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  • RMweb Gold
53 minutes ago, Locksley said:

Thanks for the kind comments all :)

 

I got the last couple of Dapol wagons I bought a few months ago weathered and 3-link'd this afternoon.

 

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I've just had to pour a glass of whiskey for myself in order to warm up after looking at these.

 

Rob.

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Thanks again for the comments chaps! Much appreciated, and glad to offer inspiriation :)

 

Decided to swap the broken lamp for a new one as it did look a bit odd, and I picked up a pair of absolutely beautiful telegraph poles from Express Models too while I was at it which I think it needed. I've also put a few wintry tufts of grass around, as well as some snowdrop-type plants just to break things up a bit, although I'm not 100% sold on them so I might end up removing them.

 

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I decided to treat myself to a second hand Bachmann 8750 Pannier last week too which typically I missed the delivery of today, but expect that soon. I have some fireirons & screwlinks to fit initially, plus a Zimo chip and stayalive. It'll probably be staying in GWR livery as I have a distinct lack of stock from that era so will be something a bit out of the norm for me.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got around to ordering the MDF for a fascia board, which I'm hoping will be here early next week. I also took advantage and ordered some to replace the warped backscene on Frost's Mill too.

 

I've also been playing around in B&W :D

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Realised I posted the last update for Garnswllt in the Frost's Mill thread like a plantpot :D

 

Anyway, the MDF arrived a couple of weeks back and over the last few days I've got it cut to size and fixed on. I got a strip of RGB leds off Amazon with a remote that I spliced into the accessory power circuit. Looks amazing! And I can simulate times of day! The only downside is the wierd shadows it casts. Anyone any ideas on how to mitigate that? I was thinking of maybe diffusing the LEDs?

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Morning Alex, 

 

Just a couple of thoughts. 

 

With regards to the shadows, is the top of the layout open or enclosed? 

 

PXL_20201216_203605622-01.jpeg.e8b55600dfa5893ef91a16ff7e35f61b.jpeg.jpg.34ea6f7edc237c96eb213f44045cbd1c.jpg

 

If its open, these shadows are most likely from the lighting in the room itself. If open, try enclosing the top of the layout so the illumination is solely from the LED within the layout.  

 

The shadows  cast from outside, as it were. 

 

My layouts have a solid 'flat roof' which boxes it all in. Illumination comes from two LED strip lights inside this box. 

 

The fascia projects out to the front and the first strip  is mounted some two inches forward of the baseboard edge on the inside of the fascia.  The second sits in the middle of the 'roof' and has a baffle between it and the front strip.  

 

Rob. 

 

 

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6 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Morning Alex, 

 

Just a couple of thoughts. 

 

With regards to the shadows, is the top of the layout open or enclosed? 

 

PXL_20201216_203605622-01.jpeg.e8b55600dfa5893ef91a16ff7e35f61b.jpeg.jpg.34ea6f7edc237c96eb213f44045cbd1c.jpg

 

If its open, these shadows are most likely from the lighting in the room itself. If open, try enclosing the top of the layout so the illumination is solely from the LED within the layout.  

 

The shadows  cast from outside, as it were. 

 

My layouts have a solid 'flat roof' which boxes it all in. Illumination comes from two LED strip lights inside this box. 

 

The fascia projects out to the front and the first strip  is mounted some two inches forward of the baseboard edge on the inside of the fascia.  The second sits in the middle of the 'roof' and has a baffle between it and the front strip.  

 

Rob. 

 

 

 

Thanks Rob, it's more the shadows that the LED strips themselves cast on the backscene, you can see them on the pic of the 48DS above, the telegraph pole casts multiple shadows on the backscene behind it. The pic you copied in your post above is before I put the LEDs in so that is indeed from the room lighting, the 2 pics under that in the original post are with the room lights turned off and you can see the strong shadows cast by the LED strips. I suspect your suggestion of a second strip of LEDs down the middle of a 'roof' would be a good way to mitigate it so that may be the way to go!

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Alex. 

 

Ah! All noted. 

 

Iain Rice advocates a third strip at the top of /against the backscene to deal with any shadows thereon. 

 

Here's a view of the interior of Sheep Dip along with a view from the front. 

 

Rob. 

20201219_131241.jpg

 

 

 

20201219_131231.jpg

Edited by NHY 581
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20 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Hi Alex. 

 

Ah! All noted. 

 

Iain Rice advocates a third strip at the top of /against the backscene to deal with any shadows thereon. 

