Jump to content
 

30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium
Just now, richard i said:

That has given me inspiration to tackle my B9.

 

Thanks very much Richard - without wishing to sound too big headed, one of my objectives is to encourage others to build loco's. Good luck.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

When you get round to the tender don't forget it kept LNER on it until scrapping. Mine has a BR numberplate on the front but I'm not sure it ever got one - might make it slightly easier to identify in Brunswick shed though, all GC engines look much the same from above.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

When you get round to the tender don't forget it kept LNER on it until scrapping. Mine has a BR numberplate on the front but I'm not sure it ever got one - might make it slightly easier to identify in Brunswick shed though, all GC engines look much the same from above.

 

You are right Mike, 61475 never received a front numberplate. It only carried its last number for just over 3 months in traffic. On both 1475 and 1469 whover did the renumbering on Heaton Mersey shed appears just to have crudely painted out the bufferbeam number and left it at that.

 

Lovely work on the loco Richard. You must be very pleased.

 

Simon

Edited by 65179
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

When you get round to the tender don't forget it kept LNER on it

 

Thanks Michael. I have already ordered post war black painted loco shaded LNER transfers from Fox. As far as I can tell from the images, the LNER on the tender was shaded. I don't think she had a BR front number plate but understand why you have fitted one.

 

I recall seeing Brunswick shed at whichever exhibition it was when I bought the B9 kit from you. Very impressive!  I agree, the B9 looks a lot like the O4 I have.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, 65179 said:

Lovely work on the loco Richard. You must be very pleased.

 

Hi Simon,

 

Thanks for the very kind comments. I am very pleased thanks. And thanks for all the kind and helpful advice from you and from Michael. Much appreciated.

 

After being told by no less a person than Ian Rathbone (and Michael) that the boiler bands are too thick (they are) I must start using Scotch Magic Tape.

 

I will now build the tender alongside re-erecting Basingstoke shed on my layout!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard b

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
10 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

Thanks Michael. I have already ordered post war black painted loco shaded LNER transfers from Fox. As far as I can tell from the images, the LNER on the tender was shaded. I don't think she had a BR front number plate but understand why you have fitted one.

 

I recall seeing Brunswick shed at whichever exhibition it was when I bought the B9 kit from you. Very impressive!  I agree, the B9 looks a lot like the O4 I have.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

When we are operating the layout we have to look down through the remains of the shed roof to identify the locos according to what the yard operator has requested. There are usually several big GC locos in there with identical tenders and very similar boilers but might be a large wheeled 4-6-0 or a 2-8-0, you can't read the cabside numbers at this angle but you might just get a glimpse of a smokebox numberplate - anyway the plate is staying on my 61475.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Just noted that no sandpipes fitted to 61475 so this has been corrected and then a light dusting of weathering powder has been applied. I then polished the boiler, splashers and parts of the cab with a cotton bud which brings a slight shine to the polished areas due, I think, to the slightly abrasive effect of the powder. It looks very effective in natural light not so good with my camera!

Tender started.

1643945981_001(2).JPG.e38cd1b19f95c8e26337ac192fb081ca.JPG

1868342738_002(2).JPG.7178da1468fcdd0b3a25756903532e55.JPG

1089807230_003(2).JPG.f3f0d26edfb343a2b67afe71ff7a74ca.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

  • Like 6
  • Round of applause 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

And so to the tender. I have had warnings that although "standard" GCR tenders have many variations so I will move carefully!

Give me a shout if/when I go wrong.

 

Underframe is very straitforward with inside bearings for the axles so no pointed axle ends to fit into slightly miss-aligned axleboxes! It is, as one would expect, a well designed kit (Michael Edge) and again, reasonably priced compared to some.

797564535_001(2).JPG.3815adab8faad0a187025181c2ea7b5a.JPG

1034623298_002(2).JPG.0c2871a7b2165c20eeb516e644dd3da6.JPG

 

This is the running plate with the two 12BA nuts, to which the underframe is fixed, soldered in position. The four 14BA clearance holes in each corner are used to secure the tank (tender body) to the underframe.

954179770_003(2).JPG.a5bd4f66b5503f2a7928b695875b593d.JPG

 

Sorry not a great picture. This shows the 14BA screw locating the nut ready for soldering into position. This is the way I always solder captive nuts in position for accuracy. Care needed to avoid soldering the nut and screw together. Very helpfully the screws supplied with the kit are black steel so don't take to solder too well.

