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Conversion for 4x OO Tension Lock Coupling types


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Morning all,

 

I'm hoping to change the tension lock couplings on all of my OO rolling stock to the narrow type (that is, all of my stock without NEM pockets). Of course I have various starting points, so I was wondering if anyone could help identify whether any ready-to-use options are available for the four types shown in the image?

 

I've got as far as identifying an option for coupling 1 as Hornby's R8099 Coupling Assembly Pack, and that couplings 3 and 4 will probably take the same type:

 

  1. Hornby R8099 Coupling Assembly Pack
  2. ?
  3. ?
  4. ?

 

Any help greatly appreciated!

 

Regards, Rob

 

OO_Couplings.png

Edited by Rob Haigh
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What have you got in your NEM pocket equipped vehicles? would be my first question. I experimented with the miniature tension locks on

Bachmann and Hornby stock and quickly concluded that there was incompatibility due to slight differences in design. Using just one pattern

- either make - was reliable. My decision was to go with a single maker's coupler on the basis of the one I had most of at the time. That

happened to be Bachmann so I know more about the fittings they offer. I would use their long and short screw on pattern for all four of the

vehicles you want to refit, but cannot advise on the Hornby equivalents.

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Now, you've just brought up one of those things that get Johnster on his soap box...

 

Your photos show my bone of contention; what is alleged to be a standard and compatible coupling specification is anything but.  Even NEM couplings differ in bar and hook profile, and it is clearly best to standardise on a single type for your layout's stock in order to maintain reliable coupling, reliable upcoupling, and prevent buffer lock.  Do not quote me but I think your examples are:-

 

2) Mainline/Replica/early Bachmann loco mounted.

3) Ditto wagon mounted.

4) Triang Hornby/Hornby, or possibly Wrenn/Dapol, loco mounted.

 

There are essentially 3 different types of mounting; a clip in type for rigid framed wagons, a riveted or screw fix type for locos (they have to attach to a mazak chassis block), and the various bogie/pony truck integrally moulded or clip in types.  Add the different take from each manufacturer; Hornby, Lima, Mainline, Airfix, Wrenn/Dapol, kit versions from Parkside, Ratio, and the like, and one begins to see the attraction of a standard NEM coupling.  Trouble is that NEM has failed to establish standard profiles or distances from the buffer beams, though there is a standard height above railhead at least in theory; in practice I've had different heights on the ends of the same loco!

 

My recent history with tension locks came about after realising on returning to the hobby after a 25 year sabbatical that my hand/eye coordination, hand steadiness, and patience were no longer up to the task of managing scale instanter or screw couplings.  This necessitate a reversion to tension locks which I'd had nothing to do with since my early teens over 50 years ago.  The job was to 1) standardise on a coupling type (Bachmann NEM as the bulk of my new RTR purchases would come from this maker) and 2) retrofit it to such of my older stock as had survived the hiatus (in the event I gave up and replaced the chassis with Parksides or donor Bachmanns).  

 

Bachmann NEMs are not a standard coupling; in order to cope with different mounting requirements they come in 4 forms, long/short, straight/cranked.  My biggest problem was mounting them, and the solution to it is the Parkside NEM coupling mounting block, available as a separate item with 10 on a sprue, 4 sprues in a pack, enough for 20 vehicles but you'll be surprised how quickly you get through them.  These are made of soft plastic and have the dovetail to plug the coupling into.  By trimming the top surface or packing the block away from the wagon floor, you can get one of the Bachmann types to sit at the correct height above the rail.  AFAIk only Parkside do these blocks, and I reckon the other companies are missing a trick here.  They are essential for retrofitting older stock and for kit builds, and for any current Hornby Railroad items which still have the previous type of couplings.  These include last year's re-introductions such as Lord Of The Isles and the shorty clerestories (good name a band)

 

On older pre-NEM stock (including current Railroad) you will need to cut the original mounting block away, and on bogie stock or locos may have to devise/bodge your own 'mounting block mounting block'.  If you have GW bogie stock to fit NEMs to, Stafford Road, a Shapeways 3D commissioner, have a pretty comprehensive range of them with NEM pockets printed in.  But it's a lot more faff than it should be.

