Lowering Metcalfe three storey buildings

[SteveyDee68]

Hi

 

A search of the forum hasn't answered this particular question...

 

Has anybody attempted to turn the Metcalfe three storey low relief shop buildings (commonly seen in a bank, shop and pub format) into two storey buildings?  If so, any tips?

 

The overall style of the buildings in this kit fits with the look I am after, but they are just too tall! The Metcalfe terraced shops are too much alike to work in the setting I envisage.

 

Any other suggestions welcome!

 

Steve S

 

STAY HOME - STAY SAFE - KEEP MODELLING

[Cornholio]

Hi Steve,

 

I've sent you a Private Message.

 

Regards

 

Andrew

[SteveyDee68]

Thanks to Cornholio's advice, I have been brave enough to have a go!

 

First I removed the ends from Building B (the shop), to make cutting easier.  I then counted brick courses above the top row of windows on the front fascia of the building, then did the same above middle row before cutting off the second floor with a new blade.  I then lined up the two end walls with the new top edge, ensuring that brick courses lines up, and then cut off the bottom of the wall.  Hopefully the photo shows that.  It may be a simple task for others, but I was definitely measuring six times and cutting once!

 

I used sanding sticks to make 45 degree mitred corners at the front, which meant removing half a millimetre from each side of the base, and trimming the interior strengthers down by a millimetre each (no need to worry about centring those, unlike the doorway in the base).  Finally, I trimmed the rear wall down and also reduced its width by 1mm.

 

At this point back to the Metcalfe instructions!  I investigated a range of colours to try to hide the edges of the card of the wooden window surrounds, gauging against the middle of the windows as pressed out (photo 2).  What nobody mentions about colouring these edges is that the printed surface of the model is on a white paper on the top surface of the card, so in window openings you have the colour printing itself (top surface), a thin white paper edge and then the card.  Colouring the exposed edge actually creates two colours no matter what medium is used, as the colour reacts differently on the paper as it does on the card!  I can now see the advantage of the Scalescenes method of wrapping paper into openings!  However, this is very much a learning exercise, so I shall do that - and learn to live with it!  Although I have purchased and downloaded a lot of Scalescenes models, I am going to model most of my layout using Metcalfe kits, so I can get used to working with card.

 

I used the same pens to colour the glazing as I did on the card.  Again, not perfect results but another learning curve.  For now, I have completed the front wall and glazing.  Curtains and a new shop sign and interior created on the computer are next tomorrow!

 

Days of fun!

 

STAY HOME - STAY SAFE - KEEP MODELLING

 

 

Edited April 28, 2020 by SteveyDee68
Spotted a typo or two!

[SteveyDee68]

No more work on this today, but fresh eyes has me noticing where my pen slipped whilst colouring the insides of window surrounds.  Slightly annoyed at myself, and now wondering about creating more relief for the window surrounds.  This would have been easier before gluing the glazing in place, but you live and learn! I also guess this might be easier to accomplish with plasticard strip; the jury remains out as to whether I want to leap into another modelling medium before I get a handle on a first!

 

STAY SAFE - STAY HOME - STAY SANE & MAKE MODELS

[BR60103]

When I touch up the windows, I try to do it from the inside of the building so that stray marks don't show.

Our art supply store has ranges of felt-tip paint pens and some of them are near brick colours.

 

How do you sand the 45 degree corners?

 

[idd15]

I have never had much luck using paint or felt tips for covering exposed card edges on Metcalfe buildings. I now use artists chalks ( NOT oil based) rubbed along the exposed card edge and then finish off using a finger tip. Job done in seconds with no risk to the printed face.

 

HTH

idd

[SteveyDee68]

21 hours ago, BR60103 said:

When I touch up the windows, I try to do it from the inside of the building so that stray marks don't show.

Our art supply store has ranges of felt-tip paint pens and some of them are near brick colours.

 

How do you sand the 45 degree corners?

