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Slater's D299 MR Wagon - Wagon Finished


brossard
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Very cool, bookmarked.

 

I must focus on my layout and the 1962 era vehicles for that.  I do like these MR wagons.  Perhaps someone will give me another one to do, I wouldn't say no.

 

This one will likely end up in the club museum.

 

John

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I have primed the wagon:

 

P1010005-002.JPG.b7cd34ca475a9473d2e13ac286643b4c.JPG

 

Note the bottom door release catch.  I managed to suss this out from the drawing that Compound supplied above.  My take is that to release the door, the lever is pushed.  The locking pin is behind the lever.

 

I had to rebuild the brakes.  The original builder had fallen for the 0.20" plastic wire supplied in the kit.  I noticed that part of this had broken.  I couldn't drill the wire out so ended up replacing all the parts except for the brake lever.  I used 0.9mm brass wire for operating rod.  Safety loops are brass strip.

 

P1010006-001.JPG.9ec286a719b9b3960760cc9caef4b130.JPG

 

P1010007-002.JPG.a12afa08489b2fc7afe77da78ceab811.JPG

 

An outstanding question is MR freight grey.  From my previous life, I recall LMS freight grey is a kind of blue grey.  I googled the question but the pics shown are all models and all over the grey spectrum.

 

The wagon will be weathered so whatever colour is chosen will be somewhat obscured by grime.  Still, I think we should with a fairly accurate colour.

 

John

 

Edited by brossard
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Midland and LMS grey are the same thing - made by the same recipe at least up to the 1930s. There should be no blue tinge whatsoever - that came in later with the replacement of white lead by titanium dioxide as the major constituent. I have found Precision LMS freight stock grey to be an admirable colour (but don't go anywhere near their MR freight stock grey). It's well-established that the grey would darken in use owing to a chemical reaction between hydrogen sulfide - prevalent as an atmospheric pollutant in those days - and the white lead that was the principle component of the grey. So basically, any shade of grey that is a pure grayscale grey (no blue) but darker than the Precision grey! After that chemical ageing of the paint, dirt.

 

The wagon is looking good. I like that you've made the side knees thicker than the rest of the internal ironwork. I see you've done the axlebox lug nibbling. I'm very impressed by the bottom door release - any chance of a close-up from underneath? This became a standard RCH 1887 specification fitting - T.G. Clayton's influence again. The best drawings I know of are reproduction of the RCH drawings in in A.J. Watts, Private Owner Wagons from the Ince Waggon and Ironworks Co. (HMRS, 1998). There was a whole thread on the question of how the bottom doors were shut again...

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Thanks for the advice on the grey.  I will give that a think and see what I have.

 

Here are the pics you asked for:

 

P1010008.JPG.9ad3271626af2e95881b8ec213ac72c2.JPG

 

I kept it simple and made no attempt to replicate the true mechanism.  Chain is from an Ambis brake lever guide etch, but I have used twisted wire strands for this in the past.

 

P1010009.JPG.ece59896de95cae62aa97c716fb09054.JPG

 

HTH

 

John

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3 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

A midland rail mounted crane would be good

One of the 4 or 6-wheel 5 or 10 ton hand cranes? Those overhand at each end, so you need a pair of match wagons, one jib rest, the other with a recess to take the overhanging weight box. The standard design was based on the 9 ft wheelbase, 14'11" over headstocks underframe per D299, with bodywork 3 planks high, like a D305 but with fixed sides. 

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30 minutes ago, Furness Wagon said:

I've got a 3 plank the correct size in the range already that part would be  the easy bit. I will have a look at essey tonight to see what is possible.

Marc

 

The Midland Railway Study Centre has the relevant drawings 826 and 826A. There is a preserved example of a jib wagon.

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11 minutes ago, Paul Cram said:

I was thinking of a 4 wheel version similar to plates 414,415.416 in Midland Wagons Vol 2. There was one permanently at Hawes for loading stone but I don't have a picture or details.

 

Plate 399 shows such a crane with its attendant match trucks fore and aft - the best photo I know of showing the arrangement of the tail truck but even so, not so clear.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have finished the wagon:

 

P1010034.JPG.72cd7661b1414885e31256f7d8d36b2c.JPG

 

P1010035.JPG.e8eb07c022525f51462995ef85a70e46.JPG

 

My weathering technique:

 

1)  I started with an overall black enamel wash.  This was left for a day to dry.  Then I used household paint thinner (mineral spirit, white spirit) and cotton buds to remove about 95% of the residue.  Kudos to @Jinty for showing me the way.  I had used enamel thinner in the past and this is too aggressive, attacking acrylic paint.

 

2)  I used my airbrush to spray the underframe and solebar with earth and then black respectively.

 

3)  I then used umber and black powder on the solebars and axleboxes.  Brake blocks and springs got a highlight of rust.  Buffer heads got rubbed with a silver pencil to indicate buffer contact.

 

4)  Last thing was a coat of matte varnish.

 

John

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