Peco Parkside kits for a novice

[brossard]

I've used fine guitar wire for springing.  The curve it takes on is useful for that purpose.  IIRC it usually comes rolled up so difficult to straighten.  Ordering from the likes of Hatton's or Eileens is actually more convenient than schlepping to a B&M hobby shop.  If I order online, I usually get my stuff within a week or so.

 

John

[Steamport Southport]

Recommending books and missing out this one?

 

https://www.abebooks.co.uk/9781871608564/Best-Plastic-Wagon-Kits-Rice-1871608562/plp

 

The Ready To Run Detailing one is worth picking up as well. You should get either for less than a tenner. Don't overpay on eBay and second hand book websites.

 

 

 

Jason

[brossard]

Yep, I have a lot of books by Rice, including the one you linked to.  Good catch.

 

John

[polybear]

 

On 31/03/2020 at 19:25, JohnR said:

 

Whats the best source for the brass rod to improve the underframe? I always find the plastic provided just seems to be a smidgen too short.

 

 

A good source would also be Hobby Holidays

 

On 31/03/2020 at 20:19, brossard said:

Avoid wire in rolls, there's just no straightening it.

 

John

 

Put one end in a vice (that's fixed to a bench!) and pull the other end quite hard with a pair of pliers - that usually does the trick (you'll feel the wire stretch - don't overdo it)

Edited April 2, 2020 by polybear

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

As well as the aforementioned books, a much cheaper way to learn how to go about kitbuilding is to search this very forum, excellent resources such as this one are available;

 

 

Mike.

Edited April 2, 2020 by Enterprisingwestern

[brossard]

7 hours ago, polybear said:

 

 

A good source would also be Hobby Holidays

 

 

Put one end in a vice (that's fixed to a bench!) and pull the other end quite hard with a pair of pliers - that usually does the trick (you'll feel the wire stretch - don't overdo it)

 

Why bother, just buy the straight stuff from one of the places listed above.

 

John

[brossard]

7 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

As well as the aforementioned books, a much cheaper way to learn how to go about kitbuilding is to search this very forum, excellent resources such as this one are available;

 

 

 

Absolutely Mike, I have posted many threads describing my kit builds and upgrade projects in both 4mm and 7mm.  I like to share and help if I can.

 

If you don't find a thread on your particular project or have questions, RMweb is the place to get answers.  I have done that many times, always with great success.

 

Being an old f**t, I still believe in paper books.  The interthingy still doesn't have the sort of detail I need.  Wiki can be quite useful.  Google pics can also be useful, but the majority that come up are often not related to my query.

 

John

[polybear]

37 minutes ago, brossard said:

 

Why bother, just buy the straight stuff from one of the places listed above.

 

John

 

Stretching a piece of wire in the vice is quicker, costs now't, and is much faster than the postman :)

[MonsalDan]

For Parkside GWR open wagons, what's the best way of adding springing/compensation?

[brossard]

Edited to remove 7mm non relevant references.  My bad.

 

John

Edited April 2, 2020 by brossard

[MonsalDan]

What about in 4mm?  Are the wagon axleboxes loose then?  What is the best compensation to use in EM gauge?

[brossard]

Yeah sorry, I have 7mm on the brain.  You can get sprung W irons for 4mm:

 

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=4136&name=4mm-w-irons&Itemid=189

 

There are also rocking W iron kits:

 

https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2290.php

 

https://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2291.php

 

The above will work for all; 00, EM and probably P4.  I think you can get away without comp. for EM but compensation is better.

 

There was some excellent stuff sold by C&L before the sale.  It's not there now.  I'm having a senior moment and can't remember.

 

Let us not forget Brassmasters, an excellent model engineering outfit:

 

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/

 

HTH

 

John

Edited April 2, 2020 by brossard

[MonsalDan]

That's great, thank you!

[gary_lner]

Goos afteroon all. I hope everyone is staying safe.

Well it's taken a few days to get back to the wagon but as I had a day off I thought I'd try and finish the kit. I removed the extra V hanger that I shouldn't have glued on in the first place and I think I've ended up with a good first effort at a kit. The brake rigging is very fiddly bit I guess that gets easier with practice. I've still got to add couplings and some weight to the wagon and glue the roof on but I'll do all that when they are all built and ready to be painted. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

Regards Gary

[brossard]

In case you are interested here are pics of my 7mm van, also from Parkside:

 

 

 

I'm something of a lunatic when it comes to underframe detailing.  You can see the vacuum pipe that wends its way from end to end.  I also added a piece of bent wire for the connection from cylinder to pipe.  Something I can't fathom is how kit makers (and I haven't found an exception) ignore the safety loops around the brake yokes.

