Relative merits of different track component brands

[Clearwater]

Hi

 

As I'm researching what I may want to build and am realising that if I want something bespoke, I may need to build my own track/points, I was wondering what the views were on the different brands/makes of track components.  Are there obvious pitfalls for the novice to be aware of?  What should I be looking for?  Is one type notably easier to build than another?  All views welcome!

 

Many thanks

David

[Lacathedrale]

I personally find that laying track directly to PCB is the most 'fun' - it's all about smooth lines and alignment an very forgiving. This is a pretty standard method back in the day in 4mm/ft, and still fairly current in 2mmFS.

 

I do not find much pleasure in plastic construction, but I do see the utility of plastic chairs/etc. so I have been buying limewood strip in 3/4mm x 1.5mm profiles - you can get 20m for the price of a single turnout. Mantua Models provide it, and I think it looks great.

 

With regard to sourcing items - C&L generally are fairly highly regarded but I've had trouble in the past with communication/postage/packing.

Edited May 1, 2020 by Lacathedrale

[jim.snowdon]

It would be helpful if we knew what scale is involved.

 

Jim

[Clearwater]

12 hours ago, jim.snowdon said:

It would be helpful if we knew what scale is involved.

 

Jim

4mm prob OO though contemplating EM.

[Lacathedrale]

For your first one, maybe get one of the 'turnout in a bag' kits from C&L/etc. so you know what all the bits are and what things should roughly look like before you tackle it for yourself? That's by no means mandatory but you'll have everything you need and if you decide not to proceed then you won't have meters of rail/sleepers/etc. sitting around.

[Mark Forrest]

The way I see it, you have to do the hard part (filing blades and assembling the common crossing) regardless of whether you're using copperclad, ply and rivet, ply and plastic chairs or entirely plastic.

 

Copperclad is undoubtedly quicker, but for me I would rather spend a little more time for the added chair detail.  Ply or plastic sleepers/timbers is a matter of personal preference.  In my experience ply allows you to adjust the position of chairs slightly more easily than plastic.

 

Working in P4 I default to using Exactoscale track components wherever possible.  If you're considering EM, I'd recommend joining EMGS which gets you access to their stores.

[jim.snowdon]

Having been a 7mm scale modeller for at least the last twenty years, I can't comment on C&L's smaller products, but the 7mm ones are good. What you have got, as a halfway house between pcb sleepering and moulded chairs is the Brooksmith rivet & ply method that (I presume) the EM gauge society still support. That has the flexibility of pcb construction but more of the appearance (in 4mm scale) of chaired track when viewed at normal distances. (I used to model in EM before I changed scales and had two exhibition layouts).

 

Jim

[hayfield]

I find the easiest and perhaps the most robust method is to use plastic timbers and chairs, the most challenging ro build is the ply and rivet method.

 

Thin plastic timbers have a tendency to curl as the solvent dries, therefore would need to be stuck fast to a solid surface, the thicker timbers are fine

 

I prefer the Exactoscale timber base, there are far more timbers per packet than the C&L product plus the longer timbers are much longer which is better for building formations

 

Exactoscale's range of chairs is much better especially the special chairs not only look better but work functionally, until recently the quality of Exactoscale standard chairs was better, C&L have now got a new standard sprue for 2 bolt chairs which includes bridge and J chairs plus fishplates, a 3 bolt chair will be available soon

 

HiNi rail from C&L

 

In short I would recommend Timbers and special chairs from Exactoscale, rail and the new standard chairs from C&L

[hayfield]

If making several turnouts and crossings investing in crossing and switch filling jigs from the EM or Scalefour societies

 

Also if concerned about building common and obtuse crossings, Copper clad timbers can be used in strategic places (use 0.5 mm risers between rail and timber) and use chairs cosmetically after

[Clearwater]

Thanks for the advice.  I had been thinking of buying one of the kits as a trial.  If I understand correctly, you get pretty much everything you need in the bag?

 

David

[Clearwater]

Also, are there any good books on trackbuilding?  I’m aware of the Right Track DVD which I may try and get if anywhere has it!

 

David

[hayfield]

13 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

Thanks for the advice.  I had been thinking of buying one of the kits as a trial.  If I understand correctly, you get pretty much everything you need in the bag?

 

David

 

 

Most of us started track building with kits, though in my early days it was SMP which was (and still is) mostly copperclad

 

The all singing and dancing C&L kits are very good, do though ask for 00 gauge crossings and track gauges (in the past they only had 1mm flangeways), whilst some think they are expensive a lot of work has been put into making the common crossings and switch rails and might be the difference between success and failure on a first attempt.

[Clearwater]

Thanks @hayfield much appreciated.  Sounds like c&l is the place to start.  I’ve started fiddling with templot and am getting to grips with that.  Once you get it’s language, it’s fairly intuitive albeit the interface is different to say Microsoft PowerPoint that I’m all too familiar with...  keen to build my confidence before trying something more extravagant although the plan I’m trying to design would only require five or so turnouts and a crossing.

