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30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER


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17 minutes ago, davidw said:

I didnt think DJH did the a2/1?

Hi David,

 

Yes it would seem you are correct since the kit that arrived is for an Peppercorn A1! My 30 year gap in model railway knowledge strikes again! DJH do though, make a fine looking A2/1 kit in 7mm scale! The description on the Hattons website and on my order was very specific for an A2/1 painted number 60509 however to be fair to Hattons, the picture of the box (which I was too excited to look at in detail having been looking for an A2/1 kit for a while) was for an A1 kit! Hattons offered to take it back and provide a refund or some form of discount given the missleading description. Not wanting to re-pack etc... I opted for the discount.

 

Ah well, I will have to build the A1 some day and save up for a PDK A2/1 kit.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Rich before you build the A1, which is a cracking KIt by the way, have a word with Tony Wright. I built one that was almost finished, I didn't need it any more and he took it from me. I am sure he re did the Chassis to his standards, however he also said there are detail differences that the Instructions do not show, so beware for whichever Loco you decide to represent. Even looking at Drawings and pics isn't always enough!

That V2 Tender looks very smart by the way.

Seen this by the way? Coal Weighing Tender in process.20211112_104514.jpg.0882df016f89724aa50f7bb6e428ab16.jpg

Will go behind '24 eventually.

P

 

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On 11/11/2021 at 15:45, 30368 said:

Hi David,

 

Yes it would seem you are correct since the kit that arrived is for an Peppercorn A1! My 30 year gap in model railway knowledge strikes again! DJH do though, make a fine looking A2/1 kit in 7mm scale! The description on the Hattons website and on my order was very specific for an A2/1 painted number 60509 however to be fair to Hattons, the picture of the box (which I was too excited to look at in detail having been looking for an A2/1 kit for a while) was for an A1 kit! Hattons offered to take it back and provide a refund or some form of discount given the missleading description. Not wanting to re-pack etc... I opted for the discount.

 

Ah well, I will have to build the A1 some day and save up for a PDK A2/1 kit.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

The other lower tech option for an A2/1 is a Nu Cast one off ebay. Mainly white metal and a bit "clunky", I have one in the someday cupboard!

 

John.

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4 hours ago, Mallard60022 said:

Rich before you build the A1, which is a cracking KIt by the way,

 

Many thanks Phil, as always great advice. I will PM Tony for some guidance - I have a Bachmann A1 too so I thought I would build the DJH kit, with suggested improvements, and improve the Bachmann version where possible.

 

French Line's SW tender looks great. A useful variation, if I recall, the tender moved about a bit?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS - Sorry, I have not built the LMS style buffer stops yet!

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18 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

Many thanks Phil, as always great advice. I will PM Tony for some guidance - I have a Bachmann A1 too so I thought I would build the DJH kit, with suggested improvements, and improve the Bachmann version where possible.

 

French Line's SW tender looks great. A useful variation, if I recall, the tender moved about a bit?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS - Sorry, I have not built the LMS style buffer stops yet!

Thanks. Yup, it was with '18 for some time till around 57 I think? Then it went to '24 until late '61 when the Tender was rebuilt with a new Tank etc. I don't knowingly remember seeing it but I may well have. Info from the Book of the MNs.

As for TW, I think re rewrote the DJH Instructions for the A1 and some others, so it is so much easier to follow & good to build. However there are daft little differences such as Lubricator Position and the famous 'wiggly pipes' that only apply to maybe one Loco' . He knows them all and it is fun to get those little things correct for your date of running the thing!!!

ATB

P

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23 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

 

The other lower tech option for an A2/1 is a Nu Cast one off ebay. Mainly white metal and a bit "clunky", I have one in the someday cupboard!

 

John.

I am sure I had one of those and mostly built it and the Tender weighed more than the Loco! TW actually told me it was one of the best efforts he had seen for a Nu Cast one! At the time I was collecting large ER Loco's as I had an EM Layout based on Trafalgar Yard near Heaton Depot so thought I'd have loads of LE movements for variety!

P

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19 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

Many thanks Phil, as always great advice. I will PM Tony for some guidance - I have a Bachmann A1 too so I thought I would build the DJH kit, with suggested improvements, and improve the Bachmann version where possible.

French Line's SW tender looks great. A useful variation, if I recall, the tender moved about a bit?

Kind regards,

Richard B

 

PS - Sorry, I have not built the LMS style buffer stops yet!

