Renumbering, naming and weathering a Bachmann Class 47

[JohnC]

Yes, it leaves a shiny surface just like T Cut

[adb968008]

Bachman diesels are the easiest locos to renumber / rename.

30 seconds in.. cocktail stick and gentle scratching takes seconds.

 

As for 47001, these both used to be 47001and we’re renumbered the same way..

 

 

no varnish, numbers off clean. 

my trick is concentrate only on the number 2mm or so strokes rubbing on it, start gentle until you feel it scratch then slowly erode the edges of the number.  Nameplates, Plaques on Bachmann are equally easy.
 

 

Edited June 21, 2020 by adb968008

[9C85]

On 21/06/2020 at 13:34, adb968008 said:

Bachman diesels are the easiest locos to renumber / rename.

30 seconds in.. cocktail stick and gentle scratching takes seconds.

 

As for 47001, these both used to be 47001and we’re renumbered the same way..

 

 

no varnish, numbers off clean. 

my trick is concentrate only on the number 2mm or so strokes rubbing on it, start gentle until you feel it scratch then slowly erode the edges of the number.  Nameplates, Plaques on Bachmann are equally easy.
 

 

 

Thank you SO MUCH for sharing this tip. I got some cocktail sticks yesterday and just now i was in the garage and thought I'd try it on the 47. I couldn't believe how easily the numbers came off. If I said that it took a minute per number - and by that I mean '47 001', I would probably be exaggerating. You have turned something that I was dreading making a mess of into one of the easiest things I have done so far on my layout. Thanks again. I might have a go with the number transfers tomorrow.

Edited July 9, 2020 by 9C85
Typo

[9C85]

 

Railtec Transfers added, now needs 'Odin' nameplates. 

I masked off around the number and gave it two coats of Testors Dullcote, but now there's a definite lighter patch behind the number. It's more noticeable at 'ground' level but not so much at the normal viewing angle. Also it appears that some varnish got onto the cabside windows . I don't know what will lift it off without fogging the glazing?

Next job is the nameplates and plucking up courage to weather the loco.

[rob D2]

Testers is an incredibly flat varnish - I don’t like it . It kills the colour completely on anything with a bit of sheen . There were lots of recommendations here - but I brought three cans and only used on one loco before going back to humbrol.

 

id suggest it’ll always look different where it’s sprayed - mask off the windows and do the whole side and you’ll get a uniformity . Use maskol on windows before spraying varnish is easiest , otherwise it’ll knacker  the glazing As you may have just found out . I’m not sure how/ if you can reverse that, but maybe someone has a tip.

Edited July 17, 2020 by rob D2

[tractor_37260]

Try a little T-Cut on a cotton bud, it may remove the varnish from the glazing

HTH

 

[Phil Bullock]

And if all else fails fit Lazerglaze

[9C85]

 

Nameplates fitted

[Phil Mc]

I find the ‘cocktail stick’ method of removal is great if nothing is going back in the same place (I.e. removing unwanted printed nameplates), as there’s more chance of the area retaining the same finish as the surrounding area.

If transfers are to go back in the same place (I.e. renumbering) I use the T-cut method, as the gloss patch is desired for the replacement transfer.

I fully agree with the previously mentioned warning of not getting T-cut in grilles, etc, as it’s a real pain to remove !

But I don’t put masking tape around the work area, as I find it easier to disguise the slightly irregular shape with varnish, rather than a sharp-edge.
Just goes to show there’s no right or wrong way, but the only way to find the method you’re most comfortable with is to have a go !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

[9C85]

Can anyone advise on how to remove the bogie frames from the Bachmann Class 47 for painting? I have just airbrushed my Class 25 without removing the frames and had some running issues due to paint on the wheel treads  ( sorted with thinners and cotton buds).

I would quite like to paint the 47's wheel faces and add quartering marks to the tyres. I have watched and Everard Junction video on weathering a 47, but the bogie dismantling bit was sped up on time lapse 

[Phil Bullock]

It comes off the metal bogie casting at the rear of the bogie. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to prise it off, hinge it away and lift clear of the lugs at the front. Reverse the process when refitting; make sure all the axle bushes align and are trapped by the frame when refitting.

While you have the bogie frame off it’s worth dulling down the visible parts of the brass pick up strips too....

Edited July 28, 2020 by Phil Bullock
Spelling Timothy

[rob D2]

Was their quartering marks in the early 80s ? I can’t remember seeing them 

[Phil Mc]

1 hour ago, Phil Bullock said:

It comes off the metal bogie casting at the rear of the bogie. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to prise it off, hinge it away and lift clear of the lugs at the front. Reverse the process when refitting; make sure all the axle bushes align and are trapped by the frame when refitting.

While you have the bogie frame off it’s worth dulling down the visible parts of the brass pick up strips too....

 

Pic, to back up PB's instruction.

