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30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER


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Hi Alasdair,

 

If I recall correctly it is 0.010" sheet - Eileen's Emporium has a range of very thin brass sheet.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

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We have been away for a few days visiting family and house hunting "up north".

 

Just added a few details to the body of 60523.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

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On 07/07/2020 at 16:45, 30368 said:

Hi Alasdair,

 

If I recall correctly it is 0.010" sheet - Eileen's Emporium has a range of very thin brass sheet.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Hi Richard -

Thank you: perhaps I missed that bit, but what did you stick it on with ?

Cheers -

Alasdair

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Hi Alasdair,

 

I used Delux ROKET Rapid (yellow 5-10 seconds) and many hair clips to clamp the overlay to the whitemetal.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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I am finding it all relatively easy to assemble the DJH A2/3. Castings are good and not requireing too much fettling (with the exception of the running plate). I have used Markits safety valves and snifting valve (whistle not fitted yet, too vulnerable) which are first class.

I have also followed Tony Wright's advice and drilled the double chimney casting which is supplied blind. Looks much better. It is begining to look like one of Mr Thompson's beasties!

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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Some more detail added and cab etch bent to shape. Really high quality etch with all that distinctive cab detail perfectly formed. I am really enjoying building this model, the kit is so well thought out and I am a fan of the prototype.

 

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(Cab not fitted.)

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard b

 

 

001 (2).JPG

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Guest Jack Benson

Richard,

 

Despite my ambivalence towards large locos, I recognise its strength and raw power. How refreshing to hear of an satisfying build, everything I tried seemed to be designed to thwart the builder but that was too long ago.

 

Concerned to discover plans to relocate, will especially miss your visits.
 

Good luck and stay safe

 

 

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I have been working on the cab end of the 60523. I like the way that DJH have "hinged" the fall plate and retained it with the cab floor. The fireboc backplate casting is very good and has come up nicely during painting. I like to thin matt black paint with turps and apply with a brush which, I think, gives a good representation of a working cab. Used copper and brass paints to pick out the pipework.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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The "Two Dave's" visited today to collect the London Road Model's K2/2 that I built a while ago for the Bentley Model railway Group for their superb layout "Kannotburn". No money changed hands, but I am now a member of the club.

 

I thought I would take a few final pictures for my records.

 

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I shall miss 61784!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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On 18/07/2020 at 16:18, 30368 said:

I have been working on the cab end of the 60523. I like the way that DJH have "hinged" the fall plate and retained it with the cab floor. The fireboc backplate casting is very good and has come up nicely during painting. I like to thin matt black paint with turps and apply with a brush which, I think, gives a good representation of a working cab. Used copper and brass paints to pick out the pipework.

 

 

613790253_005(2).JPG.e8c0adbb5750fd7b40f27f27b34a8b54.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

Hi Richard, 

 

That's a superb cab interior, is it all a single casting?  Its very detailed for a 4mm kit.

Your black painting method is very effective, but what sort of paint have you used for the brass and copper?

 

Thanks, Dave.

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Hi Dave,

 

Many thanks, yes one casting, I didn't even use an Alan Gibson drivers brake valve. The quality of the casting is very high I agree. Paint was just Humbrol Met 12 for the copper and Met 54 for the brass. I still have to fit the pull out regulator. I think the location of the backhead is too low but that is easily fixed.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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I am building the cab as a sub-assembly. I tried out acrylic paint again but the results were not good so I had to strip back and return to enamel paint. pictures show progress with the cab temporarily fitted.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard b

 

 

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I have set aside the cab since I think I have done as much as I can without needing to fix it to the footplate, something I wish to avoid before the rest of the body is painted.

To return to more loco body detail. I have spent a very "blue" morning of curses constructing the oil delivery pirpwork on the smokebox oilers. I assume that these fed superheated steam grade oil to the valves and pistons given the pipe feeds into the smokebox-cylinder feed pipe.