 

David

[hayfield]

The cost of building a turnout in raw components is about £15, when you resort to buy ready built components the costs soar

 

Templot now is very easy to use for basic track building templates, not much harder to build track plans

 

Forgot to say order thick timbers

[Mark Forrest]

50 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

Also, are there any good books on trackbuilding?  I’m aware of the Right Track DVD which I may try and get if anywhere has it!

 

David

I would recommend Iain Rice's "Building Fine scale Track" (Wild Swan).  Covers everything you need to know to get you started.

[brossard]

I would add Trax 2:

 

 

Comes with a CD containing track planning software.  I use it to make turnout templates.

 

I have made a lot of 7mm turnouts using laser cut ply timbers.

 

John

[polybear]

On 02/05/2020 at 09:30, hayfield said:

I find the easiest and perhaps the most robust method is to use plastic timbers and chairs, the most challenging ro build is the ply and rivet method.

 

Thin plastic timbers have a tendency to curl as the solvent dries, therefore would need to be stuck fast to a solid surface, the thicker timbers are fine

 

I prefer the Exactoscale timber base, there are far more timbers per packet than the C&L product plus the longer timbers are much longer which is better for building formations

 

Exactoscale's range of chairs is much better especially the special chairs not only look better but work functionally, until recently the quality of Exactoscale standard chairs was better, C&L have now got a new standard sprue for 2 bolt chairs which includes bridge and J chairs plus fishplates, a 3 bolt chair will be available soon

 

HiNi rail from C&L

 

In short I would recommend Timbers and special chairs from Exactoscale, rail and the new standard chairs from C&L

 

Also, Locos & stock with deeper wheel flanges (e.g. older models, or Lima)  tend to strike C&L chairs - however Exactoscale chairs are much better in this respect.  Not sure if this issue has been resolved with the later C&L chairs (are the later chairs "across the range", or only certain chairs in the range?).

[hayfield]

The new range of chaira is on the )) flexi track, and 4 mm 2 bolt chairs, 3 bolt chairs will follow soon

[Dominion]

I would also suggest reading John's (Hayfield's) thread.

I have found it full of practical how to information.

 

[down the sdjr]

As a newbie to all this i would reccomend the CL point in a bag kit. Very good instructions are included about 10 pages. I have started a EM gauge layout and since beginning that i am considering re-building some of my 00 gauge layout to hand built points, etc. Plus Hayfields thread above is supurb.

Paul.

[hayfield]

C&L have just released new chairs for both 2 and 3 bolt chairs, these packs are a bit more expensive as you get either 350 components or 700.

 

As well as 10 standard chairs per sprue you also get 2 x L1 bridge chairs, 2 x J1 Joint (large) chairs and 2 H shaped fishplates

 

The J chairs have never been available in 4 mm plastic, neither has the 2 bolt bridge and J chairs

 

The 2 bolt chairs come with 2 standard fishplates, the 3 bolt chairs come with one standard fishplate and one reinforced one

 

These fishplates will be available as separate items

[down the sdjr]

Hi everyone,

 

Can anyone point me in a good direction for 00/EM gauge jigs for point building, Vs and switch blade filing etc?

I am a member of the EMGS but being a newbie to all this i dont want to buy the wrong items. I also notice C&L make common crossings for £21.50 if i am unable to make them myself. The layout plan i want to make is 6 points on a slight curve (Blandford Forum northern end) so buying the Vs might be a good option for a beginner.

 

@hayfield I have been researching the C&L chairs that are now on sale and getting to grips with Templot.

 

Paul.

 

[hayfield]

Paul

 

The EMGS only do 2 filing jigs

 

1/  The Vee filing jig, which has 1-5, 1-6, 1-7 & 1-8 crossing angles  (The Scalefour Society does a second with 1- 9, 10, 11 & 12 crossing angles

 

2/  Switch rail filing jig, which has A, B, C & D switch sizes

 

When I bought mine I think they were in the mid £30's, have a feeling one may have gone up to £40 ish

 

The Vee filing jig will not assist making a common crossing, its for filing the angles accurately.

 

Building common crossings is a construction process which requires the modeler learning a bit of a knack  (for the want of a better word)

 

Or if you use plastic timbers you could build the Vee's and let the plastic chairs work functionally in holding both the Vee and wing rails in place

[down the sdjr]

Thank you @hayfield very informative as usual. I think i will stick with the kits for now, did some costing sums and for the amount i need the jigs are 1/3 the cost before i begin. Maybe later if i get the bug.

Thanks again.

[Tim Dubya]

On 24/06/2020 at 14:53, hayfield said:

When I bought mine I think they were in the mid £30's, have a feeling one may have gone up to £40 ish...

 

Latest EMGS / Scalefour prices (+ membership and worth every penny of it).

 

https://www.emgs.org/

 

https://www.scalefour.org/