Ark Royal's WorkBench "3H" DEMU Build

[Ark Royal]

I apologise now for those that have read this in my Blog, i have decided to start this as a thread to hopefully encourage some replies with the help i need to complete this project.

 

Firstly about me:

 

Born in the late 60's, I spent much of my early teens travelling the length and breadth of this glorious country behind diesel locomotives. This obviously turned into modelling. Working life put a halt to that but some 20 years later i have returned to the modelling fraternity.

 

This is my first "real" kit build, i have done plenty of conversions before but never a full kit build.

Added to the above it's to be done in P4 though i don't see that as a problem at the moment.

 

"Why a 3H ?"

 

Simple answer really, at the time of starting this project i wanted to build something to run on our club layout "Eridge". Set in the late 50's this is an unfamiliar territory for me. Feeling more comfortable with my own era i settled on a 3D in BR Green. These units did not however enter service on the Eridge line until April of 1962. Some further research on this, showed that prior to the dieselisation of line a 3H unit (1115) done trials in 1957.

 

 

So to the Kit.

 

The kit is manufactured by DC Kits and was purchased as a 2H then a 1952 Built 64"6' Suburban Kit purchased for the Trailer Second was added to bring it up to the 3H needed to make unit 1115. It is made of plastic ABS parts which are glued together to form the shell. I had wanted to build a brass version of this but unfortunately the "pocket strings" wouldn't stretch to that.

 

Construction

 

Each "car" consists of a roof and floor section, which are supplied oversize. The sides for the DMBS (Driving Motor Brake Second) and TS ( Trailer Second) are supplied in two separate pieces. For the DTCL (Driving Trailer Composite Lavatory) this is in three pieces per side. 2 ends are supplied per "car",aswell as sprues for the underfloor trussing, bogies,roof vents and a brass etch for the underfloor equipment and other ancillary parts

 

The Three Coaches Assembled

 

The above picture clearly shows the separate parts required to make up the coach sides. The only points of note really when doing this is to make sure you've got the right bit for the right coach and the right side. Ensure it is correctly aligned before putting any glue near it. Unfortunately plastic parts once glued don't separate very readily or cleanly unlike brass and soldering.

 

I assembled mine from the roof down, as i wanted the floor to be removable for access later on.

 

I started by getting the driving end in position with the correct overhang of the roof, ensuring it was square and leaving to dry. Then one part of the side was added, allowing drying time before moving to the next stage. The opposite side was added next ensuring not only did it marry up at the front but that when in that position it was square with its counterpart and therefore hopefully lining up the door and windows where appropriate. I continued this format until the sides were complete and the other end section was fitted and square. Only when it was completely dry did i trim the roof to its final dimension allowing for the overhang.

 

Front view of 3H

 

The floors are straight forward and just need trimming to the correct size to fit the model, or so i thought (more later).

 

The Interior

 

I decided from the outset that as there was little build in this kit that this area should be modelled to a high standard. Its the kind of thing P4 modellers do!!

 

Seats

 

The seats can be supplied as an addition from the same manufacturer. I purchased a set of these but realised on arrival that these were not of the correct type for the unit but could be modified to represent them.

 

A closing panel made from brass strip was added to all the seat bases as per the prototype. The seat cushions were bolstered by adding a 1 x 5mm strip of ABS to heighten the seating position. At the top of each seat another strip of 2 x 4mm (1mm for seats up against bulkhead) was added to represent the head cushion. All the added ABS being shaped to represent cushions.

 

The back to back seats were then glued to the floor to coincide with the window stanchions.

 

Seats - Original and Modified (Furthest from Camera)

 

 

It was only after i had glued the first set of seats (2nd class) onto the floor of the TS that i noticed the different thicknesses of floor.

 

Floor Thickness Issue.

The two floors supplied with the kit were a different thicknesses. Both had cut-outs molded into the floor for provision of a motor. The apparent difference in thickness was due to one of the floors supplied with the kit being upgraded. The upgraded floor (thicker version) allows a "Back Beetle or similar to be fitted without needing to make a cut-out in the floor. The recess for the motor being made deeper to facilitate the motor hence the change in thickness. Fortunately the Trailer Second floor was the same as one of the supplied (2H) floors.

