locomotive kits 30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER

[Pebbles]

If I have remembered correctly in "Practical Model Railways", either September or October 1983, the late Ron Goult reviewed both Pro-Scales A3 and V2 . In his article he highlighted most of the problems, and also elected to go down the route of soldering the blocks in place. Well worth the read. Steve Barnfield in his much later article on building the V2 mentioned clearance problems with the leading driver, his solution, both with this issue, and the non symmetrical firebox could be of assistance. 

[30368]

Thanks Pebbles, I have a copy of Tony Wrights  Stephen Barnfields and some comments made by Malcolm Crawley all of which have been very helpful. I shall search for Ron Gault's piece too.

My goodness I am building a very old kit designed a long time ago!

 

Today I moved onto the coupling rods and painting the wheels - which are Romfords which came unpainted.

 

I always use my Poppy jig for building coupling rods it makes for a far more accurate assembly. My approach is to clean up the rods after removal from the etch, open up the crankpin holes to clear the Poppy jig rods (1.3 mm). I then tin both outer and inner rods, clean up any solder that finds its way into the crankpin holes. The rods are then fitted to the Poppy jig and clamped at each end and then the two halves soldered from the centre out.

 

Rod fitted to the jig. I am going to use the Markits return cranks again having used them on my earlier A2/3 and A1/1 builds with great success. You need to make sure that there is sufficient material around the centre crankpin hole because the hole will need to be opened out to clear the return crank. The  centre is fairly large.

 

The top surface of the rods, that which is visable during running, is filled with solder so that when cleaned up the join between the two halves is not visable.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Just a few shots now that the wheels are painted, axlebox and wheel faces cleaned up and insulating whashers fitted each side of the axle to reduce the sideplay to reasonable limits.

 

First pic shows chassis next to my Judith Edge etch B9 4-6-0.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

[30368]

Besides watching the Le Mans 24 hour Sportscar race on Eurosport I found some time to work on the coupling rods.

 

Since I am using the Markits return crank, the crank pin journal is a fairly large diameter so the centre coupling rod hole requires very careful enlarging. I initially use a drill to open out the hole and then a series of broaches, working from both sides, to slowly enlarge the hole to fit the journal. The two outer crankpin holes on the coupling rod also require enlarging to clear the Markets securing coller which fits the threaded crank pins at these two locations. I assembled the coupling rod using a 14BA brass screw and nut leaving a little slack.

 

Image shows standard etched rod components with rods modified for Markits return crank etc.

 

Coupling rod and return crank fitted with components ready for fitment to the firemans side. When I have assembled the valve gear and achieved smooth operation as a rolling chassis it is easy to disassemble and fit the gearbox and motor. Servicing is also much simplier without a soldered return crank. Additional benefits of the Markits return crank .

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited August 24, 2021 by 30368

[30368]

Firstly a quick step back to my Crownline A1/1 -

 

Not perfect I know but I am very happy with the build apart from the namplate. At the time of build (Oct - Nov 2020) I could not find a namplate with the GN crest. I noted on Paul's PDK Models site that his version (which is more or less the old Crownline model with, I am sure, some improvements) had a crested namplate so I asked Paul if he could recall where he got it from. He did a bit of research and found that Fox Transfers listed one. This was a surprise to me since I had thought I had searched the Fox site without success but sure enough there it was so a set are on order. Thanks Paul! Incidently, the A1/1 is fitted with Markits return cranks.

 

 

The ProScale V2 continues slowly since there is a lot of additional work to adapt the motion etch to the Comet cylinders and Markits return crank and crosshead. I have also used one pair (the Comet kit comes with many variations) of drop links from the Comet cylinder kit and soldered these to the crosshead.

The coupling rods and return cranks are fitted and the chassis runs smoothly. I am now moding the conecting rods to fit the centre crankpin and reducing them at the crosshead end so that they fit.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Edited August 24, 2021 by 30368

[30368]

Not much achieved over the bank holiday on the V2 front but wonderful to see various daughter, son-in-laws and their offspring and there is always something going on in Buxton to keep them busy!

 

I have assembled the "hiflier" gearbox and whilst a large portion of the axle bearings had to be removed, it fits the narrow Pro-scale frames ok. High Level gearboxes are very easy to assemble.

 

Gearbox in position. The frames had to be notched to clear the idler gear shaft but that will mean that the motor and box will sit square in the frames.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

A couple of views of the gearbox running in.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

[30368]

No progress for a bit whilst we had a very enjoyable week in The Lake District. Mostly dry amnd very warm and we completed some longish walks which seemed to be mostly up hill until the very end.

