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Renumbering, naming and weathering a Bachmann Class 47


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I have a Bachmann Class 47 in BR Blue.  I want to renumber it to 47 081 and apply the 'Odin' nameplate. 

As it so happens, the model's number is 47 001, so I could in theory just change the final '0' to an '8'.

Is this possible and, if so, how should I go about it? 

Also, if someone could point me towards a supplier of BR Blue era loco nameplates, that would be appreciated. 

Many thanks in advance. 

Stu

Edited by 9C85
Added 'weathering' to the topic title
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Yeah. I wouldn’t do that, it’ll stand out  like anything.

 

railtec decals don’t full made up tops no’s for about £1.50 product number 9991 or thereabouts .

 

there are many ways to remove numbers from a sharpened cocktail stick to using Tcut - I suggest you google search “ renumbering Bachmann rmweb” and you’ll find the numerous threads . Do t bother with the site search engine - it’s rubbish .

 

nameplates - fox transfers . Shawplan do them too but ordering is painful 

Edited by rob D2
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19 hours ago, rob D2 said:

Yeah. I wouldn’t do that, it’ll stand out  like anything.

 

railtec decals don’t full made up tops no’s for about £1.50 product number 9991 or thereabouts .

 

there are many ways to remove numbers from a sharpened cocktail stick to using Tcut - I suggest you google search “ renumbering Bachmann rmweb” and you’ll find the numerous threads . Do t bother with the site search engine - it’s rubbish .

 

nameplates - fox transfers . Shawplan do them too but ordering is painful 

Thanks for the info. I got quoted a price of  £50 for renumbering professionally, which adds 30% to the cost of the loco, so I will probably look into getting the gear to do it myself. 

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1 hour ago, 9C85 said:

Thanks for the info. I got quoted a price of  £50 for renumbering professionally, which adds 30% to the cost of the loco, so I will probably look into getting the gear to do it myself. 

I’m reasonably adept at it. When I get a chance later I’ll post some pictures of how I do it.

 

railtec transfers, rattle can of humbrol Matt varnish and bottle of T cut 

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1 hour ago, rob D2 said:

I’m reasonably adept at it. When I get a chance later I’ll post some pictures of how I do it.

 

railtec transfers, rattle can of humbrol Matt varnish and bottle of T cut 

That's great. Really appreciate it 

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Fox do ODIN etched plates. I did it a while back. I have started to mask off the windows and give the loco a quick dusting of tamiya clear these days,after finding it to be quite good. Be warned though once you get your confidence up you will be doing a lot more 

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Alright ,

cotton wool bud dipped in Tcut. Mask off round your number , I make it a rectangle. Reason being Tcut leaves a shiny surface which eventually we will hide, easier to do small area.

 

rub  slowly and gently , eventually the white number will start to disappear ( doesn’t take much t cut ), remember it is an abrasive so you will see “ blue “ on the bud as well. As soon as the numbers gone you will have a shiny patch where it was.

take the masking tape off - immediately clean off all Tcut with water on a bud - if you leave any on it dries white and it’s very hard to get rid of then. Don’t let it get in grilles , vents etc very hard to get dried residue off.

 

 

soak your railtec numbers in water, when they are moveable , transfer numbers on backing into loco side . The wet backing gives the numbers something to slide on once they come off. Gently manoeuvre transfers off - I use two cocktail sticks for this . Align number . Bolt as necessary with lint free cloth or cotton bud . Don’t leave hairs !

 

when it’s dry , spray or brush Matt varnish over the area of the number ( I’d mask the rest of loco off ) or in my example below the whole loco was glossy as I’d used Tcut to remove the whole of the Bachmann factory weathering , so I sprayed the whole side having masked off the roof and grilles up there as they were a bit dusty .