 

Here's a view of the interior of Sheep Dip along with a view from the front. 

 

Rob. 

20201219_131241.jpg

 

 

 

20201219_131231.jpg


Apologies for the slight thread hijack, but what exactly did you build this lighting gantry out off? I'm considering replicating something similar on my Quay...

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  • RMweb Gold
4 minutes ago, LBSC123 said:


Apologies for the slight thread hijack, but what exactly did you build this lighting gantry out off? I'm considering replicating something similar on my Quay...

 

Rather than hog Alex's thread LB, I'll send you a PM in a tad. 

 

Rob. 

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49 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Iain Rice advocates a third strip at the top of /against the backscene to deal with any shadows thereon. 

 

Agreed.

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Thanks chaps, I think'll that'll be the way to go. I may also try diffusing the LEDs too just to soften the light a tad.

 

Worst/best thing about having the layout behind me when I'm sat at my PC is I spend a lot of time swivelling round and taking pics lol.

 

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Needs a good dust lol.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 18/12/2020 at 22:35, Locksley said:

 

 

PXL_20201218_220454043-01.jpeg.7664281223340bd67c81613d7c61828f.jpeg


I realise there’s a serious discussion about lighting going on, but if you’ll forgive me, I’m afraid I did starting looking for the fish when I saw this particular shot, sorry.

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Finally got around to fitting the Modelu crew I bought a few months back in the Pug. Nicely hides all the stayalive gubbins in the cab.

 

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I also picked up a few Pocketbond Classix vehicles in the Hattons pre-xmas sales. Bit of weathering and a good matt coat, they've come up really well.

 

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Finally got around to a task which I've been meaning to do since building Garnswllt - adding a little extension piece to the left hand end to facilitate running an extra wagon clear of the first point. Can't really call it a fiddle yard, maybe a fiddle centimetre :D

 

I had an idea for a bracket with power pickups from the track that would allow me to swap out various lengths of extension piece which will just slot in. I drew up a few pieces on Tinkercad and printed them on my Wanhao i3 3D printer. I only have around 11cm space between the end of the layout and the bookcase that's next to it so it really is very short, but even that small piece allows a bit of extra wiggle room when operating. I modelled the extension to allow 2 lengths of Code75 rail to slot in which were then superglued in place. A wire then connects the rails to a pair of 3mm dia magnets, which make contact with a corresponding pair on the bracket. It actually seems to work pretty well.

 

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I mentioned this over in my Frost's Mill thread, but I picked up a Dapol B4 a couple of weeks back after TMC were doing the early BR version for 82 quid. Beautiful little loco, although just let down slightly by skew-wiff smokebox number and shed plate (to be fixed with a Railtec set), and some slightly wonky lamp irons. Runs smooth as butter though, and I finally got a Zimo chip and stayalive fitted today to allow running on Garnswllt. I was a tad apprehensive about fitting DCC myself after hearing horror stories over on the B4 thread in the Dapol section about how difficult it was to fit but I found it was an absolute breeze, in fact one of the easiest I've done. I simply followed Jenny Kirk's video about re-fastening the keeper plate back on once the body screws are removed, therefore stopping the wheels and motion falling out which I think was where a lot of the stories come from. One of the side tanks is completely empty so I was able to fit a Laisdcc stayalive and Zimo MX617F chip in there no problem. My new favourite loco :D

 

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Needed to put applause, like and craftmanship in the previous two posts!

 

That little extension piece you created - that is genius! I see how having a standard connector plate to slot it into that also acts as the support means you can have different lengths. What do you think is the maximum length before the 3D print starts to bow (with the engine at the far end)?

 

Steve S

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14 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

Needed to put applause, like and craftmanship in the previous two posts!

 

That little extension piece you created - that is genius! I see how having a standard connector plate to slot it into that also acts as the support means you can have different lengths. What do you think is the maximum length before the 3D print starts to bow (with the engine at the far end)?

 

Steve S

 

Thanks Steve! I printed this one in PLA+ which is pretty strong and rigid, I would think you'd get away with a good couple of feet before it started to move anywhere. Printed in PETG you'd be limited only by the strength of the bracket-to-layout fixing, although you could design in some supports further down that would take the strain off a tad. Of course this is all limited to the size of the printer, 180mm being the highest (longest) I could print so either modular connecting pieces would be needed, or, what I'll probably end up doing, would be to print a piece that attaches to the layout bracket and then will accept a length of plywood or MDF to lay the track onto.

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