910989433_004(2).JPG.4a9a39493ab2c90af334bcd71c971c21.JPG

 

The tender tank (top, two sides and back) soldered together making sure that the half etch strips are to the top of the tank, these will locate the curved top sections of the tender body.

897120143_006(2).JPG.1c5b6e8f0713472d92254aa18f5d77d7.JPG

 

The base of the tank offered up to the tank ready for soldering. I will not solder yet untill I have checked out access for soldering the coal bunker sections into position. Note the large clearance cut outs for the 12BA chassis securing screws/nuts.

1864032503_005(2).JPG.d34de0a0017b003c2a0f2535e5e32249.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by 30368
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

A small drop of oil (I use 3 in 1) on the thread also helps stop things soldering together. 

 

Brian 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

You're doing the soldering upside down - you should bolt the base to the footplate and assemble the sides/ends on that. However if it works this way round I'll be interested in the result.

1 hour ago, BSW01 said:

A small drop of oil (I use 3 in 1) on the thread also helps stop things soldering together. 

 

Brian 

About the only sensible use I've seen suggested for 3 in 1, it does terrible things to all sorts of plastics.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The tender tank is now a complete box.

 

Michael, I soldered the tank sides and back to the top of the tank because the top includes the front of the tender thus making it a little easier to solder it all together square. Anyway it seems to have worked, the tank base, that you suggest should have been soldered to the sides and back first, fitted fairly easily because, in part, the tank was very square. I made up and soldered the bunker to the top of the tank first before the base was fitted!

It fits, what is the running plate, just fine. More than one way to skin a cat I guess.

 

Bunker soldered together.

1511449963_001(2).JPG.83b9328a18e72bc5a9f4d815aadec834.JPG1217594763_002(2).JPG.ed654ff24c0964895d1caa763fe479c6.JPG

 

And soldered to the tender tank top. The indents on the tank top are for, I believe, lifting eyes.

2113039738_004(2).JPG.b1cfcdf96ccf4e496365b3e3e7357762.JPG

Base soldered to the rest of the tank.

815761923_006(2).JPG.158a44bdd899e06e5585dc2cea17cb13.JPG

794068632_007(2).JPG.0c4966e692c22a76caa4806019e0316a.JPG

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS Took some pictures of 61475 in natural light - setting sun catches this corner of the layout well.

 

 

934181704_008(2).JPG.f1af8840a910cd56cbac1e745c262227.JPG

 

 

 

Edited by 30368
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

If the tank still bolts up flat on to the footplate without twisting it it's fine. Interesting to see another way of doing the job, the technique was originally developed for diesel shunters to make sure that they weren't distorted as they were soldered up. It also helps a great deal if there are two colours involved, one often unbolts from the other removing the need for masking - doesn't matter in your case though.

  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Tender body now about complete, even the drivers steering wheel is in place.....

 

I guess I shall move on to the brake gear next and then we are almost done.

 

I have not noticed before (where are those specs!) but tank filler etc need re-positioning.

2075008738_001(2).JPG.4643a237067c0ee8612aed55867c7148.JPG

 

Needs a little dab of greenstuff on the coal raves in places.

314064257_002(2).JPG.d124270635072fd0d71f7b006155608c.JPG

 

579128069_003(2).JPG.e4ccf834a687129a883de58d1ce58be9.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Thanks Michael - but not quite square! Perhaps not as obvious as I thought in the picture. Now sorted thanks. By the way - a really good design separating the tank from the running plate and that from the chassis, should make tender pick-up much easier.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Just listening and watching Dominic Cummings evidence to the Select Committee - somewhat tricky for PM and Hancock!

 

Anyway, tender almoust complete so a few pictures taken on Basingstoke's turntable.

1327672087_IMG_6525(2).JPG.8f9635f18eba83d053882f7a034e1c5e.JPG

 

1072886527_IMG_6526(2).JPG.eb642796607791b43c3571d3764d2024.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Final pictures before painting the tender. Quite pleased with the result, looks ok. I have just spotted that the footsteps are missing so will fit them before painting! I have added a wiper pickup to the two trailing axles on the tender so will add the other half of the connector to the loco motor connections.

