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Class 33s (n gauge) in shops


fezza
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Some new Cromptons have recently hit the shops, although oddly there seem to be very few in the shipment with some shops selling out also immediately.  They are not mentioned on the Dapol website. So if you want one, probably best to act quickly....

 

I've ordered a BR blue one - there are also some nice new ones in green, green FYE and NSE too - if you can find them.

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5 hours ago, fezza said:

Some new Cromptons have recently hit the shops, although oddly there seem to be very few in the shipment with some shops selling out also immediately.  They are not mentioned on the Dapol website. So if you want one, probably best to act quickly....

 

Mentioned on their Facebook page last week, Class 26 also arrived and shipped out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my 33020 today.

A few differences from previous release of 33030.

 

33020 is much quieter than 33030.

OLE flashes now provided on front end. Also on one side by engine room door but not the other side.

There is no on/off switch anymore on the underside of the battery box.

The tail lights show red just above the buffers but the roller blind does not show red. On 33030 the buffer tail lights do not light at all. The roller blind just flickers white - no change which ever way the on/off switch is set!

The buffer beam of 33020 appears to have the holes for fitting the 33/1 buffer plate as does 33030. I've never been able to fit the plate on the 33/1. maybe a bit of chassis swapping will do the trick. Need to investigate more.

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Having already got a BR Blue and Dutch version from the previous run, I do fancy 33008 and 33114.

 

I have been looking at photos of 33008 in service, and whilst it wore several variations of BR Green livery, I cannot find any photos of it in Green SYP livery with the number positioning and font combination shown on the model. The model depicts 33008 numbering at both ends each side, in TOPS font.

 

Before it received its high-intensity headlights, it wore 33008 numbering at one end each side, but in the pre-TOPS sans-serif font.

 

Around the time it received its high-intensity headlights, it received D6508 numbering at both ends in TOPS font, plus small '008' in black on the yellow ends.

 

Unless anyone can put me right, it looks like a renumbering job.

Edited by 47475
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To add to the above, I have since learned that it wore 'Dutch' livery for a couple of years before a fresh repaint back into SYP green again. It had it's high-intensity headlights by then and that is when it had the TOPS-style D6508 applied to each end.

 

I still guess the model is incorrect, though.

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So without checking pics I believe the Dapol model doesn't have the headlamp and other 90s mods, so you are correct when you say the font should be in the sans-serif pre-tops style so yes to a renumber for accuracy. 

 

In total 008 carried 5 variations of its green livery, 4 versions between 86 and 89ish, each one a modification of the previous version, then it carried departmental grey, dutch and then around 92 it got version 5 of green but by then it would have 90s mods such as headlamp, the small radio roof pods on the cab roofs etc. When it was released from Eastleigh in 1992 in green the white waistband actually had a very thin red pinstripe underneath it, but i'm sure thus was later removed. 

 

Steve

 

Edit: Just re-checked the images of the model and apart from the position and incorrect font of the numbers, the model is accurate for the period Oct 87 - Mar 90.

 

Another edit: Images also show the fibre glass engine room covers painted when the loco emerged from Eastleigh in June 86 but I'm not sure if they are black or green. This is not present on the model. 

Edited by steve1023
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  • 2 weeks later...

My model of 33008 arrived on Friday and apart from the number issue it’s very nice. I don’t think I’ve got the patience to renumber it so I’ll put up with it.

 I spent yesterday evening making up some new bufferbeam pipes for it and altering the front bogie and snowploughs to get rid of the underbite that you get if you fit them as standard. :biggrin_mini2:


So from this:

FFD19CED-D182-48E5-976D-07E3EF69D1C3.jpeg.f142812290af291627451965003da945.jpeg
 

To this basically:

831A6713-8A95-41FE-AC5C-E13EC9410C32.jpeg.3436b12f25094ab35026bdf9b849b4ce.jpeg

3DD1929E-5261-478A-8185-72EA64058C16.jpeg.e73560d937a45f11de6bc4cac512a746.jpeg
B39E6CE0-180C-4360-A2CD-3911C6B51DDA.jpeg.9f48cd7902c0c7e527e60c056076fe60.jpeg

Edited by Cowley 47521
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  • 1 month later...