 

For my build this was a headache. I purchased a 1952 Built 64"6' Suburban Kit Bashers Range kit. This included a floor that in theory would have no motor mounting recess.......... but it did

 

To resolve the matter i ended up skimming thefloor of the DTCL to remove the raised portion of the motor housing. This left a whole which was then filled with 0.5mm ABS. That sorted the DTC floor out.

 

The floor for the DMBS was slightly more difficult. I ended up skimming this floor down to the correct thickness from the bulkhead to the engine room to the back of the carriage.

 

This left the recess for the motor intact.

 

Bulkheads

 

The bulkheads were made from 0.5mm ABS. 3 bulkheads per carriage will be used to secure the floor to the shell. This has been achieved by cutting a thread into the seat attached to the bulkhead, eventually these will be permanently glued into the shell. The remaining bulkheads will be glued to the floor and thus be removed for access when the floors come off.

 

DMBS note the floor area that needed to be milled to get the same height throughout the cabin

 

DTCL again showing the small piece of plastic needed to repair the floor height differences in the kit

 

TS

 

Roof Detail

 

This has been a bit of a stumbling block for me. Having marked from the supplied instructions the position for the engine access panel and radiator fan on the DMBS. I attached the brass frets.The large roof access panel didn't curve very easily and i soon dispensed with this in favour of a homemade variety. Sitting back and admiring my handy work i noticed that the fan was too far back, sitting in the guards compartment. Pictures of the real item showed that the engine access panel was longer than that supplied. This meant that i had to remove MK2 , fill the hole for the radiator fan, re-position and re-make the engine access panel. Hopefully it won't notice when painted!

 

MK 2 Note position of Radiator Grille in Guards Compartment!X

 

MK 3 Radiator Grille now ending on Aft Engine Room Bulkhead

 

This foe-par and further dissimilarities with the prototype has led me to dispense with the instructions!

 

The vents have been added and i've just started the lighting conduit. The positioning of the lighting conduit and toilet water pipes is a bit of a mystery, with only a few roof shots to go on this is holding up detailing the roof.

 

 

Any help out there would be appreciated ?

 

 

Bogies

 

The compensation units have been built up and blackened. The cosmetic bogie frames supplied with the kit will be replaced with MJT cast ones. Purely by my preference they have more detail.

 

 

 

Lighting

 

Originally, as mentioned earlier, this was to be run on "Eridge" controlled by DC. It has now been decided to run our club layout with DCC. This makes my life a whole lot easier with regards to the lighting projects.

 

Treading new ground once more, i have made up a "trial" circuit board by etching single sided copper clad board. Another first for me was using SMD resistors and LED's. The results are below, although not happy with the colour quite yet the actual process is satisfactory. The problem with SMD LED's is the limited variety, none seem to be a warm glow realistic of the prototype lighting.

 

As Supplied

 

Added Colour

 

 

BTW the shells do not normally sit like this on the floors it was just plonked on to take the two photos

 

Anyway that brings me up to date so i'll post this and hopefully it will spur me on a bit. With all the difficulties and waiting for parts i have another project or three on the go!

 

Mark

[meld]

Ark,

 

I have some detail type shots here ... http://mike6874.fotopic.net/c387148_1.html ... that might be of help.

 

Mike.

[Ark Royal]

loving this mark,i have a couple of dc kits dmus to build but keep shying away from them.i had trouble with the floor when i did test car iris,but otherwise they are good kits.keep up the good work,regards,bob

 

Hi Bob,

 

thanks for your comments hopefully it will grow on people as it progresses.

 

Problems, Not a word i like. maybe you'd like to enlighten us?

 

Mark

[Ark Royal]

Ark,

 

I have some detail type shots here ... http://mike6874.foto.../c387148_1.html ... that might be of help.

 

Mike.

 

Thanks Mike,

 

Some of your photos will come in handy and fortunately fall into the correct build batch 1101-1118 (subsequently 205001-205018).

 

Thanks to a visit to the East Kent Railway home of preserved 1101 unit i managed to ascertain the correct positioning for the lighting conduit.

 

This now leaves the question of the Lavatory piping which can be seen in some of your photos.