Whether you use a screwdriver or a file as shown, try to get one that is as wide as you can in the gap, or you run the risk of cracking the plastic.

 

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

[9C85]

Thanks for all the helpful advice.  I will try later. 

[9C85]

3 hours ago, rob D2 said:

Was their quartering marks in the early 80s ? I can’t remember seeing them 

I think we are both on about the same thing but by 'quartering marks' I mean the white lines painted on the wheel rims at 90 degree intervals. Someone told me that they were used in brake testing?

I am pretty sure that I saw them on blue locos and in my spotting days, which would have ended around 1980? Happy to be corrected though.

Cheers 

[Phil Bullock]

3 hours ago, Phil Mc said:

 

Pic, to back up PB's instruction.

Whether you use a screwdriver or a file as shown, try to get one that is as wide as you can in the gap, or you run the risk of cracking the plastic.

 

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

Thanks Phil M away from home so couldn’t post picture!

[rob D2]

57 minutes ago, 9C85 said:

I think we are both on about the same thing but by 'quartering marks' I mean the white lines painted on the wheel rims at 90 degree intervals. Someone told me that they were used in brake testing?

I am pretty sure that I saw them on blue locos and in my spotting days, which would have ended around 1980? Happy to be corrected though.

Cheers 

I believe they indicate when the tyre, slips around the wheel. Only painted on the raised edge of course , not across the whole wheel.

I stand corrected....just found a pic 0f 47450 on 1980 and the marks seem to be visible....but not seen in any others not sure if that’s becuase the wheels are dirty or that it’s unusual 

Edited July 28, 2020 by rob D2

[Squirrel Rail]

14 minutes ago, rob D2 said:

I believe they indicate when the tyre, slips around the wheel. Only painted on the raised edge of course , not across the whole wheel.

I stand corrected....just found a pic 0f 47450 on 1980 and the marks seem to be visible....

Hi Rob, yep it is to show tyre creep, also noticed on race cars and aircraft wheels too, Cheers Jerry

[Squirrel Rail]

6 hours ago, 9C85 said:

Can anyone advise on how to remove the bogie frames from the Bachmann Class 47 for painting? I have just airbrushed my Class 25 without removing the frames and had some running issues due to paint on the wheel treads  ( sorted with thinners and cotton buds).

I would quite like to paint the 47's wheel faces and add quartering marks to the tyres. I have watched and Everard Junction video on weathering a 47, but the bogie dismantling bit was sped up on time lapse 

I find the easiest way to paint the wheels without removing the side frames is to use a 9V battery to move them round as I'm spraying. Likewise the same to clean off any overspray with thinners. Doesn't always work with DCC locos but I find the the bogie tower tops on Bachmann 47s are often a bit "wobbly" to say the least and levering off the frame would  worry me that it would exacerbate the problem.   

[9C85]

3 hours ago, 9C85 said:

Thanks for all the helpful advice.  I will try later. 

I have just followed your advice and got the bogie frames off.  I was surprised how easily they came off. I wasn't surprised how difficult they were (for me with my sausage fingers) to put back on 

[Phil Mc]

23 hours ago, 9C85 said:

I think we are both on about the same thing but by 'quartering marks' I mean the white lines painted on the wheel rims at 90 degree intervals. Someone told me that they were used in brake testing?

I am pretty sure that I saw them on blue locos and in my spotting days, which would have ended around 1980? Happy to be corrected though.

Cheers 

 

You sure they're at 90 degree intervals ??

All my 47 pics show 3 lines per wheel !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

PS

If you have any of the Fox Transfers sheets of individual digits, I've been known to use the line that's supposed to help with lining up the numbers, to represent the wheel marks !!

[rob D2]

40 minutes ago, Phil Mc said:

 

You sure they're at 90 degree intervals ??

All my 47 pics show 3 lines per wheel !!

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

PS

If you have any of the Fox Transfers sheets of individual digits, I've been known to use the line that's supposed to help with lining up the numbers, to represent the wheel marks !!

Agree , they are 120 degrees 

[9C85]

27 minutes ago, rob D2 said:

Agree , they are 120 degrees 

 

Every day's a school day 

[9C85]

I am almost at the stage where I am going to weather the 47. I ordered some more Railmatch Sleeper Grime which has arrived today, but it appears that I have ordered acrylic instead of the enamel I have been using and got used to.  I have acrylic thinners so that isn't an issue, but I wondered would it look odd if I still used enamel Roof Dirt to do the roof of the model? I am guessing weathering is weathering? Also I keep asking, but should I matt varnish either before or after weathering? I have got some IPA to clean it beforehand.

[Squirrel Rail]

IMHO it doesn’t matter if you use a mix of acrylic on the bogies and enamel on the roof as the finish is satin or Matt either way. I personally avoid varnish and it isn’t a necessity but personal choice. I would say maskol out all the glass before varnish as there’s nothing worse than a loco that looks like it’s got toilet windows in it good luck and look forward to seeing it!