Dapol Class 68 jerky on dcc

[Roy Langridge]

54 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

 

I have often wondered that, I'd be keen to have a 21 pin board, with tracks to pads for each pin. On each track 2 holes to fit a resistor, which if you want to do that run a knife through the track.

 

Would mean one could whip the board out of their locos to put back in in case of resale, and also give an easier way of wiring a highly functioned decoder into a loco.

I am slowly changing the PCBs in nearly all my locos to allow fully independent lights etc. I use the simple 21pin boards  with solder pads that are available and a separate resistor board for where I need it - current project is sound / lights in an early Bachmann 20. 
 

Roy

[TomScrut]

13 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

I am slowly changing the PCBs in nearly all my locos to allow fully independent lights etc. I use the simple 21pin boards  with solder pads that are available and a separate resistor board for where I need it - current project is sound / lights in an early Bachmann 20. 
 

Roy

 

Yes that's what I would like to do when I get round to it. I might have to do it with two boards I thought there might be one with space for a component on each one. I suppose its just opening a can of worms in some respects as sometimes people would maybe want two components if putting diodes in there for multi functions acting on one LED. Then there is also the need for buffers on AUX3 and AUX4 on most ESU decoders and pretty much everything up function wise from there.

 

First targets would probably be a H 60, 67 or a B 70 as I think they are good locos as is and I think have all the day/night/tails to be able to do a nice job with rewiring what LEDs are already there.

[Roy Langridge]

1 minute ago, TomScrut said:

 

Yes that's what I would like to do when I get round to it. I might have to do it with two boards I thought there might be one with space for a component on each one. I suppose its just opening a can of worms in some respects as sometimes people would maybe want two components if putting diodes in there for multi functions acting on one LED. Then there is also the need for buffers on AUX3 and AUX4 on most ESU decoders and pretty much everything up function wise from there.

 

First targets would probably be a H 60, 67 or a B 70 as I think they are good locos as is and I think have all the day/night/tails to be able to do a nice job with rewiring what LEDs are already there.

Two boards can be useful as they can be tucked away in different places. One big issue I have is where either one bulb feeds marker and headlights or they are wired together - common on quite a few locos. Splitting these can be one of the harder jobs. 
 

Roy

[TomScrut]

37 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

Two boards can be useful as they can be tucked away in different places. One big issue I have is where either one bulb feeds marker and headlights or they are wired together - common on quite a few locos. Splitting these can be one of the harder jobs. 
 

Roy

 

Yeah I bet. Once one starts having to mess about with light pipes it will be a lot more tricky. I think.

[NIRCLASS80]

Did anyone ever find a cure for the jerky running?

[Gilbert]

26 minutes ago, NIRCLASS80 said:

Did anyone ever find a cure for the jerky running?

Would be good to know - I have one on order..

[boxbrownie]

13 hours ago, NIRCLASS80 said:

Did anyone ever find a cure for the jerky running?

Keep the Beef Jerky in its packet......

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

This might be of help or interest to you,Martin has a good bit stuff on all models here.

https://loco-updates.uk/class-68/index.htm

[phil Roberts]

Hi UPDATE

I know it's a bit late in the day but for those asking the question did I cure the jerky running? Yes.... I took the plunge and removed the suppression components i.e. L1, L2 and C1 as detailed earlier and now all four of my 68's run absolutely smooth as butter so many thanks to whoever it was that suggested it. They're so different.