 

Mark

PS Like the website.

[meld]

Mark,

 

Glad to been of help .

 

Thanks for the kind comments re my Fotopic site, not added much to it recently - but lots to come over the next couple of months .

 

Mike.

[Ark Royal]

hi mark,not problems as such but a lot of cutting and shoving to get the motor to sit at the right height.this might be down to me but thought id mention it.shouldnt affect your kit as i did a southern unit years ago and the beetle fit straight underneath the floor.this is not a dig at the kits as i have done a few and they are first class.by the way i like what you have done with the seats aswell,this will be a good looking unit when its finished,kind regards,bob p.s heres a pic of my last dc kits effort

 

Hi Bob,

 

I think, as you've mentioned here, the back beetle now fits under the floor without the need to make a cut-out for the motor. This is why i've had problems with the floors, due to upgrades in the floors i've got a mismatch. Once again no dig at the manufacturers, had i not have started the interior seat fitting with the Trailer Second (the thinnest of all the floors supplied) i would have got away with building the floor up in that coach only. No interior at all = No problem.

 

Oh well you live by your mistakes and hopefully those that follow won't make the same mistake.

 

I have a hair brain idea to make the overhead luggage racks aswell, seen as it'll be lit! Spent some time this evening producing the artwork to have it etched from brass ~ though not entirely sure it will work and i'm having to learn Cad aswell so the process is long winded to say the least.

 

Quite fancy a go at "IRIS" too, but too many other things on the go at the moment!

 

Mark

[Colin parks]

Hi Ark Royal,

 

I've found your topic! Very good work indeed, especially the lighting you are installing. Will you be compensating the bogies?

 

Re. ride height: When I made a DC Kits 2 HAP, the recess for the Black Beetle motor bogie proved to be too low. I managed to remedy the matter by sawing off the top of the recess moulding and packing the piece up on plasticard spacers. This meant that the other bolsters had to be reduced in height. As you are modelling in P4, the flanges of the wheels will not foul the underside of the floor (as my 00 gauge Romfords did, resulting in a lot of scraping!). The result of lowering the body was worth the effort.

 

When it came to the door hinges on my model, which presumably are the same for all coaches of this type made by DC Kits, I gave up trying to get the etchings to line up on the door line and they seemed too flat. My solution was to dispense with the idea of representing the whole hinge with its mounting plate and just concentrate on getting the part which is most visible right i.e. the hasp, with the hinge pins lining up vertically. In the end it proved possible to superglue pieces of 20 thou plasticard into the grooves either side of the doors and get these in line horizontally. From a normal viewing distance, this gives a passable impression of the hinges with the lower ones standing off the tumblehome quite noticeably - as they should be.

 

Funnily enough, I have also been contemplating the matter of representing the luggage racks in my latest 'effort'. I look forward to seeing what you do about them. Etching is the most consistent method, Does anyone make an etch? Surely the chap who makes lamp tops should be persuaded to do so!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[Ark Royal]

Hi Ark Royal,

 

I've found your topic! Very good work indeed, especially the lighting you are installing. Will you be compensating the bogies?

 

Re. ride height: When I made a DC Kits 2 HAP, the recess for the Black Beetle motor bogie proved to be too low. I managed to remedy the matter by sawing off the top of the recess moulding and packing the piece up on plasticard spacers. This meant that the other bolsters had to be reduced in height. As you are modelling in P4, the flanges of the wheels will not foul the underside of the floor (as my 00 gauge Romfords did, resulting in a lot of scraping!). The result of lowering the body was worth the effort.

 

When it came to the door hinges on my model, which presumably are the same for all coaches of this type made by DC Kits, I gave up trying to get the etchings to line up on the door line and they seemed too flat. My solution was to dispense with the idea of representing the whole hinge with its mounting plate and just concentrate on getting the part which is most visible right i.e. the hasp, with the hinge pins lining up vertically. In the end it proved possible to superglue pieces of 20 thou plasticard into the grooves either side of the doors and get these in line horizontally. From a normal viewing distance, this gives a passable impression of the hinges with the lower ones standing off the tumblehome quite noticeably - as they should be.

