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Minories are made of this


Harlequin
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Is there a T-shirt for those who've been there and done that?

 

I seem to remember there was a film about those who tried to deviate from the original concept?.....

 

 

 

 

..... Minories Report.

 

:D

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On 11/06/2020 at 12:56, Harlequin said:

 

I'm worried about using dowels at all because the ones I have used on my current test layout are very tight and really only want to move in one axis so they might be sticky or totally impossible to engage when rotated into position by a hinge.

 

My current thinking is to just align the boards by hand and use flight-box clasps to then pull them tightly together. Friction would then prevent them from moving.

 

Hi Phil

For my small folding French BLT, which is a horizontal fold, I used a single  ordinary steel hinge for the fold  (if I did it again I'd use a brass hinge but only for appearance)  and KD furniture fittings on the opposite side for aligment. These are available from B&Q etc for about tuppence a ton and seem to work remarkably well. The male part are rounded at the ends so unlike patern makers dowels are happy to be hinged in. They're made of some kind of nylon so are slightly flexible. They're designed to assemble corners so I had to drill extra holes in one half to use them to line up the boards. I'm not sure if I'd use them alone if there wasn't a hingle to carry the main loads though I do also use them to atach the fiddle yard.

These photos weren't taken with that in mind but they should show how they're used.

 

This is the layout folded to form threee sides of an open box and you shoud be ale to to see the KD joiner on either side of the frame and also at the top to align the backscene

765648157_LeGoudronfolded16-010.jpg.b393d4a89f0d5dc3d9254960b31cc054.jpg

 

This shows the hinge but the actual join is not very apparent

 

Le_Goudron__hinge_and_join_155.jpg.df579e6421b26f72964b746c02cc0cbc.jpg

Nor here though the backscene join is more apparent.

1202515727_LeGoudrontopshotjoin.jpg.780fc4e0cfd172f6d1f2be3927f29779.jpg

 

This shows the KD block that aligns the two halves and I had to drill two holes in the left hand part to screw it to the frame. I think the hinge does most of  the alignment work The backboard is hardboard but is not intended to be structural. (The plugs and sockets are the electrical connections between the two halves.)

625328897_LeGoudron208interboardpluggery.jpg.f50ffeacb9f31fe4f203d015a33579f1.jpg

 

I've not tried this with a foldover baaseboard but if the hinge towers are sturdy it should still work.

I built this layout about 20 years ago as a bare boards shunting layout and, much to my surprise, have never had a problem with track alignment between the two halves

 

Edited by Pacific231G
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On 09/06/2020 at 09:22, marc smith said:

BTW - I like the title, it's what made me look at the thread, but then again like @SRman I'm a fan of Dad jokes too! I'll get my Snorkel Jacket... lol

That makes at least two of us ......

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On 08/06/2020 at 23:39, Harlequin said:

Like a lot of us, I have long been intrigued by C J Freezer's famous design for a small double-track terminus station, "Minories".

 

I have noticed that when it is referenced in other designs it is usually modified, lengthened, bent and often changed so much that the resulting track plan really has nothing to do with Freezer's original concept.


So when I was looking for a small, achievable project - something portable that I could make with the materials I had to hand - it seemed like a good idea to make a Minories layout that adheres very closely to one of the original plans.

 

I'm going to use Plan SP35 from 60 Plans for Small Locations because it's one of the smallest, most basic versions and I've already honed the plan into a good state:

1039840125_MinoriesSP3520b.png.9ba5ad2e2ffde25ae7d62c45c5ddddbc.png

(I know about the reverse curves in the top platforms and the slightly awkward joggle into the bottom Platform - they are authentic features.)

 

I created a 3D model of the box in Sketchup and I'm using it in the workshop to guide me:

593359085_Minories10.png.914e9c3434434cc4b635784f300ca0f3.png

The basic structure is plywood H girders with bracing underneath and timber frames at the ends to provide more solidity where the boxes need to be joined, hinged and/or handled.


After a few days cutting here are all the parts ready for assembly:

485787323_SAM_4356resaved.JPG.6533a50151affbcf8ac4285e8babe03e.JPG

 

I have got some ideas about region and era using modern RTR locos and rolling stock that should work well. More of that later.

 

* I'm sorry for the cheesy title! When I can think of something better I will change it, I promise!

 

 

 

Good morning Phil

 

Just like you and countless others here on RMweb, l ve always found the basic Minories an attractive looking layout. What makes a good layout better is presentation. I love the effort you are putting into the base boards, very much some thing l d want to do myself. Would it be possible to see some photos of the finished boards to see how it all goes together please?

 

Looking forward to seeing this layout develop

 

 

Bob C

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50 minutes ago, Blobrick said:

 

 

Good morning Phil

 

Just like you and countless others here on RMweb, l ve always found the basic Minories an attractive looking layout. What makes a good layout better is presentation. I love the effort you are putting into the base boards, very much some thing l d want to do myself. Would it be possible to see some photos of the finished boards to see how it all goes together please?

 

Looking forward to seeing this layout develop

 

 

Bob C

Hi Bob,

 

Yes I will post developments as they proceed but I haven't been able to spend much time on it this week, I'm afraid.

 

I drilled one hole in the wrong place last weekend and I've been pondering if I can work around it or if I need to remake the piece from scratch. I think I have a plan now.

