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Bachmann Collett Coach into a GWR K40 full brake


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This is a Bachmann/mainline collett coach except the sides have been stripped and some K40 full brake sides attached from comet models . The K40 brakes were of course bow-end coaches but i suppose this could pass as a K41 ,K42 or maybe a K45 with some Imagination. Here is the Frame with my usual coach weathering , the bogies it comes with need to have the underside whittled down before attaching a NEM socket / pocket. On the other end is a Bedford coupling which I'm using for this current train but I only have a couple. Pictures of the Body when primed will follow.

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So its been a while , as its taken a while for me to get the right parts , but now the body's primed . Door and end handles are from wire and the door handle niches are plastikard as it was easier to drill through them .  The interior will be two walls , shelf , bench and brake lever in the guards compartment .some extra hoses needed for the end . To add on later are some handles for roof maintenance stairs . On of the few inaccuracies are the water tanks but they don't bother me as well as the steps which match in a few places but im not bothered by .

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I also have Comet K40 sides, but I was planning to use the Hornby/Airfix B-set as a donor as it's right length, bow-ended and has 7' bogies. The underframe would need a rebuild. The main thing stopping me from starting down that route is the continuous step boards, just don't look right on a full brake. I need to see if they can be cut off somehow.

 

Your end result looks closer to a K41 at a glance because of the 9' bogies and flat ends. Obviously the doors/windows are K40 though.

 

I'm currently making a BSL K38, and I found it made a surprising difference adding door hinges (by Frogmore Confederacy, via Dart Castings website).

 

Please post finished pictures.

 

Steve 

IMG_7177.JPG

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Brilliant, I am part way through doing a K38 using a Hornby collett coach and Comet sides. I will interested to see how you get on with painting it, masking etc.  I am assuming you'll have fitted door and grab handles etc.

 

Rob

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Interesting to see these. I'm doing a K40 in O using a Dapol B set as a donor. I will probably draw up sides as an etch.

 

Can anyone recommend a scale drawing? There is one in Russell but i think the door and windows positions are indicative rather than accurate.

 

 

 

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23 hours ago, RobMG said:

Brilliant, I am part way through doing a K38 using a Hornby collett coach and Comet sides. I will interested to see how you get on with painting it, masking etc.  I am assuming you'll have fitted door and grab handles etc.

 

Rob

 

The Hornby Colletts make great donors apart from the continuous stepboards if the original didn't have them. I can't see an easy way to remove them, if you managed it please share! I lived with that for my H33 upgrade (see https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131072-improving-Hornby-restaurant-coach/) but it's the one thing I wish I could fix. It wasn't an issue for the K38 as I bought it part-built and the sides, ends and chassis were all glued together. I'm going to fit door handles, grab rails and droplights after painting. (The latter I will paint before attaching). 

 

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23 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Interesting to see these. I'm doing a K40 in O using a Dapol B set as a donor. I will probably draw up sides as an etch.

 

Can anyone recommend a scale drawing? There is one in Russell but i think the door and windows positions are indicative rather than accurate.

 

 

 

 

There's two in Russell. The second one (I think p182) is pretty good. Lining up my Comet sides with the drawing, all the doors and windows are pretty much spot on, except for the middle double doors, which are 6" too far to the left in the drawing.  Here's my sides and the Comet drawing in case it helps.

 

 

IMG_7196.JPG

Edited by scratcher
clarification
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1 hour ago, scratcher said:

Here's my sides and the Comet drawing in case it helps.

Yes, many thanks.

 

I debated for ages whether to get the main book or the appendix and sods law may have plumped for the wrong one but I think I can work something up now.

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A good point re the stepboards, I will look seriously at that problem.  

Painting... I wondered if you would paint first.  but then how to attach the bits after is the next problem. I imagine it is going to have to be superglue, but i am not too happy about trusting it.  I think I would fit the handles etc and apply a small amount on the inside.   I certainly will not use the very low viscosity glue, because it will run through any gap and knacker the paintwork, but is the strongest glue.  It will have to be something like Gorrilla superglue which I use a fair amount of, and seems to be as good as anything. 

Getting to this stage worries me rather.  

 

Rob

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6 hours ago, scratcher said:

I use Zap-A-Gap Medium (green label). It's viscous enough to stay put. And it bonds pretty much all types of plastic.

I will bear that one in mind, It sounds very useful, but unless it also bonds metal to metal it won't work for the Comet sides. These being brass etchings and the door/grab handles, and hinges are also brass.  

 

Rob

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I don't see a problem with removing portions of the stepboards on the Hornby underframe.   But I have a Comet underframe kit for this model,  in which case maybe I don't need to worry.  I will check tomorrow.. 

 

Rob

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On 30/06/2020 at 21:46, scratcher said:

Sorry not to be clear Rob. It bonds all kinds of metal and plastic. I called out plastic as that’s where many superglued fall short.

It's true superglue can have it's shortcomings,  but I have managed to stick metal to plastic with it successfully. 

There is one called Roket Hot, it is very low viscosity, and it's lethal stuff.  If you ever try it beware. it will run into a joint and through, possibly damaging anything on the other side.  It sets off really quickly and can stick your fingers together in almost an instant.    Super care should be observed when using it..

Rob

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