 

Funnily enough, I have also been contemplating the matter of representing the luggage racks in my latest 'effort'. I look forward to seeing what you do about them. Etching is the most consistent method, Does anyone make an etch? Surely the chap who makes lamp tops should be persuaded to do so!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

 

 

Hi Colin,

 

Yes the bogies will be compensated (pictured in previous post)

 

Thanks for the info on the door hinges a long way off yet....... don't seem to be able to find the time to do any modeling at the moment.

Must admit i haven't had any luck at anyone making the etches for the luggage racks i hope now i've spent an age mastering the CAD program that my efforts aren't wasted in producing my own.

 

Here's the basic elements:

 

 

The plan so far, which is always open to changes, is to solder a wire to the centre line (pictured right, double and treble seats) which will create the vee. The wire then inserted into the bottom hole of the stanchion (pictured left) and soldered, this should set the correct distance for the seat. Two more wires are then inserted into the upper holes soldered and cut to length. Finally the upper wires can then be soldered to the the rack..... well that's the intention.

 

As for the wall racks i had planned on a back plate as well as those pictured (across the top) but space has, at the moment dictated the removal of them. Now these will just require the tangs bending and fitting to the respective wall.

 

Hope that makes sense

 

 

Mark

 

 

I think my fellow club members are all for having me committed to an institution but there you go each to their own.

[Colin parks]

Hello Ark Royal,

 

I have just re-readyour posts and it's now quite clear why the seats were built up in one interior. So you don't need to reply to the question I posed in my topic!

 

Those luggage racks will look great with the carriage lighting you are installing.

 

Allt the best,

 

Colin

[Ark Royal]

Hello Ark Royal,

 

I have just re-readyour posts and it's now quite clear why the seats were built up in one interior. So you don't need to reply to the question I posed in my topic!

 

Those luggage racks will look great with the carriage lighting you are installing.

 

Allt the best,

 

Colin

 

Thanks Colin for your comments.

 

For those reading the progress or lack of it ........ I have just been reliably informed that Marc models do some luggage racks for their 4-Cor unit ..... Thanks for the info 10800.

 

Seems fitting that i should post a link here

 

4-Cor Luggage Rack

 

Hopefully if all goes according to plan with the brass fret i'll post a version of mine as well

 

Mark

[Colin parks]

Thanks Colin for your comments.

 

For those reading the progress or lack of it ........ I have just been reliably informed that Marc models do some luggage racks for their 4-Cor unit ..... Thanks for the info 10800.

 

Seems fitting that i should post a link here

 

4-Cor Luggage Rack

 

Hopefully if all goes according to plan with the brass fret i'll post a version of mine as well

 

Mark

 

OK Mark,

 

I shall be looking at the difference between the two units, but using your own custom etchings might avoid the need for adaption.

 

Colin

[Ark Royal]

Hi All,

 

Received the "test" luggage rack etch back from the company today. Thought i'd post picture before i start assembling it.

 

 

 

Okay , i know it's not just the luggage racks now..... once you get the bug its hard to stop adding other bits you'd like to improve the kit. Hence the outer and inner radiator grilles (bottom right) and rubbing plate (top right). The full etch now will also have the cooling fan and anything else i can fit into the space......value for money and all that!!!

 

On inspection I'm happy (understated) with what has been produced from my very limited knowledge of CAD and the long slog to get it this far has been worth the frustrations along the way.

 

My thanks to the etching company as it was very rewarding when i opened the package and i was overwhelmed with feeling of deep satisfaction.What on earth will happen when the full etch arrives?

 

I might actually consider making the rails for the luggage racks thinner, but I'll reserve judgment until they've been assembled. Hopefully that will be this weekend if the garden doesn't take up all my time....ode to rain.

 

Mark

 

 

[Colin parks]

The luggage rack etch looks excellent Ark Royal.

 

It looks like a very professional production. Q.: Is it difficult to master the CAD process and get the parts to exact scale?

 

Colin

 

 

[Ark Royal]

The luggage rack etch looks excellent Ark Royal.

 

It looks like a very professional production. Q.: Is it difficult to master the CAD process and get the parts to exact scale?

 

Colin

 

 

 

Hi Colin,

 

Sorry this has turned into a long answer.

