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Middleton Top and the C&HPR


JustinDean
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I'm afraid that I have taken the easy way out and fitted my NLR Tank body to the Electrotren chassis. Not without problems though as I seem to be getting intermittent problems, probably with the DCC chip so not a modelling problem as such. 

 

It's not up to your standards of detail but it will do me (for the moment).

 

Love the water tank. I was just considering building a model of that myself so that's given me a target of standard to aim at!

 

Look forward to seeing more.

IMG_20210224_174312_resized.jpg

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1 hour ago, highpeakman said:

I'm afraid that I have taken the easy way out and fitted my NLR Tank body to the Electrotren chassis. Not without problems though as I seem to be getting intermittent problems, probably with the DCC chip so not a modelling problem as such. 

 

It's not up to your standards of detail but it will do me (for the moment).

 

Love the water tank. I was just considering building a model of that myself so that's given me a target of standard to aim at!

 

Look forward to seeing more.

IMG_20210224_174312_resized.jpg

Looking good! Who’s transfers did you use on the tank? 
Regarding the water tank Geraint’s model on Middlepeak set the bar for me. I can see plenty of issues with mine but for a first attempt I can live with it - it’s a learning process and an opportunity to develop skills for me after all. 

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1 hour ago, JustinDean said:

Looking good! Who’s transfers did you use on the tank? 
Regarding the water tank Geraint’s model on Middlepeak set the bar for me. I can see plenty of issues with mine but for a first attempt I can live with it - it’s a learning process and an opportunity to develop skills for me after all. 

Hi Jay. 

A while back we discussed using the Wolf (Modelmaster) Rub on transfers. I used them on my two Hornby J94s. That was OK but I didn't find it as easy to use the rub ons as I expected to. As always the problem is making sure that the individual numbers are in line and correctly spaced out when looking through the backing paper. I stress that I am not criticising the product and that it's probably just me as I currently have a problem affecting my hand which is making some modelling jobs, including positioning, a bit tricky. My eyesight isn't what it was either - getting old! :mellow:

 

For the NLR Tank I went back to use some (very old) HMRS Pressfix transfers that I had tucked away many, many years ago. It took a while and a couple of experiments with different sizes before I was happy. Even now I am not entirely sure if I got the size (or position) correct but have decided to live with it. I found that it was a little easier to manipulate the Pressfix numbers into place (if kept wet) whereas the rub ons were a bit trickier to see the exact position through the backing before rubbing - once rubbed they were fixed of course so I had to remove individual numbers on a couple of occasions as I hadn't got them aligned correctly. I have now bought some Microsol and Microset to try in future on adding numbers - an 8F waiting to be done at the moment. 

 

I think both types look fine - I hope - and, like all the modelling jobs we do, it is a matter of individual preference. The advantage of the Wolf transfers was that the numbers are of correct size and colour. 

 

Here are the J94s with the Wolf transfers.

IMG_20210103_124449.jpg

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40 minutes ago, highpeakman said:

Hi Jay. 

A while back we discussed using the Wolf (Modelmaster) Rub on transfers. I used them on my two Hornby J94s. That was OK but I didn't find it as easy to use the rub ons as I expected to. As always the problem is making sure that the individual numbers are in line and correctly spaced out when looking through the backing paper. I stress that I am not criticising the product and that it's probably just me as I currently have a problem affecting my hand which is making some modelling jobs, including positioning, a bit tricky. My eyesight isn't what it was either - getting old! :mellow:

 

For the NLR Tank I went back to use some (very old) HMRS Pressfix transfers that I had tucked away many, many years ago. It took a while and a couple of experiments with different sizes before I was happy. Even now I am not entirely sure if I got the size (or position) correct but have decided to live with it. I found that it was a little easier to manipulate the Pressfix numbers into place (if kept wet) whereas the rub ons were a bit trickier to see the exact position through the backing before rubbing - once rubbed they were fixed of course so I had to remove individual numbers on a couple of occasions as I hadn't got them aligned correctly. I have now bought some Microsol and Microset to try in future on adding numbers - an 8F waiting to be done at the moment. 

 

I think both types look fine - I hope - and, like all the modelling jobs we do, it is a matter of individual preference. The advantage of the Wolf transfers was that the numbers are of correct size and colour. 

 

Here are the J94s with the Wolf transfers.

IMG_20210103_124449.jpg

Thanks for that! Useful to know. 
The weathering on the J94’s looks great - you just need some wooden shutters by the cab opening now ;-) 

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2 hours ago, JustinDean said:

Thanks for that! Useful to know. 
The weathering on the J94’s looks great - you just need some wooden shutters by the cab opening now ;-) 

Thanks for the comments. Still a few detail things I will add to the weathering  - oily marks, etc - but I am always wary of overdoing it. As others have found, I find that photographs tend to shine spotlights on all the faults.

