Jump to content

A Bit Of fun with 'Kits'


Recommended Posts

I have just been tidying up & found 2x Street level models 1935 tube card tube 'kit'.

Question to myself : Can I make this work as a unit to sit next to efe & Radley stuff ?

 

Hell, with the lockdown, the worst thing that can happen is that I glue myself to workbench!

 

Here is my check list;

 

window and door acetates

Seat windshields in acetate (cheating to work as a bulkhead) with hand rails

seats with printed moquette.

Driver bulkhead including seat and all control cabinets etc.

Black Wrap tape (to stop light leakage) stuck to inside of carriage

overlay for interior printed on laser printer (including line diagram etc)

 

The major things are chassis and bogies....

 

Chassis... Metal, (got some brass also steel & aluminium sheet), or maybe, mdf ? (got that too)

 

Here I need some ideas. In my bits box, I have 6x ancient HO Jouef bogies that could be adapted...

 

Home brew coach lighting..................

 

Come on, let's do crazy things in crazy times!

 

 

Oh forgot to mention, I have the wheels. 

 

Feel free to add to the list.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This will be interesting. I'm a friend of the proprietor of Street Level so think the inverted commas around the word kit are a tad unfair. Admittedly the '35 stock is a tricky one, with that roof, but far from impossible (many, many, years ago my Dad and I made a reasonable attempt at the '38 stock kit. This was back when the LT Museum stocked kits). As for proof that the kits can be used to build passable models -

19707295-1.1024.jpg

A Metropolitan EMU built by the proprietor. It runs alright, though currently awaits a new motor bogie. It also has internal lighting.

 

If you like I'll send the thread to Charlie, the proprietor - He goes by the username of L49 on here and could probably offer some advice.

Edited by sem34090
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Not meant to be unfair.  Hoping it will relieve the boredom. I'm going to 'cheat' with the roof front by moulding it in either liquid plastic or using milliput.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The 35 stock isnt too tricky, especially when you compare it to the 67/72. The roof end might be a challenge, but the milliput idea would work ok  just be careful if you are sanding it down to protect the printed sides.

 

On the surface stock, I always used the printed roof details as a guide to add rain strips and ventilators before painting the whole roof either dark brown or grey depending which stock I was working on. Tube stock is a bit trickier, as it has very prominent rivets and overlapping sheets. I would consider using ordinary printer paper to represent the overlapping sheets, and maybe prick the rivets out from behind using a pin or compass point.

 

Ideally, I used to use a light box do I could do this from the back, but if you don't happen to have one in the front room... as not many of us do, me included... then maybe tape the sheet to the window and use the big celestial light box that none of us are allowed to enjoy right now.

 

Bogie wise, go to www.metromodels, erm, its .com or .net. John sells injection moulded bogies as replacements for EFE stock, and they run beautifully. 

 

I think I have a built up '35 stock car downstairs somewhere. I'll post some pics in a bit if it helps.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 306 emu from this source. My intention is to scan it into the PC (already done) then print it onto A4 size white labels which will then be stuck to plasticard sheet. I can then cut out the plasticard and stick the bits together to make the body. Any relief, such as the inset doors, can be done from another print. I already do this with Scalescenes downloads for buildings (instead of cardboard). At the moment it is in the Roundtuit pile, but have already got the OK from Street Level to do this. Once assembled, it can then be painted and detailed as it is effectively a plastic model.

 

Stewart

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

This I'd my one which I built to take round the shows. This is just the basic kit with the windows cut out, mounted on acetate. The floor is plasticard and the bogies are Metromodels.

 

20200423_120553.jpg.97f5adee47f984edcb484c9cdfb3e624.jpg

 

The card roof doesnt look too bad, but cruel close up doesnt help...

 

20200423_120602.jpg.e0c4648c3ed95a5cf2fd0f0c7c00d442.jpg

 

This is a detail of the card frames mounted on the metromodels bogie, the plasticard floor and the supports for the card headstock.

 

20200423_120632.jpg.8b1728b47955cd37e65951597912c773.jpg

  • Like 6
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

L49 (Charlie)? Thanks for posting the pics and advice. I have a stock of Johns bogies and wheels and the brass pinpoint tophat bearings. Just a couple of quick questions, did you weight the chassis ? And what thickness plasticard did you use ?

I was thinking of building it in thin sheet brass or possibly braced high density fibre board a, but I could use plasticard....

Edited by d00m
Mistake
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it was just 60 thou, it may even have been 40 thou. I didn't weight it, simply because it was only for display on the stand. If I was going to add weight, I would have done it inside the underfloor switchgear boxes, which I just represented with black plasticard. Those bogies are so free running that they dont need a lot of weight inside.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been a bit distracted by a D.I.Y.  job in the kitchen (some new shelves) but managed to get started.

The domed front roof has been molded in milliput  and thinned out by sanding the inside.  With care, I have managed to do the rivet detail using my wife's lightbox, (I knew her crafting stuff would come in useful at some point) !

 

Although I have spare metro model bogies, as this model will be static I am using some old jouef HO bogies from bits box. They are the right size and with the shoebeam attached you won't see that they aren't the correct pattern.

 

Currently can't upload photos but will do soon.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.