I am ashamed to admit I have used a Peco one on one siding!!!!! Spot the difference.......nah!

They are a nice hour's Occupational Therapy if you need some Mindfulness time. I actually weathered mine too!

P

Edited by Mallard60022
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Apart from coal and some light weathering in/on the tender the V2 is finished. I am very grateful for all the help and advice receieved during the build I hope it made a difference to the result. I think that the Proscale kit is flawed and needs a great deal of preperation before assembly but can result in a quite decent model. The kit cost me £50, including all the wheels, and I spent about £90 for the motor and gearbox, the replacement cylinders and Markits return cranks as well as a few other items. So it was cheaper than the Bachmann V2 but that is ignoring the many hours of effort! I have not seen the new Bachmann V2 but by all accounts it is good. The bottom line for me is that the build gave me hours of enjoyment and some very blue moments and that real pay off.....I built that.

 

As I have said many times, the loco looks better than my rubbish images!

591910628_IMG_6878(2).JPG.36a8de50bfd4f21f2b5c8a5bf0a9f2bb.JPG

Some correction required on the tender lining!

2026325569_IMG_6876(2).JPG.fb6e8f442a547e4cef73a39f9d3b0da2.JPG

  1252901452_IMG_6874(2).JPG.cec8abeb68f7f73bb13e6534610c9dee.JPG

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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21 hours ago, 30368 said:

The bottom line for me is that the build gave me hours of enjoyment and some very blue moments and that real pay off.....I built that.

And isn't that, really, the whole point of our hobby? 

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I have given a wee bit more thought on what to build next. Time to return to the SR, specifically locomotives of the LSWR. A little while back I built a model of H15 4-6-0 30491. That's the original Urie H15 design with a Maunsell tapered boiler fitted to release a large Urie parallel boiler as a spare for the other Urie H15s. I built this with a PDK chassis, originally fitted to the PDK contructed model of 30333 etc... I digress.

Rather than use the resin boiler supplied with the PDK H15 kit I used the boiler from a (very cheap!) SEF King Arther kit and bunged the resin boiler into the N15 box and thought I'll build that sometime. I also bought an SEF N15 tender/loco chassis kit.

 

Well that time has now come so I intend to build the hybrid N15 kit alongside a DJH Urie S15 4-6-0, a kit that I have had for some time. I must be careful not to mix up components!

 

A reminder of what 30491 looks like. Larger 5000 gall. Urie tender converted from an SEF 4,200 gall. tender.

1787729361_IMG_6889(2).JPG.c65776ea391368d29b9766565298e609.JPG

 

The two kits ready to start.

1665496986_IMG_6882(2).JPG.f53390dceea55b4dd0f3ae7b3d3a88fd.JPG

 

SEF chassis parts on the left, DJH on the right. Many years seperate the Kit designs. THe S15 came with Markits wheels. I have located 26mm/22 spoke Markits wheels for the N15 on EBAY, they are on their way.

1166335152_IMG_6885(2).JPG.fa0a65bd4b4deb89d433684bf690d8a0.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

 

Richard B

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Oooh, I'm so looking forward to following this build. 

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1 hour ago, 30368 said:

I have given a wee bit more thought on what to build next. Time to return to the SR, specifically locomotives of the LSWR. A little while back I built a model of H15 4-6-0 30491. That's the original Urie H15 design with a Maunsell tapered boiler fitted to release a large Urie parallel boiler as a spare for the other Urie H15s. I built this with a PDK chassis, originally fitted to the PDK contructed model of 30333 etc... I digress.

Rather than use the resin boiler supplied with the PDK H15 kit I used the boiler from a (very cheap!) SEF King Arther kit and bunged the resin boiler into the N15 box and thought I'll build that sometime. I also bought an SEF N15 tender/loco chassis kit.

 

Well that time has now come so I intend to build the hybrid N15 kit alongside a DJH Urie S15 4-6-0, a kit that I have had for some time. I must be careful not to mix up components!

 

A reminder of what 30491 looks like. Larger 5000 gall. Urie tender converted from an SEF 4,200 gall. tender.

1787729361_IMG_6889(2).JPG.c65776ea391368d29b9766565298e609.JPG

 

The two kits ready to start.

1665496986_IMG_6882(2).JPG.f53390dceea55b4dd0f3ae7b3d3a88fd.JPG

 

SEF chassis parts on the left, DJH on the right. Many years seperate the Kit designs. THe S15 came with Markits wheels. I have located 26mm/22 spoke Markits wheels for the N15 on EBAY, they are on their way.