 

I'm making an assumption here that, like me, you have older stock that you want to upgrade.  My version of this is not just couplings; buffers and wheels need replacing as well.  It is obviously conducive to good running to standardise as far as possible on a wheel profile, and I have eliminated plastic wheels from my layout; my track and consequently everything to do with electrical pick up continuity is much cleaner and my running is better as a result.  My go to wheels are Hornby.  I also specify that brake blocks should align with the wheels; this is a bit of an odd one in that you are sacrificing scale for the sake of appearance, as the wheel gauge is incorrect, but my view is that the alignment of brake blocks to wheels is more important even though you have knowingly put the brake blocks in the wrong position.  I have now eliminated such chassis from my layout.  The third factor is handbrake levers; a good thing about current production is that they are separate and not a moulded part of the chassis (Airfix, Ratio, and Peco construction kits got this right 6 decades ago!).  I have one or two recalcitrant oddities, but am hoping to dispose of those soon.  

 

Buffers of various profiles are available from Dart Castings, Comet, Lanarkshire Models, MJT, and others, either turned brass or cast whitemetal.  They are a massive improvement over older RTR types, which were often too small and plastic blobby in shape.  These plastic mushrooms are still supplied in some kits.  Metal replacements, especially turned brass, are one of the cheapest ways to improve an older model or a Railroad.  Many of these older items had perfectly adequate body toolings, and are available s/h for shrapnel, but the wheels, couplings, and buffers are dreadful.  Older Triang and Triang Hornby stock sits 2mm too high above the rail as well, but the body mouldings are generally fine.  Beware of Triang/Triang Hornby/Hornby, and Hornby Dublo/Wrenn/Dapol 16ton minerals which have an incorrect 10' wheelbase generic chassis; only Bachmann do these with the correct 9' chassis RTR but at £22 a pop you don't want to be using these in a 60 wagon train...  The antediluvian Airfix, now Kitmaster, and the Parkside, kits are much better value for money but of course need time to build.

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A solution I did years ago when I used tension locks was where possible fit different ones at either end of a wagon, and each wagon had a card index colour coded to show the couplings on either end. So making a train up entailed trying to ensure the same or well compatiable couplings went together. In the photos 4 is clearly Hornby of the moulded plastic type. The earlier X171 coupling with its metal loop was a tension lock I found all other hooks would attach to so where possible shunting engines has a X171 coupling with its hook removed.

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Many thanks for the excellent and detailed replies, however my intention is not to just identify the types of coupling shown in the images as shown, nor to add NEM pockets to the stock that doesn't currently have them. 

 

What I'm trying to do is find easy to source narrow couplings that would fit each of the items above.

 

For example, I know that coupling 1 is of the old Dapol/Airfix type, but I have identified that Hornby's R8099 couplings would be an option to fit this stock with narrow couplings (see image included with this post). I'm trying to find out what replacement narrow couplings would be accepted by 2, 3 and 4.

 

P.S. The Johnster, I have also recently eliminated all plastic wheels from my current stock, also favouring Hornby's metal ones. The visual difference too is worth mentioning!

 

Cheers, Rob

 

20200331_202617.jpg

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For the screw fitting types which 2, 3 and 4 in your pictures appear to be I use Bachmann Mini Loop Screw-On Coupling Short 36-025

 

https://www.Bachmann.co.uk/product/category/156/mini-loop-screw-on-coupling-short-(x10)/36-025

 

Or possibly the longer version, 36-026 if you're worried about sharp curves.

 

I wasn't aware of R8099, but for wagons with that type of fitting I seek out the old Airfix tension lock couplings second hand at toy fairs etc. as the mounting was originally designed for them, and their length keeps the vehicles buffers a suitable distance apart.  Another way is to use Bachmann 36-026 and cut the side lugs off; they then fit under the clip fitting retainer.

 

I tend to regard Bachmann and Hornby couplings as compatible with one another but prefer Bachmann from choice (the hook is slightly shorter).  The Airfix design has the hook in the centre so there is more chance of the hooks colliding with each other when they're being coupled together, but as the number of wagons I have with those couplings is small it doesn't happen very often.

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For types 2,3, and 4 try Bachmann spares parts No. 36-025 (short) and 36-026 (long).  Both are screw on with same / similar screw and 2 pin mount.  I've happily used these on some of my older Tri-Ang / Hornby / Mainline stock.

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17 hours ago, Rob Haigh said:

 

P.S. The Johnster, I have also recently eliminated all plastic wheels from my current stock, also favouring Hornby's metal ones. The visual difference too is worth mentioning!

 

Sure is!  Another advantage, though not everyone in the house will agree, is the noise.

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Perfect, thanks 31A and knitpick, I was not aware of Bachmann's 36-025 or 36-026.

 

Having had a quick Google/eBay of them I think they're the solution I was looking for for my example couplings 2, 3 and 4 (even if they might require some of the edging taking off for 2 and 4).

 

I will order some 36-025 for now and see how they cope with the curves, although they are quite gentle.

 

Thanks all!

 

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