 

One shutter already made for testing but not yet fitted.

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Who doesn’t love a grubby little hut?

I've spent the best part of last week making the shed that sits next to Middleton Top’s water tank. I’m finally happy with this after weathering a step to far then working back again. There’s a photo of the prototype on page 1 of this thread for comparison. 
made from plasticard, Intentio roof slates with glazing made from microscope slides and bars painted in. Going to switch over to some other tasks now while still waiting for loco parts. 

5612D345-9A1E-4214-BBD8-6D8565209458.jpeg

AB7FF352-2D62-40F9-94A1-FB48930CCD39.jpeg

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Somehow I’ve become embroiled in a WWS Scenics diorama competition. 18”x18” to contain grass, rocks, walls and a copse on top of a hill. Obviously I’m going to create a slice of C&HPR. Today I’ve glued some rough cut foam together:

2FF45F98-5DBA-4698-80F8-C6056A65CF45.jpeg

Edited by JustinDean
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Jay,

 

When it comes to incline rollers, I used N gauge wagon wheels mounted face to face on a short 1mm diameter axle, which was then inserted into a 'box' cut from square section brass tube. They ran well on Middlepeak for nearly 20 years!

 

Geraint

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Hi Jay ref your post 28/12/20 I am pretty sure 68030 and 68034 both retained early crests and numbers on bunker sides, 68013 late crest numbers on tank, 68068 retained high bunker and had round buffers when I saw it (probably worked from Cromford wharf end) the rest had oval buffers.

cheers malc

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22 hours ago, malc60015 said:

Hi Jay ref your post 28/12/20 I am pretty sure 68030 and 68034 both retained early crests and numbers on bunker sides, 68013 late crest numbers on tank, 68068 retained high bunker and had round buffers when I saw it (probably worked from Cromford wharf end) the rest had oval buffers.

cheers malc

Looks like 68013 went through both iterations:

 

68013 5.jpg

68013 4.jpg

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23 hours ago, malc60015 said:

Hi Jay ref your post 28/12/20 I am pretty sure 68030 and 68034 both retained early crests and numbers on bunker sides, 68013 late crest numbers on tank, 68068 retained high bunker and had round buffers when I saw it (probably worked from Cromford wharf end) the rest had oval buffers.

cheers malc

Thanks for flagging this up - i'll update my spreadsheet accordingly!

68030:

 

68030 1.jpg

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23 hours ago, Middlepeak said:

Jay,

 

When it comes to incline rollers, I used N gauge wagon wheels mounted face to face on a short 1mm diameter axle, which was then inserted into a 'box' cut from square section brass tube. They ran well on Middlepeak for nearly 20 years!

 

Geraint

Aye up Geraint! 

I ordered some N gauge disc wheels after the recommendation you gave me some time ago so thanks again for that. What size brass box section did you use?

Cheers!

Jay

 

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On 24/03/2021 at 20:18, JustinDean said:

I ordered some N gauge disc wheels after the recommendation you gave me some time ago so thanks again for that. What size brass box section did you use?

Jay,

 

Sorry, the items concerned are in the loft and a bit inaccessible at the moment!

 

It was a standard K&S brass tube. The wheels are 6mm in diameter and the axle sits in bearings soldered in to the top of the tube, with a small amount filed of the other two faces to give clearance for the wheels. On that basis I reckon the external dimension was 1/4 inch (6.3mm)

 

Geraint 

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10 hours ago, JustinDean said:

Just a Friday night teaser of a little something I’ve been working on:

 

647155FE-283B-4415-920B-89F7E7329ADE.jpeg

 

 

Morning Justin, 

 

One of those little chaps  would look quite the part on Sheep Dip.....mmmm

 

Food for thought. 

 

 

Rob. 

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8 hours ago, Middlepeak said:

Jay,

 

Sorry, the items concerned are in the loft and a bit inaccessible at the moment!

 

It was a standard K&S brass tube. The wheels are 6mm in diameter and the axle sits in bearings soldered in to the top of the tube, with a small amount filed of the other two faces to give clearance for the wheels. On that basis I reckon the external dimension was 1/4 inch (6.3mm)

 

Geraint 

Good to know as I’ve ordered 6.3mm!

Cheers Geraint!

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2 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Morning Justin, 

 

One of those little chaps  would look quite the part on Sheep Dip.....mmmm

 

Food for thought. 

 

 

Rob. 


The print run will be done over next week Rob - I’ll see how they come out and if you want one Rob we can sort that out. They’ll be pretty cheap!
Some handrails will need to be added and I need to figure out how I’m going to mount the wheels also. 

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