1166335152_IMG_6885(2).JPG.fa0a65bd4b4deb89d433684bf690d8a0.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

 

Richard B

XLNT choice Richard. Have a dig around on here for the coverage of the S15 Build by Dave LR I think it is. I could find a link if pushed! The reason I suggest this  is that his experiences are worth noting due to certain shortcomings on the S15 .  However his wasn't a Urie IIRC?

The SEF Chassis for the Artur is a cracker IMO. The Clearances on the Drivers are very tight. If you have any issues with the EBay ones, I have a spare set you can have; no need for them here. Think I also have a Watercart version Tender you could have too. 

Good luck,

Phil

 

P.S Link https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos-g6-connoisseur-kit/page/3/#c

Persever on the thread and scroll down about half way. DLR has loads of useful posts on his builds, as you will have no doubt.

P

Edited by Mallard60022
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1 hour ago, Mallard60022 said:

XLNT choice Richard.

 

Phil, You are really too kind. Will look up the reference. I understand that the tolerances on thr 26mm drivers on the N15 are tight. What I have done in the past is to firmly screw the wheel to the axle, put the axle in a piller drill (low speed, 400 rpm) and gently chamfer off the wheel flange. This creates enough clearance. Its equally tight on the 24mm drivers on the H15.

 

Coincidently I have a spare whitemetal watercart tender that I built for my S11 4-4-0 which weighs a ton, too heavy for the S11 which now has a Hornby T9 tender. Will let you know how I get on with the 26mm drivers when they arrive.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited by 30368
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59 minutes ago, 30368 said:

 

Phil, You are really too kind. Will look up the reference. I understand that the tolerances on thr 26mm drivers on the N15 are tight. What I have done in the past is to firmly screw the wheel to the axle, put the axle in a piller drill (low speed, 400 rpm) and gently chamfer off the wheel flange. This creates enough clearance. Its equally tight on the 24mm drivers on the H15.

 

Coincidently I have a spare whitemetal watercart tender that I built for my S11 4-4-0 which weighs a ton, too heavy for the S11 which now has a Hornby T9 tender. Will let you know how I get on with the 26mm drivers when they arrive.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Ah you did the H15 as I did. The really were touching!

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Well an interesting morning so far. Started to prepare the frames for the N/S15 ready for the axle bearings to be soldered into position. All very "routine" now that I have built a number of locos.

 

No prizes for guessing which frames are from which kit. It illustrates well how our hobby has moved on over what, 25 years? The SEF frames were designed by Dave Ellis about 5-10 years ago, the DJH many years before that. I will be modifying the S15 frames.

1207528866_IMG_6890(2).JPG.aee1ff699f3065bd881d235b973eb105.JPG

 

Then the pleasant surprise. When I purchased the N15 frame etches from SEF, Dave Ellis was going through a difficult patch. It helps to chat to a stranger sometimes. Whilst I had chatted with Dave over the years about our hobby I have never met him face to face. Anyway, I hoped that I had helped. So when I searched in the N15 kit box for the axle bearings I discovered that Dave had sent me two complete N15 frame kits in the one box. That is really too kind Dave I hope you are enjoying your retirement. Thanks mate.

1100323763_IMG_6891(2).JPG.27224b357965ee26afe80f04e6ba8002.JPG

 

Life can often be just great!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited by 30368
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Dave at SEF was one of the nicest blokes you could meet and, as you experienced, speak to. He was so helpful and provided all sorts for me that were not even on spares lists. A quality bloke to have moved on. I wish him a long and safe retirement too.

Phil

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16 minutes ago, Mallard60022 said:

Dave at SEF was one of the nicest blokes you could meet

 

Totally agree Phil. However out of respect, I may have to build another N15.......

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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23 minutes ago, 30368 said:

 

Totally agree Phil. However out of respect, I may have to build another N15.......

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

One of the 'alternatives' then! Cab/Cab Roof or something IIRC. 

Look forward to seeing those.

P

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Frame axle bearings in place and on the N15 (SEF) I have added some rivet detail to the firebox.

 

The first problem with the DJH S15 frames - no holes for the brake hanger brackets. There really is not much room between the leadind and middle driver for the barke gear so careful measurement (and some compromises re prototype location of the hanger brackets) is required.

 

 

1574148832_IMG_6894(2).JPG.1a202fbc14af91359900ba1e2563b087.JPG

 

 

 

The S15 is going to have a Branchlines two stage gearbox and large Mashima can motor, the N15 a HL Coreless motor and Highflyer gearbox.