 

 

As I am learning as I go, I used a sanding stick at 45 degrees over the edge of the wall from the back, with the wall edge lined up with the edge of my cutting mat.  Another mat is underneath so I can run the stick back and forth in a parallel motion, so to speak, using the lower mat as a guide.  Definitely a bit of bodgery, but it sort of works.  

 

Having said that, the next  building I do I am going to try the "remove a sliver of backing card the depth of the card to leave the printed surface to cover the end of the abutting wall" method.  (Surely it has a name?!)

 

I am trying different techniques to see which I least muck up what suits me best!

 

Hours of fun!

[SteveyDee68]

14 hours ago, idd15 said:

I have never had much luck using paint or felt tips for covering exposed card edges on Metcalfe buildings. I now use artists chalks ( NOT oil based) rubbed along the exposed card edge and then finish off using a finger tip. Job done in seconds with no risk to the printed face.

 

HTH

idd

 

Thanks for the tip. I shall definitely search out chalks once able to get out and about for more than just the necessities!

 

MEANWHILE....

 

Having botched up the front whilst colouring in the window openings with felt pen, I decided to cover up the mistakes by printing a cover on my computer. Several hours of measuring, drawing shapes on the computer, adjusting, colouring, layering etc all in WORD (what was I thinking?) then ensued, with a printout that after cutting out simply didn't fit!  Aargh! Despite measuring half millimetres, I could not get WORD to be more accurate than a millimetre!

 

At least I was able to create a new business sign - I wanted to base it on the shop front of Cubits in Great Yarmouth (photo 1) but as it is not an exact copy I took the liberty of calling it North Gate Fish(mongers) (after a real Great Yarmouth business), run by Paul Williams (a genuine fishmonger!) 

 

To say it went together easily would be a complete fib!  I fabricated a doorknob for the door from a trackpin - then had to later remove it as the opening wasn't wide enough to keep it!  When gluing the completed front fascia to the base, I applied too much pressure and the facade folded/ripped at the top of the windows!  The whole process became bodge followed by botch followed by bodge... thankfully I had some balsa strip to assist with covering mistakes and strengthening dodgy joins, so basically kept going in the hopes of recovering!

 

I used the window sills and window arches from the discarded top floor to provide some relief around the windows, and attempted to create a box above the sign to hold the blind in (there's a representation of that too - although why I cut it short is a mystery!). Another botch up - I made a toilet paper blind for the door, stuck it on with tiny drops of glue... which have soaked through the tissue and show up!  Ah well, it's a learning curve for next time.

 

So here's the results, seen from head on (photo 2) and at an angle (photo 3) to try to show the added relief.  What am I pleased with?  Well, the shop sign itself, as the used an appropriate font and colours for the period!

 

I've spent the last hour searching for suitable photos to create stock to display in the windows - cod, herring, mackerel, kippers... sized to scale and test printed (although I've not seen it yet!  It might be a disaster!  Herrings scale out at approx 2mm!!).  I wonder about printing onto photo paper for a glossy finish... if I end up stumped, I will simply have to quote Douglas Adam's and say "So long, and thanks for all the fish!"

 

HOURS OF LOCKDOWN FUN!

 

 

 

NB The rear wall of the shop is not yet fastened to the actual rear of the building, so is at an angle.  The door on the rear wall is the original Metcalfe print - I think it needs darkening to avoid revealing the lack of depth in the shop!

 

JUST NOTICED - all that effort to get brick courses to line up, and just noticed the left hand corner is out of line!  AAAAAAAAARRRRGHH!!!!! 

Edited April 29, 2020 by SteveyDee68
Typos! Brickwork!!!

