MJT Gresley Brake Composite

[Mark]

I have started building an MJT Gresley Brake composite for the through coach from Penzance to Aberdeen. I have nearly completed the coach sides and have made up a pair of Masokits corridor Connections. I am very impressed with how it has gone together so far.

 

Mark Humphrys

 

 

[Mark]

Here are some more pictures of progress on this coach.

 

Mark

[trw1089]

Lovely work.  How did you find the MJT kit in putting together?  I've been looking at one myself just to get familiar with all the techniques I might need for building coaches.

 

Cheers

Tony

[Mark]

6 hours ago, trw1089 said:

Lovely work.  How did you find the MJT kit in putting together?  I've been looking at one myself just to get familiar with all the techniques I might need for building coaches.

 

Cheers

Tony

Thanks. 
 

The kit went together very well. I modified a few things but it is very well thought out.

 

This particular kit was covered in the Wild Swan book ‘The 4mm Coach part 2‘ by Steven Williams and is well worth using as a guide.

 

I used Bill Bedford bogies with the MJT castings outside. I might redo these with some from Rumney Models in time. 
 

The roof is designed to fit over the sides with a small lip on the outer edge but you need to make sure this is continuous along the castings for the domed ends when you match them. The tops of the sides have a folded tab with slots above the windows to allow glazing strips to be dropped in. I found these were quite vulnerable to getting bent. I wanted to improve the appearance of the can rail so I used some 1mmx1mm ‘T’ section from Eileens Emporium along the top of each side. I then had to reduce the height of the roof a small amount to compensate but I think the overall impression is convincing. This means I have to fit the windows from the inside but that isn’t a problem.

 

The corridor connections are from Masokits and I have opened them out so the internal door is visible.

 

I found the castings for the brake shafts were too short so I made my own using some brass tube.

 

The buffers supplied are the retracted type. Since I am using this on a Great Western train, the buffers need to be extended so that will be the next job as well as making them sprung.

 

Regards

 

Mark

[jwealleans]

I built a lot of these for Grantham (many with Bill Bedford sides) and I'd heartily recommend them.  I think there are only two things you need to be careful of; the join between the roof extrusion and the cast domed end, which Mark has already alluded to (and made a better job than most of mine) and the way the body itself is assembled.   Mike has designed these kits to be built as an integral body and underframe which is then closed up by the roof (which you can make removable or not).  I find it much easier for both finishing and then any subsequent maintenance to have the body and roof as one piece and the vehicle split at the underframe.  This isn't hard to do as long as you plan for it from the start.  Either way you get what you need to make a fine model.

[Bucoops]

Markits do the correct buffers in a sprung version - although the housings don't have the body fixings which cast housings tend to have.

[trw1089]

1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

I built a lot of these for Grantham (many with Bill Bedford sides) and I'd heartily recommend them.  I think there are only two things you need to be careful of; the join between the roof extrusion and the cast domed end, which Mark has already alluded to (and made a better job than most of mine) and the way the body itself is assembled.   Mike has designed these kits to be built as an integral body and underframe which is then closed up by the roof (which you can make removable or not).  I find it much easier for both finishing and then any subsequent maintenance to have the body and roof as one piece and the vehicle split at the underframe.  This isn't hard to do as long as you plan for it from the start.  Either way you get what you need to make a fine model.

Thanks Mark and Jonathan - they are very useful tips.

[Mark]

1 hour ago, Bucoops said:

Markits do the correct buffers in a sprung version - although the housings don't have the body fixings which cast housings tend to have.

Thanks. I have just ordered a set.

 

Mark

[Mark]

I have now fitted a set of Markits buffers. I have modified them by adding some bolts and I also reduced the width slightly. Here are some pictures of them on the coach. The steam pipe and vacuum pipe are home made and are balanced in position for the pictures.

 

Mark

 

 

[Bucoops]

Very nicely done!

[Mark]

I think I have done as much as I can on this now. I have done quite a few jobs detailing the buffer beam and the roof is now screwed in place. Next step will be painting!

 

Mark

[trw1089]

Lovely job!

[Mark]

I have had a go at applying teak to the model using the methods described by Mike Trice. I used precision for the base coat and then fine detail liquin and Vandyke Brown for the top coat. Far from perfect but I am quite pleased with the results.

 

Mark

[micklner]

I would add some variation of colour and colour depth on the panels . There was a lot of different shades to the wood.

 

Nice build. I add handles after painting is completed, much easier as no cleaning up needed.

 

 

 

One of mine , MJT sides on a modified Hornby base.

 

Edited September 8, 2020 by micklner

[MikeTrice]

My personal view is the base colour is wrong and needs more orange in it.

 

Here is one of my coaches complete with base colours ready for graining. Some additional "variation" has been added:

 

And after the graining coat has been applied and lining added:

 

The graining above has been well brushed out. You might be better off using slightly less Liquin and work the brush more.

 

Beautiful build BTW.

 

Edited September 8, 2020 by MikeTrice

[Mark]

5 hours ago, MikeTrice said:

My personal view is the base colour is wrong and needs more orange in it.

 

Here is one of my coaches complete with base colours ready for graining. Some additional "variation" has been added:

 

And after the graining coat has been applied and lining added:

 

The graining above has been well brushed out. You might be better off using slightly less Liquin and work the brush more.

 

Beautiful build BTW.

 

Thanks for the comments.
 

I am not sure I have the appetite to strip and redo it and being red/green colourblind I would probably still not get it quite right. I could lay some thin orange washes over the top which might help give some better variation between panels. But it might not be too successful putting light over darker base.

 

I bought a maroon Hornby version to practice with so I can use that as a trial to see if it works.

 

Regards

 

Mark