Bosaleck

[CDGfife]

Far side trap stock rail was then gauged off the Vee, closure rail and then, after the stock gauge point, following the template.

Then the point blade and siding stock rail was cut (over long) and the blade filed.  The rail was then sat in place so the knuckle position could be marked and then bent.  Couple of tweaks to the bend and the rail would sit in about the right place,  so then the far end of the rail could be marked and cut.  The rail was then tacked in place starting at the blade end, gauged off the two closure rails initially.

Then the remainder was gauged off the far left Vee and then the siding nearside rail.  This is an S curve as it initially follows the parallel path of the passenger line until it starts to curve away for the siding, so the triangle gauge pictured was correctly aligned for that bit of track but the orientation was reversed for the next bit to the left as the curve starts to move away from the camera.

It was then time for some more checking with the wagons and carriages I have ready and this highlighted some lumpy running through the slip.  careful watching of wheels indicated that occasion striking of the far side closure rails was occurring.  This made sense as the nearside check rail had been eyed in not gauged as I could not get a gauge on it due to all the other track around there.  I'd erred nm the side of check clearance and as a result was probably out of tolerance on check gauge.  It was easily adjusted with a touch of soldering iron on the timber and an ease of the rail/chair using ceramic tipped tweezers.

This made a load of difference and now everything is skipping happily through the formation in all directions.  So the final jobs (fabrication-wise) were to add the final check rails, fill in all the chair gaps with half-standard chairs and attach the trap point blade to it's "stretcher".  So here we are ready for a clean, prime and paint...

So there you have it - nothing particularly difficult in construction, just methodical working through the assemblies.  I love Templot dearly (and I for one am extremely appreciative of Martin W's efforts & generosity in that respect) and I've never subscribed to the "it's too difficult"/"the interface is wrong" view you sometimes read, but in my view the template creation is the most onerous bit of creating this type of bespoke pointwork.  It does however repay a bit of time and effort getting to grips with Templot (and the prototype) and I'm certainly not unhappy with how the finished result is looking!

 

Next up some paint.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Cheers

 

Chris

 

[richbrummitt]

I've recently downloaded Templot and wish I had done so sooner. It's a wonderful tool and the lack of some up to date documentation is made up for by proactive support from the generous author. For a real location the ability to insert period maps to scale as a background is invaluable. 

 

The idea of drilling the stock and switch rail is something I'd had myself and discarded for the reason Izzie pointed out to you but it appears you have made it work. I will be back to track making soon myself. How did you find the etched chairs in use? 

[Donw]

I think Templot is marvellous for the way you can create a prototypical turnout and bends it just as you want.  Where it is not as good is for layout planning when it does not feel intuitive. I find it easier to start with a sketch to approximate scale and use it a background to guide where you think the track should go templot will then flagup tight spots and undersized curves. You may have to reduce turnouts say dropping a C8 to a B7 but you know the end result will work. 

Of course if you are trying to squeeze too much in too little space you are going to have trouble whatever you use for planning.

 

Nice work on the slip.

 

Don

[CDGfife]

Richard,

Yes I find Templot is dangerously addictive, especially with the ease with which you can now load those old maps direct in and to scale.  My long term plan of Yeoford and Coleford Junction severely side-tracked me for a while!!

 

So far so good with the drilled rail, but the proof will be in the pudding!

 

I found the etched chairs really easy and satisfying to use.  Once I got a system together to bend them (small pointed scalpel, ceramic tweezers and a separate sharp scalpel for the etch cutting) my wastage rate was tiny and the few that were not recoverable when gone out of shape at least were able to provide a half chair for the cosmetic stuff around the crossings and blades.  Well impressed with the system and actually I've found this build no more difficult than the P4 track and for plain track with Easitrack it is much quicker.

 

I've been following the Ogbourne developments so will look forward to the track coming - really like those transparent fiddle yards!

