Jump to content
 

Middleton Top and the C&HPR


JustinDean
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

In the quest to find decent dry stone wall for Middleton, because basically I lack the patience to make meters of the stuff from DAS, I’ve come across these moulded pieces on ebay photographed below. The quest thus far has had me purchase walling from Bachmann, Jarvis and some other crap that was foam with grey scatter glued to it. Jonathon @Rowsley17D also highlighted one of the small manufacturers (the name escapes me) on his thread which looked decent. I ordered some but still didn’t feel it was quite right for my layout.
These wall sections I received today seem like the best I’ve come across. They have a slight ‘A’ cross section which you would expect from dry stone wall, the stone pattern doesn’t appear to repeat obviously and the stones themselves are the right shape and size. I’d be interested to hear what Al @Alister_G  and Geraint @Middlepeak have to say….

 

Heres the eBay link should anyone be interested:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/74-STONE-WALLING-00-gauge-BRAND-NEW-BOXED-/331302061547?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

283370FE-9372-4CE7-9AB2-EE7B8EC3A847.jpeg

F27069AA-03D5-4732-8E61-E4C452DD4065.jpeg

Edited by JustinDean
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I've had something similar off the net and appeared to be made from Plaster of Paris. They looked to be a bit of a rip-off of the Hornby versions which do have curved sections.  Like most ready-to-plonk walls they are not very high and can only be used in straight sections and do not follow contours. The foam variety you mention came from 

https://www.osbornsmodels.com/

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay,

 

Can you provide some dimensions please? Height, length of each piece, plus some idea of cross section. Also it would be interesting to see how easy or difficult it is to disguise the joints. Is it pliable?

 

Regards,

 

Geraint

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Here’s a comparison between different manufacturers. I’ve included dimensions @Middlepeak

As Jonathon quite rightly points out, the Osborns Models type is the only one that can be manipulated to match a gradient or uneven ground. Jarvis’ resin stone has the most accurate cross section but the moulding is terrible and stones are over sized. Their flexible wall is foam with grey scatter glued on (badly) and doesn’t look good at all. Bachmann’s offering isn’t right for dry stone wall either - it’s all a bit too neat and regular. 
 

4EA0EA39-F535-45F6-81E4-862174A1D898.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
13 hours ago, Middlepeak said:

Jay,

 

Can you provide some dimensions please? Height, length of each piece, plus some idea of cross section. Also it would be interesting to see how easy or difficult it is to disguise the joints. Is it pliable?

 

Regards,

 

Geraint

It’s not pliable unfortunately. Photos below may give some idea how cleanly they can be joined. The cross section only has a slight taper towards the cap stones. 

0E399825-49C4-40FA-B2EC-67F41CB35476.jpeg

E1D5DB46-D408-4000-801D-7EADEB80813D.jpeg

  • Informative/Useful 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

First attempt at a wagon kit- Cambrian Models RCH 1923 5 plank open. Fitted with Smiths 3 link couplings and Dapol wheels, yet to receive buffers. There was a lot of extraneous plastic around the mouldings and I wonder if this is normal? I have another to build and I’m considering veering away from the instructions and building the body separately instead of around the under frame to achieve better joins on the corners. 

58E7D747-4C00-4224-8DFA-55690BBD9319.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like the floor and/or solebars were a little too long? I too would build the body first - sides and ends then file the floor to fit and then build the chassis on it upside down. Looks good though - nothing a tiny smear of filler won't sort out.

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Barclay said:

It looks like the floor and/or solebars were a little too long? I too would build the body first - sides and ends then file the floor to fit and then build the chassis on it upside down. Looks good though - nothing a tiny smear of filler won't sort out.

The solebars are too long and the floor is too small. After a search on here it seems @Rowsley17D Jonathon had the same issue with this kit plus he had added ‘dimples’ on the corner ironwork. 
I’m also thinking the Dapol wheels are maybe a bit too chunky and need changing. 
 