 

No not really, like many things time is consumed at a fast rate when your a "novice". I started out with a "freebie" from the web and without a manual I really didn't get on with the CAD package. I was going to throw in the towel and e.mailed what little I had achieved to the Etching Company and followed it up with a call. It turned out that I wasn't the only one to have had these problems.

 

Fortunately the company gave me some alternative CAD package names....so I had to start again as I couldn't import what i'd done on the 1st package. Once again this was another "freebie" except this time it had an on-line manual......albeit in techno-geek language.

 

CAD

 

The hardest part I found to achieve with regards to the CAD package itself was the use of "Layers". This is needed for the Etching Company to complete the etch process.In basic, the drawing you supply needs to be split down into several layers.

 

Etching Process - Layers Explained in English!!!!

 

Once again whether it was my unwillingness to print the 576 page long manual or just not reading the relevant section correctly I still struggled with the "layers" bit.

They were described to me as the following "Layers are essentially like putting a clear transparency over your drawing, each layer = another transparency". That led me to believe that I had to copy what was below onto the transparency..... this is the case except the term "copy".

 

It's worth mentioning here that these "layers" can be hidden or in-view and locked and unlocked. Being old fashion I tried in vane with the Copy, Paste commands. However that is not the case, well not with the package I used and I'm only guessing but it's probably the case with most of them.

 

To copy from one layer to another the layer they both have to be "in-view" and "unlocked". Its then just a case of highlighting the object you want copied and then switching to the layer it wants to be copied to. Don't forget to lock that layer before returning to another layer otherwise it can lead to all sorts of problems with parts on wrong layers. Once mastered it becomes second nature.

 

Another useful command is the "Make Block" feature which I will akin to as making a rubber stamp of part of your drawing. Doing this allows you then to stamp it back to the drawing as required. So like my etch you produce the part only once.......well handy.

 

The only real other point to bear in mind whilst drawing is that the Etching company do have limits and these are determined by the thickness of the material being etched. Things like hole diameters and line widths have to be adhered to if you want your etch to succeed.

 

As I've found out its hard to visualize what the finished article will look like in terms of line thicknesses for the racks. Mine were 0.5mm in width and the same for the gap, in truth and I may well change them, they could be thinner. I guess the only real way is to print the drawing off, but this doesn't show you how sturdy they'll be. The company I used did come up with the solution...... A test Etch.

 

Scale

 

I would imagine there is a way to produce it full size on a CAD package then scale it down..... but with my limit knowledge......it was back to the tried and tested way of ruler, calculator and plenty of headaches thrown in

 

I'm sure someone out there with more experience can inform us if the above can be achieved ?

 

For me, I try to work as close to scale as possible but with this project the thought of re-making the seats to correct sizes was a step to far. I traded scale for what i hope will be visually satisfying.

 

What i will say Colin is this,

 

If you are wanting multiple duplicated items with a good/ high level of detail in fine but strong material then this is the answer.

For me, i can honestly say it's been a steep learning curve, the results of which are satisfying to see..even without assembling them. I know that this started out as the luggage racks in that thought process was.....well if it don't work I've lost nothing..... Seeing the results it's confirmed that much more is not only possible but achievable. I certainly have more ideas in the pipline

 

This is in-part down to the Etching Company who check the drawing, advise of any changes needed and then produced a test etch for me.....whether they took pity on me or do this as a standard part of the service i can't answer. If it is then I applaude the Company.

 

What have you too loose ? A bit of time creating your dream !

 

In your own words: It looks like a very professional production.

And Mine: A novice. If i can achieve this so can you.

 

 

 

If you decide to give it a go then feel free to PM me if your stuck I'll always try to help with my limited knowledge.

If you need a file to peruse and work out how to achieve an etch then I'll gladly send you one of mine to play with.

 

Hope this Helps

 

Mark

 

[MikeTrice]

My gut feeling looking at the etch is that the rack "bars" are too heavy. Etchers are generally happy to let you etch down to a width equal to the thickness of the material. You can go beyond that, if you push them. Another option is to use a thinner material to start with which is OK if structural strength is not necessary as I would guess in this case. Third option is to etch just the racks in a thinner material and keep the rest in original thickness.