 

Don,

 

Thanks for the comments.  I think Templot has got easier for track planning now there's a button for move and snap (or whatever it's called) so you can snap on the current template to any others and build up your plan, but actually I suspect there are lots of ways to skin the cat using it.  The key as you say is to avoid the temptation to try to shoehorn in too much.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[martin_wynne]

44 minutes ago, CDGfife said:

I think Templot has got easier for track planning now there's a button for move and snap (or whatever it's called) so you can snap on the current template to any others and build up your plan

 

Hi Chris,

 

That snapping function has always been available. For experienced users it is not much used, but beginners find it helpful.

 

The intended way of working is to extend templates, split them, and insert turnouts into them. That way you get curves flowing smoothly through pointwork, with no abrupt changes of radius. See this screen video (notice that nothing is ever snapped together):

 

 https://flashbackconnect.com/Movie.aspx?id=QBDJMDgdiC7PwRqLS2U3jg2

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[CDGfife]

Martin,

 

That video is a blast from the past and is one of that starter set I used when I first started getting into Templot and learning how to!  Great to see again.

 

I've actually used the extend and split method in the main as (like the video) I have generally been working from plans imported and as you say getting the curves right then adding and splitting things is then the easiest way to do it.  It's how the above plan was arrived at and Cadhay also has sweeping curved pointwork as a result of it.  That said I can also appreciate that some folks who come at it from something like AnyRail are more appreciative of the snap function (at least to begin with) and my comments were actually an appreciation that the button has now arrived to make it easier for those folks to do that if they wish.

 

Personally as I said above I think Templot really rewards those that make the effort to find a tutorial or video of how to do something and then spend a bit of time trying to do so.  Usually works for me!

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[richbrummitt]

The snake through peg is exactly the function I needed the other day but I had no idea what the search terms needed to be to find the answer I sought. I'd watched the video before too but a couple hours cramming in Templot tips and tutorials and I could not remember it all. I've still got some timber shoving to do in the crossings so it has not come too late. Thank you for posting the link.

[martin_wynne]

47 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

The snake through peg is exactly the function I needed the other day but I had no idea what the search terms needed to be to find the answer I sought.

 

Hi,

 

When in doubt, ask on the Templot Club forum. That's what it's there for.

 

http://85a.co.uk/forum/

 

There are 3 different functions which might be what you were looking for:

 

orbit (CTRL+F5 or just press 5)

snake through peg (CTRL+F6 or just press 6)

slide through peg (SHIFT+F9)

 

They vary according to where the peg is, and whether the template contains a transition curve.

 

See this 10-year-old topic:

 

 http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=871&forum_id=1

 

and this old video:

 

 https://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=0OCZEp3uX2ExB_E_tGlGKA2

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[richbrummitt]

1 hour ago, martin_wynne said:

 

Hi,

 

When in doubt, ask on the Templot Club forum. That's what it's there for.

 

http://85a.co.uk/forum/

 

There are 3 different functions which might be what you were looking for:

 

orbit (CTRL+F5 or just press 5)

snake through peg (CTRL+F6 or just press 6)

slide through peg (SHIFT+F9)

 

They vary according to where the peg is, and whether the template contains a transition curve.

 

See this 10-year-old topic:

 

 http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=871&forum_id=1

 

and this old video:

 

 https://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=0OCZEp3uX2ExB_E_tGlGKA2

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

Thanks Martin, 

 

I shall sign up (as promised previously). I've found most of my answers by searching there already but some have been elusive thus far. The current project I've pretty much got there by learning as I go/muddling through but for the next one there is a bit more to it so it should be worthwhile. 

 

 

[CDGfife]

Couple of final piccies of the complete but unpainted trackwork

 

The template was eased off the back using a wet sponge and then it was solder on the electrical feeds, mask them up, prime, clean railhead and blades, paint, clean rail head and blades:

And here is the finished article awaiting laying:

Posting might just slow down a bit now as we're more or less up to date with current, although I'm hopeful some track might actually get laid fairly soon!

 

Thanks for looking

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[Caley Jim]

Love the 'flow' through that formation, Chris, but then that's what you get with Templot!