 

My goodness this is a fiddly job! I noticed that there was a large variation in pipe runs between class members and chronologically! I tried to get 523 as close to late 50's early 60's as possible. Just glad the job is now done!

 

Some of my very special snapshots!

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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Thanks John, I really appreciate your comments. The approach to painting is new for me too. I usually finish and then paint but I spent a lot of time getting the cab interior right and didnt want to mess it up with overspray etc.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Todays update brings 523 close to completion. I have decided to model Sun Castle in the early 60s, when I saw the loco so that means fitting AWS. Fitting the AWS battery box below the cab on the drivers side is simple enough but the AWS electrical conduit taking power to the AWS receiver situated behind the front coupling is a little tricky particulaly since I decided to fit the conduit securing brackets. In the end I made about 25 brackets to allow for the ping! from the tweezers. I'm sure you know what I mean. Not an easy job!

Some pics:

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

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Brilliant work on all that piping Richard, and it shows the need to build an individual loco.  You would probably struggle to find two that were the same!

All the best, 
Dave.

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Thanks Dave. You are absolutely right, you have to choose which loco and when in its life to model it, so much variation!

 

How is the Z 0-8-0 tank going? I hear that the kit is really first class?

 

My next project will be the A1/1 "Great Northern" a Crown Line kit I picked up secondhand. I have not abandoned the SR, far from it, just a fan of the LNER too. I may follow the A1 with the DJH "L" class kit we will see.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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Today was very much a handrail knob and smoke deflector day.

Unusually the handrails all fitted easily. My approach is to ensure that the handrail knob holes have just enough clearance. I then thread all the knobs onto the handrail, eight a side for the boiler/smokbox handrail, and then progressively insert each knob into a hole with a tiny amount of Roket superglue Max. They both went on easily unlike the smoke deflector handrails!

 

After much fiddling around I created a raised bluetack "bed" to support the deflector and then dropped the handrail knobs into the holes and then dabbed a tiny amount of glue on the back (inside) of the deflector to secure. I should add that the Isinglass A2/3 drawing made bending the wire to the correct radius very easy.

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Handrails trimmed after assembly.

 

 

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After assembly I realised that I had forgotten to bend over the top of the deflectors!! This was easily rectified thank goodness. Defectors are temp fitted with blutack brackets. The Isinglass drawing (and the DJH instructions) are silent regarding bracketry. I assume that the prototype used brackets rather similar to those used on A3 trough deflectors??

From photographs (the overhead shot of 60523 at the start of the build is useful) it would seem that there are two brackets securing the deflectors to the smokebox visable from the front of the loco, one each side, and a series of small brackets along the top of the deflector.

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Soon be painting! What a large locomotive!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

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Following a little filler here and there the loco is ready for the paint shop. I will seperate the body from the chassis and give the body and deflectors a couple of coats of etching primer and then BR Loco Green. I shall probably paint the smokebox and tops of the running plate with a brush using thinned enamel - this usually results in a good flat finish and is much less fiddly then masking off (potental damage and overspray) the green. I am not against this approach and have used it on the Merchant Navy but I think it will work better with this locomotive.

The chassis will be brush painted too.

 

So one last look before painting.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS Just noticed I have not fitted the firebox handrails!! Any other parts left off is intentional!

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And now back to "Sun Castle" - body now seperated from the chassis. Body then polished with gfibre pen to remove grease and other muck. I then give the body a couple of coats of Railmatch etching primer followed by three coats of Railmatch BR loco green. I did mask the smokebox before applying the green.

 

Each side prior to applying primer.

 

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All the main components drying overnight before appying the smokebox and running plate black. The main part of the mainframe has also had its final coat of black. I note that 60523 did not have red lining on the cylinders in the picture of the loco that I aim to reproduce.

 

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I have ordered Fox transfer set for the A1/A2 etc. One point, as far as I can see, the sandbox filler and bracket should be green? Any views???

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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