 

This is an example of what can be done to improve an already good kit.  No reason why a 4mm model can't be detailed similarly.

 

HTH

 

John

Edited April 19, 2020 by brossard

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, brossard said:

 Something I can't fathom is how kit makers (and I haven't found an exception) ignore the safety loops around the brake yokes.

 

I'd guess there are several reasons : -

 

1]  many modellers would find them too fiddly to fit;

 

2]  many modellers - probably the same ones as in 1] - don't notice the absence of such fine detail;

 

3]  fitting safety loops makes it difficult / impossible to remove wheel-sets for maintenance / cleaning.

 

John Isherwood.

[Enterprisingwestern]

3 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

3]  fitting safety loops makes it difficult / impossible to remove wheel-sets for maintenance / cleaning.

 

 

Not if you snip them in the middle as I have to do to the Bachmann ones to change the wheelset, it's not noticeable.

 

Mike.

[brossard]

You are building a model, fiddly things come with the territory.

 

I'm making a model of the wagon.  I try to represent important details whether or not they can be seen.

 

John

Edited April 19, 2020 by brossard

[cheesysmith]

6 hours ago, gary_lner said:

Goos afteroon all. I hope everyone is staying safe.

Well it's taken a few days to get back to the wagon but as I had a day off I thought I'd try and finish the kit. I removed the extra V hanger that I shouldn't have glued on in the first place and I think I've ended up with a good first effort at a kit. The brake rigging is very fiddly bit I guess that gets easier with practice. I've still got to add couplings and some weight to the wagon and glue the roof on but I'll do all that when they are all built and ready to be painted. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

Regards Gary

 

Nice for a early effort. Just look at the buffers. They need a trim with a sharp blade because of where they came off the sprue. This on its own is a good reason to use either LMS/Mr Franks cast buffers or replacement steel heads. As for adding mass, I found 2p coins perfect for vans, about 6p inside with some superglue to hold in place.

[brossard]

Flamin' 'eck, I've done it again.  This is a 4mm kit, not 7mm.

 

Agree, replacing those buffers with some from Lanarkshire models would be a great improvement.

 

John

Edited April 19, 2020 by brossard

[Enterprisingwestern]

14 minutes ago, cheesysmith said:

 

As for adding mass, I found 2p coins perfect for vans, about 6p inside with some superglue to hold in place.

 

One and tuppence ha'penny, go steady man!

 

Mike.

[cheesysmith]

with the devaluing of british legal tender, 6p in coins is cheaper than what some people charge for ballast weights.

 

Like a true Yorkshire man, with pockets deeper than his arms lol

[cctransuk]

4 hours ago, brossard said:

You are building a model, fiddly things come with the territory.

 

I'm making a model of the wagon.  I try to represent important details whether or not they can be seen.

 

John

 

The operative words there are "You" and "I'm" - you assume that your requirements / aspirations apply to all prospective purchasers of these kits.

 

I would submit that only a minority of those potential purchasers would want to fit brakegear safety loops. As one of that minority, you apparently have the skills and commitment to produce and fit that level of detail - but provision of the necessary parts would be wasted on most purchasers.

 

Indeed, I would imagine that you too would not use such parts if they were provided, on the grounds that production restraints would make them overscale. You presumably use wire to make safety loops - something that any modeller, concerned enough about such details, would be able to do. So where is the problem?

 

I too have the necessary skills, but I follow the Tony Wright philosophy of producing 'layout stock'. In common with many other modellers; (the majority?); I don't feel that reproducing the minutae of rollings stock under-gubbins is necessary in order to create the impression of the era that I am trying to represent.

 

Each to their own - but please do not try and impose your own exacting standards on the rest of the hobby.

 

John Isherwood.

Edited April 19, 2020 by cctransuk

[Phil Bullock]

Funny isnt it? You learn as you go along - a few years ago I wouldnt have fretted about safety loops but now add them with NS wire where indicated.

 

For my own education please ..... what exactly was their purpose, what were they keeping safe?

[great central]

1 hour ago, cheesysmith said:

with the devaluing of british legal tender, 6p in coins is cheaper than what some people charge for ballast weights.

 

Like a true Yorkshire man, with pockets deeper than his arms lol

 

Wilko do pick n mix bags of fixings that including large steel washers. A couple of quid gets loads, best thing about them is with the hole they can be positioned right above the pivot on a bogie vehicle.