 

Jim

[CDGfife]

Thanks Jim,

 

That flow is exactly what I was after and yes it was that kind of thing that lead me to put the time in to learn to use Templot.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[CDGfife]

Bit of break from the trackwork this week, but not been entirely idle on the 2mm front.  Thought I'd have a go at 2mm tree making.  On Cadhay I've used large Seafoam with additional bark paint etc to make trees I'm pretty happy with.  I will certainly do the same on Bosaleck but the trees you get from Seafoam alone are pretty similar in shape and form.  I thought I'd try a bit of wire armature forming to try and create specimen trees that are of a recognisable type and have had a go at a large 70' oak, a smaller 40' oak and a 100' poplar.  The foliage is a bit generic at present as my usual box of varied selection was not easily accessible and the poplar certainly needs to be lighter and slightly greyer in colour to my eye, but as a start I'm not unhappy - they can always go in amongst the woodland!

These will eventually be planted into bigger holes that loose a bit more of the trunk length:

Here's a couple of the armature made from some multi-strand copper speaker wire with Greenscenes Flexibark paint still to be added to the trunk.

After the flexibark was added it was then a grey prime and a first shot of olive brown - bit more green was added to the trunk after this photo

Once the right colour I added 6mm, 4mm then 2mm static grass followed by Noch Laub (leaves) and some Woodland scenic fine turf all held in place with hairspray.

 

Overall they've come out alright.  N gauge cattle van placed for scale!!

Thanks for looking

 

Cheers

 

Chris

 

[CDGfife]

Got a bit more done over the last three evenings on various Bosaleck things.

 

Firstly the Templot plot and most of the Cad drawing were printed out 1:1.  The templot plot was stuck to the cork track bed (Screwfix grab adhesive - no cockling!!) and the whole mocked up to check all ok and to mark out the 9mm ply I will use for track base.  Sorry the pics aren't great - couldn't get away from that beautiful Fife sunshine!

Also the 4mm ply for the baseboard has gone to my friendly (baseboard sized) laser cutter supplier.  (no pictures of plywood sheets though!)

 

I've also made a start on the station buildings.  Here's where I'm at right now, still with tiles, bargeboards, sills and guttering/downpipes to sort.

I've taken snaps during the build so a similar run through to what I did with the slip will follow over the next few days for the single story building (unless I hear loads of cries of "please No"!).  I know the SR & BR paint specs both show all green doors but the building is based on Bridestowe and the 50's photos clearly show lighter recessed panels which I've assumed are cream, plus I think they look ok like that!

 

Thanks for looking

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[bécasse]

42 minutes ago, CDGfife said:

 

I know the SR & BR paint specs both show all green doors but the building is based on Bridestowe and the 50's photos clearly show lighter recessed panels which I've assumed are cream, plus I think they look ok like that!

 

I did warn you! Those 1950s photos of Bridestowe show the station painted in chocolate and cream because at the time it fell within the commercial remit of the Western Region. Signs would have been chocolate and cream too. As you are aware, if it had been in Southern Railway or Southern Region colours the doors would have been all-green just as the paint specs show.

[CDGfife]

1 hour ago, bécasse said:

 

I did warn you! Those 1950s photos of Bridestowe show the station painted in chocolate and cream because at the time it fell within the commercial remit of the Western Region. Signs would have been chocolate and cream too. As you are aware, if it had been in Southern Railway or Southern Region colours the doors would have been all-green just as the paint specs show.

Of course!!!  Completely obvious when you think about it!  Thanks David.

 

Still green and cream at Bosaleck I think they will stay ('coz I like them!).  Also the lazy station team at Bosaleck have not replaced the Southern Railway signage with BR (in chocolate) just yet either - perhaps they are hankering after the good old days! In the end that came down to the aesthetics of things (Rule 1 and all that), it's a shame the SR door spec was all green - to me the green and cream doors look very good!  There's also a white door frame that has crept in (ok I only noticed it when I took the snaps!).  My argument is that the door in question is the entry to the private quarters and the Station Master has taken the law into his own hands!  Integrity out of the window at the first hurdle I hear you cry!! Still not having and Chocolate and Cream on it!!! (Sorry Western fans)

 

Cheers

 

CDG

[richbrummitt]

17 minutes ago, CDGfife said:

 (Sorry Western fans)

 

Honestly; you're not though. Are you?

