Tender to Loco Couplings

[Cm0614]

I have a beautiful Modified Hall Model from Bachmann however I can barely use it because of how difficult it is to couple the locomotive to the tender. It is a small hole to connect to a small pole under the tender. Any ideas on how to permanently couple this kind of engine to its tender? Thanks 

[Right Away]

The drawbar (coupling) does tend to flop about when trying to couple the tender on these engines, but a permanent fixture is hardly necessary.

 

Invert both loco and tender on a soft surface, with a piece of foam block along each side to prevent them rolling onto their sides (unless you have a servicing cradle).

Offer the tender up to the engine, and with tweezers, guide the drawbar through the slot in the front of the tender frame until the hole aligns with the post on the tender.

 

 

 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

If you want a permanent connection, if you are happy with the provided spacing, drill a small hole into the tender 'peg' and with the drawbar in place glue in a small headed drawing pin to retain. Don't let it 'clamp' the drawbar in any way, it must be free on the peg to pivot and move up and down a little.

 

If you might prefer a different spacing from  that which Bachmann provide as choices, a simple method is a self tapper that is a nice sliding fit in the drawbar hole. Cut off the 'peg', drill hole for self tapper, and secure. You may find that there is a steel ballast weight above the location where you wish the self tapper to go: release the securing screw at that end of the ballast weight to allow the self tapper in.

[BR60103]

I took a piece of insulation (from house wire) that was about the right size and pushed it on the peg after the drawbar. I found that it was a reasonably tight fit on the locos I chose. It will come off easily if they need to be separated.

There seem to be as many, if not more, loco-to-tender couplings as car-to-car couplings.

 

[DCB]

It's all a bit inaccessible with axles and everything in the way. I must admit our modified Hall is a bit of a sod when it has to be taken off the rails and put back on again but it only needs doing every six months or so.  My Triang Halls have a fixed short draw bar pivoted under the cab and above the front tender axle for about 2 or 3mm gap which is fine on 2nd radius curves., my Father in Law's Halls have the Triang coupling shortened so the tender attaches under the loco for 2 or 3mm gap which approximates to the Bachmann close spacing so I would suggest popping out the front axle and brake gear and snapping off the close peg and replacing it with a small self tapping screw with a small blob of super glue to stop it wriggling loose.  If necessary ease out the drawbar hole with a needle file or similar.

Modern RTR does not work well with layouts where you need to physically lift locos and stock, Handrail knobs and steps tend to go AWOL I like to leave them on the track, maybe swap them from layout to display cabinet every now and again but generally our locos stay on the rails for six months plus at a time.

 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

9 hours ago, BR60103 said:

...There seem to be as many, if not more, loco-to-tender couplings as car-to-car couplings.

And I find it necessary to fiddle with most to obtain scale spacing. But one star example is now demonstrated, which would render this  unnecessary.

 

Bachmann's design of a  loco drawbar in the correct location, engaging on a longer pin mounted on a screw locked slide under the tender is the business for optimum appearance - here's the one coupling which can be in the right location on RTR OO, so why not have it so? - and so simple. Engage, screw lock slide, done. Just copy that guys. More than adequate for the longest UK loco designs.

 

(I hope the 'return of the camming link' has as short a run as it did first time out in OO...) 

Edited May 8, 2020 by 34theletterbetweenB&D