Jump to content
 

Adding rivet detail to white metal


Recommended Posts

I did search but could find an answer, so my question is: "has anyone recommendations for adding rivet detail to white metal castings?".

 

I'm rebuilding a very shabby K's SR Q1 kit and the loco body is devoid of any rivet detail.

 

My only thought was to accept the compromise of using a pin punch and thus having them in the 'negative'.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 minute ago, 97xx said:

My only thought was to accept the compromise of using a pin punch and thus having them in the 'negative'.

Don't do that!

 

Try Archers transfer rivets instead - https://www.archertransfers.com/ - available from UK suppliers as well.

 

More info on this thread - 

 

 

  • Agree 4
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi,

Just a thought. The Q1's were sheeted with very thin material which was attached to a framework. Rather than riveted the sheets were bolted to the framework which pulled the sheeting in around the bolt head. This arrangement resulted in a fixing that was far less prominant than a rivet.

For my Little Engines Q1 (and other white metal kits) I marked out the sheeting joints using a scriber and then used the scriber to indent the white metal for each bolt head. It is not ideal but looks fairly prototypical.

I have also used the scriber to indent the white metal creating a raised, but hollow "rivet" head. I have then filled in the hollow rivet head with a filler (Green Stuff or similar). This is quite tricky but works with larger rivet/bolt heads.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I’d second Cpt Kernow’s recommendation of the Archers transfers.  Absolutely fantastic product.

 

i used it to add missing river detail on my Bird (bought 2nd hand as a built scratch build from brass that I was upgrading and detailing).  After a coat of etch primer I added the rivets before giving it another coat of primer to ensure they were sealed in.  They can be applied as a line of equally spaced rivets rather than having to do one at a time (which certainly makes things easier)1ED8EB0B-F0E8-48E4-AE90-BE273D6ADC2D.jpeg.95d6b8423896e9f8ea9244e09245b37b.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all.

 

It does seem that the vertical were generally rivets, but the horizontal as pointed out by Richard B were in fact slightly sunken bolts.

 

Will look out the Archer transfers, but looks like I am at least half OK with careful and gentle punching for some.

 

Great forum, so very pleased to be on board. Beats a lot of forums for sure.

image.jpeg

Edited by 97xx
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

As has been said many times before, ugly but effective brutes!

 

Whilst one wants to be as accurate to prototype as possible, I don't think your Q1 would suffer from a scriber approach!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...