[CDGfife]

If you've ever seen the Cadhay thread on the S4 forum you'd know the answer to that (although I would add I wasn't the one that suggested the copper dome pannier should live in the pigsty)!!

 

I'm not going to comment here on it (but I am nodding).   Need to be nice to everyone - we're a broad modelling church!

 

CDG

[CDGfife]

Here's a quick question:

 

Those two little bridges on the plan - would they have been baulk timbered in 1954?

 

Cheers

 

CDG

[martin_wynne]

19 minutes ago, CDGfife said:

Those two little bridges on the plan - would they have been baulk timbered in 1954?

 

 

It depends on the design of the bridge, not the date. Lichfield 1990:

 

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[Nigelcliffe]

16 hours ago, CDGfife said:

 

 

……...  The templot plot was stuck to the cork track bed (Screwfix grab adhesive - no cockling!!) and ……………...

 

 

 

There are quite a few people who have built 2mm layouts who will say "cork track bed is a bad idea".  

 

- Nigel

 

 

[CDGfife]

40 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

There are quite a few people who have built 2mm layouts who will say "cork track bed is a bad idea".  

 

- Nigel

 

 

Thanks Nigel, so what is the concern with Cork track bed?

 

Have to say every layout I've built with the exception of Cadhay has used the 1.5mm stuff and provided it's stuck down properly (& flat) and stuff is stuck to it properly it seems to be pretty durable.  Cadhay used the closed cell foam and has been a disaster in that when the rails have expanded and contracted the foam has moved, sheared and stretched at the board edges and never gone back to it's original shape, hence a lot of it has been replaced at the board edges with ply just to keep the rails level!!  Personally I would never use it again, although I do know folks that say it's been great!

 

CDG

 

[CDGfife]

Martin,

 

Thanks for the pic and info.  Lichfield is not that far from my home town.

 

My plan was a simple girder span with centre pier, similar to that you have pictured, so would that automatically mean baulk timbers?  I'm quite happy to do that by the way, just interested in where it would and would not have been used.  What type of bridge structure would not require it or would require standard sleepering?

 

Cheers

 

CDG

[Nigelcliffe]

53 minutes ago, CDGfife said:

Thanks Nigel, so what is the concern with Cork track bed?

 

Have to say every layout I've built with the exception of Cadhay has used the 1.5mm stuff and provided it's stuck down properly (& flat) and stuff is stuck to it properly it seems to be pretty durable.  Cadhay used the closed cell foam and has been a disaster in that when the rails have expanded and contracted the foam has moved, ……….

 

 

Same issue as with foam, but not large in movement.   2mm rails seem fairly prone to bending vertically, cork gives a surface where that bend can happen.    A number of people have said just go for a rigid surface.  If concerned about noise, solve that below the baseboard in how it is constructed.  

 

 

Nigel

 

 

[2mm Andy]

46 minutes ago, CDGfife said:

Martin,

 

Thanks for the pic and info.  Lichfield is not that far from my home town.

 

My plan was a simple girder span with centre pier, similar to that you have pictured, so would that automatically mean baulk timbers?  I'm quite happy to do that by the way, just interested in where it would and would not have been used.  What type of bridge structure would not require it or would require standard sleepering?

 

Cheers

 

CDG

 

Longitudinal timbers were often used where there was a need to keep the bridge deck as 'thin' as possible, or to keep the weight of the bridge down due to poor ground conditions underneath (they are usually lighter than if ballasted track was used). How long is the bridge (in scale feet), and is the watercourse under the bridge navigable?  One other thing to note - longitudinal timbers on bridges are not popular on curved track as the transition from longitudinal timbers to ballasted track is difficult to maintain.

 

Andy

(day job = railway bridge engineer)