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darren01

Mounting point motors headache free

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Hi All

Here’s a little tip for you, when mounting point motors, Seep or Peco on the mounting plate.

So you spend a while getting the point motor all screwed in, and then you find that it is out by a small amount.

So then you have to undo all the screws make new holes and realign it again, well here a way of doing it without the headache.

Get some Velcro and put it on the mounting plate and then put some under where your point motor will be.

This way you can readjust the point motor as many times as you like, and if the point motor dies on you, quick unsolder and you can just pop a new one in.

All the best

Darren

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As an alternative I've found that Seeps can be adjusted by bending the actuator shaft.

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The method I use for setting Peco point motors in position is by useing spare SMP copper clad sleepers. Place one each side between each stock, and switch rail,where they touch, that way the point/switch is set central. Then place two each side of the 'drive pin', centralising it between the solenoids. Then just install, works perfect every time.

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The method I use for setting Peco point motors in position is by useing spare SMP copper clad sleepers. Place one each side between each stock, and switch rail,where they touch, that way the point/switch is set central. Then place two each side of the 'drive pin', centralising it between the solenoids. Then just install, works perfect every time.

 

There was an excellent article about fitting point motors using a wooden clothes peg in a recent edition of Model Rail - I think it was the March 2010 issue.

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There was an excellent article about fitting point motors using a wooden clothes peg in a recent edition of Model Rail - I think it was the March 2010 issue.

 

 

T'was I,

 

Here it is, hope it helps.

 

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Doug

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Just working on fitting my first Seep point motors and have fettled up the peg device.

The next question is about where people prefer to have the pin coming through the tie bar.

I've seen some advice to drill a hole through the middle of the Peco tie bar and then not use the hole at the end.

What do people think.

I'm using Peco n finescale points.

Also is the spring in the points now redundant, it looks as though the point motor throw is much greater than the point's. Does this matter?

 

Any ideas gratefully received.

Keith

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I've always used one of the holes in the end of the tiebar for Seeps on Peco N gauge track. Can't see any reason to drill a hole somewhere else, unless there is something underneath that stops the motor being used in either of the holes provided.

 

The length of the throw doesn't matter, as long as the motor is centred on the point by one of the methods described above. This is essential to ensure that the on-board switch operates reliably.

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@IOSkeith, When using a solenoid motor don't remove the spring, as this keeps pressure on the point blades and keeps them in contact with the stock rails. If you remove the spring the point blades could move to a nuetral position. Try moving a seep motor by hand, it will move with very little resistance and this won't keep your points set to the correct route.

 

If you are using a slow action motor, such as a Tortoise, Cobalt or TT300, these motors either take allot of force to move or will maintain a small pressure between the point blade and the stock rail while idle. You can remove the spring in the point when using these as it is not needed.

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