 

 

I have drillled the hanger bracket holes in both frames. I have added the locational measurements to the lower frame. So from the RH end, 8mm from the frame end, 30mm from the first hole, then 25mm from the middle hole. Then the height from the frame edge is 1mm, 2.5mm and 3mm respectively. I do not claim that these are prototypical but they should mean that you have just enough clearance for the brake blocks and hangers. Check the location of the hanger bracket between leading and trailing wheel since there is barely clearance...

712454698_IMG_6895(2).JPG.3f1a67f70597c6b27844bbe28258f9e4.JPG

 

Hope that helps if anyone is considering building a DJH Urie S15. There are some kits out there!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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18 hours ago, 30368 said:

Frame axle bearings in place and on the N15 (SEF) I have added some rivet detail to the firebox.

 

The first problem with the DJH S15 frames - no holes for the brake hanger brackets. There really is not much room between the leadind and middle driver for the barke gear so careful measurement (and some compromises re prototype location of the hanger brackets) is required.

 

 

1574148832_IMG_6894(2).JPG.1a202fbc14af91359900ba1e2563b087.JPG

 

 

 

The S15 is going to have a Branchlines two stage gearbox and large Mashima can motor, the N15 a HL Coreless motor and Highflyer gearbox.

 

 

I have drillled the hanger bracket holes in both frames. I have added the locational measurements to the lower frame. So from the RH end, 8mm from the frame end, 30mm from the first hole, then 25mm from the middle hole. Then the height from the frame edge is 1mm, 2.5mm and 3mm respectively. I do not claim that these are prototypical but they should mean that you have just enough clearance for the brake blocks and hangers. Check the location of the hanger bracket between leading and trailing wheel since there is barely clearance...

712454698_IMG_6895(2).JPG.3f1a67f70597c6b27844bbe28258f9e4.JPG

 

Hope that helps if anyone is considering building a DJH Urie S15. There are some kits out there!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Thanks Richard, I have two in the stash to build one day, so this is useful to me. I'll be watching your build with interest.

 

Kind regards, 

 

Phil B.

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Busy today up in the loft changing the C/H header tank fill valve. Rather tricky access requireing great flexibility but job now done. Not bad for an old git, all that gym work is not a waste of time after all.

 

The 26mm wheels for the N15 arrived today, they seem ok but one crank pin hole may require re-threading. Just waiting for the HL gearbox and then I will start chassis assembly. Meanwhile the S15 motor/gearbox has been assembled and the frames screwed together with those DJH frame spacers.

IMG_6897.JPG.719a75a9704da6894ad3d4a8a968e1a6.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Coupling rods and frame alignment today.

 

I am once again using Markits return cranks. The one downside being the necessarily large coupling rod/connecting rod journal diameter. This requires a large amount of material to be removed from the centre coupling rod crankpin hole. The marine big end used by Urie on his 4-6-0s has plenty of meat arount the big end so that is no problem. The DJH coupling rod for the S15 is very plain having no bosses for the crankpins so I have soldered washers to beef up the centre of the coupling rod and added the same to the other two crankpin holes for appearances sake. This also means I can use solder to create the chamfer around the crankpin bosses.

 

Modified coupling rods and Markits return crank. The outer crankpin holes will be opened up to clear Markits threaded washers.

1505615311_IMG_6898(2).JPG.6c404d62ef3974d8d3b38192a66ec38a.JPG

 

I have slackened the screws securing the frame spacers so that the two frame halves are aligned in the Poppy jig. I then tightened these very carefully so as not to disturb the alignment then dabbed some superglue on the screw heads to secure. I will solder later when I am happy with the chassis alignment.

553433258_IMG_6899(2).JPG.2e648b6dde7907ea6b4c8b1783aa25a5.JPG

 

Rods in place.

858217768_IMG_6900(2).JPG.879c6d58cf4f0b00710599fce27ba0bd.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Not much progress today. Visit from one of our daughters and her son Jack who is almost two. Lovely little chap so I have ordered Hornby "Flying Scotsman" train set for his Christmas present. It is important to introduce youngsters to our wonderful hobby ASAP - it may just stick.

 

Coupling rods fitted - very free running. So on to the pickups and we should have a rolling chassis.

200166029_IMG_6904(2).JPG.6f8f1d65dfca52184f758d833a25e89b.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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