 

i sprayed 2 light coats , with an hour between. If you spray too many coats the loco starts going white due to the agents in the varnish . 2 coats disguises the shiny Tcut patch.

 
this is 47055 - railtec numbers and data patch 

 

 

 

A408F7A4-011B-496E-BFBC-04F8FF00F676.jpeg

0262D61D-A28B-4E97-A9D9-7EE2907DD9F1.jpeg

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This one is a work in progress. I originally changed the number, and then out on too much varnish so it went a bit white. I’ve now change the number and moved the data panel and as you can see, it needs another coat 

 

 

8EF61055-F23A-4C64-9636-D7458E4C3571.jpeg

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The issue with Humbrol varnish described here is not uncommon. I used it for years with mixed results but now smear by Testors. Much more controllable and subtle, and the can doesnt clog and become unusable after a single use.

 

Its certainly possible to get very good results as Rob describes with care .... heres the last one I have done,  individual Fox transfers digits finished with Testors

 

Give it a go, best way to get a unique loco.

1826A42E-C1C5-4A9A-88CF-1F9171A34183.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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14 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

The issue with Humbrol varnish described here is not uncommon. I used it for years with mixed results but now smear by Testors. Much more controllable and subtle, and the can doesnt clog and become unusable after a single use.

 

Its certainly possible to get very good results as Rob describes with care .... heres the last one I have done,  individual Fox transfers digits finished with Testors

 

Give it a go, best way to get a unique loco.

1826A42E-C1C5-4A9A-88CF-1F9171A34183.jpeg

That's very nice finish there Phil...

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I’ve got three can s of testers, but actually prefer humbrol now. I find it a bit hard to control and it dries Matt....actually MATT......it’s like a black hole I find...

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Strange isnt it Rob - I would say the same about Humbrol. If I had a fiver for every can that I have only managed to use once and which has then clogged and gone in the bin I would be a rich man! Thats with me clearing the nozzle after use, shaking until my hand falls off, standing in a bowl of hot water, mumbling incantations etc

 

I havent mastered air brushing yet but my son James has - no doubt that is the most controllable and least wasteful.

 

 

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Hmmm, 

yes, Phil, I’ve had a few issues, but never a blocked nozzle. The last few cans have been fine.

 

the ones that really block fast are anything with “ railmatch “ written on them, I went so far to buy ten spare nozzles.

 

I have an airbrush , but I haven’t  go it out the wrapper in 4 years - seem to have a psychological block about the hassle factor 

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2 hours ago, rob D2 said:

Hmmm, 

yes, Phil, I’ve had a few issues, but never a blocked nozzle. The last few cans have been fine.

 

the ones that really block fast are anything with “ railmatch “ written on them, I went so far to buy ten spare nozzles.

 

I have an airbrush , but I haven’t  go it out the wrapper in 4 years - seem to have a psychological block about the hassle factor 

 

Totally agree on both of these issues, the blocked Railmatch 'money down the toilet' rattle can nozzles AND the inertia/lethargy putting me off using my airbrush. Glad it's not just me!

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Maybe whilst I’m still furloughed ( ha, laugh, there’s no job to go back to ), I should spend a whole day getting the airbrush out and doing something....but then it has to be a nice weather day to spray in the garage....and if it is I want to be bojo exercising on my bike not in the gloomey  garage ....QED

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5 hours ago, rob D2 said:

Maybe whilst I’m still furloughed ( ha, laugh, there’s no job to go back to ), I should spend a whole day getting the airbrush out and doing something....but then it has to be a nice weather day to spray in the garage....and if it is I want to be bojo exercising on my bike not in the gloomey  garage ....QED

Once you turn to the darkside of airbrush Rob theres no going back its bugg...:danced:

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 29/04/2020 at 09:06, 9C85 said:

Thanks for the info. I got quoted a price of  £50 for renumbering professionally, which adds 30% to the cost of the loco, so I will probably look into getting the gear to do it myself. 

You got quoted £50? I'll do it for you for for £30 

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Still not touched the locos yet. I have had a bit of half hearted go at dry brushing on the GUV, but I am concentrating on scenery at the moment.  I know where to find you should I need your assistance :huh:

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28 minutes ago, 9C85 said:

Still not touched the locos yet. I have had a bit of half hearted go at dry brushing on the GUV, but I am concentrating on scenery at the moment.  I know where to find you should I need your assistance :huh:

I’m sure you’ll be fine, here’s another I’m doing right now.

