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My first O Gauge layout - Version 2


Savoyard
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1 hour ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Presumably you will be selling the empty boxes on eBay?!!

If you don't get rid of the boxes, then, on a technicality, you have increased your storage by 30%!

 

Mike.

The storage has been reduced in the shed, the boxes are now in the loft, out of sight and out of mind!

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1 hour ago, Baggies1961 said:

Hi Peter,

Looking great and coming along apace, Are your wall sections scratch built? Wish I had known about the Ten Commandments bridge.

Cheers

 

Julian.

Hi Julian,

 

The wall sections are all Ten Commandments.

 

I've now cut the stone and girder to size, I have made some slight adjustments to the positioning of the top stone but I am leaving it to dry before taking some more pictures. I am going to out a small extension shelf under the left hand side of the bridge and this will also allow me to put the Ten Commandments coal stage on the sidings.

 

1688329364_KnottRederring020.jpg.51a72bfbf0a7ef50cb9b5f4b9bd4ef20.jpghe 

Edited by Peter Crichton (Savoyard)
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A frustrating evening trying to fit another Fairburn, which arrived today, with sound but it wouldn't run properly due to problems with the valve gear, so that will be needing some attention or returning.

 

I did manage to fit sound to this loco prior to that frustrating few hours.

 

1146730963_KnottRederring021.jpg.e48fc0391c67091a7964fa89dc95761d.jpg

 

And not to waste the sound chip it went into this instead, and after another frustrating hour trying to find out how to get the body off, it seems to work fine.

 

1128429271_KnottRederring022.jpg.1a84b4989325dded3c19cd146b212955.jpg

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This trolley arrived today and is perfect to use for a movable table for holding the stock boxes in use.

 

 1382044628_StockTrolley01.jpg.e612972a377b4cd84ac368e053fb7a83.jpg

 

It is very sturdy and moves around freely.

Edited by Peter Crichton (Savoyard)
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The last couple of days I have been tidying up around the windows and above, so no work on the layout except today I decided to finally put sound chips in my Hattons's '60103 Flying Scotsman' and newly arrived '60012 Commonwealth of Australia'. So a little test run and a couple of photos. Various bits have fallen off the A3 and the pony truck under the cab keeps derailing even on straight track, luckily the A4 doesn't seem to have the same problem.

 

 

 

 

A meeting of the Gresleys!

1205618498_KnottRederring026.jpg.7285c49c00636bf9e54a78ebf26ab24d.jpg

Edited by Peter Crichton (Savoyard)
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Peter

 

They do look nice lined up. I know you shouldn't have to but can you stick a small weight or a blob of blu tack under the pony truck to see if it cures the derailing. The Heljans are fantastic looking loco's but they should come with some free plastic cement to glue all the bits back on.

 

Jim  

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3 hours ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

Which sound chip did you use? I want to get my A3 done.

 

Hi Ade,

 

Thanks for the fix, it was so frustrating reversing through a point going on the straight and the pony truck coming off on the check rail.

 

The sound chip in the A3 is an ESU 5XL with sounds from Digitrains, but I am thinking of changing it to a Zimo and reusing the Loksound on a Diesel - not with the A3 sound I may hasten to add! :)

 

I had a Zimo MX chip with a Britannia sound file on it again from Digitrains, and I've used that and it sounds OK, a cracking chime whistle on it.

 

I will do some video later and upload them to here.

 

 

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Hi Ade,

 

I did some test runs tonight but I think the locos need to have a run in, so I will do that later today and hopefully have some video afterwards, but here is a picture of the speaker location in the tender. I will make a false cover with real coal later. I would like to put a speaker in the loco but with my experience so far of things falling off I am a little reluctant to try at the moment.

 

872179517_KnottRederring027.jpg.c97215b75c23d208bb867f52785c639f.jpg

 

I was playing around with a couple of suggestions for coupling/uncoupling three links, but found them frustrating so I came up with this for an uncoupler and it seems to work, especially on coaching stock. Here is a You Tube video I've uploaded that hopefully proves it.

