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Sophia's WKR workshop


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I'm just applauding you in the Ferrero-Roche advert style, it looks quite normal for a layout with just a few points :) I can't read the value of the capacitors so I can't estimate what the combined value is in microfarads, but as they aren't larger in diameter than a finger they're not going to be able to give the dangerous belt that my home-made remagnetiser does, but that's using a capacitor the same size as a can of beans.

Edited by AdamsRadial
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On 05/10/2020 at 23:02, AdamsRadial said:

I'm just applauding you in the Ferrero-Roche advert style, it looks quite normal for a layout with just a few points :) I can't read the value of the capacitors so I can't estimate what the combined value is in microfarads, but as they aren't larger in diameter than a finger they're not going to be able to give the dangerous belt that my home-made remagnetiser does, but that's using a capacitor the same size as a can of beans.

You had me worried for a while. I think my layout is likely to have only six points anyway

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Usually most CDUs work on quite few number of points provided you don't need to change too many too quickly, as the CDU needs a short time to recharge after bashing the point motor across. I am guessing the reasoning behind the use of several small capacitors in parallel is that they will recharge faster than a single large capacitor of the equivalent value, the charge curve is an inverse exponential, meaning that something like 60-75% of the charge gets in very quickly, but to finish off the remaining percentage can take almost as long again, However, the CDU's can typically kick a point motor at that 60-75% level, so the wait time is acceptable.

 

It looks to be a very good kit, I hope making it was an enjoyable experience. The soldering looks very neat and tidy.

Edited by AdamsRadial
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1 hour ago, AdamsRadial said:

Usually most CDUs work on quite few number of points provided you don't need to change too many too quickly, as the CDU needs a short time to recharge after bashing the point motor across. I am guessing the reasoning behind the use of several small capacitors in parallel is that they will recharge faster than a single large capacitor of the equivalent value, the charge curve is an inverse exponential, meaning that something like 60-75% of the charge gets in very quickly, but to finish off the remaining percentage can take almost as long again, However, the CDU's can typically kick a point motor at that 60-75% level, so the wait time is acceptable.

 

It looks to be a very good kit, I hope making it was an enjoyable experience. The soldering looks very neat and tidy.

It was quite enjoyable once I could see how it fitted together as there were no instructions!

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1 hour ago, Sophia NSE said:

It was quite enjoyable once I could see how it fitted together as there were no instructions!

I would suggest then you double-check the polarity of all the items (+ to + and - to -) paying particular attention to the diodes and capacitors before you supply power to it. Capacitors in particular can pop and spray oil if they are reverse-polarized. Diodes wi;; survive but becuase they are one-way devices wrong-wiring them will stop things working.

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I remember spending far too much time in A level physics destroying capacitors in class. Connecting up electrolytic the wrong way round and then ramping up the voltage till they let go. Modern ones don’t tend to have much oil in, they mainly expelled ‘fluff’ like a party-popper. 
I doubt that your caps in that cdu will do much if they are in the wrong way round (as long as they are rated above the voltage you apply to the board), but they may puff out their tops a bit (from flat to dome, but the cans are designed to do this). They will need replacing if they do so.

 

If you followed + to + on the board and cap you’ll be ok. 
 

Mind you l doubt you really need a cdu, unless you are trying to fire a number of points all at the same time.

 

Andy G

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A friend of mine at work must have noticed a video of mine from Facebook as I was asked if I did "model trains". Turns out she had found one of her dad's old locos and brought it in for me

IMG20201008143011.jpg.403c478041428224de772b15726669e7.jpg

It's a bit noisy but has a very good crawl and it absolutely dwarfs the Q1...

IMG20201008143028.jpg.805a6de9969f8d2d56ec4cf6ea889cbf.jpg

Speaking of which, it now sits on a kit built chassis of unknown heritage and is also a bit noisy. I had to stick a little extra weight in the body as it could pull the skin off a rice pudding, but now can pull and push it's intended rolling stock. The motor even has a flywheel on it!

IMG20201004210424.jpg.42f71dbc69d489075e6ce684bf278ae3.jpg

 

 

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On 08/10/2020 at 14:50, Sophia NSE said:

A friend of mine at work must have noticed a video of mine from Facebook as I was asked if I did "model trains". Turns out she had found one of her dad's old locos and brought it in for me

IMG20201008143011.jpg.403c478041428224de772b15726669e7.jpg

It's a bit noisy but has a very good crawl and it absolutely dwarfs the Q1...

IMG20201008143028.jpg.805a6de9969f8d2d56ec4cf6ea889cbf.jpg

Speaking of which, it now sits on a kit built chassis of unknown heritage and is also a bit noisy. I had to stick a little extra weight in the body as it could pull the skin off a rice pudding, but now can pull and push it's intended rolling stock. The motor even has a flywheel on it!

IMG20201004210424.jpg.42f71dbc69d489075e6ce684bf278ae3.jpg

 

 

Wrenn N2? Nice. 

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7 hours ago, Artless Bodger said:

That's looking very neat, wish I could paint lining that tidily. Assuming you are using a paint pen as before, is your base colour matt or gloss, and how does that affect the spread and density of the paint?

My base colour is an acrylic and this time I used the excellent Games Workshop paints and masking tape. A pot of the base colours is well worth the £2.75 I paid. I bought an off white for a thinner line of white around the tanks and bunker to break up the red

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the gloss spray hasn't ruined the paintwork!

 

IMG20201114151350.jpg.4072f240b7f5395da2e305ecfebd761b.jpg

IMG20201114151358.jpg.07e6854eed95f17d40a82f7fbdc7a83f.jpg

Next step is to order some transfers now I've been paid. I think white should stand out better on the black paint. I also need to put some pipework on the bufferbeams. Now, do I also go for cab handrails knowing that my drill work is decidedly shonky at best?

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Hi Sophia,

Might I suggest gold coloured transfers. The look really good and stand out well against black. like these. I think you have done a remarkable job with this engine. Are you going to put coupling hooks and vacuum pipes on the buffer beams?.

I also finally finally finished the X class by sorting out the front windows and making the the porthole type rather than the standard N2 ones.DSC_0992.JPG.b18a7eafe26d0f2d5793ed3aeb65784f.JPG

DSC_0980.JPG

DSC_0978.JPG

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45 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi Sophia,

Might I suggest gold coloured transfers. The look really good and stand out well against black. like these. I think you have done a remarkable job with this engine. Are you going to put coupling hooks and vacuum pipes on the buffer beams?.

I also finally finally finished the X class by sorting out the front windows and making the the porthole type rather than the standard N2 ones.DSC_0992.JPG.b18a7eafe26d0f2d5793ed3aeb65784f.JPG

DSC_0980.JPG

DSC_0978.JPG

Gold does look good, though I thought white would tie in better with the lining. I did just try to put in an order but the Fox website seems to believe that the expiry date on my card is invalid. I will be putting pipes and hooks on eventually

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