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30368's Workbench SR Loco's with a bit of LNER


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If I have remembered correctly in "Practical Model Railways", either September or October 1983, the late Ron Goult reviewed both Pro-Scales A3 and V2 . In his article he highlighted most of the problems, and also elected to go down the route of soldering the blocks in place. Well worth the read. Steve Barnfield in his much later article on building the V2 mentioned clearance problems with the leading driver, his solution, both with this issue, and the non symmetrical firebox could be of assistance. 

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Thanks Pebbles, I have a copy of Tony Wrights  Stephen Barnfields and some comments made by Malcolm Crawley all of which have been very helpful. I shall search for Ron Gault's piece too.

My goodness I am building a very old kit designed a long time ago!

 

Today I moved onto the coupling rods and painting the wheels - which are Romfords which came unpainted.

 

I always use my Poppy jig for building coupling rods it makes for a far more accurate assembly. My approach is to clean up the rods after removal from the etch, open up the crankpin holes to clear the Poppy jig rods (1.3 mm). I then tin both outer and inner rods, clean up any solder that finds its way into the crankpin holes. The rods are then fitted to the Poppy jig and clamped at each end and then the two halves soldered from the centre out.

 

Rod fitted to the jig. I am going to use the Markits return cranks again having used them on my earlier A2/3 and A1/1 builds with great success. You need to make sure that there is sufficient material around the centre crankpin hole because the hole will need to be opened out to clear the return crank. The  centre is fairly large.

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The top surface of the rods, that which is visable during running, is filled with solder so that when cleaned up the join between the two halves is not visable.

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Just a few shots now that the wheels are painted, axlebox and wheel faces cleaned up and insulating whashers fitted each side of the axle to reduce the sideplay to reasonable limits.

 

First pic shows chassis next to my Judith Edge etch B9 4-6-0.

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Besides watching the Le Mans 24 hour Sportscar race on Eurosport I found some time to work on the coupling rods.

 

Since I am using the Markits return crank, the crank pin journal is a fairly large diameter so the centre coupling rod hole requires very careful enlarging. I initially use a drill to open out the hole and then a series of broaches, working from both sides, to slowly enlarge the hole to fit the journal. The two outer crankpin holes on the coupling rod also require enlarging to clear the Markets securing coller which fits the threaded crank pins at these two locations. I assembled the coupling rod using a 14BA brass screw and nut leaving a little slack.

 

Image shows standard etched rod components with rods modified for Markits return crank etc.

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Coupling rod and return crank fitted with components ready for fitment to the firemans side. When I have assembled the valve gear and achieved smooth operation as a rolling chassis it is easy to disassemble and fit the gearbox and motor. Servicing is also much simplier without a soldered return crank. Additional benefits of the Markits return crank .

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Edited by 30368
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Posted (edited)

Firstly a quick step back to my Crownline A1/1 -

 

Not perfect I know but I am very happy with the build apart from the namplate. At the time of build (Oct - Nov 2020) I could not find a namplate with the GN crest. I noted on Paul's PDK Models site that his version (which is more or less the old Crownline model with, I am sure, some improvements) had a crested namplate so I asked Paul if he could recall where he got it from. He did a bit of research and found that Fox Transfers listed one. This was a surprise to me since I had thought I had searched the Fox site without success but sure enough there it was so a set are on order. Thanks Paul! Incidently, the A1/1 is fitted with Markits return cranks.

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The ProScale V2 continues slowly since there is a lot of additional work to adapt the motion etch to the Comet cylinders and Markits return crank and crosshead. I have also used one pair (the Comet kit comes with many variations) of drop links from the Comet cylinder kit and soldered these to the crosshead.

The coupling rods and return cranks are fitted and the chassis runs smoothly. I am now moding the conecting rods to fit the centre crankpin and reducing them at the crosshead end so that they fit.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Edited by 30368
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Not much achieved over the bank holiday on the V2 front but wonderful to see various daughter, son-in-laws and their offspring and there is always something going on in Buxton to keep them busy!

 

I have assembled the "hiflier" gearbox and whilst a large portion of the axle bearings had to be removed, it fits the narrow Pro-scale frames ok. High Level gearboxes are very easy to assemble.

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Gearbox in position. The frames had to be notched to clear the idler gear shaft but that will mean that the motor and box will sit square in the frames.

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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  • 2 weeks later...

No progress for a bit whilst we had a very enjoyable week in The Lake District. Mostly dry amnd very warm and we completed some longish walks which seemed to be mostly up hill until the very end.

 

Motor removed from the gearbox whilst I start to assemble the valve gear. Connecting and coupling rods fitted and run smoothly. Rest of the motion should go together fairly easily. Discovered a model railway group in Buxton and attended first session post Covid. Very enjoyable kindly banter and smashing tea and cake. We managed to re-assemble the stored club layout.

 

Lots of discussion on the "LNER Bits" of this website about the V2's of various versions so must ensure my Pro-scale version is not too bad.

 

Sorry, poor focus. Coating motion with Vallejo rust and oily wash. Its seems to be water based so many coats will be required to get the desired look.

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

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Valve gear assembly continues. The firemans side is almoust complete. I have added the reverser actuation rod to the assembly, this passes through the frame and three levers are attached to move the valve gear into forward and reverse. On the drivers side it is connected to the reverser lever running up to the cab.

You will note that the valve gear is assembled with 14 and 16BA set screws and nuts again, to facilitiate maintenence. I intend to add the valve extension rod and 3in1 lever(s) for the inside cylinder.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

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Valve gear, including the valve extensions for the 3in1 motion for the inside cylinder are complete and I have started running in the chassis. I have also fitted the reversing lever which was modified a little by the addition of the rivet detail located over the trailing driver centre.

 

I am now preparing the brake gear and, if I can find space, the drivers leaf springs. I have also located nicely tarnished cylinder wrappers which have very good rivet detail. Pleased with it so far but I think the difficulties with this kit relate to the body!

 

The 3in1 motion in place and yes I know it is made of two unequal rods but it will not be visable!

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This is the view that will be visable once the loco is complete.

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The V2 is chassis is running in as I write this. It all seems to be fairly smooth. A picture of running in with all the valvegear fitted.

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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The chassis is almost complete. I need to add a few detail items like the cab footsteps and cylinder drain pipes and the etched cylinder covers but these can wait until the running plate is assembled and fitted to the chassis. I'm pleased with the result from both a running and appearance point of view. I've noticed that the trailing wheel is not quite central to the axlebox poition so that will require modifying.

 

The trailing axlebox casting needed a fair amount of cleaning up as well as additions to get closer to the prototype.

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There are some errors on the valvegear, I should have mounted the Comet cylinders about 0.75 mm lower in the frames. The reverser is also fixed in mid gear!

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Brake gear in place and you can just see the trailing axle is not quite in line with the axleboxes.

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And now onto the body........

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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