 

9AB69D7C-2EDF-4DEF-A909-A44268DB9E7E.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 29/04/2020 at 12:30, rob D2 said:

Alright ,

cotton wool bud dipped in Tcut. Mask off round your number , I make it a rectangle. Reason being Tcut leaves a shiny surface which eventually we will hide, easier to do small area.

 

rub  slowly and gently , eventually the white number will start to disappear ( doesn’t take much t cut ), remember it is an abrasive so you will see “ blue “ on the bud as well. As soon as the numbers gone you will have a shiny patch where it was.

take the masking tape off - immediately clean off all Tcut with water on a bud - if you leave any on it dries white and it’s very hard to get rid of then. Don’t let it get in grilles , vents etc very hard to get dried residue off.

 

 

soak your railtec numbers in water, when they are moveable , transfer numbers on backing into loco side . The wet backing gives the numbers something to slide on once they come off. Gently manoeuvre transfers off - I use two cocktail sticks for this . Align number . Bolt as necessary with lint free cloth or cotton bud . Don’t leave hairs !

 

when it’s dry , spray or brush Matt varnish over the area of the number ( I’d mask the rest of loco off ) or in my example below the whole loco was glossy as I’d used Tcut to remove the whole of the Bachmann factory weathering , so I sprayed the whole side having masked off the roof and grilles up there as they were a bit dusty .

 

i sprayed 2 light coats , with an hour between. If you spray too many coats the loco starts going white due to the agents in the varnish . 2 coats disguises the shiny Tcut patch.

 
this is 47055 - railtec numbers and data patch 

 

 

 

A408F7A4-011B-496E-BFBC-04F8FF00F676.jpeg

0262D61D-A28B-4E97-A9D9-7EE2907DD9F1.jpeg

Hello rob D2

 

I was in Tesco earlier and they had T-Cut on the shelves so I got myself a can.

 

I have had a go at your method of removing numbers on my poor little CCT which is the test bed for all my modelling improvements.

 

I was surprised how much effort it took. I started off 'slowly and gently ' as per your instructions, but in the end I was applying quite a bit of pressure. 

 

Anyway, the result looks OK. I will get some number transfer next to try and finish the job before having a go at the 47. Thanks again for the great instructions 

20200602_205301.jpg.da45aadf5a0ed2235fbf8b32f0286a7f.jpg20200602_210242.jpg.b6b274ca5db97d3a98fe0ba07aab23d0.jpg

 

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I watched the excellent Everard Junction video on weathering locos last night and I have now ordered a jar of Humbrol Black wash to have a go at weathering the grilles, doors etc on the 47 (I have ordered numbers but no nameplates yet). Do I need to apply anything before (and/or after) the wash? The Humbrol video shows it being applied after a coat of Humbrol Clear but I have read mixed reviews of this. The loco is in its factory finish unweathered blue. Ta

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 29/04/2020 at 10:45, rob D2 said:

I’m reasonably adept at it. When I get a chance later I’ll post some pictures of how I do it.

 

railtec transfers, rattle can of humbrol Matt varnish and bottle of T cut 

Hi Rob

A great lesson you gave on re-numbering but may I suggest the use of liquid Brasso in preference to T Cut.

as you mentioned, avoid getting T cut into vents and grills, not as big a problem with Brasso as it cleans off easier.

Otherwise, your process is spot on.

 

 

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6 minutes ago, JohnC said:

Hi Rob

A great lesson you gave on re-numbering but may I suggest the use of liquid Brasso in preference to T Cut.

as you mentioned, avoid getting T cut into vents and grills, not as big a problem with Brasso as it cleans off easier.

Otherwise, your process is spot on.

 

 

Never tried it to be honest, as my bottle of Tcut has lasted forever. Does it leave a shiny surface ?

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  • 9C85 changed the title to Renumbering, naming and weathering a Bachmann Class 47

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