Burchill Edge Sidings - BR Blue Carriage/NPCCS Sidings, with a nod to Manchester Red Bank & Bristol Malago Vale

[Enterprisingwestern]

1 hour ago, 9C85 said:

 

I think I am going to model the bridges as former railway bridges with just a deck and no track.

 

How are you going to have a bus on a bridge then?

You've just broken rule 2!

 

Mike.

[9C85]

22 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

How are you going to have a bus on a bridge then?

You've just broken rule 2!

 

Mike.

Is there a definitive list of 'the rules' somewhere on this forum?

[9C85]

 

This is the sight that greeted me when I went into the garage this evening. It just happened to be how I'd left things after filming the bit of video last night. 

I thought it made a nice composition. 

[Enterprisingwestern]

40 minutes ago, 9C85 said:

Is there a definitive list of 'the rules' somewhere on this forum?

 

Somewhere there must be, everything else is covered.

 

Mike.

[9C85]

A rare glimpse inside the storage yard...

 

A view with the Mill structure removed.  This is ALL my stock at present  

 

[9C85]

No-one likes an empty yard... 

[5BarVT]

38 minutes ago, 9C85 said:

No-one likes an empty yard... 

Accountants do - it means all the stock is out earning income!

Paul.

[9C85]

 

 

 

[9C85]

I have now got so 'into it' that if I have an item of stock requiring attention, then I park it up at the far end of the headshunt for the fuelling point - I don't think it's allowed to be called a "cripple siding" these days. This track can also be used as a layover siding for locos not requiring fuel - I picture it with two or three Class 31s in it, chuntering away between jobs.  This is the bit of track nearest the garage door, so when I return to the layout it acts as a reminder that something needs fixing. 

 

This is one of the Hornby Mk1s I got as an early Fathers day present.  It's had the bogies swapped on it and the NEM pockets are slightly too low for the Kadee couplings.  I need to get some replacement bogies for it, with correct height NEM pockets - the ones on my Hornby BGs (in fact all my Hornby stock) are spot on. I have tried Peters Spares, but they always seem to be out of stock. 

Actually, this coach isn't such an issue as I will probably end up sticking it inside a fixed rake. 

I have revisited my 'three trains' strategy and now I have one fixed rake 5-coach passenger train  (all Bachmann with pipe connectors), and anything that can be considered mail or parcels  (including my blue/grey BGs) is now loose-coupled and fitted with Kadees.  This gives me more scope for shunting fun with the 08, while the 47 and 25 argue the toss over the passenger working. 

So now have two 'spare' passenger coaches, a TSO and the only pictured above.  I might tag the TSO  (whose Kadees work fine) onto a parcels working as a coach going back into/out of service*. 

*Rule 1 applies 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2020 by 9C85

[9C85]

8 hours ago, 9C85 said:

 

I have revisited my 'three trains' strategy and now I have one fixed rake 5-coach passenger train  (all Bachmann with pipe connectors), and anything that can be considered mail or parcels  (including my blue/grey BGs) is now loose-coupled and fitted with Kadees.  This gives me more scope for shunting fun with the 08, while the 47 and 25 argue the toss over the passenger working.  

 

So this is all my current NPCCS combined into one train. The layout is designed to fit a loco plus five coaches, but thanks to the 4 wheeled CCTs and the fact that BGs are 57ft, this 7 coach train fits comfortably in most of the sidings on the layout, including the longest hidden siding. I could even put the 47 on it and it wouldn't look out of place, thanks to the girder bridges at each end of the layout  giving the impression of longer sidings. 

[9C85]

New double track bridge added today 

[9C85]

On 25/04/2020 at 12:06, Baby Deltic said:

 

 

https://www.petersspares.com/Bachmann-36-005a-mk1-bogies-pk2-oo-gauge.ir

 

I drill out the old pivot hole on the Lima GUV with a 4.2mm drill and tap it M5 then use an M5 screw to attach the Bachmann bogie. 5 minute job.

I got a tap and die set from Screwfix today, along with some nuts, bolts and washers, and the M5 tap worked a treat straight into the pivot hole on my GUV.  I have some Bachmann bogies on order and a maroon Lima GUV on its way, plus I have some Railtec 'Newspapers ' transfers. I just need to buy an airbrush and my first repainting project can start

Edited June 23, 2020 by 9C85

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

It's nice to see someone going for it instead of whinging and moaning that the number they want in the livery they need isn't made by a manufacturer.