 

When creating artwork generally an etch factor is built in which allows the etching process to open up cut outs slightly larger than drawn. From experience I can tell you that different behaviours come into play where narrow slots are concerned.

 

My advice therefore would be to measure the resulting width of the rack crossbars, work out how they could be reduced given the material thickness, and adjust the drawing accordingly.

 

If it helps I have attached a photo from either a 2 or 4EPB which I suspect is similar. Good luck as it is a much needed item.

[Ark Royal]

My gut feeling looking at the etch is that the rack "bars" are too heavy. Etchers are generally happy to let you etch down to a width equal to the thickness of the material. You can go beyond that, if you push them. Another option is to use a thinner material to start with which is OK if structural strength is not necessary as I would guess in this case. Third option is to etch just the racks in a thinner material and keep the rest in original thickness.

 

When creating artwork generally an etch factor is built in which allows the etching process to open up cut outs slightly larger than drawn. From experience I can tell you that different behaviours come into play where narrow slots are concerned.

 

My advice therefore would be to measure the resulting width of the rack crossbars, work out how they could be reduced given the material thickness, and adjust the drawing accordingly.

 

If it helps I have attached a photo from either a 2 or 4EPB which I suspect is similar. Good luck as it is a much needed item.

 

Hi Mike,

 

Thanks for your opinion and information.

 

As mentioned earlier it was a case of "thinking that 0.5mm would be fine enough" but I am also of the opinion finer would probably be better. Fortunately it was just a Test Etch and so i have time and the latitude to make the adjustments.

 

In the same material I can leave the centre bar as is and make the outer bar 0.5mm (half its original depth) and make the intermediate bars 0.24 mm (half the original depth). Doing this will also increase the distances between each bar thus opening it up.

 

Another option is not to have it wrapped around the 3 Bars as per the prototype which would mean that the whole assembly could be split in half and made 0.24mm in all respects........might be a thought

 

As for the Wall Racks i can do the same and since the test etch has been away i have do to design change made the centre and outer struts half their depth already so that will help.

 

 

Thanks for the photo........ all i need now is a method to reproduce the "Trojan" moquette.

 

Any ideas or techniques gladly received ?

 

Mark

 

[MikeTrice]

Hi Mike,

 

Thanks for your opinion and information.

 

As mentioned earlier it was a case of "thinking that 0.5mm would be fine enough" but I am also of the opinion finer would probably be better. Fortunately it was just a Test Etch and so i have time and the latitude to make the adjustments.

 

In the same material I can leave the centre bar as is and make the outer bar 0.5mm (half its original depth) and make the intermediate bars 0.24 mm (half the original depth). Doing this will also increase the distances between each bar thus opening it up.

 

Another option is not to have it wrapped around the 3 Bars as per the prototype which would mean that the whole assembly could be split in half and made 0.24mm in all respects........might be a thought

 

As for the Wall Racks i can do the same and since the test etch has been away i have do to design change made the centre and outer struts half their depth already so that will help.

 

 

Thanks for the photo........ all i need now is a method to reproduce the "Trojan" moquette.

 

Any ideas or techniques gladly received ?

 

Mark

 

.5mm sounds a bit on the thick side (are you talking material thickness here? 12thou brass is quite common which works out around 0.3mm but you can go down to 10thou or even 8. For my own etchings it was extremely rare that it worked out first time without adjustment.

 

For the moquette I have seen recently (but cannot recall where), that you can print it on a colour printer onto matt paper then stick it over the seat as a covering.

[Ark Royal]

.5mm sounds a bit on the thick side (are you talking material thickness here? 12thou brass is quite common which works out around 0.3mm but you can go down to 10thou or even 8. For my own etchings it was extremely rare that it worked out first time without adjustment.

 

For the moquette I have seen recently (but cannot recall where), that you can print it on a colour printer onto matt paper then stick it over the seat as a covering.

 

Hi Mike,

 

No the brass is 8thou or 0.2mm thick so that means the bars can be 9.5thou or 0.24mm wide, half the width they are at present. I've been recommended to use 1.2 x thickness as a guide.

 

Hope that clears up the confusion.