Jay

 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, JustinDean said:

The solebars are too long and the floor is too small. After a search on here it seems @Rowsley17D Jonathon had the same issue with this kit plus he had added ‘dimples’ on the corner ironwork. 
I’m also thinking the Dapol wheels are maybe a bit too chunky and need changing. 
 

Jay

 

Gibson are very nice.

  • Agree 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, JustinDean said:

The solebars are too long and the floor is too small.

 

Par for the course with most Cambrian kits, I'm afraid.  Unco-operative corners and bump-stops that don't line up with axleboxes are also regular problems.

Edited by mike morley
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Barclay said:

nothing a tiny smear of filler won't sort out.

I agree.  A 'rounded' corner is more realistic anyway as the real ones were bent out of one piece of metal.

It's also worth checking if the small rebate at the bottom ends of the side is deep enough to enable the tops of the sides and ends to line up.  

 

I have found the Cambrian kits to be excellent but they do need just a small amount of 'fitting'.  

Rodney

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the input chaps. I’m definitely going to approach the next Cambrian kit slightly differently. Also I have some Gibson wheels on order - definitely a visual improvement on the Dapol ones. 
 

Jay

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I built the second Cambrian kits 1923RCH open today but this time constructed the body and chassis independently. It went together so much better doing it this way, although the photo reveals I need to straighten that brake lever and hanger!

 

Jay

A5A97764-7656-451B-8493-A90F5E7FB04F.jpeg

Edited by JustinDean
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
25 minutes ago, Gareth-Ingram said:

Wonderful project! Could be a ‘lifetime’ layout.

hope you will be offering bed & breakfast and an operating session when this is finished, you can put me on the guest list!!!

Thanks Gareth. 
The whole project is definitely taking longer than I thought but that’s fine; it’s pretty much the only relaxing thing I do. I’m currently waiting to take on an 18th century stable building down at Wirksworth Station which will become a home for this, along with other projects, as my cottage really is too small for the layout fully set up. 
 

Jay

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Another 1923 RCH open but this time from the Parkside Kit of the steel floored version. This one comes supplied with Romford wheels and all round has crisper mouldings, less flash and generally goes together better than the Cambrian kit. Really enjoyable to build!

 

Jay

 

9CBB0EB7-612A-4367-8F8D-D82E7C3E18F5.jpeg

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Today I officially start work on the Cromford & High Peak Railway, in 4mm scale!

Alan / Modelu 3D scanned me today at the O gauge event hosted at Highley on the Severn Valley Railway. 
Looking forward to receiving mini me in two weeks. 

E20FF5B1-67BD-4297-A70D-3C38AF105C41.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Round of applause 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
18 minutes ago, Middlepeak said:

There's great concentration in that shot, and not just from Alan!

 

Looks like you will be making it down to Friden - assuming the track gang keep working! Let me know when you arrive.

 

All the best,

 

G


Thanks Geraint- it took a few moments to figure out what the pose should be. Settled on hand in pocket and look in the distance. I’d planned just to get my partner scanned but she twisted my arm to have a go too. 
 

Jay

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 21/08/2021 at 12:36, JustinDean said:

It’s not pliable unfortunately

Just wondering, have you tried dipping a piece in very hot (or even boiling) water and seeing if it's pliable once removed?

 

John F (Re6/6) has bought some of the EBay product (certainly looks like the one you illustrated and he also bought his on EBay) and has found that it's slightly 'bendable'.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
17 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

Just wondering, have you tried dipping a piece in very hot (or even boiling) water and seeing if it's pliable once removed?

 

John F (Re6/6) has bought some of the EBay product (certainly looks like the one you illustrated and he also bought his on EBay) and has found that it's slightly 'bendable'.

 


I’m up for giving it a go - I’ve got tonnes of the stuff so if one breaks not a problem. 
I’ll have a go tomorrow and report back with the results!

 

Cheers

Jay

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...