More power to your elbow, evidently some Yorkshire grit has rubbed of on you!

 

Mike.

[9C85]

 

Nice surprises in the post today 

 

[9C85]

Stage 1 completed. Bogies on with couplings removed. I had to hack away at the inner floor of the bodyshell to make enough clearance for the bolts and washers. 

[9C85]

Stage 2 completed.  I was on a roll tonight and everything has gone well so didn't want to stop.

Kadees fitted to the GUV...

 

Considering both these coaches have Kadees fitted by 'kit bashing ', I couldn't be happier with their operation.  The new GUV worked first time on the delayed action magnet. 

 

 

So it's painting, numbering ando weathering next. I have got my eyes on a timbertech airbrush and compressor set on amazon for around  £90 including delivery.  If anyone has anything good or bad to say about it, I would appreciate it.  Cheers 

[9C85]

New toy arrived today...

[9C85]

2 hours ago, 9C85 said:

New toy arrived today...

 

First impressions are that this is a nice bit of kit. 

I have tried it out by spraying a capful of water into the sink. I have never used an airbrush before but it felt comfortable and easy to control.  The only thing that I am not sure about is the pressure control valve on the compressor (with the red ring in the photo). I feel like I should be able to adjust it by hand but I had to use a wrench to get it to budge.  I have emailed the supplier to get some guidance.  Also, the instructions are pretty good with exploded diagrams etc, but there is nothing to actually tell you how to change a needle.  I think I have worked it out, but again, I have  emailed the supplier. 

I think I will start using it to weather my track and get used to how it works, then progress to painting and weathering my stock. Any guidance on thinning ratio for Railmatch paint would be appreciated.  I have both Humbrol and railmatch thinners to chose from so, again, advice appreciated. Cleaning tips would be welcomed too - I have just received some tamiya airbrush cleaning liquid, so I am ready to go and looking forward to getting things grimy 

[ColinK]

I had one of those kits, got me started nicely on airbrushing.  In time you might want to move onto a higher spec model.

 

If I remember correctly, you pull up the black round thing above the red ring to adjust the pressure.

 

You shouldn’t need to change/replace the needle unless you bend it.

 

Keeping the airbrush clean inside is critical.  There are plenty of videos on how to do this. I suggest you look at those on airbrushes.com.  When you get it gummed up, a can of ‘liquid reamer’ is useful.  I suggest getting a cleaning kit too.

 

Spraying, especially enamels and cleaner, isn’t good for your health, so you need to take appropriate measures to look after your health.

 

Have fun - you’ll probably have a few problems initially, but when you’ve mastered it you’ll achieve great results.
 

[rob D2]

There’s loads on here about thinning a various paints and cleaning airbrushes - do a google search and add RMweb at the end 

[Jaggzuk]

Regarding compressor, check this post & thread out for details  https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107480-so-i-bought-a-cheap-airbrush-kit/&do=findComment&comment=2179731

Edited June 27, 2020 by Jaggzuk
Spelling

[9C85]

On 02/06/2020 at 16:13, Steven B said:

Classes 31 & 40 next?

I have seen a BR Blue Hornby Class 40 (R3392TTS) on eBay.  I know it is a Railroad version but I have seen a couple of videos on YouTube and it looks OK to me. My very first loco for this layout was a TTS fitted Class 31 and I was happy with the sound on that. It's only going to be whistling away most of the time with the occasional blast on and off the layout . Anyone else got this loco and care to share and opinion? It would look bang on for the newspaper train I am slowly putting together. 

Edited June 29, 2020 by 9C85
Added 'Class 40'

[9C85]

On 27/06/2020 at 19:22, ColinK said:

Have fun - you’ll probably have a few problems initially, but when you’ve mastered it you’ll achieve great results.
 

 

Thanks. I have just had my first go with the airbrush and my first feelings were that I am out of my depth, going to make a mess and wasted a load of cash.

My first problem was not being able to get the right mix of paint to thinners, and then not getting an even consistency.  I was trying to put down some Railmatch Sleeper Grime mixed with Railmatch thinners. First of all I tried mixing in a plastic pot and decanting to the brush filler cup, but most of the mix stuck to the side of the pot. Then I tried mixing in the filler cup with a stick and also the 'blowback ' method with my finger over the nozzle. I eventually got something that looked like it would work. 

