Weathering Powders don't adhere!

[Enterprisingwestern]

2 hours ago, Barry O said:

do you mean the operating linkages..someone has already fitted a vac cyclinder....

 

Baz

 

That makes it much clearer, the vac cylinder should be bracketed off the solebar, hence the reason I missed it!

Also, now you come to mention the linkages!!

 

Mike.

[PMP]

I’ve never had any problems with the likes of MiG or AK47 powder/pigments adhering to models. Sometimes it helps to add a satin or mat varnish to get a key, depending on the undersurface. They are essentially paint without the liquid and are in a very concentrated form, so ‘less’ is often more with them. A very small amount is the way if you want subtle. He’s a couple of examples on RTR equipment which has not been under coated.

The loco is MiG and the freight cars  AK47/MiG mix

 

 

The benefits of pigment is that you can use it as a powder, or dilute it from paint to a wash.

[Steadfast]

I believe Mig, AK interactive and Abteilung 502 are all the same product, so a model shop told me.

Mixing different things with the powders can give very different effects.

As noted, applied to matt model they stick better than on gloss. Mix them with a gloss varnish on a pallette and they make convincing wet sludges. Use black, and add less varnish, you'll have a nice buffer grease. If you mix white spirit into the powder, it'll stick better but dry with the original powder texture. 

For dusty or sooty effects, applying dry does seem to give the best results. For exhausts, I get it 99% with paint, then add a dusting of black powder on top to add a sooty texture.

The best thing I can recommend is have a look at what military modellers are doing, their weathering is fantastic and they may use one powder but in three different ways. Some fantastic websites and magazines out there, in terms of painting and weathering I find Tamiya Model Magazine and Airfix Model World both offer some great tips and inspiration.

 

Jo

[Torper]

AK Interactive, Mig Productions and Abteilung 502 are all owned by the same company.  Whether their products are the same I don't know - the companies claim that they all have different formulations but even if they do there's not really much room for differences.  There's not an awful left of Mig Productions, which was the original company founded by Mig Jiminez.  It also owned, or set up, Abteilung502.  Anyway, Jiminez left after a row and joined up with Fernando Vallejo to found AK Interactive. (Just to confuse matters even further, Fernando Vallejo has nothing tio do with Vallejo paints).  Mig Jiminez then fell out with AK and left to form AMMO by Mig Jiminez which contunues to trade today,  At some point along the line Mig Productions, and of course Abteilung502, came under the AK umbrella.  Vallejo, which has never been connected to any of these others, is owned by Acrylicos Vallejo S.L and is much older than these others.  It has a history of producing artists paint before diversifying into paint for modellings.

 

DT

Edited June 16, 2020 by Torper

[MoonMonkey]

Hi, I just signed up to RMWeb to ask about weathering powders interacting with spray varnish, having come to railway modelling again recently.  I just found this current thread, hopefully this doesn't count as hijacking it!  I have a problem... I managed to get the powders to stick (a combination of Humbrol and Mig), and I then used coats of Humbrol matt spray varnish to seal the powder.  I've already tried this on wagons and had no problem.  But I then braved it and went for a Dean Goods loco (Oxford Rail but with new transfers and plates to go for a GWR wartime black look).  After the powder/varnish dried, I ended up with what looks like a water mark in some places.  I wondered if it was because I'd applied too much varnish in a layer.  So I let it all dry and applied another coat of powder to 'hide' the stain, re-varnished, and it looked ok.  Then the next morning, same again.  I'm not sure if the patch is expanding like some sort of creeping death for my weathering, or if it is now stable.  But before I just try the same 'hide and varnish' routine, has anyone else got any idea about this?  I've put a red ring around the areas in the pics attached.  Am I doing something wrong entirely?  It might be that the patches are passable as prototypical where water has washed the dirt,  although the layout is supposed to be mid-summer.  Any help would be gratefully received.  

[Mick Bonwick]

Your weathering has presented the excess oil inside the body an opportunity to use capillary action to spread itself all over the body. The only way to prevent this is to thoroughly clean all excess oil and grease from the mechanism and thoroughly clean the inside of the bodywork before you start weathering.

 

 

Bachmann Tidemark Warning.pdf

 

 

Edited June 17, 2020 by Mick Bonwick
Warning document attached.

[MoonMonkey]

56 minutes ago, Mick Bonwick said:

Your weathering has presented the excess oil inside the body an opportunity to use capillary action to spread itself all over the body. The only way to prevent this is to thoroughly clean all excess oil and grease from the mechanism and thoroughly clean the inside of the bodywork before you start weathering.

 

 

Bachmann Tidemark Warning.pdf 238.34 kB · 3 downloads

 

 

Thanks Mick, that's most helpful.  Now you've pointed that out, it does have the look of an oily residue, and my model does look just like the images in your PDF.  I shall look into isopropyl alcohol (IPA) although an initial web search suggest this is rare stuff now due to some coronavirus-related purpose.  I suspect it will need a removal of the loco body (which I gather can be a bit tricky if the screws are stuckfast from the factory assembly process).  Hmmm.  I shall see how it goes.  I might also apply a coat of varnish to the inside of the body to try and seal it against further oil egress.  I wonder in future if an initial few coats of the spray varnish will seal the body gaps before applying powders, or if the sprayed on varnish is actually porous too.  If I learn anything meaningful I'll post it back up here.  Thanks again! 

[MoonMonkey]

Hi Mick Bonwick, thanks for your help with the oily tidemark in the weathering powder, your info was most helpful.  I wasn't able to find IPA but dd some experimentation of my own... I learned quite a bit so I've done  a brain dump into this link  

     It might be useful if anyone else has problems with weathering powders and oily residue/tidemark.