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Julia

New from Scalescenes: Canal Wharf Boxfile

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Today Scalescenes announced a new boxfile layout. 

 

Looks really cute, seems to be designed with 009 in mind rather than just 00. 

 

https://scalescenes.com/product/ly02-canal-wharf-boxfile-layout/

 

Only thought I have is that it seems to be the same orientation in terms of outside box fiddle yard stuffs, meaning you couldn't easily set this back to back with the original boxfile layout. 

 

Anyone tempted to build it? 

 

J

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1 hour ago, Julia said:

 

Only thought I have is that it seems to be the same orientation in terms of outside box fiddle yard stuffs, meaning you couldn't easily set this back to back with the original boxfile layout. 

 

J

 

Apparently - although it's defeated me in the past - you can rescale and flip the orientation. This would allow the first boxfile layout they did - the factory yard - to back onto the canal one if one is flipped.

 

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That looks really nice, but can anyone explain the function of the two green doors above the track please?

Cheers

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10 minutes ago, PenrithBeacon said:

That looks really nice, but can anyone explain the function of the two green doors above the track please?

Cheers

 

Gravity. It's so you can hoist up goods straight to the floor they need to goto. Typically a brewery,or maltings like this would be designed so that stuff follows gravity, hoist the inputs to the top, and they go down via all the processes, and out the bottom as the finished item. There should really be a joist coming out above the top door with a hook on it that you can attach a block and tackle to. 

 

J

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It does say that there are options for the fiddle yard to be to the left or the right!  Worth it for the barge alone, but even if you don't build the box file there are lots of elements that can be used.  Purchased and downloaded!

 

Steve S

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If I can manage to reverse the orientation it'll make a fabulous scenic block from the RH end of my shunting plank - although to match up with my SMS baseboard the building over the railway will need to be a smidge less deep but surely that's not a problem (ha ha ha!) 

 

Hmmm a reversal of a building and a shortening, what's the worst that could possibly happen!


Cheers

Ralf

 

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The description for this box file layout (and the industrial box file layout) talk of different track layouts being possible - Does anyone have an example of these? The only one that I have seen consists of a single point and separate straight track.

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16 hours ago, Julia said:

 

Gravity. It's so you can hoist up goods straight to the floor they need to goto. Typically a brewery,or maltings like this would be designed so that stuff follows gravity, hoist the inputs to the top, and they go down via all the processes, and out the bottom as the finished item. There should really be a joist coming out above the top door with a hook on it that you can attach a block and tackle to. 

 

J

OK thanks. I haven't every seen loading doors above the tracks and at 90deg to them. Loading doors above the tracks and parallel to them are common.

Still it's an interesting layout and I'm sure them buildings are themselves of interest. Might download them myself.

Regards

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9 hours ago, r12477 said:

The description for this box file layout (and the industrial box file layout) talk of different track layouts being possible - Does anyone have an example of these? The only one that I have seen consists of a single point and separate straight track.

The instructions with the kit show an option of three tracks running across the scene with no points, these three exiting to the right onto a traverser.  

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32 minutes ago, ed7 said:

The instructions with the kit show an option of three tracks running across the scene with no points, these three exiting to the right onto a traverser.  

 

I think it's a case of use your imagination! You could devise a track plan to include standard and narrow gauge (dualled if fancied),  wagon turntables, pointwork, whatever you like, and then just infill the ground as required, be it cobbles, concrete,  tarmac, wooden boarding, or earth. Can be anything from Great Western broad gauge down to 009 or even smaller gauges. 

 

And with a flip you can back-to-back with the previously-issued boxfile layout. Hopefully more to come!

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Just ordered one. but I'm scaling it up to 7mm. Might even look at mixed gauge S7 and broad gauge I like a challenge.

Marc 

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49 minutes ago, Furness Wagon said:

Just ordered one. but I'm scaling it up to 7mm. Might even look at mixed gauge S7 and broad gauge I like a challenge.

Marc 

 

Good on you for doing this in 7mm.  I have done a fair few Scalescenes in 7mm.

 

I bought the factory set with a view to doing something in 7mm.  This kit looks even better.

 

I am in the throes of building my main layout right now so can only dream and muse.

 

John

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Do you have any printing tips? I've been trying to use my A3 printer and even though A3 is 200%of A4 it still cuts off part of the page. 

Marc

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44 minutes ago, Furness Wagon said:

Do you have any printing tips? I've been trying to use my A3 printer and even though A3 is 200%of A4 it still cuts off part of the page. 

Marc

 

A3 is twice the size (by area) of A4, but that does NOT equate to 200% scaling. Scaling A4 by 200%, the result would be A2 (4x the area).

 

To scale from A4 to A3, the required ratio is 141%, though if you want to scale it to O gauge, you'll need a different ratio again. To scale from OO to O gauge, the ratio will be 175%, which means the original A4 sheet won't fit on A3. You'd need to print it in sections.

 

Jonathan

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That's where I have been going wrong. I will go back to printing A4 and redrawing.

Marc

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Hi folks,

 

In terms of rescaling items, I've had to enlarge 2mm to 4mm scale for a few building drawings.  What I have done is take the 2mm scale print (usually around A4) and enlarge bits of the page at 200% (thankfully I have access to an A3 copier).  It means that four elevations and a plan may take up three sheets but it's useful, and uses readily available resources.

 

For enlarging from 4mm to 7mm scale this could work as well, but may mean looking creatively at how to join elevations.

 

Hope that makes some kind of sense.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

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I’ve also downloaded  the new kit this morning.

 

Already have two projects on the go, but I couldn’t resist it.

 

I don’t think I will be exhibiting Camel Quay or Oil Drum Lane for some time.

 

So a ideal time to get stuck into some (more) modelling.

 

Terry 

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23 minutes ago, ELTEL said:

I’ve also downloaded  the new kit this morning.

 

Already have two projects on the go, but I couldn’t resist it.

 

I don’t think I will be exhibiting Camel Quay or Oil Drum Lane for some time.

 

So a ideal time to get stuck into some (more) modelling.

 

Terry 

 

How many sheets is the whole kit? How many sheets need to go on 1mm card?

 

J

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Furness Wagon said:

Do you have any printing tips? I've been trying to use my A3 printer and even though A3 is 200%of A4 it still cuts off part of the page. 

Marc

 

I have to use 8.5 x 11 paper which is standard here.  I use the "Take a snapshot" feature to select the piece I want to print.    This means several sheet of parts per kit page.

 

Here's another tip for 7mm:  I found 3.5mm foam core in my local art shop.  This is cock on for the thickness of "Heavy card" as called for in the kit.  Much easier to cut.

 

John

Edited by brossard

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3 hours ago, Julia said:

 

How many sheets is the whole kit? How many sheets need to go on 1mm card?

 

J

I have not had a look at the download yet.

 

Terry 

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8 hours ago, Julia said:

 

How many sheets is the whole kit? How many sheets need to go on 1mm card?

 

J

The wharf is 34 sheets altogether.  Of these 16 are heavy card (2 mm), 5 medium (1 mm), 1 light card, 1 OHP film and the rest print paper.   The barge is a separate file - 2 sheets - 1 heavy card, 1 mix of medium and light card and print only.  

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I had better order some more Stanley Knife blades

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10 hours ago, ELTEL said:

I had better order some more Stanley Knife blades

Or be a tightwad like me and use a sharpening steel between cuts:rolleyes:.

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