9C85 Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 20 minutes ago, Squirrel Rail said: Hi - I’ve had the same problem with over tightened screws. Sometimes ( if your lucky) you can try and tighten it a little and then try and loosen it again as it can give you a bit of purchase on the head. If not there’s no problem with just drilling off the head. I used my 18v cordless which has variable speed so you can drill it slowly thus stopping any heat build up. Make sure you have the body on something soft and you hold it tightly so nothing can slip. The screws are really soft so a new drill bit will go through it really easily. Good luck cheers Jerry Thanks Jerry. You reminded me about my variable speed drill. I'll probably give that a go. Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 19 hours ago, Squirrel Rail said: Hi - I’ve had the same problem with over tightened screws. Sometimes ( if your lucky) you can try and tighten it a little and then try and loosen it again as it can give you a bit of purchase on the head. Just tried this and, Hey Preston , it worked! My laserglaze came today, so I can hopefully progress this project to a conclusion this weekend. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 24, 2020 Author Share Posted October 24, 2020 So... Laserglaze. Undoubtedly a good product in the right hands, but I have overstretched myself this time in terms of my ability, dexterity and patience. I managed to break one of the engine compartment windows and a cab door window before they even got to the loco, and another cab door window cracked when I was fitting it. I also managed to break off another one of the stepping plates above the buffer beam, so I have removed them all. I had to remove the wipers for the cab windows, so now I need to replace those too. I bought a new set of screws to reattach the bodyshell to the chassis. That is hopefully the last time I will need to use them. I intend to try a bit of weathering powder application, and possibly get some new wipers (suggestions welcome) but then I am not doing anything more to this loco, as everything I do makes it look worse. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Well at least you had a go with it ! It’s all a learning curve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 First attempt with Tamiya Weathering Master powders 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2020 (edited) looking great..... super modelling. Shawplan do etched wipers.... Laser glaze might need a touch taken off the edges with fine abrasive sometimes.... particularly on a repainted model. And just wondering if a touch of Matt black on the dropper arms might make the kaydees less prominent? Cheers Edited November 14, 2020 by Phil Bullock 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 1 hour ago, Phil Bullock said: looking great..... super modelling. Shawplan do etched wipers.... Laser glaze might need a touch taken off the edges with fine abrasive sometimes.... particularly on a respirated model. And just wondering if a touch of Matt black on the dropper arms might make the kaydees less prominent? Cheers Thanks a lot. Yes, I have contacted Shawplan today about the wipers. I used 1500 grit wet and dry, as per the instructional blog from Shawplan, but they obviously need a bit more fettling. The problem with the cab front windows is that I believe both 'long' (i.e. top and bottom) edges are slightly curved, so it's difficult to take off an even amount without squaring them off. I have mentioned it before, but by far the best way to spot anything requiring improvement is to put a photo/video of it online I was starting to get disillusioned by working on this model, as can probably be gleaned from my post yesterday, but I found the weathering process using the powders to be quite therapeutic- far less stressful than airbrushing, and reversible if need be. I still intend to use my airbrush, having 'got all the gear' (as the ventriloquist said), but I will probably limit it to griming up underframes and dirtying coach roofs from now on. Thanks again for the advice 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2020 We have all learned by experience.... sometimes bitter. Great to see you have come up the curve... the next one will be easier! Find what works for you and stick to it..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 41 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said: ... the next one will be easier! I am getting a Peak tomorrow... the one with the white roof and bodyside stripes, and the non NEM standard height NEM coupler box. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2020 What’s the Peak to become? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said: What’s the Peak to become? The same one, but with all over blue body. Going to try just repainting the roof and stripes and weathering to blend in . I will have to perform some surgery on the coupler though. I have found a thread on the forum covering that 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2020 If you want to remove the stripe Oven Pride is the way to go. Will remove all printing ..... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mick Bonwick Posted October 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2020 2 hours ago, Phil Bullock said: Find what works for you and stick to it..... But make sure you use the right glue! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 16 hours ago, Phil Bullock said: If you want to remove the stripe Oven Pride is the way to go. Will remove all printing ..... Interested to hear how you apply it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 28, 2020 Author Share Posted October 28, 2020 I have just received my wipers from Shawplan and have a few questions. Do I use the whole sprue, or are the 'whiter' end sections just holding the etch in place? I am guessing I need the shorter wipers ? but I will check against the loco. I discarded the original plastic wipers when doingthe glazing. How do I attach them to the loco? I can’t see any obvious pins/lugs/nubbins or whatever they are called to make use of the tiny holes which held the plastic ones on the loco, so I am assuming superglue? Finally, do I need to paint them, in which case I guess I need to prime them first? Just when you think something is finished.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 28, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2020 DP45.10 or DP45.11 are the ones you need depending on whether you want twin or single arm wipers. Yes minimal super glue.... thick better than thin, the tiniest spot possible. No need to prime...and in your photo the triangular ends are the etch carriers, not actually used. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted October 28, 2020 Author Share Posted October 28, 2020 Looking at examples online and photos of the real thing, I believe I can use the white section between the triangle and the 'bulkier' section of the etch as the pin/ nubbin in the hole in the loco. I might open up the hole with a pin vice, bend the etch at the junction of the nubbin and the wipers, and dab a bit of superglue in the hole when fixing. Not painting these - they will probably darkenot with age Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel Rail Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 On 28/10/2020 at 17:38, Phil Bullock said: DP45.10 or DP45.11 are the ones you need depending on whether you want twin or single arm wipers. Yes minimal super glue.... thick better than thin, the tiniest spot possible. No need to prime...and in your photo the triangular ends are the etch carriers, not actually used. Be careful with superglue if you’re glazing is in- it can fog- clearfix, orPVA is much safer and will hold them in place and allow a bit of adjustment if needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted October 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2020 58 minutes ago, Squirrel Rail said: Be careful with superglue if you’re glazing is in- it can fog- clearfix, orPVA is much safer and will hold them in place and allow a bit of adjustment if needed. Agree with the standard thin superglue but never had an issue with the thicker gel types .... which are much better for most modelling purposes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Huw Griffiths Posted October 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Squirrel Rail said: Be careful with superglue if you’re glazing is in- it can fog- clearfix, orPVA is much safer and will hold them in place and allow a bit of adjustment if needed. 14 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said: Agree with the standard thin superglue but never had an issue with the thicker gel types .... which are much better for most modelling purposes. In a previous job, I routinely used thin super glue when fitting resistance strain gauges to specimens. I often needed to stop the stuff going where it wasn't wanted - a particularly effective method involved covering the areas around a bond that needed to stay "clean" with plastic adhesive tape, well pressed down (especially at the edges). Sellotape worked well on clean, smooth surfaces - if the surfaces had bumps and dips, PVC insulating tape (preferably very thin) worked better. I later did some experiments with windows on scrap coach bodyshells - with both sides of the windows masked off in this way - the dodge seemed to work. The same approach also seemed to work when using solvents to fix clear styrene to the opaque stuff (such as scrap coach body panels). I can't guarantee this method - but it might be worth doing some experiments. Huw. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel Rail Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Phil Bullock said: Agree with the standard thin superglue but never had an issue with the thicker gel types .... which are much better for most modelling purposes. 1 hour ago, Phil Bullock said: Agree with the standard thin superglue but never had an issue with the thicker gel types .... which are much better for most modelling purposes. Any superglue, thick or thin can fog clear or even the slightest miss placed dot can mess up a transparency. The alternative I suggested removes either of these possibilities. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 I use the deluxe materials clear and glaze , I think it’s called, dries clear if it goes astray 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel Rail Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 38 minutes ago, rob D2 said: I use the deluxe materials clear and glaze , I think it’s called, dries clear if it goes astray Yep good stuff, I use formula 500 canopy glue for all glazing for the same reasons!! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9C85 Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 (edited) I have just tried fitting the Shawplan etched wipers. I didn't even get as far as trying to glue them on. Way too difficult to for me to even get them off the sprue without either bending them or losing them. Instructions would be useful. I will look at alternatives Edited December 6, 2020 by 9C85 Typo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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