 

1060215449_IMG_6529(2).JPG.62bb02b16166845b99e734483beb3950.JPG

 

2037038360_IMG_6527(2).JPG.3f8b00b6c19709b0c36fa22c2b4b140f.JPG

 

1816194673_IMG_6528(2).JPG.2f7728c1300d095d95dcdf34da322890.JPG

 

1609054043_IMG_6530(2).JPG.68331214269c5975ca53ee68c0fa6432.JPG

 

When this loco is finished, I will allocate more time to building my 70D layout, shed walls are all up at last.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

The B9 is now complete and has been moved to 70D's turntable much to the surprise of the SR men. Speculation is that 61475 brought a train load of tanks from Banbury for forwarding to somewhere in Wiltshire. They are lining up a load of empties for its return North. Must of been a very heavy job for the crew, tender is virtually empty of coal.

 

Very enjoyable build with lots of help from Michael Edge and many other GCR experts, many thanks.

 

As you can see I have used weathering powder on both loco and tender. I rather like the stuff because over time I can clean it off and return the underlying shine if so desired and so on.

 

1519993922_IMG_6539(2).JPG.14f8d51a4836a8d74f214cd14d476ea8.JPG

 

124668653_IMG_6542(2).JPG.6f49a822bf2d628ff36e6d8b58394f27.JPG

 

784540449_IMG_6544(2).JPG.a16b298dcda4cef690b638e9f259bcec.JPG

 

1891092910_IMG_6543(2).JPG.be8f78dca178c6af40ba5f2b2eefaa5b.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

The weathering powders have worked well, just enough to take the newness off the paint whilst still looking quite cared for.

 

I've more than an academic interest in this as I've never really got on with wet weathering, it doesn't suit my probably over tidy nature, and this approach could be just the answer.

 

John.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
35 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

The weathering powders have worked well, just enough to take the newness off the paint whilst still looking quite cared for.

 

Hi John,

 

Yes I agree. Powders are just more flexible giving you the option to clean your loco and then dirty it up again many times. I also have to add a little oily blue wash to the tender axleboxes and loco oil cups.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Postscript - The LNER transfer on the tender was fixed using Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol - the first time I have used these materials. Providing you are patient they work really well removing the excess material from around the decal and creating a more realistic appearance. I shall try retro using Micro Sol on more of my loco's. Recommended.

 

Final shot of the B9 coming off the turntable and on its way back to Banbury and beyond....

 

872100984_IMG_6545(2).JPG.15f6edbd06201d19eb78b5f358edd8da.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

And now for something completely different! An SR ex LSWR prototype the Drummond/Urie S11 4-4-0. This will be based on a very old "LSWR kit" of a T9 4-4-0 that I purchased from a fellow member of the LSWR Circle.

 

The S11 (and L12) were both based on the T9 10 foot wheelbase chassis but with slightly larger higher pitched boilers. Higher pitched because this improved access to the inside valvegear. The L12 had 6ft 7 inch drivers and the S11 6ft. The idea being the S11's would be useful West of Salisbury. I built an L12 some time ago based on a SEF chassis with most of the bodywork scratch built from brass sheet. The same approach will be adopted for the S11. Work on 70D continues in between loco building.

 

The kit has a whitemetal running plate the rear portion of which was discarded. The T9 kit was a narrow cab version so a new, wider running plate has been made from brass sheet. The kit running plate was then glued to the brass running plate (weight usefull and guidance for the brass running plate edges.

1454237514_IMG_6552(2).JPG.d1dd30401334802c8bad2245b9c51094.JPG

 

Some rivet detail added to the running plate which is wider than the T9 doner.

1402885991_IMG_6551(2).JPG.bfbd1a3d681bac73d769bfd08f59684f.JPG

 

Chassis will use original mounting locations. One leaf spring has become detached fortunately I have the part.

152240934_IMG_6553(2).JPG.120d61261373dd51d82219c57fea1b1b.JPG

 

24mm Markits drivers, Mashima 10/20 can motor and two stage gearbox on order from Branchlines.  The kit has a partially assembled water cart tender and the loco painted number will probably be 30398 simply because I know it worked from 70D I have a lovely picture of it on the shed.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited by 30368
  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...