[sb67]

Just found your thread Steve. I like what you've done with that building, it looks fantastic. I like the Metcalfe kits but I like seeing people individualise and improving them. I like the extra relief you've got around the windows. I'll have to remember this for future inspiration 

[Nick Holliday]

1 hour ago, sb67 said:

Just found your thread Steve. I like what you've done with that building, it looks fantastic. I like the Metcalfe kits but I like seeing people individualise and improving them. I like the extra relief you've got around the windows. I'll have to remember this for future inspiration 

Although it is nice to get some relief on an otherwise flat elevation, it is probably best to confine it to the window sills. In general, a brick arch over a window or door will be flush with the rest of the brickwork, otherwise it will create a damp problem, as water will penetrate the joints, having collected on any horizontal surface. Raised treatment to the arch and sides is usually created in stone or stucco, and considerable care is taken to ensure that water is kept out, partly by careful shaping of the profiles used, and occasionally by having lead flashings tucked into the courses above. Expensive and rarely seen on domestic scale buildings. Projecting sills are, on the other hand, de rigeur, whether timber, stone or special bricks, to prevent water collecting on the flat surface of brickwork underneath.

[SteveyDee68]

5 hours ago, Nick Holliday said:

Although it is nice to get some relief on an otherwise flat elevation, it is probably best to confine it to the window sills. In general, a brick arch over a window or door will be flush with the rest of the brickwork, otherwise it will create a damp problem, as water will penetrate the joints, having collected on any horizontal surface. Raised treatment to the arch and sides is usually created in stone or stucco, and considerable care is taken to ensure that water is kept out, partly by careful shaping of the profiles used, and occasionally by having lead flashings tucked into the courses above. Expensive and rarely seen on domestic scale buildings. Projecting sills are, on the other hand, de rigeur, whether timber, stone or special bricks, to prevent water collecting on the flat surface of brickwork underneath.

 

Considering that once upon a time I wanted to be an architect (before the careers teacher told me - incorrectly so it happens - that I would need A level maths!), I didn't know that. Will bear in mind on future builds, thanks Nick!  

 

Thank you too, Steve (sb67) for your kind words - I am aware of many faults, not least using pens to colourise the window glazing (wonky hand), inaccurately cut card/balsa, glue marks, gloss ink marks etc etc etc, but words of encouragement spur me onwards!  Hoping a good blast of matt varnish at the end will tone everything down!

 

LOCKDOWN = WEEKS OF MODELLING OPPORTUNITIES

[SteveyDee68]

On 29/04/2020 at 08:30, Nick Holliday said:

Although it is nice to get some relief on an otherwise flat elevation, it is probably best to confine it to the window sills. In general, a brick arch over a window or door will be flush with the rest of the brickwork, otherwise it will create a damp problem, as water will penetrate the joints, having collected on any horizontal surface. Raised treatment to the arch and sides is usually created in stone or stucco, and considerable care is taken to ensure that water is kept out, partly by careful shaping of the profiles used, and occasionally by having lead flashings tucked into the courses above. Expensive and rarely seen on domestic scale buildings. Projecting sills are, on the other hand, de rigeur, whether timber, stone or special bricks, to prevent water collecting on the flat surface of brickwork underneath.

 

Nick - as I now have relief,  if I painted the arches over the windows in stone, would that be more acceptable or simply draw attention to my faux pas?

 

Thanks

 

Steve

 

PS

Hours spent printing/cutting out fish to detail the interior last night. Not brilliant, but as I am not planning to put interior lighting in the  shop I reckon I can get away with it! 

[Nick Holliday]

9 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

 

Nick - as I now have relief,  if I painted the arches over the windows in stone, would that be more acceptable or simply draw attention to my faux pas?

 

Thanks

Steve

It's a bit difficult to tell, and I don't want to take the blame if it all goes pear-shaped! Perhaps you could try a bit of digital manipulation first, using the colour you have used for the shop from panels, to see if it stands out too much. Otherwise I'd leave it as it is, as few people seem to be aware of this, as evinced by the number of magazine articles which advocate doing exactly what you have done, although you have executed it far better than some of the "experts"!