more supports needed there. Overall I'm pretty happy. The loco in 28mm wide across bufferbeams (it's a 7mm scale model of the smallest standard Bagnall saddle tank).

 

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10 hours ago, 298 said:

Mrs 298 has sanctioned a replacement but generally speaking, what would be a minimum spec and budget to easily run slicing software on and Fusion360 that I have tasked myself with learning....? 

 

Fusion360 isn't generally that demanding to run compared to some other software. It's coolest feature though, is the timeline, which records every individual step in your design and lets you "hop" back and alter any previous step. Changes then filter through all of the subsequent stages - REALLY helpful - but also doing this was the only thing that would make my old laptop struggle.

 

It's really difficult to talk about computer processor specifications these days because the way they're named. Is a 9th generation Intel i3 faster than an 8th Gen i5? Who knows! 

 

My old laptop (MacBook Pro from 2015 - dual core 5th generation Intel i5 2.7ghz with 8gb RAM) generally did well with Fusion, but often ground to a halt when making changes via the timeline. My replacement 2020 MacBook Pro (quad core 8th generation Intel i5 1.4Ghz with 8gb RAM) hasn't had any issues like that.

 

I'd say the most important thing is at least 8Gb RAM, and if you stick with a processor described as i5 and not too old, you should be good!

 

Definitely worth considering refurbished. Tier1Online have a good reputation for refurbished ex-corporate laptops and desktops.

 

J

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This is a link to the Fusion 360 website giving the minimum spec needed. My 2 year old Lenovo struggles even with 4gb ram, 2.2ghz processor and SSD. I think it is the “on chip” graphics which mainly causes the problem, it isn’t able to process the 3D drawing and rendering.

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/System-requirements-for-Autodesk-Fusion-360.html

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