 

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7 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Hi Bob,

 

Yes I will post developments as they proceed but I haven't been able to spend much time on it this week, I'm afraid.

 

I drilled one hole in the wrong place last weekend and I've been pondering if I can work around it or if I need to remake the piece from scratch. I think I have a plan now.

 

Hi Phil

 

I did not realise, you are Harlequin! I ve been following your plan library for some time now. I think we both like things that are neat and tidy lol,

 

I look forward with great exceptions to your development on this project!   No pressure there then lol

 

Thanks again

 

Bob C

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Hi Phil

 

After all the discussion on Minories and variations thereupon on the other thread, seeing a pure version being constructed will be a practical demonstration of the genius of the plan.  I think discussions of variations upon the idea should be left elsewhere so that your thread/build has clarity of intent and purpose; it might end up as the go-to reference for anyone wishing to build Minories as a project!

 

Signing up to follow this with interest.  Maybe a board manufacturer might come up with a lasercut "kit" to replicate your design - that would, as has been already suggested - provide the basis for a "célébration anniversaire Minories"!

 

Steve S

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57 minutes ago, Nearholmer said:


Very good carpentry, if I may say so, you clearly have great talent for it.

Thank you!

 

Perhaps I'll show you some of the mistakes, niggles, failures and disasters some time! :wink_mini:

 

I have to say that a lot of it is down to having good tools and using them carefully. Being able to cut clean, square edges is crucial. 

 

I hope I'm doing my Grandad proud.

 

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40 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Thank you!

 

I hope I'm doing my Grandad proud.

 


I would certainly think you are. Those pistol grip sash cramps are great aren’t they - although I always find I want some just a bit longer than the different lengths I have. Invaluable for doweling work though. Sympathise with the split softwood, too much is just not decent/seasoned enough these days.

 

I’m following this layout with keen interest so thanks for the thread.

 

Izzy

 

 

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10 hours ago, Harlequin said:

Carpentry update! (Oh the excitement...)

 

Here's one the end frames ready to have the top bar glued on. I wanted to make the joints a bit stronger using dowels but drilling accurately positioned holes in both parts was taxing. I split two top bars trying to fit them and had to remake them.

 

Have you tried “Dowel drill centre pins”? Cheap and easy to use for dowels in any position. My Dad had a dowelling clamp. That also helped keep the drill bit vertical as well as aligning the holes. Various designs are available.

Looks like you’ve done a splendid job so far.

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3 hours ago, Nearholmer said:


Very good carpentry, if I may say so, you clearly have great talent for it.

 

Just seconding (or third-ing) this comment. Very neat, tidy carpentry work there sir :) 
I'm far too untidy a carpenter to show off any of my baseboard type work! lol

I'm sure the care and attention at this stage, will result in better, trouble-free joints & running in future
"Minories" may be an age-old plan - but I'm enjoying this build thread already.... and the PVA isn't even dry on the baseboards ;)

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I had time to glue the sides and the ends together today:

865611765_SAM_4399resaved.JPG.89bd09fce7a403d201fae406a51befbd.JPG

 

The end frames were slightly twisted so I had to force them into line and one corner isn't quite right but I think it will be OK.

 

I should get the baseboard in tonight and maybe the other half will come together a bit quicker this weekend, because I won't have to stop and think about what I'm doing so often.

 

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I didn't get as far as I'd hoped this weekend. That was partly because there were things to do in the garden but also because I hit a problem in fixing the baseboard into the box.

 

To cut a long story short I had to screw and glue it into place while pulling the sides together with big cramps. Just after I'd done that I found that the plywood had an undulation in it due to a joint in the centre ply layer. I did my best to flatten this out but it could cause problems later during track laying.

 

Anyway, I got it all together so I have one half done and the other is well under way now.

 

Here's the baseboard looking at one of the hinge posts:

74661597_SAM_4410resaved.JPG.d1af50367bc7437f403dc4ba32b0e2a1.JPG

 

The post is glued to the crossbar, where the hinge will be fixed, and to the front panel. The front panel braces the post by the connecting it diagonally to the length of the baseboard.

 

So it feels completely rigid when I pick it up by the weakest corner like this:

1039930141_SAM_4411resaved.JPG.239c1c05af73d51bb05b000962199706.JPG

 

The point is to prevent flexing when the two halves are opened and closed so that alignment is reliable and scenery doesn't come unstuck.

 

Edited by Harlequin
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Got a bit more done this morning before work:

 

I decided to make the end frame where the track exits to the fiddle yard exactly the same as the others so that it would be strong and square. Then glue it to the end panel and before cutting away the unwanted column:

1751738998_SAM_4413resaved.JPG.5d9813673991af53941013bed49ee5ee.JPG

1612271375_SAM_4415resaved.JPG.51e133ffdec2c8e079e5f4855cde0c61.JPG

 

Clearance is just about OK, I think...

929598096_SAM_4417resaved.JPG.84dde493ef588b957378c02c8e576962.JPG

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11 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

....

Clearance is just about OK, I think...

929598096_SAM_4417resaved.JPG.84dde493ef588b957378c02c8e576962.JPG

... provided you don't use underlay!

Really impressed with this, it will be interesting to see this 'pure' version in comparison to other derivatives.

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6 minutes ago, Ramblin Rich said:

... provided you don't use underlay!

 

Gotcha! There's 3mm cork clamped under the ply offcut - it was just easier to stack things up that way. :wink_mini:

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