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Sophia's WKR workshop


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Just thought I'd bring my bodging out of the pugbash thread and horrify a wider audience :D

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This first victim was just a little bit of fun involving a cut down J72 on a Hornby 0-4-0 chassis. Looking at it again I'm wondering if an SECR P class would be possible with another cut down body on a Terrier chassis. I know I could buy a P but that's no fun, right?

Anyway, I then got the idea for a light railway in the Weald of Kent and the WKR was born. I wanted a bigger tank engine, like an 0-4-4 for the "heavier" workings. Obvious choice would be the H class. But we don't wanna just buy one, we want to bodge, I mean build one. So step forward victims; a job lot of Hornby Dublo/Wrenn R1 bodies and an Airfix 14xx chassis!IMG20200226214042.jpg.5f1e532540ec0c9d3bb5480aab69b247.jpg

Some deep thought and slices with a razor saw got us to this point...

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And then some hacking of the Airfix chassis and a scratchbuilt bogie got us here...

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A bit of body filling and fettling of the bogie and a loco is sort of emerging, but what to do about the flared tanks, which the H class doesn't have?IMG20200322163024.jpg.d19955f194fcf476632203ada9338a45.jpg

Answer; some accidental research which shows that some of the SECR Q class 0-4-4s with flared tanks were rebuilt to Q1s ( no, not that Q1!) with Wainwright boilers. I'm going with my particular example being given a pagoda cab too and being sold to the WKR upon the class withdrawal in 1930.

The next logical step would be a coat of primer, but I want to remove the worn paint from the buffer beams. Of course, this isolation business has come about and I don't have anything to hand to remove it :unsure:

Any suggestions for alternative paint removal options would be gratefully received.

If you've got this far you probably deserve a medal! Stay tuned for the next instalment and stay safe!

Edited by Sophia NSE
Title changed to something more appropriate
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2 hours ago, Sophia NSE said:

The next logical step would be a coat of primer, but I want to remove the worn paint from the buffer beams. Of course, this isolation business has come about and I don't have anything to hand to remove it :unsure:

Any suggestions for alternative paint removal options would be gratefully received.

 

 

If you have any Dettol in stock, that's my usual paint stripper.  just leave it to soak overnight.

 

hope this helps

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3 hours ago, Moxy said:

 

If you have any Dettol in stock, that's my usual paint stripper.  just leave it to soak overnight.

 

hope this helps


If using Dettol

 

Don’t run it under water after taking it out of the Dettol! coat it in undiluted washing up liquid first before you wash it off in water, otherwise you end up with a sticky gooey mess

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On 04/04/2020 at 19:21, chuffinghell said:


If using Dettol

 

Don’t run it under water after taking it out of the Dettol! coat it in undiluted washing up liquid first before you wash it off in water, otherwise you end up with a sticky gooey mess

 

Now I learn the trick! Thanks for the tip, Chuffinghell!

 

I tried to strip a badly hand painted enamel BR green paint finish on a second hand Class 59 by soaking it overnight in Dettol. I rinsed it in water and it went sticky, so I soaked it again.  Rinsed it in water again, and I ended up binning it as the whole body starting melting into a sticky mess!  I ended up buying a another replacement body off eBay! Thank God it was a (relatively) cheap Lima loco in the first place, and I got the second body at a bargain price too!

 

At least next time I will be better informed how to go about paint stripping with Dettol.

 

Now, when was the last time I saw Dettol or any other surface cleaning agent on the shelves of my local supermarket?!

 

STAY HOME - STAY SAFE - KEEP MODELLING

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3 minutes ago, SteveyDee68 said:

 

Now I learn the trick! Thanks for the tip, Chuffinghell!

 

I tried to strip a badly hand painted enamel BR green paint finish on a second hand Class 59 by soaking it overnight in Dettol. I rinsed it in water and it went sticky, so I soaked it again.  Rinsed it in water again, and I ended up binning it as the whole body starting melting into a sticky mess!  I ended up buying a another replacement body off eBay! Thank God it was a (relatively) cheap Lima loco in the first place, and I got the second body at a bargain price too!

 

At least next time I will be better informed how to go about paint stripping with Dettol.

 

Now, when was the last time I saw Dettol or any other surface cleaning agent on the shelves of my local supermarket?!

 

STAY HOME - STAY SAFE - KEEP MODELLING


I learned the hard way too, although I now use something called biostrip 20

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The fancy fragranced disinfectant has pretty much worked and I'm now working on a pair of smaller nuts and bolts to fix the body to the chassis. The single large fixing was obscured by the bogie which meant I would have to remove it first if I wanted to get the body off.

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I do have an unmolested R1, seen here with the chimney cap and screw that arrived today. It does seem to have a pronounced upward lean to the running plate ahead of the smokebox though...

 

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The weather has been nice enough for a coat of primer!

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I missed the same patch on both sides but haven't done my usual and sprayed it on thick. I added cab doors from plasticard before spraying. I'm rather pleased with how things are going!

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Second coat of primer went on this afternoon.

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Spring buffers arrived today as well as probably enough coaches to keep the WKR running for a while.

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2 each of the brake and composite, which will be sprayed into something far less GWR. Any guesses at which manufacturer made them?

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Not bad, though the ones I bought a couple of years ago were just under £4 each including postage, so I doubt there's any need to pay silly money for them no matter how 'rare' they may be described! The exception is the Pullmans. The only ones of those that are cheap are the wibbly wobbly cellulose acetate bodied ones.

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