 

1726432622_ThreeLInk01.jpg.dd0fd05480625c32cf0599da9a6dbd5e.jpg

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Baggies1961 said:

Hi Peter,

looked to me like a 100% success rate on the coupling/uncoupling. Is it magnetised? Excellent.

Regards

Julian.

PS. The Gresleys look superb.

Hi Julian,

 

No it's just a piece of brass. I am looking at adding a LED rather than using the pen torch. More of that later!

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I seem to get on with 3 links etc but haven't had much experience.  I made a couple of tools:

 

P1010002-003.JPG.b40b2c99c26f199334adc9ec36b99891.JPG

 

Light is essential.  I chose these torches because the switch is thumb activated and can be done one handed.  I have had torches that take two hands to turn on.

 

Most of my sound decoders are Zimo from Digitrains and I think they are great.  I did get myself a Loksound V4 from Howes when Digitrains weren't shipping to N America (happily that has changed now).  Performance was initially disappointing but the "Autotune" feature resolved this.

 

John

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Whilst on the rolling road the wheels stopped moving but the motor was still going, I presume the gears had got out of sync as the wheels would move freely.

 

I phoned Hattons and was told to return it, which I did yesterday quite painlessly with Collect+ at my local Spar. I kept the tender as I had modified it for the speaker and Zimo sound chip.

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Derby Lightweight or Class 110?

 

I have been looking at the DMU I bought a couple of years ago. It turns out to be a shaped metal body with white metal cab ends. in fact the rear body ends are proper cab ends modified. (see photos below)

 

The fronts look like a Derby Lightweight but not totally, the windows don't look long enough and there is a missing centre light. They look more like a Class 110 but without the roof box.

 

The body sides are more accurate as a Lightweight, though I believe they never operated as 3 car sets.

 

I've stripped one so far.

 

1531150928_DMU110orDLW01.jpg.c1a388e087be00786292ae5bc3b1964a.jpg1187193017_DMU110orDLW02.jpg.8b7802f29b19b164b58da4ff3602d813.jpg

Edited by Peter Crichton (Savoyard)
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Peter

 

Are you aware that at least one of the initial batch of Derby Lightweight DMUs were converted into a pair of railcars that ran between Bletchley & Buckingham/Banbury.

 

I bought a second hand model of one of the railcars a few years back. I reduced it to its component parts as it had been assembled with what seemed the contents of a tube of EvoStick!

 

The sides of my model have a cab at each end so may well have been sold as a railcar rather than as a multiple unit.

 

I have since gradually re-assembled it but it is not yet finished. My work won't win any prizes but I like to think that it will look better than it did when I bought it.

 

I've added a representation of the lower centre marker light as well as something that looks like the jumper cable sockets that the railcars had just below the cab windows. I've also tried to include a representation of the driving cab split windows.

 

The chassis has recently had a Zimo DCC sound decoder that I bought specifically for it a couple years back fitted.

 

All that remains to be done is the application of the transfers and the protective coat of matt varnish so that I can fit the glazing and re-unite body with chassis.

 

Oh, I've just remembered that I also need to fit door handle furniture, handrails and the exhaust pipes.

Edited by Ray H
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Re the couplings. In the 3 years of being in o gauge I sometimes find the couplings just as annoying as OO gauge. 

We have Heljan who's links are formed of flat bar yet the opening on the hook makes it difficult to couple to Dapol who's links are formed of round bar.

If you look at the couplings on Heljans dog & cat fish wagons the couplings are of a slightly different design still. 

I use either a magnetic screwdriver which just holds the first link allowing me to drop it on the hook, or a bent wire attached to a small torch depending on what  I'm coupling.

When you factor in getting the bent wire caught on the various hoses it does test your patience. 

The above YouTube uncoupling clip seems OK provided you can get in at that angle. Scenic items and adjacent rolling stock may prevent otherwise.

 

Paul

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