 

Thanks for informing us that you too had to adjust your own etches before final production. Hopefully this will go some way to help those that may decide to produce their own etches, that what you have as pre-production doesn't mean that it's set in concrete and can be adjusted as necessary.

 

I've also seen the moquette produced this way as well, but like you can't remember where.....Don't suppose you have a picture of 1st class, or can recall them, as i think the seats in 1st were finished in a blue moquette?

 

I think I'd be right in saying most early BR DEMU/EMU stock seat furnishing would have been similarly finished.

 

 

Mark

[griffgriff]

My gut feeling looking at the etch is that the rack "bars" are too heavy. Etchers are generally happy to let you etch down to a width equal to the thickness of the material. You can go beyond that, if you push them. Another option is to use a thinner material to start with which is OK if structural strength is not necessary as I would guess in this case. Third option is to etch just the racks in a thinner material and keep the rest in original thickness.

 

When creating artwork generally an etch factor is built in which allows the etching process to open up cut outs slightly larger than drawn. From experience I can tell you that different behaviours come into play where narrow slots are concerned.

 

My advice therefore would be to measure the resulting width of the rack crossbars, work out how they could be reduced given the material thickness, and adjust the drawing accordingly.

 

If it helps I have attached a photo from either a 2 or 4EPB which I suspect is similar. Good luck as it is a much needed item.

 

You can just smell it can't you

[Ark Royal]

Back to the Drawing Board

 

Well I've soldered together the luggage rack~well the triple seat one anyway.

 

 

 

Sorry about the quality of the photos.....need a macro lens really.

 

As can be seen from the 2nd photo the whole side stanchion needs to be extended in the middle by another 1.7mm to achieve the required height.

 

Also as previously mentioned the luggage rack bars need to be finer !

 

On the plus side it's the 1st bit of actual modelling I've done in a long time.....discounting the club layout

 

Mark.

 

 

[Colin parks]

Hi Ark Royal,

 

You should get a medal for even attempting these luggage racks! I think that if you make the changes, as metioned in previous posts, they'll look mighty fine. Thanks for the detailed reply to my question re CAD design.

 

A friend has told me that there are even laser-cut plastic components available now which use the same basic design process as for brass etching.

 

Colin

[Pinkmouse]

Looking good Mark!

 

Have you thought about etching holes on the end frames and using wire for the racks? Would look even nicer, but much more work involved!

 

Oh, and ta for the manuals.

[Ark Royal]

Hi Ark Royal,

 

You should get a medal for even attempting these luggage racks! I think that if you make the changes, as metioned in previous posts, they'll look mighty fine. Thanks for the detailed reply to my question re CAD design.

 

A friend has told me that there are even laser-cut plastic components available now which use the same basic design process as for brass etching.

 

Colin

 

Hi Colin,

 

Yeap his correct they are called CAM Laser Cutters(Computer Aided Manufacturing) if you want to google it. Incidentally this months Scalefour News has a section on CAM cutter/plotters which do the same job put with a knife. Whilst reading it i thought of your build and how much easier it would have been to cut out all the window apertures etc... Though it comes with a heafty price tag!!!

 

And if that's not enough try this

 

Impossible Creations

 

Already started the re-work of the CAD file....Hope to be completed and at Company by Monday/Tuesday, fingers crossed.

 

Mark

[Ark Royal]

Looking good Mark!

 

Have you thought about etching holes on the end frames and using wire for the racks? Would look even nicer, but much more work involved!

 

Oh, and ta for the manuals.

 

Hi Pinkmouse,

 

 

There are already the 3 holes for the main bars, i guess i could put in 3 more each side the same diameter as those in the Rubbing Plate (Top Right) (yes there are holes in that piece they are 0.15mm) but that still leaves the cross struts to do.

 

If it was one or two then maybe but we're talking 32 in this unit alone......are you trying to send me to an institution ?

 

No i think i'll stick with the etch and make the widths 0.25mm rather than the 0.5mm (inside) 1mm (outside) they are now.

 

Mark

 

 

[MikeTrice]

Don't suppose you have a picture of 1st class, or can recall them, as i think the seats in 1st were finished in a blue moquette?

Unfortunately not, I only have exterior views and the 2&4EPBs of course did not have any. Found this which you may already be aware of: 3H Interior with blue moquette