Is anybody able to post a picture of the new '2nd Generation' Next18 Class 33 chassis please, from above and from side-on?
I am looking at putting sound in to one, and I have a 6-Pin chassis, which looks fairly straight forward; plug chip in, remove lighting unit from one end of body, put speaker in cab space, body back on, job done (he says...) - similar to a Farish 25, near enough.
However, I haven't yet seen what these new Next18 chasis are like. Has there been any alterations to the chassis-block outside of the electrics at all, i.e. room for a speaker etc, or has the 6-Pin PCB simply been swapped over so that it's now a Next18 socket?

Thanks

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The chassis block is the same as the 6 pin version but the switch to turn the tail lights off is not in the fuel tank anymore

as the new next 18 pcb is made to have switchable tail lights operating from the decoder 

it seems that it designed for a zimo type decoder ,as the lighting arrangement  didn’t work on the loksound v5 decoder 

 

 

Edited by Blvrace
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  • 7 months later...

Hi Cowley 47521

I was admiring your pictures of Eastleigh above. How did you fix the snow ploughs on? Appreciate you have different couplings and I'd be keeping the standard ones - but is it just a question of separating the side ploughs from the middle section and fixing them to the side of the NEM pocket or is there more to it? I suppose if it was that easy Dapol would have done it for us!

 

I'm keen to fit them to my model as I always remember it with ploughs on front and back. But I don't want to sacrifice the couplings fitting how Dapol suggest. It would be pretty limited running light engine everywhere!

Thanks

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On 16/03/2021 at 19:03, Reddz said:

Hi Cowley 47521

I was admiring your pictures of Eastleigh above. How did you fix the snow ploughs on? Appreciate you have different couplings and I'd be keeping the standard ones - but is it just a question of separating the side ploughs from the middle section and fixing them to the side of the NEM pocket or is there more to it? I suppose if it was that easy Dapol would have done it for us!

 

I'm keen to fit them to my model as I always remember it with ploughs on front and back. But I don't want to sacrifice the couplings fitting how Dapol suggest. It would be pretty limited running light engine everywhere!

Thanks


Hi Reddz.

 

I thought the easiest thing to do would be to take a picture of it but I didn’t get home until quite late even though I read this earlier...

Now please bear in mind two things, one being that there are people on here that would probably do a far better job than me and zoomed in it looks quite harsh. The second thing being that I don’t usually let wheels get that fluffy and this loco is now booked in for an F (for fluff) exam!

 

On fitting the original ploughs there was quite a major underbite, so I actually held my nerve, removed the bogie and cut the coupling socket right back so that it was level with the front of the bogie frame:

 

4775C772-7B84-49CA-8375-4CEFB0D7F80E.jpeg.3d381327906c861b22abab89514227a2.jpeg
 

I then very carefully cut off the centre section of the ploughs and filed the stretcher bar that holds it all together smooth and painted it black, I also filed the tops (mainly) and the bottoms of the remaining outer plough sections down until they looked about right to my eyes (obviously SR ones were smaller than standard).

I made my own pipes out of fine wire because the ones supplied were not only very fiddly but also didn’t give enough clearance so with my own but fitted into the existing holes I was able to direct them slightly forward and then down.

I think I did use the Dapol coupling that was supplied though.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Nick

 

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On 18/03/2021 at 19:41, Reddz said:

Thanks for the reply Nick and the photo - that really helps.

 

Now it's just a question of whether I'm brave enough to have a go!

Cheers 

Reddz


Happy to help. It does take a bit of nerve to take a knife or a saw to something brand new, but I’d already cut the front coupling off another Dapol 33 so I’d already had a bit of practice. Plus it’s really easy to remove the bogies on these which helps a lot.

Good luck if you decide to do it.

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