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I'm finally committing to a long-standing concept I've had.   Martinson & Co will be a micro-layout with a gauge of 9mm.    I plan to represent a small yard with two spurs.   The whole of the operation will sit inside a shoebox of about 15x14".   For a little added convenience, I will have a fiddle 'stick' out the side of the box, just to allow off-scene management by the 'Hand of God.'   I will plant a couple of uncoupling magnets to allow for hands-free operation on scene.

 

This is about the arrangement I've seen will fit so far;

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And I've posed it here with the only bit of railway scenery I have built.    The goods shed is a Peco item, if I remember correctly.

 

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Like I've said above, I plan to show this yard as packed ashes or similar.   Part of that plan is burying the track almost up to the railhead.    I've seen a handful of recent articles in Model Rail about the subject, but I don't recall solutions for the points.   Does anyone have any tips?

 

What would I need to do to assure reliable operation?   As I plan to bury the track, I don't fancy digging up the cover to solve faults.   The point is a Peco Streamline item, with a wire connecting the two lines.

 

Some of you may have noticed I only referenced the gauge, not the scale.   I've also mentioned I wish to represent something like packed ashes.    That's my trick.   I want to peg or magnetize any buildings & scenery.   Doing so, I wish to make such things modular.   I'll be able to switch scales in a heartbeat.   Go from OO9 to HOe/HO 2 1/2 to UK N to Japanese N to N, just by running a different train and buildings!  I went with the name of Martinson & Co for two reasons.   My name happens to be Martin, for one.    My other reasoning is Martin seems to be a reasonably consistent name amongst European languages, as does the suffix -son.   One name plaque covers most prototypes.

 

What does anyone think?

Edited by AlfaZagato
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  • 2 months later...

I still haven't gotten that far yet, though I picked up what was a mildly difficult item to scrounge here stateside;

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Shutdown is partially lifting here, but the shop I'd have liked to pick these up from hasn't reopened yet.   I have concerns they did not survive the shutdown. 

 

20200618_210349.jpg

Edited by AlfaZagato
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  • 3 weeks later...

I added feed drops.

 

I have a drop off of the entrance curve, and then a drop between each piece of track on each spur.   I soldered the drops across the joint, above the fishplates.    I've also fitted insulated joiners between each spur and the switch, and cut the circuit across the frogs.   I don't plan on fitting such a small layout with DCC.

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I'm not entirely ashamed of the soldering, either.   I need to do more.

 

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Next, I need to drill holes for the feeds, along with rout channels underneath the baseboard to accommodate the feeds.    I should probably also figure out how I'm actually wiring this.   That might be important.

Edited by AlfaZagato
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  • 2 months later...

I redid the feeds.   Friend in a local club drew me a superior wiring diagram to my 'drops everywhere.' 

 

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I picked up some Kato Unitrak-to-snaptrack connectors, too.    I may need to shorten one for the space.    I plan to use Unitrak and the associated connector as a quick-attach fiddle-stick.   Seems better than contriving some alignment system made from angle.

Edited by AlfaZagato
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  • 4 months later...

I think I finalized my trackplan.

 

 

I'm not so concerned about entering the layout obliquely.   As I've mentioned before, I'm using the Unitrak due to the quality of the connection.   There's a reason T-Trak is a thing.   I think I will need to pack in under the entrance to the point.   Not good to have it floating.

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Should I just cork the rest of the track?   I wasn't going to originally.   Figured it would be more needless depth to a compact layout.   Could I just mount the Dapol decoupling magnets in a layer of cork, though?

Edited by AlfaZagato
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  • 3 weeks later...

Very early testing.  I haven't finished the wiring yet.

 

Short test video.

 

I mean, that works.   I need a switch to connect the spurs.   I have a half-dozen old SPST switches.   On/Off, no center.   According to my friend's notes, I need...not that.   I don't have the notes to hand.   I should write that down...

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  • 1 year later...

Small work on the layout tonight.   I cut the exit for the fiddle stick.  Used Yew as a guide, as she'll be my largest loco I expect to use.

 

 

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Not the prettiest cut, but the only thing to hand was a box knife.  I also have the recommended switches available - Single pole, double throw.  Once I figure out where I want the wires, I can hook that up and go.

Edited by AlfaZagato
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  • 5 months later...

Getting ahead of myself on this idea.

 

I may develop the idea of 'Martinson & Co' beyond just this small shoebox layout.    I've been having ideas on livery for PO wagons and/or locos.    

 

My question is, would Zinc Chromate ever be used on wood bodies?   My thought was a small industry, should it have 'own' stock, might use just a primer coat?

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