When I sprayed the mixture, I got very little coverage even with the paint valve wide open. I was using the factory fitted 0.3mm needle and nozzle. 

Painting on a piece of card revealed not a very consistent spray pattern but as I was doing ballast in the area of the fuel point, I kept going until things looked at least like they had been painted. 

I gave up after covering the tracks up to the turnout feeding the fuel point.  Then came the fun and games of cleaning the brush.

I have vallejo airbrush cleaner and followed the instructions in the airbrush guide and on the cleaner bottle. The low point came when the trigger fell out of the brush and nearly went down the kitchen sink. It took me about an hour to get the brush back together and working properly.  At least I now have a better idea of what all the adjustment screws are for on the airbrush 

When it was back together, I ran some more cleaner through it. The spray pattern looked a lot better so I am pretty sure my paint was too thick. 

Next time, I might try a bigger needle  (0.5mm) as it's a big area I am covering.  I am way off feeling confident enough to have a go at painting/weathering any stock.

[Jaggzuk]

Have patience!!  Take time and “playing around with the settings” will improve your skill.  I must have spent an age on Youtube watching various “how tos”.  My first efforts were weathering buildings and track, then a few Airfix kits with my eldest.  Not yet picked up the courage to tackle any rolling stock!

 

The key tip I picked up on the web was first the mix has to be right and second to take time with the coverage as it will take a good while because the airbrush mix is very thin, so many passes are required.  This is where patience kicks in, as you may need several sessions to get good coverage and colour depth.  Forget how you would paint with a paintbrush and how thick one coat would be.  Airbrushing  is a whole different approach and mind set.

 

Another tip is to keep the nib free from dried paint during painting sessions.  Check out “Removing Tip Dry” section http://www.airbrushguru.com/cleaning-your-airbrush.html

 

On the cleaning front have you got an Airbrush Cleaning Pot?  If not I recommend getting one, will make life much better and less messy.  Also, invest in some cleaning fluid in a spray can (e.g. Spraycraft  Airbrush Cleaner), this helps to blast out paint residue in the airbrush.  Use this with the Cleaning Pot. Gettign the airbrush totaly clean will ensure the next session is pain free.

 

 

Edited June 30, 2020 by Jaggzuk

[Barclay]

10 hours ago, 9C85 said:

 

Thanks. I have just had my first go with the airbrush and my first feelings were that I am out of my depth, going to make a mess and wasted a load of cash.

My first problem was not being able to get the right mix of paint to thinners, and then not getting an even consistency.  I was trying to put down some Railmatch Sleeper Grime mixed with Railmatch thinners. First of all I tried mixing in a plastic pot and decanting to the brush filler cup, but most of the mix stuck to the side of the pot. Then I tried mixing in the filler cup with a stick and also the 'blowback ' method with my finger over the nozzle. I eventually got something that looked like it would work. 

When I sprayed the mixture, I got very little coverage even with the paint valve wide open. I was using the factory fitted 0.3mm needle and nozzle. 

Painting on a piece of card revealed not a very consistent spray pattern but as I was doing ballast in the area of the fuel point, I kept going until things looked at least like they had been painted. 

I gave up after covering the tracks up to the turnout feeding the fuel point.  Then came the fun and games of cleaning the brush.

I have vallejo airbrush cleaner and followed the instructions in the airbrush guide and on the cleaner bottle. The low point came when the trigger fell out of the brush and nearly went down the kitchen sink. It took me about an hour to get the brush back together and working properly.  At least I now have a better idea of what all the adjustment screws are for on the airbrush 

When it was back together, I ran some more cleaner through it. The spray pattern looked a lot better so I am pretty sure my paint was too thick. 

Next time, I might try a bigger needle  (0.5mm) as it's a big area I am covering.  I am way off feeling confident enough to have a go at painting/weathering any stock.

Your post made me laugh because that's exactly what happened to me when messing about with the Expo tools airbrush, which looks very like yours. Trigger fell out, couldn't get the mix right, it's either so thin I can't get a decent coat of paint down or it seems if it's any thicker nothing happens! And I have modelled and painted for decades, none of this trouble with my old Humbrol spraygun type airbrush. 

There has to be a knack to this, it's just going to take practice, perhaps lots.

I have been using cellulose thinners (from Halfords) for that final blast through after cleaning with white spirit and this seems to do a good job, for what it's worth.