Philou Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) Not much on the modelling front today but I did manage to get the last two signals through the paintshop. I'm quite happy with the finish, though it was a fiddle doing the dollies through the metalwork. A light wash of black to tone it down. I think for an old kit, it does scrub up quite well. Tomorrow another bracketed signal, this time a Home Starter on a warren(?) truss bracket. I'll have a little fiddling to do as it was originally for a round post but I'm using it on a timber one. Here's a photo of today's output: Cheers, Philip Edited May 22, 2020 by Philou 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted May 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) On 21/05/2020 at 20:58, 96701 said: Here are some 0603 leds from China. Had to wait a while for them, but they do seem to work. I'm trying out some 0603 led from Kytes Lights. Six for £5 with wires attached. This is the first one, it proved a devil to get any glue to stick to the wires so I ended up with a bit of handrail wire: I might ring them up next week. The only solution I can think of is to put heatshrink sleeving over the wires and then glue onto this, but this approach needs a third wire as a stiffener to hold everything straight. - Richard. Edited May 23, 2020 by 47137 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted May 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2020 35 minutes ago, 47137 said: I'm trying out some 0603 led from Kytes Lights. Six for £5 with wires attached. This is the first one, it proved a devil to get any glue to stick to the wires so I ended up with a bit of handrail wire: I might ring them up next week. The only solution I can think of is to put heatshrink sleeving over the wires and then glue onto this, but this approach needs a third wire as a stiffener to hold everything straight. - Richard. I recently bought a bottle of the UV activated super glue from Deluxe, I used some yesterday to secure wires on a circuit board, it is quite a thick consistency and not so runny and dries clear, I wondered if a blob over the LED would look like a round/eleptical bulkhead light, and it’ll keep it nice and secure, you could then just put a little tension on the wires to under the board and secure there? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted May 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2020 25 minutes ago, boxbrownie said: I recently bought a bottle of the UV activated super glue from Deluxe, I used some yesterday to secure wires on a circuit board, it is quite a thick consistency and not so runny and dries clear, I wondered if a blob over the LED would look like a round/eleptical bulkhead light, and it’ll keep it nice and secure, you could then just put a little tension on the wires to under the board and secure there? Sounds like a plan. This particular LED is a cool white and I might try a blob of amber paint for car headlamps to begin with. Try to tone it in with the other LEDs on the model. - Richard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philou Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 @47137 I've used the next size down in LEDs, 0402s, and these I've secured to my signals with runny and gel-superglue. I used a small piece of sellotape to hold it in place and then a dab of superglue either side and with a cocktail stick just run it up and down (but not over the sellotape) and when 'gone off' removed the sellotape and finished off with the glue. I also found holding the wires in tension helped in getting a better finish. If I remember, I'll take some pictures showing what I did on the next signal. I haven't coloured any of the LEDs nor have I glued the LEDs themselves as I wanted to avoiding any possibility of clouding which can happen on certain surfaces. Cheers, Philip Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted May 23, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2020 A mini lighthouse caricature for the tinplate sand railway and a bunker slowly sinking into the sands 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artless Bodger Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) Well, the turntable has progressed, and is now awaiting the painters. It works after a fashion, in that I can drive a loco on and off without too much finger pokery, but rotation is entirely digital . in the meantime, as Head Gardener is digging for victory, the railway workshop has been turned over to 'munitions', turning unused 60 thou plastic sheet into desperately needed plant labels. Edited May 23, 2020 by Artless Bodger Edited for punctuation. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted May 24, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 24, 2020 21 hours ago, Philou said: @47137 I've used the next size down in LEDs, 0402s, and these I've secured to my signals with runny and gel-superglue. I used a small piece of sellotape to hold it in place and then a dab of superglue either side and with a cocktail stick just run it up and down (but not over the sellotape) and when 'gone off' removed the sellotape and finished off with the glue. I also found holding the wires in tension helped in getting a better finish. If I remember, I'll take some pictures showing what I did on the next signal. I haven't coloured any of the LEDs nor have I glued the LEDs themselves as I wanted to avoiding any possibility of clouding which can happen on certain surfaces. Cheers, Philip I have discovered, Humbrol acrylic matt varnish bonds to these LEDs and their wires easily. I'm using it to hold the wires in place. It ought to be possible to repeatedly dip an LED into the pot of varnish and build up a "lens" to represent some kind of lamp too. - Richard. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6775 Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 Think I may have started this before 'lock down' but it is now as good as done. Once installed it will likely get some further weathering and gutters/drain pipes and maybe even an interior. Welcome to the Waggon & Horses. Based on Intentio's half relief pub with some tweaks to make it fit our remit, more pictures of the build and aother builds can be found over on my layout thread in the 7mm section. High St (A working Title) 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 (edited) A light-hearted diversion that's been waiting on the Shelf of Doom too long.... My third (& probably last) old Atlas/Roco O Scale Plymouth Switcher:- Number 30 gets a bit closer to joining the Portway Terminal Short Line roster.... Today it's had a Digitrax decoder fitted, Kadee couplers fitted, bodyshell painted, and numbers/lettering added. Still to do - matt varnish the shell, add glazing, fit headlights & beacon, fit handrails, and find a driver. The three of them consist up quite well together, but don't need Sound - they make enough racket between them growling around the layout!!! Edited May 25, 2020 by F-UnitMad 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted May 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 26, 2020 I have had an umber of items in various scales and gauges that required further work so during the last few days I have fitted a decoder into a Merchant Navy weathered it and given it a good run on the High Line. The bagpipe class 33 wich is now being used on the 4TC set has had a the weathering that I did by brush many years ago improved using the airbrush. The Adams radial tank is the last of the three Lyme regis ones that I required and is a recent 2nd hand purchase in mint conidtion but the factory fitted 8 pinsocket was wrongly wired so this was stripped out and the decoder hard wried . The photo shows it after weathering but just before the coal load was added. And lastly a few years ago I picked up another pack of three Florida East Coast Ortner hoppers to go with my first three that were weathered and detailed some years earlier. The two in the photo have had the wire grab rails fitted and require the weathering touching up as I had only realised they needed adding after weathering the freight cars. The last car will have to wait till I can get some more packets of these details Associates grab rails but they are hard to find even in the USA these days. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted May 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 26, 2020 Had a bit of time on Sunday, so made this little diorama. 11 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted May 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 26, 2020 2 hours ago, Stubby47 said: Had a bit of time on Sunday, so made this little diorama. There must be a certain pleasure in completing a model in an afternoon instead of a month or more :-) Is the inset track a test piece or your usual technique? - Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted May 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 26, 2020 Hi Richard, It was nice to be in the garage with the main door open to the sunshine. The inset track was just an experiment, to see how I could replicate the rails and flange protection bars in a road surface, Given that this it 7mm scale, the inner rails are 4mm Code 75, just a short piece I had to hand. I stripped the sleepers off this section and just cut a shallow groove in the foam board. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted May 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 26, 2020 47 minutes ago, Stubby47 said: Hi Richard, It was nice to be in the garage with the main door open to the sunshine. The inset track was just an experiment, to see how I could replicate the rails and flange protection bars in a road surface, Given that this it 7mm scale, the inner rails are 4mm Code 75, just a short piece I had to hand. I stripped the sleepers off this section and just cut a shallow groove in the foam board. Thanks for this. I didn't guess it was 0 scale. I will have to tackle some inset track on my next layout. I have had modest success by making track from code 75 FB rail soldered onto pcb sleepers, set to 16.2 mm gauge (to make the flangeways narrower) and adding inner rails from code 65 FB rail. Next time, I want to try something like 1/16 inch brass 'L' angle for the inner "rails". Something which lets the road surface end up below the running rails (so I can clean still them), and lets me define the flangeway, and, doesn't really show on the finished model. - Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlenPudzeoch Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 There are some very inspiring proejcts being worked on here - well done to all, and in World of Model Railaays some great ideas including Hornby's lockdown introduction to model railways, and other newsworthy items. i woudl post this there but it seems comments are not open). My suggestion is that the writers or BRM editors put these articles to eithert the Press association or to media outlets. This could be a way to introduce individuals to the hobby or at the least let people know that a hobby is an exprememnt good way to deal with lockdown. I am surprised this has not been done earlier by any source, including Hornby or any of the other manufacturers. No doubt there will be naysayers who delight in advising "not everyone can afford a model train" - true, but would you rather the repetative droning we are getting about the situation or the revving of the current outrage bus? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philou Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Hello chums, Not much advance recently on the modelling front (grandchildren + home-work + cat + vet) as time was a tad short, but I did manage to finish the Warren trussed Starter signal today. The real thing has a retaining stay attached to the top and then raked back into a nearby embankment. This I shall model once the signal is placed in its correct position. Here be signals: Tomorrow I'll make a start on a Starter Junction signal. It'll be a lash-up from the box of bitsa. Or maybe a Backing signal with its Theatre box ................ Cheers, Philip 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philou Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 PS: I also need to add handrails and stanchions to all the bracket signals - I haven't decided how to tackle those. I may have to do them after I've sorted the mechanisms - and the ladders of course, last, as these are rather fragile. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Phil Mc Posted May 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 28, 2020 Since my previous SI update (11April, top of page 4), I've got a bit more stuff done- Turned this- Into this (straight detailing, repaint & weathered) This started as a 37415, so just needed nose-end lampbrackets removing, detailing, renumber & weathered. It will gain nameplates & diamond plaques when I get them. This has been detailed, load added & weathered. This has had passengers added, the curtains removed from the windows & weathered. Some work has been carried out on my MOD train, including- These have had loads added. (I had previously weathered the wagons) These- have been weathered, the loads built & added. These have been built, to go on a KFA wagon in the MOD train. These have been weathered- And a couple of projects for my up-to-date era- This- has turned into this. And these newly released coaches- have been populated & weathered. Seems a shame to go back to work........ Cheers, Phil. 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted May 29, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 29, 2020 You have been a busy boy! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted May 29, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 29, 2020 3 hours ago, boxbrownie said: You have been a busy boy! I was going to post a pic of a home-made fluorescent tube using a nano LED. Seeing this lot I've put the computer aside and rebuilt one of the link sections of my layout. So it's now sitting on dedicated shelf brackets, not propped up on furniture, boxes and a camera tripod. Phil they all look great. - Richard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNER4479 Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 (edited) On 30/03/2020 at 09:22, AY Mod said: As modellers run out of excuses to put off getting some modelling done with more time at home than we were anticipating it would be great to see what modellers are achieving. We'd like to select some of the best content to include in our weekly newsletters, BRM magazine and our World of Railways website. Projects on your workbench, scenes from your layouts or some light-hearted activities would be great to see within this topic. Well, I'm not strictly speaking SI (although I am largely staying at home) and I rarely need an excuse to do some modelling; but thought I'd enter into the spirit, very much in the light-hearted vein. A particular loco type that I've long had a fascination for is: Made it my business to be in the States last year when this magnificent beast breathed steam once again. But I'm not a US modeller! And it's rather an expensive purchase just to say I've got one. However, other options exist ... Bought this some years ago - think it cost me £16. But it's been sitting in a drawer ever since, waiting for ... well, what the heck, when exactly AM I going to build the thing? So here we go (I've not made a plastic kit for years ... other than the odd wagon kit). Part No.1 and I'm into tinkering with the thing straightaway. The main handrail is a solid casting as part of the main boiler part - bit too crude for my liking so out with the cutters. And the knife. And the files. That's better! Used up my entire stock of 'long' handrail knobs in one go (but I never use them for anything else these days). More fiddling. Whilst I don't intend motorising it as such, I would like the wheels to go round as smoothly as possible in 'push along' mode. So I made up a series of washers to stop the wheels rubbing on the sides of the chassis blocks and to reduce the overall 'slop'. Not shown are some weights added to the bottom of the chassis blocks to encourage the wheels to stay on the rails. And - in a moment of true madness - I've decided to add brake rigging as it all looks a bit bare without them. Wheels now fitted with boiler unit (now sprayed satin black) temporarily plonked on top. Looks a bit ungainly at this stage - needs the front and rear bogies but they'll have to wait for now. Definitely look a bit weird on Shap! But the first push along test was successful, ran smoothly, all wheels stayed on the rails and it negotiated corners perfectly OK. So the washers and weights certainly not doing any harm. More soon! Edited May 30, 2020 by LNER4479 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted May 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 30, 2020 (edited) I have failed miserably with the electronics, so I have now moved to bolting new baseboard sections together so that I can play with tracklaying. Edited May 31, 2020 by 96701 Photo had my name and partial address on a letter. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium pgcroc Posted May 31, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2020 Philip, probably not a good idea to leave the Santander letter in the picture with your address on. Have a good day. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted May 31, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2020 1 hour ago, pgcroc said: Philip, probably not a good idea to leave the Santander letter in the picture with your address on. Have a good day. A PM might have been more discreet. Rob. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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