Guest WM183 Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Hi all. I am building a Comet models D1905 brake third, and the roof comes as an extruded aluminum - thing - that is quite rigid and looks ok, but the builder is left to install all vents, ducts, and ribbing. Unfortunately the kit comes with only vents, and the instructions dont help explain how the ribs and other details could or should be made. Has anyone built one of these, and if so, could you perhaps give me some pointers on this? I am quite lost here. Confused, Amanda Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
6959 Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Search on Comet web pages. Taken over by Wizard company or some name. I have the Comet pdf and will post it when use my pc. Soon. this Is from ipad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 It really does help to have drawings on hand I think. I have this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Historic-Carriage-Drawings-4mm-Scale/dp/0711000530 Later editions, separate the drawings into two volumes, one for LMS and the other for LNER. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5 C Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Scroll to the bottom of this page on the Comet Models website. They recommend the use of this very fine coach roof lining tape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted April 4, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 4, 2020 You could cut very thin strips of electrical insulation tape. I use the tape for boiler bands and works a treat. Might be a little thick for roof ribs though. Drawings or photos would help with positioning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I just decided to use some very thin styrene strips. It looks ok, though is probably oversize =( Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 I think I used thin strips of masking tape. Tamiya may do some already cut but making your own isn't hard. The paint ensures the tape stays stuck. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thanks folks! I found a very good photo in Jenkinson & Essery, which explained away much of my confusion, along with having placed an order for the coach diagram book. Another question however; I intend to run my Ivatt tank with a 3 coach set of BTK - CK - BTK, which I believe is pretty typical of secondary and branch services in early BR days? Would the brake thirds have been to the same diagram, or might a formation like 1905 - 1935 - 1730 have been in use? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5 C Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 The suggested method is to print out the instruction sheet PDF http://www.cometmodels.co.uk/data/Catalog/pdf/M43.pdf suitably scaled to the roof. Cut out the roof diagram and tape to the roof. You can then mark out the position of the vents and water fillers etc on the extrusion. Suitably formed brass wire for the tank filler pipe, grab handles etc. For a secondary or branch service in early BR days, it's likely you would see LMS period 2 and even period 1 stock still in use. Period 3 stock such as 1905 and 1935 would still be in use on primary and mainline services until gradually displaced with the introduction of BR mark 1 stock. It really depends on your definition of early. Photographs of workings in your era and area of interest are your friend here. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thank you Andy. I will help myself to some period II and I stock, and perhaps have my 1905 be an oddball. I am frankly unsure what area I wish to model; somewhere in Yorkshire I suppose, a secondary line perhaps, with a good deal of freight action. I plan to have the line limited to Class 4 locos, so no black 5s or 8Fs or the like; instead, lots of Jintys, Ivatts, and the odd old Midland 3F and 4F on freight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 The state of play, by the way! I have drilled the roof, and assembled the sides to the ends, and built the underframe. These are wonderfully designed kits! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 One issue I found when soldering up the underframe is it going banana shaped because of heat distortion. Yours looks flat but something to beware of. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 Hi John, Mine stayed nice and flat, I am unsure if I just got lucky or if I was quick enough to avoid this? The white metal bits are now on the underframe and I think that's enough for today! Woo! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 My error could have been that I made a complete solder joint along the solebars. I think I see tack joints on yours, this could be the key. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 A pair of water pipes run down the roof from the passenger end to a toilet filler tank (or are they handrails?) Anyway, should they lay on theribs of the roof, or be held up by some kind of stanchions? Thanks much! Amanda Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5 C Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 They are water filler pipes. They sit slightly raised from the surface of the roof, probably at the same height as the inlet for the tank filler. Overhead shots of coaches are understandably rare, but I have managed to find this one. It's most likely of a brake 1st as the pipes are filled from the guards end rather than passenger end on a brake 3rd. The pipes seem to be held in place by some form of C-shaped bracket with the pipe running through the back of the curve. Quite how you would reproduce in model form is difficult to say. Maybe a very small split pin? Incidentally, on Hornby's version of D1905, the pipes are held in place by a couple of pairs of very small handrail knobs. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 Hmm! Thanks much! I do have some very small handrail stanchions but they dont look quite right. Hmm.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 Make up six inverted-U "hoops" using 0,3 mm ø brass wire and then file (or razor saw) three notches in each of the two water delivery pipes. Solder the hoops into the notches from above so that the hoops are ⅓ to ½ proud of the pipes. At least a few of the hoops will need holes drilled in the aluminium roof to keep them in place, but I would be inclined to do the initial setting up using a small piece of MDF which can be easily and accurately drilled and won't be significantly affected by the soldering work. The bits of the hoops that you haven't drilled holes for in the aluminium roof can then be trimmed so that they just sit on the roof surface. I would probably make up a quick jig to help bend the hoops accurately as you need six of them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Iain.d Posted April 9, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) Hi, some D1905 coaches had water filler pipes coming from the brake end (eg M5684M) also. To attach my filler pipes I get a very thin piece of brass (Bill Bedford wagon brake safety loops), bend it into a ‘u’ shape, place the 'u' over the filler pipe and then squeeze it from below with a pair of pliers - a bit like a split pin. I drill all the required holes for the pipe attachments in the roof and fit the filler pipes, then I use a tiny bit of solder to secure the loop to the pipe. Once happy all the pipes are bent properly (or as best I can) I remove the filler pipes until after painting the coach, then refit them and hand paint them roof colour. The paint secures the pipes in place too. Hope that helps. Iain Edited April 9, 2020 by Iain.d To add photo 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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