 

Motor removed from the gearbox whilst I start to assemble the valve gear. Connecting and coupling rods fitted and run smoothly. Rest of the motion should go together fairly easily. Discovered a model railway group in Buxton and attended first session post Covid. Very enjoyable kindly banter and smashing tea and cake. We managed to re-assemble the stored club layout.

 

Lots of discussion on the "LNER Bits" of this website about the V2's of various versions so must ensure my Pro-scale version is not too bad.

 

Sorry, poor focus. Coating motion with Vallejo rust and oily wash. Its seems to be water based so many coats will be required to get the desired look.

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

[30368]

Chassis is now undergoing intital running in - with only the coupling and connecting rods fitted - all seems well.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Valve gear assembly continues. The firemans side is almoust complete. I have added the reverser actuation rod to the assembly, this passes through the frame and three levers are attached to move the valve gear into forward and reverse. On the drivers side it is connected to the reverser lever running up to the cab.

You will note that the valve gear is assembled with 14 and 16BA set screws and nuts again, to facilitiate maintenence. I intend to add the valve extension rod and 3in1 lever(s) for the inside cylinder.

 

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

[30368]

Valve gear, including the valve extensions for the 3in1 motion for the inside cylinder are complete and I have started running in the chassis. I have also fitted the reversing lever which was modified a little by the addition of the rivet detail located over the trailing driver centre.

 

I am now preparing the brake gear and, if I can find space, the drivers leaf springs. I have also located nicely tarnished cylinder wrappers which have very good rivet detail. Pleased with it so far but I think the difficulties with this kit relate to the body!

 

The 3in1 motion in place and yes I know it is made of two unequal rods but it will not be visable!

 

This is the view that will be visable once the loco is complete.

 

The V2 is chassis is running in as I write this. It all seems to be fairly smooth. A picture of running in with all the valvegear fitted.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

[30368]

The chassis is almost complete. I need to add a few detail items like the cab footsteps and cylinder drain pipes and the etched cylinder covers but these can wait until the running plate is assembled and fitted to the chassis. I'm pleased with the result from both a running and appearance point of view. I've noticed that the trailing wheel is not quite central to the axlebox poition so that will require modifying.

 

The trailing axlebox casting needed a fair amount of cleaning up as well as additions to get closer to the prototype.

There are some errors on the valvegear, I should have mounted the Comet cylinders about 0.75 mm lower in the frames. The reverser is also fixed in mid gear!

 

 

Brake gear in place and you can just see the trailing axle is not quite in line with the axleboxes.

 

 

And now onto the body........

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Last parts added to the chassis and then to the paint shop - paint still wet as I took the picture - I have to get to Buxton's Fete to assist Mrs B.

 

All complete - thankfully the kit included large wheel centre covers although I had to make the centre wheel larger balance weight.

 

Some tyre cleaning required!

 

 

 

Had some trouble with the trailing wheel shorting on the rear of the mainframes which was cured by the application of insulation tape to the inside of the frames and a small square to the end of the axle.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Made a start on the body today begining with the running plate.

 

My usual approach to soldering the valances to the running plate is to make sure that all surfaces are clean and true and then used these hair clips to locate the valance in the running plate slot.

Sorry about the poor focus but you get the idea.

 

I usually work from the middle outwards with strait running plates but with the V2 I was concerned to get the curve for the wide firebox accurate so I started at that end. One side done.

 

Both sides on and no distortion.

 

Making a start on the three mounting screws. I am using two 10BA set screws at the rear with csk heads to provide plenty of clearance for the trailing wheelset. Overall, the running plate is about 1mm too short according to the drawing. I don't think my bending is wrong else the profile would be wrong.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited September 26, 2021 by 30368

[30368]

Running plate now fitted to chassis, one screw at the front and two at the rear. I have also fitted the smokebox saddle which is a pretty good casting but does not have any of the rivet detail that is so visable. I have used some wagon strapping to add this detail to the saddle and to the running plate valance. If the ends of the sections of strapping are rounded off to match, as far as possible, the end rivet head, then they don't look so "stuck on". I've taken some pictures but not too clear.

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Today I mostly did boiler work.

 

The assembly of the two boiler sections and the firebox does look a little tricky. The instructions are of limited use and a series of good V2 images, particularly of the boiler-firebox transition curves are more use. One thing you will notice is that I have not cleaned off all the greasy marks on the boiler components. I tend to agree with Michael Edge, cleaning and polishing this surface is a waste of time (except where solder/glue is to be applied!) and improves paint adhesion and appearance once the paint has been applied.

 

Smoke box and parallel section of the boiler. I have added a 5 thou brass wrapper to the smokebox which was about 1mm shorter than the smokebox supplied with the kit and then filed the extended section down to the wrapper which was the correct legnth.

 

The tapered section of the boiler with the "joining ring" soldered to the smokebox end of this section.

Another view.

