"Wobby" Runners / buying used

[GreenDiesel]

I read once on this forum about how some folks have scored good deals by buying either non-runners or locos with 1-2 problems from places such as Hattons or Rails.  Often, these locos can be bought for good prices and just need a simple fix.

 

Well,  I have  my eyes on 1-2 Ivatt Class 2 (# 31-450A-PO17) "wobby runner" locos by Bachmann. The prices for these seem good but I thought I'd check it anyone has had previous problems with this type of loco, i.e. is the loose wheels/wobbly runner issue an ongoing or difficult-to-repair problem?  Just checking in advance.

Thanks, Rob

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

The identified item has the now obsolete 'split chassis' mechanism in which the wheelsets are a construction of metal wheel plus stub axle castings, held together by a plastic insulating muff, which is apt to fail. Repairs can be performed, some spares are available; but in my opinion it is a short life construction and best avoided, as this is far from the only weakness.

[GreenDiesel]

4 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

The identified item has the now obsolete 'split chassis' mechanism in which the wheelsets are a construction of metal wheel plus stub axle castings, held together by a plastic insulating muff, which is apt to fail. Repairs can be performed, some spares are available; but in my opinion it is a short life construction and best avoided, as this is far from the only weakness.

Thanks, sounds like it might be more trouble than it's worth.  I'd like to get an Ivatt Class 2 tank at some point. Are there any newer or better options out there?

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Not yet is the short answer. Blah, blah, drivel...

 

ALL WRONG! THERE IS NOW A 'CURRENT MECHANISM' VERSION, TOTALLY MISSED THAT.

Edited May 3, 2020 by 34theletterbetweenB&D
to correct misinformation

[cypherman]

Hi all,

The problem is not too bad as long as you know what is wrong. With the early split chassis Bachmann engines the wheels have plastic inserts. They expand over time making the wheels warp. The easy solution is to just cut out the plastic inserts from the wheels. The glue back the balance weight from the insert back on to the wheels The wheels I have found can be straightened with a little judicial pressure. I have done this with 5x4mts. but not the 2mt's. Which I still have to check. Yes there is a slight lack of depth in the wheels view, but it does not appear to alter it's performance. When you paint the wheels that lack of depth is reduced. So they pass the squint test. As for the axels breaking up. I have never had a problem with this. Unlike the mainline engine chassis they were based on. As for new inserts I would not hold your breath about finding any. Plus they are a real pain to refit. Do not worry about the quartering as the wheels have square pins to go into the axels and can only go in a limited number of ways.

Edited May 2, 2020 by cypherman

[DCB]

I wouldn't touch a Bachmann OO chassis unless I could see the end of the driving axles. Split axle locos have a nicer wheel with a solid centre.  They are OK when new but my record is 20 minutes from new in the packaging to a driving wheel falling off.

Problems include failing to pick up current through the wheel hubs, cured on some by extra pick ups between the chassis halves and wheel backs but even then not all locos respond and at speed Our B1 still runs just as badly as any  high mileage B1 restricted to goods work purloined to work a Manchester - Marylebone express.

Our Bachmann  Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0 runs really nicely but its not split chassis as you can see the axle ends, and I'm 90% sure our 2MT 2-6-2T chassis has the same wheels, I can't remember not having them so they must be 15/20 years old. 

Which is the problem because some of this stock sold as "New" is 20 years old or more.  

As I said the "Cambrian Coast Express" double set bought new probably 2018 , must have been 15-20 years old and the Mogul threw a driving wheel while being run in gently with a 2 coach train, Ok I stuck it back in but its never entered regular service, a 43XX with a Mainline body on a Triang chassis with a good old XO4 is more powerful and relentlessly reliable.

Later ones are better but basically as a general rule if Peters spares don't have stock you can't get spares.  Its why people put Bachmann bodies on Comet chassis and I put them on heavily modified Hornby,  Triang or even K's chassis. 

[Robin Verth]

I would once buy poor/non runners from Hattons, Rails etc, I avoided the older split chassis models, at a Swapmeet/Exhibition I picked up a Bachmann split chassis motor less panniers tank, one of my Ivatt 2MT tanks had one of the axles fail, the pannier tank donated one of its plastic axles it fitted perfectly, the plain axles may be same part used in a number of  locos, my 2MT was one of those engines that went onto the layout and was never taken off and used every session.

When my existing 2MT's fail I will replace them with the revised chassis models.

[hallmodelspares]

With hatttons and some similar watch out some engines. A bad one is the ex airfix 2-6-2 if it says damage to valve gear/ cylinder block leave well alone, as those parts are difficult unless you have another to cobble a runner from. Airfix/Dapol & Hornby non can motored county/castle class steer clear if they have damage to the motion cylinder block. They are impossible to find as a part. Also avoid any southern Bob/west country or merchant navy as these the valve gear is rare and if damaged really has a knock on its value and being able to make any use of them. Aim for a non runner or poor runner with none of the above issues and really look at the price too as some are not 'bargains'

Edited May 3, 2020 by hallmodelspares
missed a bit

[kandc_au]

3 hours ago, hallmodelspares said:

With hatttons and some similar watch out some engines. A bad one is the ex airfix 2-6-2 if it says damage to valve gear/ cylinder block leave well alone, as those parts are difficult unless you have another to cobble a runner from. Airfix/Dapol & Hornby non can motored county/castle class steer clear if they have damage to the motion cylinder block. They are impossible to find as a part. Also avoid any southern Bob/west country or merchant navy as these the valve gear is rare and if damaged really has a knock on its value and being able to make any use of them. Aim for a non runner or poor runner with none of the above issues and really look at the price too as some are not 'bargains'

Are the motion cylinder blocks that are available as brass spares suitable for any of these repairs??
Khris

[Il Grifone]

Non/bad runners are always a gamble. Spares, if available,* are often expensive. The sale price should reflect this!

 

* The days are long gone when (Tri-ang (shows how long) especially) spares were available over the counter.

[Andy W]

Surprised that nobody has mentioned that Bachmann has released several Ivatt 2MT 2-6-2T versions with a modern, conventional chassis, but the original body. There was a lot of criticism here from those who thought they should have retooled the body at the same time they retooled the chassis, but nobody has criticised the chassis itself. If the body on the split chassis version suits the standards you're modelling to, then buying one of the conventional chassis versions will probably prove cheaper than buying a defective split chassis one plus the parts needed to make it runnable. There's also the advantage that the modern version is DCC ready or DCC fitted out of the box, whereas it is quite a faff to convert the split chassis version to DCC, (though it is doable, and I've done it).

Look for models in the product number series beginning 3144x, so 31440, 31441 etc.

[hallmodelspares]

Khris no at the there is no alternative method other than a complete rebuild with a different chassis design/maker. Maybe a commercial opportunity as it has been posted elsewhere on here people needing a few sets for rebuilt m/n's

[hallmodelspares]

Triang spares in that way over the counter are a thing of the past but if you know where to look and ask most spares are around to fix them and often not too much to buy a spare loco for bits etc