 

The firebox end of the tapered boiler section. This has a flap that needs to be carefully profiled (round nosed pliers) to butt up against the firebox mounting flaps. I also added the washout plug to the flap.

 

Couple of views of the firebox. This has been modified to improve its accuracy. Firstly the series of set bolts that attach the firebox cladding at the boiler end of the firebox have been added. Secondly the etched washout plugs have had a 14BA washer added so that they are much closer to prototype appearance. I considered replacing the mud traps but did not in the end do so. I could not detect that the firebox was distorted or that one "leg" was shorter than the other as mentioned in some reviews of this model. Perhaps I will discover this later when I try to fix the wedge shaped cab front plate!

 

All three components ready for assembly.

 

KInd regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Boiler assembly....bit of a struggle particularly boiler to firebox. It seems to me that the flaps to form the compound curve between the wide firebox and boiler are just too small. However I managed to get it all together. Who said resin boilers were difficult? A piece of cake compared to this devil!

 

Boiler noty soldered into position yet. It still requires more filler at the boiler/firebox transition as you can plainly see. Boiler and firebox height above rail level are correct to drawing.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[30368]

Boiler now united with running plate and on to the cab.

 

I hope I can avoid the "Bachmann gap" with my cab front/boiler interface!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[micklner]

The Offside Valve gear doesnt look well ? Slipped ?

 

You need to get rid of the Green mould asap too !

 

Good luck

[30368]

 

15 minutes ago, micklner said:

he Offside Valve gear doesnt look well ? Slipped ?

 

You need to get rid of the Green mould asap too !

 

Hi Mick,

 

No the valvegear is fine thanks. The return cranks look a bit odd. I have used Markits, which are very well made but they are a little bulky and can look a little odd at times.

 

As to The Greenstuff, well I find it fairly useful, indeed on this build it is essential given the variable quality of the etches provided, of which more to follow.

 

 

I have not escaped the strange case of the Pro-scale V2 firebox mystery. The firemans side is shorter, by about 1mm, than the drivers side so more Greenstuff will make an appearance. Before soldering up I did remove the lower section of the beading where the firebox meets the cab front to compensate for the error in the etch. I will then add the beading after the firebox has been extended.

 

Needs cleaning up but it fits together ok.

 

Which is not the case on this side! OK at the top but 1mm gap at the bottom between cab front and firebox.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[micklner]

Ah!, sorry I thought the "Green" was Verdigris on the Brass, Green and White stuff are very useful filler, sadly no longer available , make it last  !!.

 

The Firebox join is simply diabolical !!. I suggest remove the band on that side of  the boiler fill the gap, and then reinstate using a new band joining at the top of the Boiler to the original Boiler band  or where the original band on that side actually  touches the Cab side , otherwise it will always look horrid and be almost impossible to hide.

 

Sorry the offside Valvegear looks upside down to me, the Crank should heading towards  the top in that wheel position, not underneath?.

 

Good luck

Edited October 1, 2021 by micklner

[30368]

HI Mick,

 

Yes the firebox is too short on the firemans side it being a fault with the original etch. I have mostly removed that band on that side, the top portion is ok it is the bottom two thirds that are wrong. The etch has the wrong curve. Green stuff is kept in the fridge so I still have some left that is useable.

 

I have checked the valvegear agian and it is ok. One issue with the Markits return cranks is that the lead angle from the vertical is a little too great.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited October 1, 2021 by 30368

[micklner]

I have had a look at my current Bachmann V2 . It might be my eyes , yours  still look unusual , perhaps the Eccentric Rod between the Crank and Expansion Link is too long. I am not saying the Bachmann version is perfect either !!. Apologies re slippage remark !.

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of photos for comparison.

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2021 by micklner

[30368]

Thanks for the pictures Mick.

 

My version. You can see how the return crank has more lead compared to the Bachmann version. This is not adjustable but I am prepared to accept the compromise simply because the Markits crank is so good and is easy to dissasemble for maintenence. You can also see how the profile of the firebox is wrong, ok at the top but widening towards the bottom because the profile of the etch is wrong. I should add that the tag fixing the firebox to the cab front is temporary. You can also see how the boiler to firebox transition has required brass inserts and Greenstuff filling! I should add that the body is not secured to the chassis.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[micklner]

Valvegear looks much better in the latest photo, it may have been the above angle of the earlier photo taken from above  which made it "strange" to my eyes.

 

The firebox join is going to be "fun" to correct. I presume the rear of the Firebox is that far out of alone , not the Cab etch. Have you tried bending and tweaking one or both?. The firebox is not much better at the bottom either ,at the moment. Have you tried a set square across the ends of both parts.

I have never seen this kit before, only ever heard of its prior reputation, this one is living up to the previous comments !!